#1
I recently bought a used JH fuzz face pedal. Well it looks like someone got inside and changed some stuff around and some of the wires are not connected. Would someone please post a picture of the inside of their JHFF so I can see where some of these wires go?

Thanks in advance.

#3
did u get it used? from a store or a person? from the internet or in person?


if you can, return it for full refund. if it doesnt work, he scammed you (if he said it's in working condition) because it obviously is not.
Call me "Shot".

ShotRod Guitar Works

Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


Source to everything I say about Guitars, Pedals, and Amplifiers: I make them.


UG's Best DIY PedalBoard
#4
It's the black Dunlop Fuzz Face reissue JH2. I got it in person and I knew it wasn't working before I bought it. It was only $20 so I figured it would be a good deal if I could just figure out which wire goes where.
#5
Okay, well, I would take this opportunity to make it true bypass, because I bet it isn't.

You can get a new DPDT switch (unless you want an LED) from here: smmallbearelec.com
A Carling would do nicely for a DPDT.
If you want an LED, grab one of the blue 3PDT and the LED + resistor needed.

There's going to be a bit of work on your part to do this, since I don't know EXACTLY what yours looks like.

I'm assuming it's at least SOMEWHAT like a real Fuzz Face.
The "IN" is coming from the part of the diagram coming from the 2.2 uF electrolytic capacitor, as you can see from the schematic on the second link I posted.
The "Out" comes from the "2" lug on the Volume pot. Everything else should be somewhat clear?

Here's a wiring diagram for a 3PDT wired with an LED FF:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_ff5_lo_npn.pdf
It's the silicon transistor model from the original page:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=101&Itemid=26

If you want to use a DPDT, or the original (presumably SPDT) switch, here are the wiring diagrams for that.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=33&Itemid=27
Knowing where the "IN" and "OUT" options are should clear up those diagrams.
#6
Thanks for your help.

Here's some pics of it just in case you ever need to refer to it for any reason.



#8
Not real sure yet. I haven't really tried to track down the wires yet to see where everything leads. There are a few different places where it looks like wires used to be soldered but aren't anymore. I'll probably dive in tomorrow once my eyes get some rest. They're tired of squinting.

It also looks like there is a 500k pot for the fuzz. Isn't it usually a 1k linear?
#10
The volume looks original and it's 500k but the fuzz pot looks pretty new. Maybe that's where all of this went wrong. They tried to swap out the fuzz pot and then forgot where everything went.
#13
did u ground the gray wire hanging around? that looks like ur only problem to me.
Call me "Shot".

ShotRod Guitar Works

Custom Hand-wired Amplifiers and Effect Pedals.

Est. 2007


Source to everything I say about Guitars, Pedals, and Amplifiers: I make them.


UG's Best DIY PedalBoard
#14
Yeah. There is also a loose black one that I grounded with it. All I get is this VERY faint signal.
#15
The wire that's loose looks like it was once connected to the shell of the volume pot, which would explain the jumper wire to terminal 1. Also, that would explain why terminal 1 was bent back towards the shell. Inefficient way to ground that...

In the pictures, it also looks like the 'cold' lugs of the input and output jacks aren't grounded. I'd get on that if i were you.

The replacement fuzz pot is also not only the wrong value, but wired up wrong as well. The middle terminal should be running to the 20-22uf capacitor, one outer lug should be grounded, and the other outer lug should be going to the emitter of the transistor.

These pedals are notorious for sounding terrible. If you want to make them sound decent, its definitely possible. Read this: http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/fuzzface/fftech.htm; it should get you started.
Fender MIM Stratocaster
Ibanez TS-9 Tube Screamer
Fulltone OCD
Dallas-Arbiter Wah Baby
Home-Built Germanium Fuzz Face
MXR Carbon Copy Analog Delay
2 Fender Blues Juniors
#16
I know this thread was posted over a year ago but I've just purchased a JH-2 from eBay (it arrived this morning) and I don't think it sounds terrible exactly, just that it could do with a hair more output - being an electronics virgin could anyone give me a pointer on which resistor (I presume) I should replace to boost it up a bit?
Cheers!
K
#17
I know which resistor it is that you would need to increase, but I don't know what the values are in the current reissue. So I couldn't tell you which one you need to change.



In that schematic, the one labele 330 ohms may be increased to 1.2K for more output. However, it may not be 330 ohms in your circuit. See if you can figure out where it is.
#18
Quote by forsaknazrael
I know which resistor it is that you would need to increase, but I don't know what the values are in the current reissue. So I couldn't tell you which one you need to change.



In that schematic, the one labele 330 ohms may be increased to 1.2K for more output. However, it may not be 330 ohms in your circuit. See if you can figure out where it is.


I really haven't got a clue about electronics and can't read schematics unfortunately (I have Asperger's Syndrome) but I'll take some pics of the circuitboard when I get a chance and post them here.

Thanks!
#20
Quote by Invader Jim
The JH fuzzes are quite different from normal fuzzes. all I have is a diagram for a JH1 tho, but you said you couldn't read it.


I've got one of the JH-F1s, and aside from it being a bit hissy at times it's a great pedal - I'll probably end up buying a circuitboard from GeneralGuitarGadgets for the JH2 and upgrading it to to JH-F1 specs as I'll know which resistor/capacitor/transistor goes where if I have another circuitboard in front of me - thanks for your help, anyway
#21
Quote by forsaknazrael
I know which resistor it is that you would need to increase, but I don't know what the values are in the current reissue. So I couldn't tell you which one you need to change.



In that schematic, the one labele 330 ohms may be increased to 1.2K for more output. However, it may not be 330 ohms in your circuit. See if you can figure out where it is.



The Hendrix mod changed the 330 to 1K and the 8.2K was changed to 18K. On the RI dunlop I'm pretty sure the 330 has been changed to 470
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