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#1
can anyone teach me how to change pups?
it's my first time, but i can provide further information if needed.
guitar's an ibanez s5470 with H-S-H config.
changing to dimarzio evolutions (neck & bridge) and a HS-2 (single).
wiring diagrams from ibanez.com and dimarzio.com don't seem to help much.
your help is very much appreciated.
#2
get a luthier to do it evoloutions are expensive and i wouldnt want you to mess them up
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#3
If its passive one's and you're changing to another pair of passive, it should be real easy. Just unsolder/remove the old ones and solder the new ones onto the old cables...?
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#4
Quote by Gayfish
If its passive one's and you're changing to another pair of passive, it should be real easy. Just unsolder/remove the old ones and solder the new ones onto the old cables...?

the number of wires are different on the HS-2. though i'm sure you don't connect all of them.

but i still don't know how the original pups wires connect (which is earth? which is etc...)

i got the leaflet that comes with the new humbuckers, which says you gotta tape 2 of 5 wires from the humbucker (meaning not soldering). but the original humbuckers have all 5 soldered.
i'm confused now.

all wiring diagrams available online are different from my guitar's diagram. what should i do?
Last edited by necrophilic at Apr 27, 2008,
#5
help!
and look at this. this is a part of the wiring diagram of ibanez jem7v. why are there 2 pup switches?
Last edited by necrophilic at Apr 27, 2008,
#7
Quote by forsaknazrael
Could you post the whole diagram?

And as for the wiring coloring code, that should be on the leaflet.
If not, guitarelectronics.com has color codes.

The original wiring has all 5 soldered because it's using auto coil splits and stuff. Post the diagram.

there you go.
the leaflet says, for humbuckers,
red=hot
black+white=tape with vinyl so that no contact is made
green="cold"
naked=earth
i'm translating from japanese so "cold" MIGHT be wrong.
thanks for replying by the way.

the pics blur. but you can find the diagram through this.
ibanez.com usa support wiring diagrams guitar 2007 jem7v
#8
I believe what they are doing is showing both sides of the switch in the diagram, with neck - > bridge ect. as orientation points.
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#9
Next time, for the sake of people going out of their to help ya out, I'd recommend uploading the image on to Imageshack or Photobucket, for our convenience. This way, it won't be resized retarded-like.

So that's the wiring style you WANT, right?

Are your pickups's wires exactly the same color code as your new ones?
If so, just make a direct replacement. The leaflet tells you to twist the black and white and solder them together and then taper them off (you SHOULD solder them. Otherwise, it's not a reliable connection.) because that's how a humbucker's coils are normally wired. However, your guitar has coil splits.

Also, do you have a multimeter?
#10
Quote by necrophilic
black+white=tape with vinyl so that no contact is made

I don't mean to thread jack but when it says to tape them off does that mean tape each one off by itself or tape them off together so nothing else touches them? Sorry if that was a bit unclear but thats they best way I could think to word it.
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#11
Quote by a4lrocker
I don't mean to thread jack but when it says to tape them off does that mean tape each one off by itself or tape them off together so nothing else touches them? Sorry if that was a bit unclear but thats they best way I could think to word it.

Read here:
Quote by forsaknazrael
The leaflet tells you to twist the black and white and solder them together and then taper them off (you SHOULD solder them. Otherwise, it's not a reliable connection.) because that's how a humbucker's coils are normally wired.

#12
Wow...I'm not sure how I missed that. Sorry. Thanks a lot though.
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alright, off topic but how do i make forum posts



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#13
Quote by forsaknazrael
Next time, for the sake of people going out of their to help ya out, I'd recommend uploading the image on to Imageshack or Photobucket, for our convenience. This way, it won't be resized retarded-like.

So that's the wiring style you WANT, right?

Are your pickups's wires exactly the same color code as your new ones?
If so, just make a direct replacement. The leaflet tells you to twist the black and white and solder them together and then taper them off (you SHOULD solder them. Otherwise, it's not a reliable connection.) because that's how a humbucker's coils are normally wired. However, your guitar has coil splits.

Also, do you have a multimeter?

sorry for the inconvenience.

yes, that's the wiring that i want. i'm basically copying a jem.

i don't know if the stock pickups share the same color code as the new ones.

