#1
Ok i am restoring my old Fender Super Reverb and i have a few questions.

1. I am getting the tolex redone because the previous owner had taken it off and painted it, so i sent an e-mail to krusty cabs and he told me to sand it down. Now i have completely sanded on the outsides but there are some corners on the inside with a bit of paint that are really hard to get into and i dont want to do it unless necessary.

2. I am also taking the amp to get the electronics checked out. I know that one tube socket needs to be replaced. And probably need to check the reverb out because it causes a humming noise. As well as checking those old capacitors (this is a 1966 circuit board). Around how much can i expect for something like this. As im trying to find out how much im planning to spend restoring the amp.

3. I need to buy new, knobs, casters, handle, etc etc. Where is the best place to get this. Also an original faceplate is what im looking for, blackface.
#2
Sanding the paint off is preferable, but not necessary. My Bassman was also painted, and I just put tolex over it. No problem.

I have no idea what it would cost to replace the caps, since I did it myself. I spend around 50-60 Euros for new caps, so you can expect it to cost maybe twice that. I went with Sprague Atoms, but you could go with cheaper caps to save money. The other things that need to be fixed will quickly raise the cost of the whole maintenance job.
#3
Well i found all of the cosmetic parts for about 140 bucks. The caps dont necesarily HAVE to be replaced, im pretty sure the only problem with the amp was that one of the tube sockets was melted and it caused the amp to short. But since im thinking of selling it in the near future i wanted to get the caps checked, and i was told that the big old carboard capacitors should be replaced because of the age. I will be keeping all of the blue molded "tone" capacitors, unless they are fired of course. I think he wanted it sanded to fill in any wood blemishes, but i dont know if on the inside it will really matter. Does the tolex cover the inside as well or just partly inside where the ends go.
#4
Don't replace them if they aren't broke. That will turn people off, as a lot of Fender freaks say the old Paper and Oil caps make a difference.
#5
Quote by Chaosinborn
Well i found all of the cosmetic parts for about 140 bucks. The caps dont necesarily HAVE to be replaced, im pretty sure the only problem with the amp was that one of the tube sockets was melted and it caused the amp to short. But since im thinking of selling it in the near future i wanted to get the caps checked, and i was told that the big old carboard capacitors should be replaced because of the age. I will be keeping all of the blue molded "tone" capacitors, unless they are fired of course. I think he wanted it sanded to fill in any wood blemishes, but i dont know if on the inside it will really matter. Does the tolex cover the inside as well or just partly inside where the ends go.


The electrolytic caps HAVE to be replaced, since they are old enough to fail at any moment, and at best spray soggy paper and sulphuric acid inside your amp. If you're unlucky, they can take out a transformer. IMO, tone (non-polarized) caps should only be replaced if they fail, which is quite uncommon.

Save all replaced parts, so you can sell them with the amp.
#6
Hate to be no help whatsoever to the thread, but....PICS PLEASE!
And yea, definitely keep all replaced parts so they can be sold on with the amp....
Quote by jxljxl
If UG had a Facebook style Relationship thing, I'd e-marry you C-mak


Quote by jxljxl
I want C-mak in my bum.


^Think he might have a thing for me...
#7
Personally I would try to get the amp working before I spent any more time/money on the finish and tolex. Since you said that some melting had ocured I would really think about have the entire amp looked at buy a pro before you do any thing else. Or try to get the amp to work my self, Or does the amp still work? I just hate to see you spend a ton on an amp thats going to end up not being fixable.
#8
Quote by mr_hankey
The electrolytic caps HAVE to be replaced, since they are old enough to fail at any moment, and at best spray soggy paper and sulphuric acid inside your amp. If you're unlucky, they can take out a transformer. IMO, tone (non-polarized) caps should only be replaced if they fail, which is quite uncommon.

Save all replaced parts, so you can sell them with the amp.


Ok so these, the big cardboard ones(red). SHOULD be replaced. But not the blue ones right. (circled in blue)


As for the pics. This is a Silverface super reverb, probably headed out of Fender 1969. Howevever the only difference between this and the blackface is one transformer and the faceplate. As everything else inside is dated 66, including pots, transformers, caps and chassis and it is wired as a blackface. So its a blackface with the look of a silverface.
Here is a pic of the front, mind you right now its actually in pieces because i took the chassis and speakers out to sand the cabinet.

