#1
I'm making a custom 7-string guitar at school for a project, and there are two problems that I can't sort out, and need help with:

1) Where can I buy a 7 string top nut? I would make it myself but I'm sure I would get the spacing between the strings wrong so I'd rather buy one. I've checked ebay and all guitar replacement parts sellers, and none of them have one (I only checked UK websites because any other site would charge more than the price of the nut for the P&P). Dose anyone know a UK site that would sell them?

2) My teacher says I should stain the would instead of painting it because painting it would take too long. I do know that to paint a guitar you need 2 apply a primer, and then several layers of paint to get an even finish before varnishing it, but how many layers does it need before its smooth?

Any help for either of these points would be greatly appreciated
#2
Well, you could buy an Orignal Floyd Rose 7 string trem and you'd have both your bridge and nut options sorted out, but it might be a bit expensive.
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#3
Quote by Dog454
Well, you could buy an Orignal Floyd Rose 7 string trem and you'd have both your bridge and nut options sorted out, but it might be a bit expensive.


I'm using a fixed bridge and saddle, putting in a tremolo bridge would just complicate things massively. It doesn't really matter if its a locked nut or not, because the strings are staying put
#4
yeah tht 7 string floyd would be £130+
but you could try ebay or go to your local music shop and ask about a 7-string tuneomatic or sumthing of that sort
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#5
I'm not sure on your first question sorry, but....

On both paint and stain, you have to first prep the body for the color. Sand smooth and depending on the wood specie, apply a grain filler type product which lets the stain soak in evenly. Grain fillers are needed for porous woods....alder for example.

Painting the guitar isn't too bad. Yes, you do need to primer it before paint, but the difficult thing of painting is getting a nice shiney finish. Lots of wetsanding and buffing. A satin finish would be much easier to achieve. It takes a lot of time and patience for paint. If you go this route, def read up on it.

I just stained a guitar body the other day and it took me 15 min. I used a staining pad instead of a brush and Minwax stain. Wipe it on, wait 5-15 minutes (the longer the darker) and wipe it down with a clean rag. Let it dry and go over with #0000 steel wool. Repeat for even darker shade. Afterwards, use some wipe on poly for a clear to protect it. Hope this long post helps. Good luck!
#6
Quote by McFadden
On both paint and stain, you have to first prep the body for the color. Sand smooth and depending on the wood specie, apply a grain filler type product which lets the stain soak in evenly. Grain fillers are needed for porous woods....alder for example.


the body is made out of ash, so does that need grain filler?

Quote by McFadden
Painting the guitar isn't too bad. Yes, you do need to primer it before paint, but the difficult thing of painting is getting a nice shiney finish. Lots of wetsanding and buffing. A satin finish would be much easier to achieve. It takes a lot of time and patience for paint.


What's the difference between a shiny and satin finish?
#7
Erm a satin finish is what Schecter had on the old Damien models, whereas a gloss finish is more common like on the schecter blackjacks for example
#8
Flat is dull with little shine. Satin is not flat, but not shiny (other wise known as semi-gloss), and then there is gloss which is the typical shine on a guitar. Whether painting or staining, a clear coat is needed after the color. You can get spray paints that are flat or gloss, but it's usually the clear coat that gives it the shine or dullness, not the paint.

If your staining, the wipe on clear is easy to apply and won't need any work to get it to a nice shine if you go with a gloss finish.....a flat clear is also available. However if painting, it's much more work to get a nice shiney finish which is why I recommended a flat or satin finish.

Yes, ash will need grain filler and i'd stick with the Minwax brand. They have the filler, stain, and clear. It's all really easy to use. The grain filler goes on like the stain pretty much. Just wipe it on, let it dry. A little sanding is needed after it dries to get the body smooth again so it's ready for the stain. Ash has a nice grain, why cover it with paint . There are many colors available, including an almost black stain (ebony, like the fretboards). Here's a quick pic of a flat black finished guitar.....you could almost achieve that look with the ebony stain.

Last edited by McFadden at Feb 26, 2008,
#9
Quote by Jmz123
I'm using a fixed bridge and saddle, putting in a tremolo bridge would just complicate things massively. It doesn't really matter if its a locked nut or not, because the strings are staying put


You can't use a locking nut without some sort of locking bridge with fine tuners.

Just look for some sort of nut that is about 1 7/8 long or so. If i'm not mistaken, carvin has graphite 7 string nuts for about $7.
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#10
hmmmmmm ok i've decided to stain it, but I can't decide between a dark blue or a wine red kinda thing. I already have a black Jackson so I thought I'd do something other than black
#12
Quote by Jmz123
hmmmmmm ok i've decided to stain it, but I can't decide between a dark blue or a wine red kinda thing. I already have a black Jackson so I thought I'd do something other than black


Emerald green ftw.
Major of 7 String Legion 7 > 6

Carvin DC747
Ibanez RG2228
Schecter Avenger Custom Shop
and my baby....
Gibson Explorer Studio