#1
Right, I've started planning an RR build that I'm going to do once my exams are over.


**Updated specs:

RR24 body shape
Body: 1 piece swamp ash, with red grain filler and dark stain (ala Gibson Voodoo models),
Neck: Glued-in mahogany with scarfed ESP style headstock,
Truss rod: 460mm dual action + walnut fillet,
Nut: Graphite,
Fingerboard: 16" radius ebony 24 frets/25.5" scale with white dot inlays along the side only,
Frets: Jumbo,
Bridge: Recessed black chrome tune-o-matic with string-through,
Bridge pickup: Irongear Hammerhead bridge model,
Controls: Bridge volume/push-pull as killswitch,.
Knobs: Recessed black metal dome,
Tuners: Wilkinson mini rotomatic black chrome,
Other crap: Schaller black chrome straplocks, black Strat-style recessed jackplate on upper wing.

I'm just getting my template and budget worked out, then I'll begin work near the end of May.

Also, does anyone have any advice? This will be my first build from scratch, and my first neck build too.. so any little inside tips from the luthiers of UG would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by -MintSauce- at Mar 30, 2008,
#2
If your going for a trans finish then ash always seems to work well.

Do you have this book

'Make Your Own Electric Guitar by Melvyn Hiscock'

if not get it, I havent finished reading it yet, but even if you dont directly think 'damn that just saved my ass' its still a good read and worth the £15

Dont rush, decide the exact bridge and nut you are going to use, find out the dimensions, draw them up full scale, with the rest of the guitars dimensions decided as well.

With a TOM you are either going to need to recess it, use a neck angle, or have high action, decide before you start cutting anything.

Read all the project guitar tutorials, and their forums, you can spend hours there.

There is tons of stuff, and I am a novice of the highest regard, but I will poke my head in and answer any questions I can




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#3
If you are doing an RR w/ TOM, may I suggest string through. I've heard it's good, and Rhoads himself used a stringthrough live.
DIO FOREVER
#4
Quote by 60CycleHum
If you are doing an RR w/ TOM, may I suggest string through. I've heard it's good, and Rhoads himself used a stringthrough live.


Yep, I'm going for a string-through body

Quote by -MintSauce-

Bridge: Black chrome tune-o-matic with string-through,


For the neck, I'm going to aim for a 5 degree angle on it. That should give it a Gibson-esque feel, and allow me to just use a normal ToM, without recessing it.

How the hell do you go about radiusing a fretboard btw?
#5
Quote by -MintSauce-
Yep, I'm going for a string-through body


For the neck, I'm going to aim for a 5 degree angle on it. That should give it a Gibson-esque feel, and allow me to just use a normal ToM, without recessing it.

How the hell do you go about radiusing a fretboard btw?


With a radius block and sandpaper.

eg.

#7
DONT do a 5 degree angle, it'll be too much and the TOM will be about 2 inch from the body!
As a general rule 3 Degrees is fine for a flat topped body with a glued in neck. Its worked fine on all my builds. A Les Paul has a 5 degree angle but because of its carved top it works out. To be safe, you really need to draw it out to scale.
That 'Make Your Own Electric Guitar by Melvyn Hiscock' is an essential purchase, seriously.
#10
Thank you for all of the replies guys!

JC, thanks for the links too dude. I have David Dyke bookmarked already, but the others are on my list too now.
#12
The guys at David Dyke Luthier supplies are great guys, very helpful and informative. I spoke to David on the phone once about getting a fretboard slotted in 27" scale.

Personally (and in the V build I'm doing) I would just recess the bridge, since the top is not carved, I think it would be easier than messing around with neck angle. I also find that angled necks (like on a LP) feel different to a non recessed guitar, in terms of where you hands are.

+1 to the multiple suggests of buying Melvyn Hiscock's book. It is very useful, not only in the actual build stages, but also in the planning stages. He extensively explains bolt on, set neck and neck through designs, including all the stuff about neck angle.
#13
Quote by LP Addict
hey dude, irrelevent, but how do you like the motherbucker?