Sorry for the bad lightning


Here is a pic of the back


Inside the chassis




Speakers



And to the last post. My priority is the electrical part. So i will be doing that this saturday, i have an appointment at 10 so when i get back ill post what happened. But i am definetly going to get the tolex done so that, even if the amp can be fixed, i can use this as a cabinet for later use. The tolex job is only costing 70 bucks which, considering tolex per yard is around 25 bucks and that i have no idea what im doing is pretty good. Once the cab and chassis are totally done then i will be ordering the cosmetic parts. And of course i will be keeping the originals just in case
#9
Wow, very nice. Very very very nice. Mind me asking what it ran you?

You can try to keep it origional, but if want to play it regularly or reliably, it'll chip away at the origionality.
#10
It looks like quite a few parts have been replaced already. I see some new caps, resistors, wires and tube sockets.

Yes, the ones circled in red. Also the metallic one by the pilot light. That one is usually underrated, so it's a good idea to go for a 100v instead of a 50v. You could go higher in value there (100uF), without any problem (higher might be better, actually). Stick to (nearly) the same values for all the other ones though. Higher voltage is always ok, but not necessary with those.

The caps under the cover on the back all need to be replaced. Again, stick to similar values, and match or exceed the voltage rating.

It's amazing how much difference theses parts make. It turned my amp form a noisy, flabby and weak amp into the awesome tonemachine it's supposed to be.

Which circuit is it? AB763? Are those CTS speakers (I think I see a '137' code)?
Last edited by mr_hankey at Mar 10, 2008,
#11
Quote by the.spine.surfs
Wow, very nice. Very very very nice. Mind me asking what it ran you?

You can try to keep it origional, but if want to play it regularly or reliably, it'll chip away at the origionality.


It ran me 0 dollars. I got it for free from a friend of my uncles.

Quote by mr_hankey
It looks like quite a few parts have been replaced already. I see some new caps, resistors, wires and tube sockets.

Yes, the ones circled in red. Also the metallic one by the pilot light. That one is usually underrated, so it's a good idea to go for a 100v instead of a 50v. You could go higher in value there (100uF), without any problem (higher might be better, actually). Stick to (nearly) the same values for all the other ones though. Higher voltage is always ok, but not necessary with those.

The caps under the cover on the back all need to be replaced. Again, stick to similar values, and match or exceed the voltage rating.

It's amazing how much difference theses parts make. It turned my amp form a noisy, flabby and weak amp into the awesome tonemachine it's supposed to be.

Which circuit is it? AB763? Are those CTS speakers (I think I see a '137' code)?


Actually, i think its oly those caps, the wires all have the same film of dirt are whatever and i think on that picture the tube sockets look new but they original.
And you mean the caps on the underside next to the pre-amp tubes?

Ok ill make sure that i go through this. I just wanted to get an idea so i dont walk into the techs place a complete idiot.
#12
Quote by Chaosinborn
It ran me 0 dollars. I got it for free from a friend of my uncles.


Actually, i think its oly those caps, the wires all have the same film of dirt are whatever and i think on that picture the tube sockets look new but they original.
And you mean the caps on the underside next to the pre-amp tubes?

Ok ill make sure that i go through this. I just wanted to get an idea so i dont walk into the techs place a complete idiot.



WHAT? *shakes head in anger/disbelief*
You lucky lucky lucky guy....
Quote by jxljxl
If UG had a Facebook style Relationship thing, I'd e-marry you C-mak


Quote by jxljxl
I want C-mak in my bum.


^Think he might have a thing for me...
#13
Quote by cmakkidguitar
WHAT? *shakes head in anger/disbelief*
You lucky lucky lucky guy....


Haha yea i know. I got it about 3-4 years ago. I was going to buy a SS half stack, but then i was like im gonna call miguel up (my uncles friend) and ask him about amplifiers. So he was like yea telling me about some amps and then we hang up. About 30 minutes later he shows up at the door with this and he gives it to me because i remind him of himself when he was a kid starting to play guitar. So i was a 14 year old with a vintage fender amplifier. However i did it no justice, as i play mostly metal i ran a digitech metal master (SORRY!) to get distortion. So now im going to fix it up, probably play with it how it was supposed to be played and then most likely sell it to get something more versatile because its not really my tone.
#14
Quote by Chaosinborn
Actually, i think its oly those caps, the wires all have the same film of dirt are whatever and i think on that picture the tube sockets look new but they original.
And you mean the caps on the underside next to the pre-amp tubes?

Ok ill make sure that i go through this. I just wanted to get an idea so i dont walk into the techs place a complete idiot.


