#1
OK guys, I made a guitar from parts I bought from places. Simple. I tried to do a trans blue finish on the flame maple using water based stain. Also simple.

WHY IS MY GUITAR SO FREAKING UGLY? Here are some pictures.
The blue is incredibly pale and streaky even though I applied it according to the stain instructions. Any ideas UG?

first coat... it looks worse in real life


here is the first coat closer up


and here is the back, also very bad


and the stain I used

the rag, maybe what I used to apply it will makea difference?? I put it on with a foam brush and wiped of the excess, like it said, with a piece of old T-shirt.. lint free and everything



so If any of you have been through this before please help me. I put on the second coat just a few minutes ago and I can not tell the difference... they are exactly the same. Thanks for any help
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
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#2
Hey, did you put sanding sealer on before the dye? if so sand it off and redye. thats my only suggestion for now. also, what grit is it sanded to??
#3
How smooth is it? It looks like you didn't scrape it after sanding. Scraping is always preferred for a baby-skin smooth finish to the wood, which accepts color far better.
Sincerely, Chad.
Quote by LP Addict
LP doesnt have to stand for les paul.. it can stand for.... lesbian porn.
#4
The wood was sanded with 220, then 320, then 600 cause I felt like it. It was smoother than silk.

Uhmm nope no sanding sealer. The stain went on to virgin wood (lol inuendo +1)
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#5
Quote by Øttər
The wood was sanded with 220, then 320, then 600 cause I felt like it. It was smoother than silk.

It may certainly seem that way to you, but if you ran your fingernail perpendicular to the direction you sanded, you'd most certainly feel the marks of sanding.

Try scraping instead. I have a before and after picture of wood that was sanded with 2000 grit and then scraped, and the difference is startling.
Sincerely, Chad.
Quote by LP Addict
LP doesnt have to stand for les paul.. it can stand for.... lesbian porn.
#6
wow.. ok so what do I scrape it with (if you say a scraper I'm going to have to hang myself for stupidity)
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#7
sand it off, its not gonna get better with more coats. hmmm maybe you should try a waterbased aniline dye. I'm not sure thats the right stuff, I'm no expert on finishes, so I'd have to see it in real life to think of some more possibilities, but yea, if you cant get it to work try aniline dye.
#8
k, what is the main difference between aniline dye and water based stain?
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#9
Quote by Øttər
wow.. ok so what do I scrape it with (if you say a scraper I'm going to have to hang myself for stupidity)

How much rope do you have?

Yes, it is a scraper. It's often called either a cabinet scraper or just a wood scraper. You can buy them at just about any hardware store or from Stewart Macdonald. I wouldn't invest in a fancy one with a wooden handle or anything. The ones I use are just plain blades. Here is some information on scraping or sharpening an old scraper (which you should not have to do if you buy a package of new ones):
http://www.woodzone.com/articles/scrapers/index.htm
Sincerely, Chad.
Quote by LP Addict
LP doesnt have to stand for les paul.. it can stand for.... lesbian porn.
#10
you have to put minwax pre-stain on first...it's in the instructions on the stain you bought, always scan instructions
#12
haha, sorry for the double post possibly but I just read the rest of the topic that i didn't see while making this post. The scraper is unnecessary. If you sand starting at 220 or 150 and go up to 400 before putting the dye one you should be fine. But yes, a scraper is the right tool for scraping lol. Ive dyed a few times and haven't had this problem., which is why I'm -90% sure sanding is not the problem.
#13
Ok yeah it did say about the pre stain on the instructions. I read it, and I acknowledged it, but being a guy I thought to myself, I dont need no ****ing prestain. Of course I was wrong... Ok so I'll take off the blue, and put on the pre stain, and put on some more blue. Thanks to everyone who helped.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#14
I kind of like it actually. If you could put more dye on spots, ti would look like thos ekiller denim finishes you see on PRS and Suhr fiddles.
#15
yeah I hate it... to me it looks unprofessional and downright ugly... if you could see in person I think you might agree. These pictures don't do this br00tal job justice.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#16
Exactly how sure are you that there's no sealer on that body? Because to me it looks a lot like that dye isn't soaking in at all, which should have nothing to do with prestain or scraping. Almost any raw wood surface will drink up lots and lots of dye.
#17
^thats exactly what my first thought was, but since i've never worked with that dye i wasn't sure
#19
I'm using stain, not dye... wait is there a difference?

And actually it is strange the way the wood is behaving. If the wood did not have a pre-stain, I might expect it to soak up the stain unevenly, but it's not soaking up at all...

I got this body from guitar fetish, and I haven't applied anything at all to it other than this blue, water based stain. If they put something on it, it was done without my knowledge. The wood seemed completely unfinished when I got it, because I had to wood fill some rough areas. I don't know what the issue is, but tomorrow I'm sanding it back to bare wood to start over with a pre-stain.

If anyone has any other suggestions, please do tell.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#21
Yeah but why would it be sealed? And also, why would it be sealed but still rough? I do not understand ):
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#22
Is that a saga body?

Anyway, I tried to stain a saga body with the exact same stain (ocean blue)? and if phailed miserably. So now I'm covering it with silver leaf which I think should be pretty cool.
If you think things can't get worse it's probably only because you lack sufficient imagination.
#23
Quote by Øttər
Yeah but why would it be sealed? And also, why would it be sealed but still rough? I do not understand ):

Many eBay bodies are sealed. I suspect they do this to keep the wood from eating up moisture during transport so it won't split or get blotchy.

And BTW- I use the words 'stain' and 'dye' at random. I'm not a native English speaker, so I'm not quite sure if they're the same, but for the sake of this problem, no matter if it's stain or dye, it would soak into the wood just fine if the wood was actually bare.

edit: I know for a fact that all the unfinished Guitarfetish bodies were sealed.
#24
Iv just ordered a Saga kit, if the body is sealed is it possible to remove the sealing?
Quote by rebelmidget
your pubes are like the amazon rainforest and your body is planet earth. trim a little here and there and your life will be more comfortable
but cut down the whole damn forest and mother nature is going to cut you


#26
Oh ok, well is there any other way to achieve a finish similar to this then?:

Quote by rebelmidget
your pubes are like the amazon rainforest and your body is planet earth. trim a little here and there and your life will be more comfortable
but cut down the whole damn forest and mother nature is going to cut you


#27
i know warmoth does an oil based prefinish on their necks. if that was the case with your body, well oil and water dont mix well. **** you chemistry!