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Bloodshed
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#1
Welcome to the Bugera Thread. I wanted to make a place where everyone could go, to talk to people who actually own and use these amps. Also, I wanted to make it so that Bugera owners could have a community so that they could interact with each other, and work together to get the best possible tone out of this amps. Feel free to post pics, recordings, cool settings you've found, tips/tricks, or great retube combinations. I will continually update this thread and also try and answer as many questions as possible

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6260



120 Watts running 5 12AX7 Preamp Tubes and 4 6L6 Power Tubes. Can be switched to EL34, KT77, KT66. 2 Channels, Clean/Crunch and Lead. Shared 3 band EQ.

Good for: Harder Rock, Metal (and all its subgenres), Hardcore, or anything calling for a tight crunch tone

Skip it: If you rarely use high gain sounds


6262



120 Watts running 6 12AX7 Preamp Tubes and 4 6L6 Power Tubes. Can be switched to EL34, KT77, KT66. 2 Channels, Clean/Crunch and Lead. Seperate 3 band EQ and Presence/Reverb controls for each channel. Slightly LESS gain than the 6260. The extra preamp tube is used for the clean channel

Good for: Harder Rock, Metal (and all its subgenres), Hardcore, or anything calling for a tight crunch tone

Skip it: If you rarely use high gain sounds


333/333XL



120 Watts running 4 12AX7 Preamp Tubes and 4 6L6 Power Tubes (333) or 4 EL34s (333xl). Either can be switched to 6L6, EL34, KT77, KT66. 3 Channels, Clean, Crunch and Lead. Seperate 3 band EQ for each channel. 333XL has built in Noise Gate. Slightly LESS gain than the 6260/6262, but more bottom heavy. More 3D and Hifi sounding than 626x series

Good for: Rock, Punk, Metal (and all its subgenres, though not as suitable for tight riffing), Hardcore, or anything calling for a thick slabby tone.

Skip It: If 3 channels is a bit much, or you are more or less a plug and play person as this amp requires more tweaking


1990



120-Watt 3 12AX7 Preamp Tubes and 4 5881 (6L6) Power Tubes, 2-channel (Clean, Lead). Power switch to select between pentode (120 watt) or triode (60 Watt) operation. Nice Marshall-esque roar.

Good For: Classic Rock, Rock, Punk, Metal (specifically more old school styles, not a modern metal machine here). Some Hardcore styles.

Skip It: If you need tight, or more bottom heavy crunch. Clean channel is not this amps strong point either.


1960



150 watt (supposedly), 3 12AX7 Preamp Tubes and 4 EL34 Power Tubes. 2 Channel, 4 input design, meaning you can bridge the inputs to get more crunch. No master volume so this thing has to be balls loud to get crunch.

Good For. Classic Rock, some hard rock, Punk, Classic Metal.

Skip It: If you need channel switching, reverb, or low volume crunch tone. This thing is loud!


V22



22 Watt, 3 12AX7 Preamp Tubes and 2 EL84 power tubes. 2 Channel with Pentode/ Triode switch. Smooth crunch but can get nice bite too. Probably my personal fave of the Bugera line. RICH power tube breakup

Good For: Rock, Blues, Jazz, Punk, or my personal brand of Post Hardcore ;P. Perfect in the studio or at home, yet load enough for big gigs (mic'd of course)

Skip It: If you need br00t4l bottom end, tight crunch, or loads of preamp gain.


V55



55 Watt, 3 12AX7 Preamp Tubes and 2 6L6 power tubes. 2 Channel with Pentode/ Triode switch. Smooth crunch but can get nice bite too. RICH power tube breakup, but much more clean headroom than the V22

Good For: Rock, Blues, Jazz, Punk, or my personal brand of Post Hardcore ;P.

Skip It: If you need br00t4l bottom end, tight crunch, or loads of preamp gain.

Bias Info

Plate V =480V
6L6 @ 30W dissipation
Set @ 70% = 21W
IA = 43.75 mA


FAQ:

Q: How reliable are Bugera Amps?

