#1
Hey,
I just got a Chicago Blues Box roadhouse the other day, and although it's a fantastic amp, the stock power tubes are sovteks, which I am not a fan of.
they're Sovtek kt66's to be precise. I was wondering what good tube would be to get a deeper, more fendery overdriven tone. And, can I switch from a KT66 to a 6L6 without having to bias?
If I must bias, how would I go about doing it? The manual says that it uses something called a power draw method, but it doesn't say HOW to do it.

And finally, can I hurt my amp if I bias it wrong?

Thanks!
Call me Wes.
Gear:
Fender American Deluxe HSS Strat
Chicago Blues Box Roadhouse
Bad Cat Cougar 5
1957 Gibson GA-5
Ceriatone 18w TMB Combo
Hughes & Kettner Tube Factor
Various Ibanez TS9s
Weber MASS Attenuator
#2
i dont know about the bias myself, but what i DO know is... when u change tubes, u should wear light gloves or something, because you dont want to touch the glass part of the tube. if you get finger oil on it anywhere, it could heat up on the tube, and wreck it. if u cant use gloves, just grab it by the base, closest the prongs, using 2 fingers.
Gear

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ESP LTD EC QM200
Ibanez RG321 w/ EMG 81/60

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Mesa Boogie 4x12 Slant cab

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#3
^I thought that was just a myth?
I dunno, I've heard too many opinions.
Well, if I switch from a KT66 to a 6l6, would I HAVE to bias?
Or is more of a tone thing? Is it really NECESSARY to bias power tubes?
Call me Wes.
Gear:
Fender American Deluxe HSS Strat
Chicago Blues Box Roadhouse
Bad Cat Cougar 5
1957 Gibson GA-5
Ceriatone 18w TMB Combo
Hughes & Kettner Tube Factor
Various Ibanez TS9s
Weber MASS Attenuator
#4
why dont you ask in the tubes sticky in GGA?

Whodicted



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#5
I'm not sure why there's such a bad stigma against Sovtek. New Sensor's ability to produe a quality valve has really improved over the last decade.

That being said, amp companies tend to choose a specific brand and type of tube for a reason. Especially boutique companies! I have a feeling that, despite your reservations, the company that built your amp had a great reason for loading that amp with Sovteks that had very little to do with cost. Boutique companies can't afford to cut corners, that would make them like every other mass-production company. They would have chose those specific Sovteks to fit, tonally, with the rest of the amp.

For the reccord, I bought a Crate V33 with the intention of trading out the quad of Sovtek EL84's for either some NOS RCA's or new production Mullards. After playing the amp for a couple weeks, however, I feel no such need; the Sovtek's are very smooth and suprisingly clear.
#6
^You're absolutely right, but the tubes didn't come stock with the new amp.
A previous owner put in sovteks. I think the original tubes were something like Tungsol 6l6's.
Call me Wes.
Gear:
Fender American Deluxe HSS Strat
Chicago Blues Box Roadhouse
Bad Cat Cougar 5
1957 Gibson GA-5
Ceriatone 18w TMB Combo
Hughes & Kettner Tube Factor
Various Ibanez TS9s
Weber MASS Attenuator
#7
Quote by ConstableMurtis
i dont know about the bias myself, but what i DO know is... when u change tubes, u should wear light gloves or something, because you dont want to touch the glass part of the tube. if you get finger oil on it anywhere, it could heat up on the tube, and wreck it. if u cant use gloves, just grab it by the base, closest the prongs, using 2 fingers.


Bull****.

There was a thread on this a while ago in GG&A.
#8
Quote by mr_hankey
Bull****.

There was a thread on this a while ago in GG&A.

Whaddaya mean bull? You have to use gloves when replacing Halogen lamps like your headlights in your car. They have a partial vacuum inside. So of course you can extrapolate that to tubes. They're made of glass and have a vacuum inside. Who cares if halogen bulbs get ridiculously hot compared to vacuum tubes. Glass is glass. Vacuum is vacuum. So if a halogen lamp will fail if handled with fingers, a vacuum tube must fail, too. And while we're on the subject...

Screw all that re-biasing bull****. Just put any damned tube in the amp that fits. Who cares if the characteristics of the tube are different and you'll have so much current in the output tubes that they redplate. Or if they'll run so cold that the distortion will make you puke. Knowing what conditions your amp is running at is for saps. Just slap the damned tubes in and if smoke comes out after playing for an hour or two, throw the amp away and buy a new one.

/sarcasm
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#9
Quote by darkarbiter7
^You're absolutely right, but the tubes didn't come stock with the new amp.
A previous owner put in sovteks. I think the original tubes were something like Tungsol 6l6's.

D'oh. There's 3 years of absorbed GG&A knoledge, completly wasted.

Go for Tung-sol 6L6's, then!
#10
do you think i'd have to rebias?
Aren't KT66's very similar to 6L6's?