(i think earlier i said that those stock pickups are designed by dimarzio. my mistake. mailed dimarzio's tech support last night and got a reply today. amazing customer support! they also sent me a wiring diagram of ibanez rg1550/rg1570 that fits my case. the pickup selector has the same design.)

i don't have a multimeter, but i can borrow from my professor i think. may i ask what do i need it for?

i still don't understand one thing. the three "legs" of potentiometers. does it matter which "leg" you choose to solder on?

the diagram i got from dimarzio shows that "to bridge ground" is connected to volume pot. but my guitar has it connected to tone pot. how should i rewire (if i have to)?

related to middle pickup, what do HS and VV mean?
Last edited by necrophilic at Apr 28, 2008,
#14
Well...I don't know what VV means...But HS...I'm not exactly sure, since you're using probably using it out of context. People often use HSH as an abbreviation for Humbucker-Single-Humbucker, in terms of pickup configuration lingo.

As for potentiometers...yes, of course it matters! That's why it shows you which ones to solder to in diagrams.

I asked about a multimeter, because it would help you identify which wires are connected to which coils of the pickup.

Post of the diagram them sent you?

And no problem about the inconvenience. I went and looked myself, but putting it up directly on here encourages other uses here to help.
#15
Quote by forsaknazrael
Well...I don't know what VV means...But HS...I'm not exactly sure, since you're using probably using it out of context. People often use HSH as an abbreviation for Humbucker-Single-Humbucker, in terms of pickup configuration lingo.

As for potentiometers...yes, of course it matters! That's why it shows you which ones to solder to in diagrams.

I asked about a multimeter, because it would help you identify which wires are connected to which coils of the pickup.

Post of the diagram them sent you?

And no problem about the inconvenience. I went and looked myself, but putting it up directly on here encourages other uses here to help.

i have so much to learn.

and here's the link. S5470, JEM7, and RG1550/RG1570 wiring diagrams.
http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/necrophilic/

why is my guitar's bridge grounding connected to the tone pot instead of the volume?

and what are the differences between 500K-A, 500K-B, 500K-W, 500K-D pots?
#16
HS or VV is just the name of the pickup. Maybe HS = Hot Single and VV = Virtual Vintage. Just guessing

Quote by necrophilic
why is my guitar's bridge grounding connected to the tone pot instead of the volume?
Shorter run, less congestion. The cases of the volume and tone pots are connected together. So you can connect to either one.

Quote by necrophilic
and what are the differences between 500K-A, 500K-B, 500K-W, 500K-D pots?
The suffix indicates the taper. A is audio, B is linear. I dunno about W or D.
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#17
Oh, I see, nevermind. HS-2 is just the model name of your middle pickup. Dunno what it stands for.
Dimarzio.com probably has an explanation.

For guitar's circuits, all you really need to know about are A500K and B500K. A500K is a method of labeling a logarithmic or audio taper type of potentiometer. B500K is a linear taper. The different kind of taper basically, in the case of a guitar circuit, just determines the way that a pot puts frequencies to ground.

About your tone pot...Really, ground wires can be soldered to any pot in your guitar. In addition, unless you've got some kind of foil or copper foil shielding (Which I recommend you do, as it will noticeable reduce the hum and overall noise level of your guitar...Check out guitarnuts.com) in which the pots would be grounded by the shielding, the pot's metal casings need to be grounded to.
In a non-shielded circuit, it's a good practice to solder all of your ground wires to one point, whichever pot you might choose. Then the pot's should be connected together, so the metal casings are all grounded.

Okay, now that I can clearly see your diagrams....

According to the JEM diagram you showed me...
Just use this color code, and swap it out with the Evo's...
Dimarzio ------------ Your Guitar's old pickups
Black + White = Red + White
Red = Green
Green = Orange

and for the single coil..
Black = Yellow
Red = Black


That SHOULD do it.
#18
Quote by forsaknazrael
The different kind of taper basically, in the case of a guitar circuit, just determines the way that a pot puts frequencies to ground.
That's not right. The taper means what the resistance is at different parts of the rotation. A linear taper has equal resistance change throughout the rotation. Put it in the middle of the rotation and you measure half the total resistance from the wiper to the CCW end and half from wiper to CW.

An audio taper when set to the middle of it's rotation will have 10% of the total resistance from wiper to CCW and 90% from wiper to CW. There are some audio tapers that use 30% / 70%
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#19
Quote by forsaknazrael
For guitar's circuits, all you really need to know about are A500K and B500K. A500K is a method of labeling a logarithmic or audio taper type of potentiometer. B500K is a linear taper. The different kind of taper basically, in the case of a guitar circuit, just determines the way that a pot puts frequencies to ground.