A: This is a rather frequent question. I will give my take on it. The First run Bugeras had one major design flaw. Rather than hardwire the transformer, Bugera used a plastic snap in clip. Wehn these got hot, they could arc and burn up, turning your new amp into a 100 watt paperweight. However, it was an easy problem to fix and Bugera addressed it. I have not seen any issues with new run Bugeras so it is my view that the new Bugeras are quite reliable. My 6260 has been on 5 multi state tours ranging from 2-weeks to over a month, recorded 2 albums and has done hundreds of smaller gigs. It has performed faithfully, and the infamous clip went out after 1 1/2 years. I fixed it and it still works after nearly 2 years of hard work. In my experience my I have had much less trouble with my 6260 than I have ever had with most of the other amps that I have owned. An judging by the experience of most of the members of the Bugera Militia, my experience has not been unique.

Q: How do I bias my Bugera?

A: Go here Biasing my Bugera or just PM either me or BeerChurch. Its easy


Q: My transformer clip went out, what do I do?

A: BeerChurch posted a nice instructional blog, with pics. Follow these instructions


Q: I play [insert genre here] music, which Bugera will work for me?

A: See the breakdown of the models above, silly walnut head. Still don't know, just PM either me, BeerChurch or KurtCobain77


Q: Will my Bugera cook for me and do my laundry?

A: Only if you ask nice and take it to a lobster dinner


Q: Will my Bugera get me the wimmens?

A: Once you wow them with your tube tone, they'll be dropping panties all over the place.


If I missed your FAQs, PM me and I will add them

Clips of the 6260-212 and the V22 can be heard on my UG profile
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Last edited by Bloodshed at Mar 17, 2011,
jimmy666page666
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#2
I hear people saying there not reliable..is this true ?? I don't want to get something thats a peice and is going to break.
Bloodshed
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#3
Well, to be honest, I have heard one instance of a blown cap on HC, but the owner said it was his fault. A couple others have had fuses blow which typically means that a tube has gone. The thing is they haven't been out long enough to say anything about reliability. Plus, I do know that their warranty program is amazing, and so is customer service.
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#4
From the demos i've heard i like there cleans, but im still in debate about there gain channel. Now if they copy Bogner anytime soon i might jump on one lol
Bloodshed
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#6
I've seen quite a few so far, and a LOT of people considering buying them
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Bloodshed
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#8
They actually aren't terrible. I still wanna change out for Eminence eventually, but only after the warranty runs out. It keeps up with my other guitarist's Mesa Solo 50 running Vintage 30's. After you run it at moderate to high volume and the speaker break in a bit they warm up a bit. You can also run a cab with it too if you wanted to move some more air
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#9
Quote by IbanezPsycho
From the demos i've heard i like there cleans, but im still in debate about there gain channel. Now if they copy Bogner anytime soon i might jump on one lol


hey man, i hate to be "that guy", but werent you just bashing bugera a few weeks ago? or did you have a change of heart? lol
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#10
I'm half a Bugera user.
I use a Behringer cabinet with Bugera speakers, and to be honest; they don't cut it.
Very buzzy and what not.
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#11
A buddy of mine just got his bugera in like 2 days ago. He loves it ofcourse, hes a teenager with a new all tube amp. ive been around the block, playing wise, on quite a lot of amps, yet i still consider myself an amp-tard. The tone was alright. Its better than the price tag, but i still wouldn't buy one. i do hear alot of unreliability, but its new, so there will be problems. inevitable.
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Bloodshed
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#12
If it helps, I gave a rundown of some other amps I've owned in the past, one of them was a 50 watt JCM800. I gotta say, this thing is pretty amazing if you know how to use it. To Moe, what kind of head is on top of that cab?

To Guitarzan, which Bugera did he get, and was it a stack or combo?
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#13
he got a combo 6262 or something along those numbers. its loud, but thats aboutttt it.
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#14


Im running a Bugera 6262 head through a Marshall 1960A cab.