And I just asked the Tube thread in GG&A.
But responses are slow there, so I thought I could move things along a bit quicker in this forum.
Call me Wes.
Gear:
Fender American Deluxe HSS Strat
Chicago Blues Box Roadhouse
Bad Cat Cougar 5
1957 Gibson GA-5
Ceriatone 18w TMB Combo
Hughes & Kettner Tube Factor
Various Ibanez TS9s
Weber MASS Attenuator
#12
The manual says it has dual bias controls.
Which apparently allow you to have two completely different tube types running at once.
Example: An EL34 and a KT66 running at once
Call me Wes.
Gear:
Fender American Deluxe HSS Strat
Chicago Blues Box Roadhouse
Bad Cat Cougar 5
1957 Gibson GA-5
Ceriatone 18w TMB Combo
Hughes & Kettner Tube Factor
Various Ibanez TS9s
Weber MASS Attenuator
#13
Quote by darkarbiter7
The manual says it has dual bias controls.
Which apparently allow you to have two completely different tube types running at once.
Example: An EL34 and a KT66 running at once

Then go buy a bunch of different power tubes and a bias meter, and we'll never see you again. (You'll be busy tone testing every single octal tube ever known to man)
#14
^I mean, if I wanted to straight from two kt66's to two 6l6's, is it a straight replacement, no biasing required?
And yeah, once my wallet heals from buying the blues box, i'll try out a bunch of different tubes.
I do like JJ's though in the power section. Tungsols I like too, but I prefer them in the preamp stage.
I like how the JJ's are darker.
Call me Wes.
Gear:
Fender American Deluxe HSS Strat
Chicago Blues Box Roadhouse
Bad Cat Cougar 5
1957 Gibson GA-5
Ceriatone 18w TMB Combo
Hughes & Kettner Tube Factor
Various Ibanez TS9s
Weber MASS Attenuator
#15
You're better off biasing. Really. Please bias your amp when you change tubes. SYK's sarcastic comment was refering to the kind of question you keep asking.
#16
Actually, afaik Sovtek KT66s are just uber-ruggedised 6L6s in a KT66 shell. They don't sound like KT66s, they're pretty much just 6L6s. They're meant to sound really rather good actually.

If you like a pure vintage kind of tone though, I imagine Tung-Sol 5881s or Tung-Sol 6L6s (the more unconventional looking ones) would be very nice. Tung-Sol 12AX7 are very nice too.
The Laney Thread are big and clever. No exceptions.
#17
Yeah, i want to more for a vintage tone.
I could see how some people would like these sovteks, but they're a miss for me.
Call me Wes.
Gear:
Fender American Deluxe HSS Strat
Chicago Blues Box Roadhouse
Bad Cat Cougar 5
1957 Gibson GA-5
Ceriatone 18w TMB Combo
Hughes & Kettner Tube Factor
Various Ibanez TS9s
Weber MASS Attenuator
#18
Well remember that you don't know it's them that's causing the Treblyness in a 4x10 vintage-Fender style amp.

Like I say the Sovtek KT66s are meant to enjoy a good rep. What are the preamp tubes though? If they're Sovteks then I'd wage that replacing all the preamp tubes with Tung-Sols would smooth it out and remove a fair amount of ice-pick also.

But yeah if you really want a great vintage tone then Tung-Sol 5881s would be nice.
The Laney Thread are big and clever. No exceptions.
#19
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
Whaddaya mean bull? You have to use gloves when replacing Halogen lamps like your headlights in your car. They have a partial vacuum inside. So of course you can extrapolate that to tubes. They're made of glass and have a vacuum inside. Who cares if halogen bulbs get ridiculously hot compared to vacuum tubes. Glass is glass. Vacuum is vacuum. So if a halogen lamp will fail if handled with fingers, a vacuum tube must fail, too. And while we're on the subject...

Screw all that re-biasing bull****. Just put any damned tube in the amp that fits. Who cares if the characteristics of the tube are different and you'll have so much current in the output tubes that they redplate. Or if they'll run so cold that the distortion will make you puke. Knowing what conditions your amp is running at is for saps. Just slap the damned tubes in and if smoke comes out after playing for an hour or two, throw the amp away and buy a new one.

/sarcasm


You're confusing the hell out of me.
#20
Quote by MrCarrot
Well remember that you don't know it's them that's causing the Treblyness in a 4x10 vintage-Fender style amp.

Like I say the Sovtek KT66s are meant to enjoy a good rep. What are the preamp tubes though? If they're Sovteks then I'd wage that replacing all the preamp tubes with Tung-Sols would smooth it out and remove a fair amount of ice-pick also.

But yeah if you really want a great vintage tone then Tung-Sol 5881s would be nice.


The preamp tubes are JJ's, which I thought they were one of the darker preamp tubes?
I don't think it's the speakers either. The speakers are stock, but they're pretty good.
I think it's just the tubes.
Call me Wes.
Gear:
Fender American Deluxe HSS Strat
Chicago Blues Box Roadhouse
Bad Cat Cougar 5
1957 Gibson GA-5
Ceriatone 18w TMB Combo
Hughes & Kettner Tube Factor
Various Ibanez TS9s
Weber MASS Attenuator
#22
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
Whaddaya mean bull? You have to use gloves when replacing Halogen lamps like your headlights in your car. They have a partial vacuum inside. So of course you can extrapolate that to tubes. They're made of glass and have a vacuum inside. Who cares if halogen bulbs get ridiculously hot compared to vacuum tubes. Glass is glass. Vacuum is vacuum. So if a halogen lamp will fail if handled with fingers, a vacuum tube must fail, too. And while we're on the subject...

Screw all that re-biasing bull****. Just put any damned tube in the amp that fits. Who cares if the characteristics of the tube are different and you'll have so much current in the output tubes that they redplate. Or if they'll run so cold that the distortion will make you puke. Knowing what conditions your amp is running at is for saps. Just slap the damned tubes in and if smoke comes out after playing for an hour or two, throw the amp away and buy a new one.

/sarcasm


I was thinking the same thing I'm fairly certain that power tubes don't get anywhere hot enough for the oils from your fingers to cause a heat swell and break the glass. Got to love hearsay.