So I finally got around to setting up the new Viper-1000 and while playing on it for the first time today I found that I have an issue with the 15th fret. G-15 and 16 sound the same pitch. All other notes on the G (0-14 and 16-24) seem to be just fine. All the other strings have the correct pitch at the 15th fret, but the sound is very poor and buzzy. This leads me to believe it has something to do with the entire fret and not the G string itself (which is brand new). I have the action very low and figured this might be the issue, but could this cause ONLY the 15th fret (specifically the G string) to sound like crap? The frets themselves look fine; straight and true. The intonation is perfect, I set it myself just before playing and double checked it. What could cause this?
Well, if I understand the problem, both the 15th and 16th notes are a B on yours, yes? (B, meaning the same note as the 12th on your B string) If they're both an A#, then I can't help you. But if they're both Bs, then chances are the 16th fret is a little too high. High enough that when you press behind the fifteenth, it gets cut off at the 16th instead.
Check this by raising the action (just a quick truss rod twist will do, no need to be in tune, just see if there's an audible difference) and if it is a problem you could either leave the action higher, file down the fret a little (without affecting the others too much) or get the fret replaced.
iron man - My pickup or my pick UP? Im confused. True meaning it is straight (the actual metal fret)

Aaron, ill check when I get home. How is the truss rod adjusted on a Viper? I dont know the first thing about that kind of adjustment I need to learn the tech stuff still. Ill try raising the action and retuning and setting intonation to see if that helps.
dont tell him to do something that can completely **** up his neck if he doesnt do it right.

go to a tech.
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A 90 degree twist won't **** up anything, unless your neck is about to crack, in which case I'd say breaking it is a good thing. That way you'd be forced to replace it, instead of waiting and having it break on stage.

Just find the end, either between the neck and the neck pickup, on the front, or behind the guitar, or at the headstock, usually behind a small plastic cover. Unless you've got 7 strings your strings shouldn't get in the way.

Use an allen key/wrench or screwdriver or whatever fits right, twist it clockwise (tightening) very slightly, then counter clockwise (loosening) until 90 degrees.
I read a great how-to I found regarding truss rod adjustment and learned a ton. very simple actually, ill give it a shot tomorrow. The article said to fret the E string at the 14th and check for the gap at the 6th. Does this sound like a good method? Anyone suggest something better? I can readjust the action once the truss has been adjusted without reversing the effects correct? I did notice that there seems to be a much larger space between the fretboard and the strings near the top of the neck than there is at the bottom, even with no strings fretted. I assumed it was the design of the guitar. I suppose that would be corrected by tightening the truss rod to pull the strings and straighten the neck?
i had that, the problem was the string was bent. try the other suggestions, then if they dont work, change your strings and (possibly) the gauge of the strings
Don't touch the truss rod unless IT NEEDS IT.

I really really wish some of these people would quit saying truss rod every time someone has a problem that's most likely NOT related to the truss rod.

Buzzing on one fret is most likely to be a high fret. Period. You can prove it by putting a 6" ruler across that section of the neck parallel to the strings, if it rocks back and forth slightly, the fret it rocks on is too high. That means one of two things. It's loose, or the factory fret leveling was not great, which is very common.

Tap it lightly with a wood block, and make sure the neck is well supported under the area of the fret. Tap LIGHTLY, it doesn't take much. If you still have some buzz, sand it a little with a foam fingernail file, again it won't take much.

While you're at it, check the neck, and you'll be able to find out if a truss rod adjustment is actually needed. First look down the neck, from the headstock. You should see a very slight bow away from the strings in the middle. Then capo the 1st fret and fret it at the 15th. You should have enough clearance at the 8th fret to fit a heavy guitar pick between strings and frets. If it has more, it's definitely not causing your fret buzz, that would be caused by too little clearance. But it won't be a major problem. If the strings are touching, you need more back bow, which is what the truss rod is for.

But...this is at the 15th fret, back bow should have little or no effect, the truss rod adjusts clearance at the MIDDLE, not the upper section where neck joins body. So the truss rod should never have even been mentioned.

You have two options.

1. High fret - tap with a wood block or sand as described above.

2. Raise the action a tad.

DON'T TOUCH THE TRUSS ROD... unless you can prove it is necessary. Truss rods break easily and the repair is very expensive, worthwhile only on vintage and high end guitars with 4 figure price tags. If your guitar costs less than $500 new, a truss rod replacement will cost nearly as much as a guitar replacement. If you don't know how to do it, take it to a shop. NEVER go more than 1/4 turn at a time, then let it settle overnight. I always put a drop or two of oil on the adjusting nut and let it soak in overnight in case the threads are rusted, and I always LOOSEN it first, to be sure the threads are not frozen. above all, BE CAREFUL, it breaks easy.
Hmmm...I wonder what this button does...
Buzzing isnt the main concern, its the fact that im getting the same note sounding on the 15th and 16th frets on the G string only. The rest of the strings sound odd on the 15th fret but dont have the same issue as the G. I really wish I had the guitar here with me so I could figure this out. Thank you for the info and warning paleo ill try everything possible before messing with the rod.

To clarify, loosening the truss rod will cause bowing, while tightening it causes back-bowing? Or is it the other way around?

Also, as a note, all the strings are brand new Ernie Ball Beefy's, and the action adjusters are about a full turn from being at the bottom of their bore. The action is still reasonably high considering the position of the bridge saddle, especially near the headstock at the lower frets.

All input is welcome im up to try all ideas when I get home later.
usually when you get the same note ringing out it's from a high fret. you can let a tech tap it in. (you said it's a new guitar right?)

anyway, if the action is high, you can always check your neck relief by

fretting the first fret LoW E, at the same time,
fret the last fret Low E, where the neck and body meet.

with both places held, look at the middle frets 7-9th.

if the string lays on the fret wire there, you don't have enough bend.
if the string is more than a credit cards thickness up from the wire there, you probably have too much bend.

this is checked with a balanced bridge.

anyway, if you want, you can have the frett looked at, tapped in, with a tiny /rubber hammer.
and or you can check ur neck relief. (making sure not to adjust until posting again)

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The truss rod has a very specific function and is NOT the solution to action and fret problems. Anyone who just yells "truss rod!" at the first sign of trouble loses all credibility when it comes to adjusting your guitar.

I'm almost thinking of starting a list of people who ignorantly tell others to fix their action, cure dead frets and attain sexual pleasure by adjusting the truss rod.
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Seriously, who thinks "Shit, i'm gonna die, BRB, Ima' tell UG."?

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^. we used to have a Do Not listen to list. but i think they thought it was a little mean.

Quote by TNfootballfan62
Jenny needs to sow her wild oats with random Gibsons and Taylors she picks up in bars before she settles down with a PRS.

Set up Questions? ...Q & A Thread

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A/GB&C WTLT Lists 2011