I only see one bakelite (brown) tube socket. That would be an original part. I also see some carbon film resistors towards the end of the eyelet board.

Yeah, take that big cover off, and you'll find 6-7 big caps. They all need to go. Is the amp safely discharged? Under that cover would be the most dangerous place to poke around if the caps are still charged.
#15
Quote by mr_hankey
I only see one bakelite (brown) tube socket. That would be an original part. I also see some carbon film resistors towards the end of the eyelet board.

Yeah, take that big cover off, and you'll find 6-7 big caps. They all need to go. Is the amp safely discharged? Under that cover would be the most dangerous place to poke around if the caps are still charged.


hmm all the tube sockets are black except one of the brown ones. I dont see much see much sense in having replaced all of the tube sockets except that one, so it came that way or that one brown one is a replacement.

As for the charge im guessing, it has been unplugged for about 6 months.
#16
Quote by Chaosinborn
hmm all the tube sockets are black except one of the brown ones. I dont see much see much sense in having replaced all of the tube sockets except that one, so it came that way or that one brown one is a replacement.

As for the charge im guessing, it has been unplugged for about 6 months.


Both my Fenders have bakelite sockets, and I've never heard about any amps being made with other sockets. I'm 99.7% sure those black ones are replacements.

After 6 months it *should* be safe, but check with a voltmeter to make sure.
#18
Are you getting a blackface plate for it (seeing as it is a blackface amp)?
#19
I havent decided yet, its hard finding original blackface plates for a super reverb, ive seen alot of the reissue ones but if im getting a blackface one i want original. If i cant then ill get a silverface plate, or should i get a black face plate anyways even if its a newer one
#20
Quote by Chaosinborn
However i did it no justice, as i play mostly metal i ran a digitech metal master (SORRY!) to get distortion.

Noooooooo!!!
#21
Quote by Chaosinborn
I havent decided yet, its hard finding original blackface plates for a super reverb, ive seen alot of the reissue ones but if im getting a blackface one i want original. If i cant then ill get a silverface plate, or should i get a black face plate anyways even if its a newer one


You'll get ripped off for an original one; if you can even find one. The new ones aren't cheap either, but an old one will probably cost more than the amp will gain in value because of it. I'd go for a new blackface.
#22
Quote by Silky Smooth
Noooooooo!!!


I know! i wont do it again!

Right now i have a terrible rig, i plug into my toneport and from the toneport i have a cable going to my frontman 15, so essentially i get all my tones from the gearbox software :P

Im planning to buy a new amp as soon as i get a car

Quote by mr_hankey
You'll get ripped off for an original one; if you can even find one. The new ones aren't cheap either, but an old one will probably cost more than the amp will gain in value because of it. I'd go for a new blackface.


Alrite then, i mostly wanted the original for the value but i guess the new one will be easier to find.
#23
UPDATE: With pictures

Ok so i got the cabinet back from Crusty Cabs. Here it is. It looks sexy :P



#25
Quote by mr_hankey
Awesome. Now you just need silver grillecloth...


Heh it will probably stay black for now because it doesnt really matter to me.
#27
Quote by mr_hankey
How's the actual amp doing?


Well ill probably get it back this saturday, i dropped it off at Pete Cages this past saturday and basically he told me everything you said. So the electrolytic caps are being replaced, same with the one behind the light. He is replacing the melted tube socket and he is checking the reverb for the hum. Also going through the rest of the wiring, i doubt anything is severely wrong with it because he would have called me already about it. So ill probably have it back by this weekend or next weekend.
#28
Quote by Chaosinborn
Well ill probably get it back this saturday, i dropped it off at Pete Cages this past saturday and basically he told me everything you said.


Cool. It's nice to know I'm not just spreading bull****.
#33
Looks great. I hope you're able to play it loud, that's when it sounds best.


Could you please measure the width of chassis for me? I've got a Bassman 10 chassis, and I'm wondering whether it will fit in a Super Reverb cabinet.
#34
Wow man! That looks niceeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Quote by jxljxl
If UG had a Facebook style Relationship thing, I'd e-marry you C-mak


Quote by jxljxl
I want C-mak in my bum.


^Think he might have a thing for me...
#35
Yea i cant wait to crank it, so far ive been able to take it to about 3 in my room. At that point things start to shake and my other guitars start to make noise due to string vibrations.
As for the chassis it is a little less than 23 inches. I dont have a tape measure so i had to use a 10 inch ruler.