#1
well...the output jack on my Schecter CV-4 is shot....and gotta get a new one, but i'm having a hard time locating one
it's much more elaborate than the normal jack though, it's got three terminals (one for ground) and 2 prongs that press against the plug

any idea how i can get one of these (in the us?)
#4
Try Stewart Macdonald as well. And don't assume because it isn't in the online catalog they don't have it. Its worth the call if you can't immediately find it.
#7
i bought a standard stereo 1/4 jack at my local music store today, hopefully it works ok...(i don't have my bass handy to install it at the moment, wish me luck!)

i've been dealing w/ problems (most likely jack related) on this bass for about a year now...so if this fixes it i'll be truly happy!
#9
yes! you need a thin wired, flux-core, electronics solder. all that fat old plumbers solder will just make a mess. you want a low melting temp. if you don't have it, wait until you do. it's about $2 at Wal-mart.
#11
Quote by xCROSSFIREx
well my dad used to be an electrician so we probably have some lying around...or i could just jack some from the A/V room at school (not that i ever would take anything from there w/o asking...haha)

small electronics are very delicate. i bet the A/V teacher will give you a piece, if you asked. for that matter, ask your Dad!
#13
If your bass has active electronics that would explain the different jack. It only uses the one channel but if the other one is connected then that switches on the preamp.
#16
I don't know exactly how it's wired but it's simple enough to install an active/passive switch or just remove the actives...not sure why you'd want to leave the preamp in there but disable it but it's definitely possible.
#18
If you install a mono plug it probably won't work, since most still need to have the preamp connected before any sound will come out, regardless of passive switching and the like!
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#19
Quote by IndieMetalhead
If you install a mono plug it probably won't work, since most still need to have the preamp connected before any sound will come out, regardless of passive switching and the like!


I will work, but the battery will drain so long as it is connected, not just when a lead is plugged in.

And active passive switches are relatively easy to install (replacing the volume potentiometer with a push/pull potentiometer would negate even the need to drill a new hole). The seymour duncans site has an easy to follow schematic for one.

This way, you can have the best of both worlds (or, as I like mine for, emergency playing should the battery die mid performance). Just replace the jack with a stereo one (replace every connection exactly how you take it off) and then think about installing an active passive switch.
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+1
#21
Quote by 83lespaulstudio
we don't know why they used those parts, but here is another source to buy one.
http://www.tubesandmore.com/

i'm too lazy to re-type it.