Hmm.. it's a badass pickup for the money - super responsive, with great sustain, a STUPIDly high output and insane inductance. The voicing sits between the sterility of an EMG 81 and the organic warmth of something like an SH-4. I think that you really need it with a bassy or at least middy tonewood. It seems pretty well suited to basswood, as I've got in my RG at the moment. Also, you'll need a pretty high-output neck pickup to match it too, otherwise you'll never get it to blend nicely.
#14
Quote by thedonutman
The guys at David Dyke Luthier supplies are great guys, very helpful and informative. I spoke to David on the phone once about getting a fretboard slotted in 27" scale.


QFT

He made me a custom wenge central laminate, and was very nice to talk to and very helpful.




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#15
Okayyy... here's a quick knock-up image from Kisekae for visualisation:



That's the closest I could get to the swamp ash w/ red grain filler + dark stain, so here's a 'swatch' of what I'm aiming for:



Does anyone have any cool suggestions for simple inlays? I'm thinking about putting them on the 5th, 12th, 17th, and 24th frets.

Also, how easy is it to bind a neck and headstock?
#16
^

I've been asking myself the same question regarding the binding, I think if you have a router with a nice set of bits, then it will work out relatively simple.

Kinda like this



But I'm not a real luthier, so I'll wait for someone else to chime in.

As for the inlays, maybe Iommi crosses? Or your initials? If you want to keep it simple, then just inlay the 12th and leave the rest blank.
#17
Itd be easier to rout the binding channel then do the radius on the edge. You wouldnt need the dowels and it would be more stable to do it that way.
#19
The mock up looks nice, made me think of what it would look like to do a rose wood body, could be killer




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#20
Just a quick update. I've been doing some thinking, planning, and budgeting.

I'm going for an Irongear Hammerhead hex humbucker in the bridge, because I use those in my other guitars and I LOVE them (I also can't afford more EMGs at the moment). I'm also going to put an Irongear Jailhouse Rail in the neck, with a cavity right next to the fretboard end. The main reason for that is to give me an extra inch or so's worth of tenon coming into the body (even though I'll route some of it out afterwards). I'm also doing away with the boost, as I get plenty of gain from a high output pickup, my pedals, and my amps.

JS, I've been checking out your builds again - mainly looking at your work on the necks. I'm going go with a tenon design, because that seems the best way of getting stability without sacrificing fret access.

I'm going to ask my brother very politely for his help rendering this dream in AutoCAD.

Oh, mahogany neck too! Lots of changes, so I'll update the first post.

Edit: To accommodate the second pickup, but not get things cluttered, I'm just going to have two pots. One will be a push pull, which will control the bridge pickup volume, then enable the neck when pulled. The second will just be a standard Log pot for the neck volume. Yeah, I stole that idea from George Lynch (who probably stole it from someone else).
Last edited by -MintSauce- at Mar 27, 2008,
#21
And here's the neck design render, for anyone who missed it:



I've changed my mind about the neck pickup and cavity though, so scrap that!
Last edited by -MintSauce- at Mar 31, 2008,
#22
The obligatory UG foot shot I see there, very nice




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#23
Quote by Absent Mind
The obligatory UG foot shot I see there, very nice


Haha.. I deliberately put my slippers in the shot. Pictures on here wouldn't be the same without feet.
#24
Good choice with the Set Neck. I think it'l look awesome when its done. Ive been thinking bout doing a V like this but got loads on at the minute. I'll be keeping an ey on this bad boy. Good luck!
#26
Final working template:



My brother has agreed to print the lot onto A1 width paper using the plotter at work.. so yay!

The headstock artwork is still a work-in-progress, and I couldn't be arsed to draw the whole neck tenon up.

The project is going to cost me about £260.
#27
Nobody cares really, but here are the parts I've got so far:



... laid out on the OLD template, because I haven't printed the new one yet.


