#1
I'm absolutely sick and tired of this. Every time I break a string, I change the whole lot so that the tensions due to the quality of the string are relatively similar. I use Regular or Super Slinky Ernie Balls on and Ibanez RG1570 Prestige. No matter what the **** I do, I cannot tune the bastard thing because as soon as I go to tune the next string, all the other ****ers go out again.

Any help that avoids this problem would be MAJORLY appreciated as I may have to sell the guitar if this can't be resolved.

And don't point out things like "Try locking the nut" because doing that doesn't really acheive much.
My Gear:

Crafter FW 700ES Electro-Acoustic

Squier Strat (Cheap Chinese one but I got it for free.)

Ibanez RG1570 Prestige

Marshall MG30DFX

Line 6 Uber Metal Distortion
#2
You dont have to change them all for a start....just change one and then retune them like normal, obv they may need to stretch a bit before holding perfect tune....are you very experienced in guitar matters?
Diezel, Motherfucker
#3
block the trem off while your tuning so that when all the strings are tuned just unblock it.
it might be alittle out of tune so just fine tune it.
but im not an expert in trems
Send me off to bed forevermore.
#4
Overtune, it helps.

^
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You better click that bastard.



Ibanez RG370DX
Peavey Valveking 112 (w/ Bad Monkey and GE-7 EQ)
#5
Quote by mh400nt
You dont have to change them all for a start....just change one and then retune them like normal, obv they may need to stretch a bit before holding perfect tune....are you very experienced in guitar matters?


I know I don't have to change them all, I just do it for continuity, it's almost like an OCD. Plus if I'm playing, it really throws me when the strings feel different under my fingers and if one string is newer, generally the quality of the sound it produces is different from the others. The oxidation affect the sonorous quality of the metal.
My Gear:

Crafter FW 700ES Electro-Acoustic

Squier Strat (Cheap Chinese one but I got it for free.)

Ibanez RG1570 Prestige

Marshall MG30DFX

Line 6 Uber Metal Distortion
#6
Quote by MakeItWitChu
Overtune, it helps.


Define overtune? Do you mean make everything sharp or what?
My Gear:

Crafter FW 700ES Electro-Acoustic

Squier Strat (Cheap Chinese one but I got it for free.)

Ibanez RG1570 Prestige

Marshall MG30DFX

Line 6 Uber Metal Distortion
#7
Quote by RatmN'Roses
block the trem off while your tuning so that when all the strings are tuned just unblock it.
it might be alittle out of tune so just fine tune it.
but im not an expert in trems

Never heard of it being done just for tuning. I'll look into it.
My Gear:

Crafter FW 700ES Electro-Acoustic

Squier Strat (Cheap Chinese one but I got it for free.)

Ibanez RG1570 Prestige

Marshall MG30DFX

Line 6 Uber Metal Distortion
#9
Quote by Zeds_Dead
Define overtune? Do you mean make everything sharp or what?

Overtuning would be tuning everything sharp.
Start at low e and maybe tune it to f and repeat for each strings overtuning a step for each string, by the end you may have all your strings closer to each note. Keep experimenting with that until you get it right.

^
He's laughing at YOU.
You better click that bastard.



Ibanez RG370DX
Peavey Valveking 112 (w/ Bad Monkey and GE-7 EQ)
#10
Quote by Zeds_Dead
I'm absolutely sick and tired of this. Every time I break a string, I change the whole lot so that the tensions due to the quality of the string are relatively similar. I use Regular or Super Slinky Ernie Balls on and Ibanez RG1570 Prestige. No matter what the **** I do, I cannot tune the bastard thing because as soon as I go to tune the next string, all the other ****ers go out again.

Any help that avoids this problem would be MAJORLY appreciated as I may have to sell the guitar if this can't be resolved.

And don't point out things like "Try locking the nut" because doing that doesn't really acheive much.

Ignore everyone else in this thread, they've misunderstood your problem, and it can't be resolved - it happens with any floating bridge.

The bridge is held stable by balancing the tension of the strings with the tension of the springs. Therefore any change in tension will result in everything shifting to compensate - if you change the tuning of a string you're changing the tension therefore the tension in all the other strings will change to compensate. That's just how the bridge works, you simply have to keep going back over your tuning from low to high until it settles down.

Just make sure that...

1- you never take all the strings off at once, change them one at a time.

and 2 - after restringing, THOROUGHLY stretch your strings before locking the nut and fine tuning.
Actually called Mark!

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#11
Quote by steven seagull

1- you never take all the strings off at once, change them one at a time.

and 2 - after restringing, THOROUGHLY stretch your strings before locking the nut and fine tuning.


Sound advice if I ever heard it. The overtuning thing nearly worked though. I still think I'm gonna sell it though - Get something simple like Les Paul xD

Cheers for all your help so far guys.
My Gear:

Crafter FW 700ES Electro-Acoustic

Squier Strat (Cheap Chinese one but I got it for free.)

Ibanez RG1570 Prestige

Marshall MG30DFX

Line 6 Uber Metal Distortion
#12
String it this way:

replace ONLY the broken string tune it, stretch it out
Replace ONLY the low E, tune it, stretch it out.
Replace ONLY the A, tune it, stretch it out.
Replace ONLY the D, tune it, stretch it out.
Replace ONLY the G, tune it, stretch it out.
Replace ONLY the B, tune it, stretch it out.
Replace ONLY the high E, tune it, stretch it out.

Of course don't remove the new string that you put in to replace the old one. doing it this way keeps the balance almost perfectly in tune. One of the most easiest way's to re-string a floating bridge.
For those who care.
Current Gear
Cort Zenox Z42
Flextone II
Charvel USA So-Cal
Farida M2 Parlour Acoustic
Admira Hand-built Spanish Acoustic
Blackstar HT-5H
Line 6 M13