About your tone pot...Really, ground wires can be soldered to any pot in your guitar. In addition, unless you've got some kind of foil or copper foil shielding (Which I recommend you do, as it will noticeable reduce the hum and overall noise level of your guitar...Check out guitarnuts.com) in which the pots would be grounded by the shielding, the pot's metal casings need to be grounded to.
In a non-shielded circuit, it's a good practice to solder all of your ground wires to one point, whichever pot you might choose. Then the pot's should be connected together, so the metal casings are all grounded.

Okay, now that I can clearly see your diagrams....

According to the JEM diagram you showed me...
Just use this color code, and swap it out with the Evo's...
Dimarzio ------------ Your Guitar's old pickups
Black + White = Red + White
Red = Green
Green = Orange

and for the single coil..
Black = Yellow
Red = Black


That SHOULD do it.

the shielding job sounds a bit difficult for my "level" but i'll keep that in mind and try it out after doing the wiring.
by the way, maybe i'm wrong here but i've seen a guitar with foil taped behind the wiring compartment cover. what principle/use does that possess?

i'll do the soldering tomorrow but it's publlic holiday so maybe the day after that when i've gathered all the trinkets that i need and do a bit of practice. so maybe i'll post a bit later.

for the humbuckers, you mentioned that all 5 wires were soldered because of a certain "auto coil tap"? or was it "coil split"? what effect does have? should i do the same for my new pickups?

and do i need to change any components, like pots/capacitors?

this is an excerpt i got from dimarzio's FAQ.
"I want to emulate the Vai pickup combination. What kind of single coil should I use?
Evolution® and JEM single-coils are only available on the Ibanez JEM and are not sold through retail channels. You can achieve a similar result by wiring an HS-2™ for single-coil operation only: black wire hot, red and bare wires ground, green and white not connected."
so is it...
and for the single coil..
Black = Yellow
Red + Bare wire = Black
Last edited by necrophilic at Apr 28, 2008,
#20
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
That's not right. The taper means what the resistance is at different parts of the rotation. A linear taper has equal resistance change throughout the rotation. Put it in the middle of the rotation and you measure half the total resistance from the wiper to the CCW end and half from wiper to CW.

An audio taper when set to the middle of it's rotation will have 10% of the total resistance from wiper to CCW and 90% from wiper to CW. There are some audio tapers that use 30% / 70%

Ah, sorry. Guess I explained it wrong. I basically meant that. An audio taper's path to dumping the signal to ground is different than a linear taper's. A linear pot's path is linear, and the audio pot has a logarithmic curve to it.

Quote by necrophilic
the shielding job sounds a bit difficult for my "level" but i'll keep that in mind and try it out after doing the wiring.
by the way, maybe i'm wrong here but i've seen a guitar with foil taped behind the wiring compartment cover. what principle/use does that possess?

i'll do the soldering tomorrow but it's publlic holiday so maybe the day after that when i've gathered all the trinkets that i need and do a bit of practice. so maybe i'll post a bit later.

for the humbuckers, you mentioned that all 5 wires were soldered because of a certain "auto coil tap"? or was it "coil split"? what effect does have? should i do the same for my new pickups?

and do i need to change any components, like pots/capacitors?

this is an excerpt i got from dimarzio's FAQ.
"I want to emulate the Vai pickup combination. What kind of single coil should I use?
Evolution® and JEM single-coils are only available on the Ibanez JEM and are not sold through retail channels. You can achieve a similar result by wiring an HS-2™ for single-coil operation only: black wire hot, red and bare wires ground, green and white not connected."
so is it...
and for the single coil..
Black = Yellow
Red + Bare wire = Black

Is there a bare wire on the single coil? Yeah, the bare would go to ground, too.

If you wire it like your guitar was, you should be fine. It's already wired for an auto-split.

And no, you should be fine with your current electronics.
#21
Quote by forsaknazrael
If you wire it like your guitar was, you should be fine. It's already wired for an auto-split.

what's auto-split?
forgot to mention, there are 5 wires coming through the evo's. you only mentioned 4.
can you tell me where the bare wire should be connected to?
Last edited by necrophilic at Apr 28, 2008,
#23
Quote by forsaknazrael
The bare wire goes to ground as well, sorry.