Sounds pretty good to me. I generally dont get a chance to turn it up past about 3, even during band practice. I can imagine it would sound a lot better if i cranked it up more. If they made a lower wattage version, I would've been all over it.
a guy told me that the tremolo bar was called the "distortionator"
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#15
You could take it to a tech and have it modded for either a power soak, or a half power mod. The half power mod is simple, you just pull the two outer or inner tubes, and have the fuse changed. Your other option is an attenuator.

I did notice that the combo starts to open up sooner
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#16
Quote by Bloodshed
To Moe, what kind of head is on top of that cab?


Randall RM100m.
Bloodshed
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#17
Wow, yeah a Behringer cab wont nearly do that amp justice. In Bugera's defense, their speakers on their own stuff are better than the ones in Behringer cabs. Sell it and get an Avatar 2x12.

I think I'm gonna put one under my combo
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#18
Quote by Bloodshed
Wow, yeah a Behringer cab wont nearly do that amp justice. In Bugera's defense, their speakers on their own stuff are better than the ones in Behringer cabs. Sell it and get an Avatar 2x12.

I think I'm gonna put one under my combo


Nah no thanks.
Right now I'm heading for the Randall Ra412xc cabinet. Mainly because they have mic eliminators and what not.
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#19
I have a 333xl head.

Pretty good, I've only used the rehearsal room's JCM900, JCM800 and obviously, the 333xl kicks it. (rehearsal room modded those so they're only one the 1 channel)

The Reverb for it sounds too watery in my opinion, I like reverb that sounds like a slight echo in a hall.

I find that the noisegate and the XL button doesn't do much, but the HIGH GAIN/LOW GAIN inputs are fantastic, really helps.

Soundwise, 3 channels, Lead is the only one i use thats metal enough, crunch is slight distortion sounds thin, and clean, well, i don;t use it enough to compare it to anything.

My first tube amp, my first head, overall happy with it, but i just haven't found the right settings to get it as ballsy as my mates 6505+.

That being said, the 6262 didn't compare to the 333xl. Too thin.
Bloodshed
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#20
Sounds cool.

I never found one to try yet. But i think it seems like the 333 series is more modern tonally, while the 6260/6262 are more vintage on steriods.

Does that seem accurate.

As for reverb, go Holy Grail....um noise gate, HUSH Super C
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#21
I am going to post a response I just got from Bob at Eurotubes about the retube options for the Bugera and what they can give. He definitely knows his stuff, and took a lot of time to be helpful


From Me:

My friend Jared Greene has been ordering tubes from you for a while and I have seen that you have always been fast, friendly, and very responsive. I am wanting to retube my Bugera 6260 combo amp, but I'm still trying to figure out what kind of tubes to put in it. If you haven't played one yet, its set up very similarly to a Peavey 5150. However, there are a couple changes. This amp has switchable bias, to where it can run EL34 or 6L6 type tubes. It also has a bias adjustment right on chassis, kinda like a Peavey XXX. I'm trying to figure out how to polish up the sound and smooth it out from the sound offered by the factory Sovteks. Here is what I'm hoping to acheive....I want to try to tame the preamp gain a little so that it drops some of the fizz and gives me a little more clean headroom. Then I want to get smoother, warmer highs and extended low end range, but I still wanna keep the cleans, because this amp offers very nice cleans (much nicer than the 5150 that I compared it to. I also tend to like an aggressive vintage type sound if that helps. I usually use OD pedals and a Compressor to add a bit of boost to the front end. The main power amp tubes I had been looking at were 6L6s and KT77's . I'm not really sure what will work better. So, I was hoping you could help set me on the right path. I know you know your stuff, and a lot of guys have recommended your help.


From Bob:

Yes I am familiar with these, the Bugera 6260 amps can use either a quad of 6L6's or EL34's, and five 12AX7's. Here is a brief description of the options.

