#1
right i know what head i want its the ampeg pro series 2 head, and i am also get a 4x10 cab, but i also want an 18 inch cab aswell for low punchyness aswell as highs, does anyone know a good company that do one?
#3
Quote by 14shadesofblue
Gallien Krueger.

I looked on their site and cannot find a 1x18 cabinet. There are lots of 1x15's though.
#5
Correction: Eden make an AMAZING 118 cab!
Ibanez SR505
Ashdown ABM 300 EVO II
Epifani UL410
#7
I dont think there are any 18's currently made with tweeters, and therefore you won't really find one with a frequency response over 2k, 3k if you're lucky. Hell, the Hartke 18 tops out at 300Hz.

Eden, Carvin, Hartke, and SWR make 18s. The Carvin and Hartke makes them in 4 ohms and Eden and SWR make them in 8 ohms.
Quote by Cody_Grey102
I was looking at a used Warwick Vampyre LTD 5'er for about $200. I went home to grab my wallet and came back and some jerk with an epic beard got it already..
#8
Quote by thefitz
I dont think there are any 18's currently made with tweeters, and therefore you won't really find one with a frequency response over 2k, 3k if you're lucky. Hell, the Hartke 18 tops out at 300Hz.

Eden, Carvin, Hartke, and SWR make 18s. The Carvin and Hartke makes them in 4 ohms and Eden and SWR make them in 8 ohms.

This is something important to consider, because I'd reccomend getting two 8-ohm cabs. Fitz, maybe you can answer my question, but are tube amps safe to run at 2 ohms? I know they have an impedance selector switch on the back of the head (at least my SVT Classic does, it can go from 4 to 2 ohms). Tube amps, if I'm not mistaken, put out their designated wattage at a choice of impedances, right? Back to my original point, TS, depending on Fitz's answer, you may not have to rule out the two 4-ohm cab option. Either way, don't mix a 4 ohm cab with an 8 ohm cab. If possible, get two 8 ohm cabs.
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#10
Quote by jazz_rock_feel
As far as I know there's nothing dangerous in running at 2.666 ohms (4 ohm and 8 ohm) as long as the amps minimum wattage is 2 ohms.

Which selection would you keep the head on then, 2 or 4 ohms? I'd imagine 2, since it's putting out the same wattage at more resistance, putting out less power and not risking overpowering anything.
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#11
Tube amps have to match the impedence with the impedence of the speakers - it's not like solid state where you just plug in a certain speaker with a certain impedence and it sorts itself out. You have to match the amp's output impedence to that of the cab, and there should be a switch at the back of every tube amp. If you can switch to 2 ohms, you're golden. However, I've heard a story about a dude who got to use another dude's amp at a gig, which was a tube SVT head with 2 810s - sounds like 2 ohms to me.

About the 2.66ohms, yes, it's true - you should be able to run it assuming the head goes under 4 ohms (i.e. to 2 ohms). That said, when running at 2.66 ohms, both speakers will be getting different amounts of power in the signal. It'll result in a very unbalanced tone. Ya dig?

EDIT: You can run an Ampeg SVT CL head in 2 ohms -
RMS Power Output (2 Ohms): 300-Watts
RMS Power Output (4 Ohms): 300-Watts
according to their site.

And, if we're talking about solid state, there's this notion that solid state heads that can run in 2 ohms shouldn't be run in 2 ohms because they'll blow up. Well, I hate to break it to you, but when you're running in mono-bridge, you're essentially running 2 power amps in series, and those 2 power amps are individually running at 2 ohms (that's why mono-bridge power ratings are the sum of each power amp at half the impedence, i.e. SVT4PRO runs mono bridge 1200W @ 4 ohms, which is the sum of both power amps running 600W at 2 ohms). If the amp can mono-bridge, running at 2 ohms should not be a problem.
Quote by Cody_Grey102
I was looking at a used Warwick Vampyre LTD 5'er for about $200. I went home to grab my wallet and came back and some jerk with an epic beard got it already..
Last edited by thefitz at Feb 12, 2008,
#12
Quote by thefitz
Tube amps have to match the impedence with the impedence of the speakers - it's not like solid state where you just plug in a certain speaker with a certain impedence and it sorts itself out. You have to match the amp's output impedence to that of the cab, and there should be a switch at the back of every tube amp. If you can switch to 2 ohms, you're golden. However, I've heard a story about a dude who got to use another dude's amp at a gig, which was a tube SVT head with 2 810s - sounds like 8 ohms to me.

