#1
alright I've got an old ibanez RX20 body and neck sitting around, and enough other pieces to get together a decent guitar. this is for a speech class, and bits and pieces of it will be filmed.

now, UG, i will be of course stripping it with a heat gun, sanding a bit to buff it up, one coat krylon white primer, a few coats of krylon baby blue color, then a few coats of rustoleum clear, then maybe one coat of shellac.

1) Enamel is safe and good for wood right?

2) the part with clear is where i get confused. should i still wet sand it to buff it up every coat?

3)after say, oh, maybe 3-5 coats of the clear hard enamel, and letting it dry for a few days, should i spray one medium heavy coat of shellac on top to give it a little shine? or not.,

4) MOST IMPORTANTLY - can all of this painting be dry in say, 2-3 weeks? like ready for parts and all?

thank you all, rock on.
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The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...
#2
1. should be
2. yes
3. no, buffing the clear will give shine
4. unless u screw up really, really bad, yes
5. guitar for speech class?! next time i get an italian project, its gonna be buildin' a guitar....
Gibson SG Faded
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Whenever I clean my guitars, my family wonders why it smells so good; I say that I exude a fresh citrus scent from hidden orifices.
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#3
well, its for a demonstration speech, and im actually somewhat motivated instead of sleeping/doing homework every day in that class

but yeah, i dont own a buffer, im assuming you mean the kind use for auto paint jobs, in which case i can find one. hopefully. thanks man!

any other opinions?
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...
#4
wet sanding also works and if u have a buffing wheel that attaches to a drill, that also works
Gibson SG Faded
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Quote by Øttər
Whenever I clean my guitars, my family wonders why it smells so good; I say that I exude a fresh citrus scent from hidden orifices.
They stopped asking
#5
okay, i'll have to find a buffing wheel for a drill then, that's easier. but my drill is from like 1940, lol, no joke, looks exactly like the kind from WWII propaganda posters, all bulky and solid steel. lol. hopefully i can get it up to enough RPM's.

thanks again man.
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...
#6
you wont need shellac if oyu use the right clear and buff it on a nice buff wheel or hand buffer. dont use the buffing wheel for the drill, its terrible. the drill part can leave soem serious cracks and scuffs in your finish. you dont need to finish sand after every coat, finish sand your final color coat, and your final clear coat. use 2400 sand paper, avoid edges of things.
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#7
thanks bro

i'll have to google a 'hand buffer'
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...
#8
a buff wheel is ideal. call local furntire/car body shops, im sure for 10 bucks they would gladly let you use theirs, just need some polishing compound and you are set, will make your guitar look like a factory finish
fight the power that be
#9
okay. my uncle used to paint cars, so I'm sure he'll have one. is their any set, like, iunno, grit for the buffer? or is it universal?
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...
#10
use a flannel buffer, a big one. stewmac polishing compound is the ****.
fight the power that be