The standard EL34 is just like the old European EL34's. These are a bit soft with a shallower low end and a smooth breakup with a nice crunch, a typical high quality EL34.

The JJ E34L's provide a deeper low end and are more aggressive and punchy than an EL34. The E34L is tighter with slightly more headroom and power with a more aggressive crunch, a very articulate British tone.

The JJ KT77 is tighter than an EL34 and they have a very deep low end extension with a nice sizzle in the top end that is not brittle. The clean tone is very fat and full and the crunch has more of a chunk to it and it's very punchy and more aggressive than a standard EL34, a great tube for rhythm and solo work.

So for a comparison the JJ 6L6GC's have about the same low end as the KT77's but are a cleaner tube with a later breakup and they are not as mid range heavy. More of a traditional Fender type tone. The 6L6GC's are a good way to go if you scoop your mids and these are a great tube for heavy rhythm and melodic drop tuned Metal.

These are adjustable bias amps and need to be biased! The most accurate way of doing this is using a bias probe under one of the power tubes. There are short bias probes available on Ebay and from several other sources including our own Eurotubes bias probe for 25.00 so it's a VERY cheap tool, very accurate and very easy to use.

We have been asked to do a bias video on these amps but it is so simple that we refer them to watching the Generic bias video we did on an 800 Marshall. The procedure is the same but when using a short bias probe you don't even have to take the amp out of the chassis. You ca see the video here, http://www.eurotubes.com/euro-Generic-Bias.htm You don't need to measure the plate voltage you can simply bias EL34's, KT77's or 6L6's between 34 to 40mA. Most players like them right at 36 to 38mA. The test points on the amp appear to be measuring a total plate current draw in Millivolts but we have found that it’s not very accurate.

For the front end we usually use the JJ ECC83S's which sound very fat and full. I would use a balanced ECC83S in the phase splitter hole which is the preamp tube that's closest to the power tubes ( the one on the left when looking at the back of the amp ). This will eliminate any dead spots due to phase cancellation.

We’ve seen these come in with a mix of sovtek and chinese pre’s which arte pretty harsh and fuzzy so just changing to the JJ ECC83S’s with give you a warmer tone with less fuzz and better definition.

Using the Gold Pin JJ tubes would also be an option if you want the best of the best. The main difference with them is that they are smoother in the top end and a little richer in the mids. They are however expensive, the ECC83S standard Gold Pin tubes run 19.50 and the balanced ECC83S Gold Pin tubes run 22.00



So for what you’re looking for I would probably use a gold pin ECC83S in V1 which will get a great clean tone with a nice sparkle. You could drop down to an ECC81 for more headroom but this will sound a little sterol compared to the ECC83S. I think you would like the ECC83S’s in the rest of the positions but if you want to experiment with lowering the gain in the drive channels then you can use an ECC832 in V2 or V3 which will drop the gain about 40%. These run 12.00 each.
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#22
Awesome thread! Lots of good info so far! I am getting the 6262 head. It will be arriving next week. I also purchased the Bugera 4X12 cab for a quick fix. I will buy a Vader or Earcandy cab when I can afford it a few months down the line. This stock set up will have to do for now. I am excited I must admit. I haven't owned a tube amp for a long time.
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#23
You might be able to pick up an Avatar cab for a reasonable price.....I have run mine through an Avatar Cab with V30s and it sounds awesome
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#24
I think I have my heart set on a Vader cab. Pricey but SWEET!
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#25
Good thread idea. I really like what I've heard from Bugera thus far, looking forward to trying on myself.
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#26
I'm planning on getting a 333XL head, and i was just wondering how much they weigh approximately?
(trying to work out shipping)
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Bloodshed
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#28
Vader cabs are sick! Are you thinking 2x12?
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#29
Oh no, I'm getting the Vader 4X12 cab. For bedroom practice too it that's not hilarious and somewhat stupid lol.
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#30
I used to play 4x12s all the time, until my travel for gigs got longer and longer. Now, I want something that fits well in a car with band mates gear. Plus loading a 4x12 in and out....well it'll make you strong, but if you start traveling you'll hate it.
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#31
Quote by henza_x



I find that the noisegate and the XL button doesn't do much, but the HIGH GAIN/LOW GAIN inputs are fantastic, really helps.