About the 2.66ohms, yes, it's true - you should be able to run it assuming the head goes under 4 ohms (i.e. to 2 ohms). That said, when running at 2.66 ohms, both speakers will be getting different amounts of power in the signal. It'll result in a very unbalanced tone. Ya dig?

Ok, I understand. I know they have selector switches for the impedence and stuff. By the way, the 8x10 cabs are 4 ohms. In theory, you could run two of them with one SVT head because they can go down to two ohms with the switch. I'm not sure that would be safe, the head is only 300 watts in the first place (even if it's tube). Each cab would be getting 150 watts of power, if I'm right, and the cabs have an 800 watt RMS power handling. That's definitely underpowering it.
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#13
Sorry, I changed the number to 2 ohms, which is what I meant.

Underpowering a cab is never, even an issue - IFF (with 2 f's, look it up!) the head is still powerful enough that you don't need to crank it. Underpowering a cab will only damage the cab if the head is cranked, resulting in a lot of treble distortion, heating the voice coils, and burning the cones. If you had a 1200W head plugged into a 6 million watt cab, it wouldn't matter, because you'd never crank the 1200W anyway.
Quote by Cody_Grey102
I was looking at a used Warwick Vampyre LTD 5'er for about $200. I went home to grab my wallet and came back and some jerk with an epic beard got it already..
#14
Quote by thefitz
Sorry, I changed the number to 2 ohms, which is what I meant.

Underpowering a cab is never, even an issue - IFF (with 2 f's, look it up!) the head is still powerful enough that you don't need to crank it. Underpowering a cab will only damage the cab if the head is cranked, resulting in a lot of treble distortion, heating the voice coils, and burning the cones. If you had a 1200W head plugged into a 6 million watt cab, it wouldn't matter, because you'd never crank the 1200W anyway.

That makes sense. So I'm assuming it would be safe to look around for an older Ampeg SVT215E then to run with my 8x10? I'd like to beef up my low end a little (or a lot, in this case). I think I will single-handedly have the most overkill rig for what I do, ever. I haven't even used it in a show yet, because my band is on halt due to the lack of a drummer and now a rhythm guitarist.
Quote by PatMcRotch
The term grammer nazi is from the camps in the lolocaust made by Adrofl Hitlol...


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Be sure to rape the blue note (augmented 4th). Rape it hard and exploit it like the skank it is.


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#15
You have a cube van to move all these things?

However, I've never taken my rig to a gig yet either.
Quote by Cody_Grey102
I was looking at a used Warwick Vampyre LTD 5'er for about $200. I went home to grab my wallet and came back and some jerk with an epic beard got it already..
#16
I have a truck, so it's all good. If secured properly (cabs on their side, lengthwise, and secured with ratchet straps or something), they should fit in the bed. Plus, I have a cap . The head would be in the front seat with me, undoubtedly buckled up
Quote by PatMcRotch
The term grammer nazi is from the camps in the lolocaust made by Adrofl Hitlol...


Quote by Wasted Bassist
Be sure to rape the blue note (augmented 4th). Rape it hard and exploit it like the skank it is.


Founder of the All-Tube Bass Amp Owners Club. PM me to join.
#17
I've had nothing but luck and awesome sound from GK and Eden when it comes to their cabs. The new GK line with the aluminum cones that just came out awhile ago I was sketchy about, but they sound awesome. And they're not all that expensive either.