I'm still waiting until after exams to get wood. I've decided on alder for the wings and mahogany for the neck, then I'm going to get a local spray shop to give it a few coats of arctic white nitro.

I'm also making it a full neck through, so I can use a smaller body blank, and save pennies.

Here's the template atm:



I need to get it printed.
#30
Thanks guys!

I'm so excited about getting started. Oh, and a tiny update: I've just 'secured' an EMG from eBay for this build. The logo is silver, which would suggest that it's an 81, but the back sticker apparently says "EMG 85". Anyway, whether it's an 81 or 85, it'll still work fine in the bridge position, or I'll swap it with the 81 in my Schecter. I can't be bothered to install a battery case and do the routing for it - mainly because I don't trust myself, but also because I change batteries so rarely. I don't care about opening a cover twice a year.
#31
Exciting, with all the people building V's here, it should be good fun swapping ideas and such.

Good luck with it all
Quote by Liberation
Every time I see your avatar I want to slit your neck with a butterknife. Goddamn Pingu.
#32
I'll be watching your every move...not like a stalker...cuz i wanna build a RR Copy
Guitars:
Ibanez EW30ASERLG
Jackson Performer PS4 (soon to be sold)
Schecter C-1 Hellraiser FR
Orpheus Valley Fiesta FC
Gear:
POD X3 Live
Boss ME-20
Marshall MG15DFX
M-Audio Fastrack Ultra
Boss DR660
#34
Quote by Guitarzan1143
want to share that rhino CNC file?


Have a look on this site for some plans: http://www.guitarbuild.com/modules/mydownloads/index.php

They're AutoCAD .dwg's, but you can open them in Rhino.

I'm not really happy to give the file away, as it's been a lot of work. I will give one tip though... import a head-on perspective image as the background for one of the views, then trace it with lines and curves. That'll give you a rough outline that you can tweak and add to. Also, the templates on that site contain plenty of part diagrams to copy and paste out as a start.
Last edited by -MintSauce- at Apr 25, 2008,
#35
Yeah, ive designed about 6 guitars so far, just taking strats and such and modifying, makign this smaller, this cutout bigger, this bevelled more, this have a bigger scallop, etc. I am working on making a complete original. i only really use the CNC for doing neck pocket route and bridge route so that they remain a constant when i am building, then pickups and everything i use templates and center line method. im starting to work out some fingerboard radiusing and neck shaping with it, but havent gotten that far with it yet.
fight the power that be
#36
Quote by Guitarzan1143
Yeah, ive designed about 6 guitars so far, just taking strats and such and modifying, makign this smaller, this cutout bigger, this bevelled more, this have a bigger scallop, etc. I am working on making a complete original. i only really use the CNC for doing neck pocket route and bridge route so that they remain a constant when i am building, then pickups and everything i use templates and center line method. im starting to work out some fingerboard radiusing and neck shaping with it, but havent gotten that far with it yet.



Ohh, well, I did the neck design using Valve Hammer Editor - the map-making too for Half-Life. I didn't save it though, and I've changed my mind about it.

I've also only done 2D drawings of the guitar stuff
#37
well rhino is free trial-stuff. its great becaue you get 25 saves and full usage of the program. i can make 25 saves last 4 years if i never turn my program off. rhino is THE best for CAD. they use it for building airplanes, battleships, etc.
fight the power that be
#38
Getcha an Earvana Compensated nut from Warmoth to put on that instead, for AMAZING intonation
Then there's this band called Slice The Cake...

Bunch of faggots putting random riffs together and calling it "progressive" deathcore.
Stupid name.
Probably picked "for teh lulz"

Mod in UG's Official Gain Whores
#39
the compensated nut idea is for people who dont know how to correctly place a bridge. i remember buzz-feiten tried to get the shop i was working for to be a dealer, that whole deal is such a big load, that dude has no idea what hes talking about when it comes to guitars. Earvana is quite a step up from buzz feiten, but still if your bridge is placed properly and you fretted your neck correctly, there is no need.
fight the power that be