My first tube amp, my first head, overall happy with it, but i just haven't found the right settings to get it as ballsy as my mates 6505+.



It just goes to go how subjective tone is. The 333XL sounds like an amp twice its price, and I found the XL switch to really be useful for that ultra-saturated metal sound. Noise gate isn't the best, but it does remove a fair amount of hiss with no noticeable tonal degradation.

My "new" 5150 is better at some things, but the 333xl sounded better. but I would advise any buyer to really test it hard during the "return period". Mine worked great for almost a month and then died after I left it on Standby for an hour or so.
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Bloodshed
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#32
The "death" could've been a tube going, thus tripping the fuse. These amps need a good set of tubes to get the most from them.

The noise gate is like the built in noise gate on the XXX. It only removes a marginal amount of noise, and is pretty much just enough to keep the amp from going psycho.

Why was it necessary to leave your amp on stand by for an hour? Thats unnecessary tube burning

EDIT: Sorry, if i sound like a jerk, I'm not trying to com across as one. I'm really actually quite cuddly
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#33
Quote by TheEsupremacy
47lbs US. 21.5 kg. Hope that helps!





also, does anyone know how much an average 2x12 cab would weigh?
A metal band?
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Orange Tiny Terror >
LzR Engineering 212 cab

My other amp can run Crysis
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#35
Looking for a good tube amp for metal/metalcore/post hardcore. I liked the sound of the Peavey JSX i tried, but it was a lot of money =*(
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#36
Quote by TheEsupremacy
Right around 25-30 lbs US. 12.5kg


Looks like i'll have to order them seperately then.

I suppose I could build the cab, might save a bit of cash and ill be able to use good speakers.

Do vintage 30's go well with the 333xl for metal?
A metal band?
Gear:
A Guitar with an LFR > Korg Pitchblack > Behringer EQ > Hardwire CM-2 Overdrive Boss SD-1 > Hardwire CR-7 Chorus>
Orange Tiny Terror >
LzR Engineering 212 cab

My other amp can run Crysis
stigma15
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#37
Quote by Bloodshed
The "death" could've been a tube going, thus tripping the fuse. These amps need a good set of tubes to get the most from them.

The noise gate is like the built in noise gate on the XXX. It only removes a marginal amount of noise, and is pretty much just enough to keep the amp from going psycho.

Why was it necessary to leave your amp on stand by for an hour? Thats unnecessary tube burning

EDIT: Sorry, if i sound like a jerk, I'm not trying to com across as one. I'm really actually quite cuddly


Well, I changed the fuse and tubes still no glowy. It wasn't 'necessary" to leave it on Standby, but it really shouldn't hurt the amp. And the tubes had maybe 10 hours on them max. Believe me, it wasn't my fault.

I hope everyone else's works forever and I would recommend the amp. I am just saying someone wouldn't want it to go down out of the 30-day return period and have to wait to have it serviced.
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#38
I must admit, I sometimes worry about the long term life of my upcoming Bugera 6262 but my ultimate goal is to get a REAL tube amp in a year or so, a mesa, or marshall. I had a JCM 900 19 years ago I sure with I still had.
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#39
Looking for a good tube amp for metal/metalcore/post hardcore. Suggestions?
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Please, recommend me any bands or artists of any genre or medium. Paintings, poets, writers, books, paintings, songs, musicians.

Anything, anything at all. Please.
Bloodshed
UG's Delay Wh0re
Join date: Aug 2004
1,134 IQ
#40
Bugera 6260...you can't go wrong my friend. Like I said in your other thread, the 6260 is great for hardcore/post hardcore etc. But I also use it for other stuff as well
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