Auto-splits are just when you have it in the 2 and 4 positions, it splits the humbucker for hum cancelling.

ok thanks.
just for confirmation though...


humbuckers

dimarzio = stock
black+white = red+white(connected to pu switch)
red(hot) = green(connected to pu switch)
green(cold) = orange(actually bare, connected to volume pot)
bare(earth) = black(connected to pu switch)


singles

dimarzio = stock
black = yellow(connected to pu switch)
red+bare = black(connected to tone pot)


is this ok?
Last edited by necrophilic at Apr 28, 2008,
#25
probably been said but check out seymour duncans site thats how I wire all my pups, doesnt matter which pickups you get they all work the same (farady's law for changing magnetic fields to produce a current anyone?), except some have some extra wires for coil splitting and such...

but taking it to a luthier is a waste of money. I mean if your getting into guitar and your going to spend thousands (if not tens?) of dollars you should learn how to do the soldering your self. Just practice a bit :P
-------------------------------
Faded Gibson SG Special - Black ice mod
Seymour Duncan SH-5 in bridge
B-52 AT 112
Ted Weber Mass100 attenuator
EHX Small Clone
EHX Metal Muff
DIY Modded tubescreamer
Dunlop 535Q Wah
Wax Potting tutorial
#26
Quote by forsaknazrael
Well, remember, they're connected to the tone pot because they're going to ground.
There has to be a ground connection from the output jack connected to the same pot.

And all grounds should all be soldered to one point. That bare should be going to ground, too.

http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn103/necrophilic/?action=view&current=wiringdiagramdone2.jpg
it will look like this if i proceed by just swapping the wires.
should i proceed?

forgot to add...

singles

dimarzio = stock
black(hot) = yellow(connected to pu switch)
red+bare(ground) = black(connected to tone pot)

you mentioned that dimarzio green (cold) should be swapped with stock bare.
stock bare is connected to volume pot, making it earth wire right?
can you explain?
Last edited by necrophilic at Apr 28, 2008,
#27
Quote by ICANSEEYOU7687
probably been said but check out seymour duncans site thats how I wire all my pups, doesnt matter which pickups you get they all work the same (farady's law for changing magnetic fields to produce a current anyone?), except some have some extra wires for coil splitting and such...

but taking it to a luthier is a waste of money. I mean if your getting into guitar and your going to spend thousands (if not tens?) of dollars you should learn how to do the soldering your self. Just practice a bit :P
No.

1 - The colour codes on Seymour Duncans wiring is different from diMarzio. Guaranteed failure.

2 - Seymour Duncan does not have diagrams using Ibanez 5-way switches. Their diagrams use standard Fender 5-way switches and a few diagrams use 5-way superswitches.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#28
so... your still going to have a ground and a hot wire... regardless of the codes.

And yeah the switch might be wired differently but all the pots and caps can still be wired exactly the same
-------------------------------
Faded Gibson SG Special - Black ice mod
Seymour Duncan SH-5 in bridge
B-52 AT 112
Ted Weber Mass100 attenuator
EHX Small Clone
EHX Metal Muff
DIY Modded tubescreamer
Dunlop 535Q Wah
Wax Potting tutorial
#29
Quote by ICANSEEYOU7687
so... your still going to have a ground and a hot wire... regardless of the codes.

And yeah the switch might be wired differently but all the pots and caps can still be wired exactly the same
Wake up and smell the coffee, man. The switches don't even LOOK the same. They already have access to the Ibanez drawings with Ibanez switches. The links are in this thread. You're suggesting that they take a giant leap backward and use Seymour Duncan drawings that have more things wrong for this application than they have right.

Please read the thread, before posting useless advice.
Meadows
Quote by Jackal58
I release my inner liberal every morning when I take a shit.
Quote by SK8RDUDE411
I wont be like those jerks who dedicate their beliefs to logic and reaosn.
#32
Quote by forsaknazrael
I would generally remove the old solder. Use desoldering braid. Also you do is place the desolder braid on the old solder, and heat it up with the iron. It's going to get very hot, obviously...

Buy 60/40 solder.
Here's a guide on soldering:
http://geofex.com/Article_Folders/how_to_solder.htm

started out 2 hours ago.
the old solder on the pu selector was fine.
but i couldn't get the solder off from the pots, like a tough stain.
i had to cut off the edges of the wires.
is it ok to leave it just like that?
i wonder if i toasted my potentiometers...
#33
at FAQ dimarzio.com they said for the single coil,
black is hot
red and bare is earth
and
green and white not connected
what does it mean by not connected?
tape them together? separately?
solder them together then tape them?
#35
done everything.
i don't know how to explain it.
the tone knob has somehow turned into a volume knob.
i can't get a signal into the tuner unless i dial in the tone knob.
when plugged into the amp, same.
no sound unless i dial the tone knob.

what have i done wrong?
#37
Quote by forsaknazrael
Well, you obviously didn't follow the diagram...pictures, or something?

i think i did everything fine...
the sound is ok i can play stuff, it's just the tone knob.
what pictures do you want to see?
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