#1
Hi, first off a little introduction, my names Marc and i've been playing about 2 years now, I have 3 guitars altogether one of which is an Epi Lp100 thats about 8 years old. I got it cheap from a friend and whilst it wasn't in bad condition there were a few nicks in the paint, the pickups were dead and the wiring looked liked it needed replacing. So after having it sitting under my bed for the past year I decided i'd get to work on it and replace the pickups and wiring and while im at it i'd attempt to respray it aswell. I'd also like to add that this is my first ever attempt at anything like this so it may be a long and arduous journey

This is a quick sketch to show the paint scheme i'm hoping to achieve (imagine it with all chrome hardware aswell).



This is how it looked to begin with.



Now after I sanded it down.



I'm registered over at the PG and Uk Guitar Builders Forum and wezv has been helping me alot (thanks wezv smile.gif) I thought i'd register here aswell though and get as much help as possible so please comment as much as you can.

My first problem is that i've gone through some patches of sealer when sanding so i'm going to put a new coat of sealer over it again, what type should I use? Just a basic wood sealer or any brand specific recommendations? (Remember i'm UK based)

All help is massivly appreciated and at the end of this i'm hoping to put together a beginners guide to refurbing a guitar so hopefully you helping me will in turn help others
Kit:

Tanglewood TW28STR
PRS Soapbar SE II
Epiphone LP100

Roland Cube 30x (New!)
#2
i love lp projects good luck with it! I think i'd feel ill sanding off a bloom finish!
#3
Since you have the same project over at PG, you won't be short as far as advices and tips.

You have a bunch of options as far as sealers are concerned. I'm assuming you'll be using spraycans? If so, you can use Acrylics or even Shellac. There are Acrylics which are a combination of Sanding Sealer/Primer that you can use for the base Acrylic Colorcoat and Clearcoat.

You can use Shellac as filler and sealer and put Acrylic or Nitro Coclorcoat on top.

One tip is to make sure you don't get build-up in the neck pocket when spraying. Layers of paint, etc. can act like a shim, throwing the string height off, so mask the pocket.

After you've sprayed the racing stripes, make sure to wetsand the demarcation lines with high grit that you've soaked overnight. If you don't, the demarcation between the colors will be very noticeable after you've clearcoated, it gets amplified as layers build up.

BTW, spray the holes where the wood is exposed with Clearcoat. This will prevent the wood from absorbing water when you're wetsanding.

When using rattle can spraypaint, shake twice as long as recommended. Keep the cans parked in warm water. These will prevent your cans from spitting.

Spray a few inches further than recommended to prevent build ups that can cause drips, runs, etc.

Start spraying a few inches away from the body's edge and end away from the body. Don't start shooting on the body itself and/or end the spraying motion on the body.

Good Luck!

#4
Ippon you are a legend thank you for your reply, thats exactly the sort of thing I need, just a couple of questions though.

When you say "demarcation lines" you mean the edges between the stipes and the white undercoat right?

And also when you say "spray the holes where the wood is exposed with Clearcoat" which holes do you mean and at what stage should I do this?

Thanks again
Kit:

Tanglewood TW28STR
PRS Soapbar SE II
Epiphone LP100

Roland Cube 30x (New!)
#5
TTT come on Ippon where did you go? Anyone else want to answer either?
Kit:

Tanglewood TW28STR
PRS Soapbar SE II
Epiphone LP100

Roland Cube 30x (New!)
#6
Ok quick update time, the guitar is now completely sanded so is ready to be primed (i've decided not to worry about sealer as I can't find it in any diy shops locally so i'll just see how the primer takes to it).I have encountered a few things though now its done.

Firstly I have scuffed the side dot marking (see below) but I figure a quick go over with some high grit sand paper will take this out right?



Secondly when I removed the old bridge I found this...



If you look at the left hand side there is no indentation for the bridge to go in, and who said low end guitars were poorly crafted lol!

Anyway i'll be putting the first layer of primer on tomorrow so fingers crossed I don't suck at using a rattle can ;D
Kit:

Tanglewood TW28STR
PRS Soapbar SE II
Epiphone LP100

Roland Cube 30x (New!)
#8
Yeah someone else picked up on that aswell lol, I'm not retarded honest I was just not paying attention when typing
Kit:

Tanglewood TW28STR
PRS Soapbar SE II
Epiphone LP100

Roland Cube 30x (New!)
#9
Quote by King85
Ippon you are a legend thank you for your reply, thats exactly the sort of thing I need, just a couple of questions though.

When you say "demarcation lines" you mean the edges between the stipes and the white undercoat right?

And also when you say "spray the holes where the wood is exposed with Clearcoat" which holes do you mean and at what stage should I do this?

Thanks again

Yep!

Since you've primed already, it should be fine as long as you don't get the body so wet it migrates into the TOM bridge holes (for example).

#10
Ok today I finally got around to putting the first layer of primer down (a rattle can is considerably harder to use than I thought lol) anyway heres a look at my handy work.



The unsealed patched are still noticable but hopefully a couple of primer coats will act as a sealer and it will be ok when I come to put the last few primer coats/colour base on.

Also last night I won a soldering iron for 99p and got some 1200,1500,2000,2500 (all x 5) sandpaper for £11 all off ebay
Kit:

Tanglewood TW28STR
PRS Soapbar SE II
Epiphone LP100

Roland Cube 30x (New!)
#11
nice work. And good job working the ebay!!
Gear

93 Jackson Dinky Professional Reverse
98 Jackson Kelly KE3

Peavey Bandit 112
Custom 2x10 cab w/Bugeras
#13
Ok after the second coat I can see that the sections where I sanded through the sealer have a 'fluffy' texture and arent as smooth as the surrounding area, my plan is to apply 2 more layers of primer then use some 2000 wet and dry to sand these down smooth, would that work or does anyone have a better suggestion?
Kit:

Tanglewood TW28STR
PRS Soapbar SE II
Epiphone LP100

Roland Cube 30x (New!)
#14
The body looks alot better now after the 400 sanding and some more primer, it still needs a good few coats of primer before I sand it down for its colour layers though (the colour scheme has changed aswell to a dark blue with two white stripes as I couldn't find a green and red I liked) anyway the body has a few shallow scratches on it like this.



Do you think they will eventually even out with extra primer or shall I put abit of filler on now and then smooth it out?

My dremel style tool came aswell today and I have many bits to play with now, however I don't have a clue what some of them are and what they should/shouldn't be used for so if anyone wants to give me a few clues that would be great

Kit:

Tanglewood TW28STR
PRS Soapbar SE II
Epiphone LP100

Roland Cube 30x (New!)