I heard that, the difference between class A PP and Class AB is that one is cathode and thus auto bias, and the other one need to be adjust. Is that true?
your best bet is to post in the only tubes thread, stickied at the top.
I'm an idiot and I accidentally clicked the "Remove all subscriptions" button. If it seems like I'm ignoring you, I'm not, I'm just no longer subscribed to the thread. If you quote me or do the @user thing at me, hopefully it'll notify me through my notifications and I'll get back to you.
Quote by K33nbl4d3
I'll have to put the Classic T models on my to-try list. Shame the finish options there are Anachronism Gold, Nuclear Waste and Aged Clown, because in principle the plaintop is right up my alley.

Quote by K33nbl4d3
Presumably because the CCF (Combined Corksniffing Forces) of MLP and Gibson forums would rise up against them, plunging the land into war.

Quote by T00DEEPBLUE
Et tu, br00tz?
The rating is in the way that the tubes are used within the amp, class A amps the tubes are constantly running, amplifying the entire waveform so there is a perfect signal. Class AB basically runs two sets of tubes, each one doing half the signal, then crossing over to form the complete signal, producing some distortion in the process but being more efficient than class A.

I think that is what I have gathered.
2004 Fender American HSS Strat
Hughes And Kettner Switchblade
Schecter C-1 Hellraiser FR
Epi LP Classic
Epi G-400
Yamaha acoustic
Boss DD-3 Delay
B.Y.O.C. MXR Distortion+
Vox Wah
Ibanez TS9 Tube Screamer