Page 1 of 15
#1
Right, this is the thread for my actual build. It's my first build, and the planning crap is here: https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=820688

The specs:
RR24/ESP Alexi hybrid body,
Alder wings,
Mahogany neck-through,
Black-bound ebony fretboard (16" radius),
25.5" scale,
String through with recessed Tune-o-Matic,
EMG 85, with single volume control,
Scarfed ESP-style headstock.
Zero degree neck angle,
42mm graphite nut,
Dot MOP inlays (maybe something special at the 12th, but probably not),
Schaller straplocks,
Wilkinson Rotomatic 6-in-line mini tuners,
Jumbo fretwire.

Edit: I'll be running the EMG 85 at 18V, with two battery boxes.
Edit2: 13 degree headstock scarf joint.. and I'm going to get the spraying done locally - I don't trust myself with paint, after previous sessions.

I think that's about it!

Mock-up:


Plans:


Parts:




My new toy:
Last edited by -MintSauce- at Jun 1, 2008,
#5
nice design, i love the ferrules (Y)

but i see no headstock angle ? are you going for a strat type thing?

also where did you get your plan?
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#6
Quote by admbwr
nice design, i love the ferrules (Y)

but i see no headstock angle ? are you going for a strat type thing?

also where did you get your plan?


I'm just doing the 'you can't lose if you use 13 degrees' thing.. although I'll still manage to **** it up!

The plan is a product of my sweat and tears - I've been working on it during breaks from coursework for a while now, and my brother kindly printed it on a plotter at work. Actually, that reminds me, I need to ask politely for him to print the new version. I used the old one just to lay the parts out.

#7
^ awsome man, i love an origional plan.

what do you mean by ' you can't lose with 13 degrees' ?
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#8
Quote by admbwr
^ awsome man, i love an origional plan.

what do you mean by ' you can't lose with 13 degrees' ?


Everywhere I look, people are using 13 degree headstock angles. I guess it gives a good trade-off between strength, string pull-off and string tension, but I don't know for sure.

Also, I think think that it looks good!


Edit: I still used an RR24 as the base, then stole good features from the Alexi (the Japanese model, not the USA) - like the lower wing cut, for high fret access, and the curved heel. I'll probably end up scalloping frets 20-24 too.
Last edited by -MintSauce- at May 2, 2008,
#10
Quote by XibanezedgeX
Sounds awsome! Just one question why, 18v instead of 9v? I havn't done much research on active pickups, whats the advantage? More gain?


It doesn't give more gain really, but it gives you more headroom, so you can drive your amp harder before it distorts. It's not a HUGE difference - it gives distorted passages a slightly more organic tone, and actually gives you useable cleans.
#12
how deep are you going to have to recess the t-o-m if you are having no neck angle?

it looks a promising guitar
#13
I wouldn't paint the neck, natural satin feels (and looks, in my opinion) much nicer.

And why dot inlays?
#14
Quote by nickhender
how deep are you going to have to recess the t-o-m if you are having no neck angle?

it looks a promising guitar


I'm going to aim for 7mm, to give me enough room to play with.


Quote by Delanoir
I wouldn't paint the neck, natural satin feels (and looks, in my opinion) much nicer.

And why dot inlays?


Well, I agree that natural satin looks better, but I prefer the feel of (well)painted necks. Also, I don't think that the mahogany would work (as a colour) with the yellow. If I was using maple, I might be tempted. I'm trying to keep things simple on the finishing front too, because I'm not doing it myself.

Edit: I don't trust myself enough to do cool inlays Having said that, I'm thinking of having MOP dots in the usual places, except the 12th, where I might put a scythe (like the white Japanese Alexi models).
Last edited by -MintSauce- at May 3, 2008,
#15
**** i realised, i thought you were talking about having no headstock angle, but not neck angle and recessed tom looks awsome.
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#16
Interesting, I'll be following this closely. So many RR24/Alexi type builds at the moment

How much was your 'Rotary Power Tool with Stand'?
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#17
is rotary power tool with stand basically a dremel ?

ifit is i wanna know how much it was too
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#18
It was £24 from B&Q :P .. PERFORMANCE POWER.

I'm a skint student, and it was too attractive a price, considering how it comes with a stand, flexible extension, and a billion attachments.

And yeah, Dremel are famous for making rotary power tools, and it's a rotary power tool.
#19
Quote by -MintSauce-

Well, I agree that natural satin looks better, but I prefer the feel of (well)painted necks. Also, I don't think that the mahogany would work (as a colour) with the yellow. If I was using maple, I might be tempted. I'm trying to keep things simple on the finishing front too, because I'm not doing it myself.

Edit: I don't trust myself enough to do cool inlays Having said that, I'm thinking of having MOP dots in the usual places, except the 12th, where I might put a scythe (like the white Japanese Alexi models).


Ah, I hadn't noticed that it was a mahogany neck. In that case, I can understand your decision.

And as for the inlays, that makes sense then. It might just be my own personal taste, but why not leave it as a nice clean fretboard with no inlays?
#21
Quote by Delanoir
And as for the inlays, that makes sense then. It might just be my own personal taste, but why not leave it as a nice clean fretboard with no inlays?

Yeah, I think a blank fretboard with no inlays would look nicer, I may do the same.

Quote by -MintSauce-
It was £24 from B&Q :P .. PERFORMANCE POWER.

I'm a skint student, and it was too attractive a price, considering how it comes with a stand, flexible extension, and a billion attachments.

And yeah, Dremel are famous for making rotary power tools, and it's a rotary power tool.

Excellent, I'll almost certainly get the same one in that case. I've been looking out for a good deal on a Dremel or other rotary tool. Tell us how you get on with it

EDIT: Do you know of any sort of router base thing you can get for this?
Quote by Liberation
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Last edited by loonyguitarist at May 4, 2008,
#22
^ yeah man im getting one of these too, that little extension thing for it looks ideal for inlays
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#23
Quote by loonyguitarist
Yeah, I think a blank fretboard with no inlays would look nicer, I may do the same.


Excellent, I'll almost certainly get the same one in that case. I've been looking out for a good deal on a Dremel or other rotary tool. Tell us how you get on with it

EDIT: Do you know of any sort of router base thing you can get for this?


I suck too much to be able to cope without inlays

I might get my hands on a Dremel router attachment. The Dremel and B&Q own seem to be VERY similar in shape, and I'm pretty sure that the Dremel just clips/clamps into the router base. Failing that, I've seen router jigs for any tool advertised.

Edit: Like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DREMEL-ROUTER-PLUNGER-ROTARY-WOODWORK-TOOL-CRAFT-HOBBY_W0QQitemZ380023906097QQihZ025QQcategoryZ3126QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The B&Q tool comes with two collets - one for 2.4>3.2mm, and one for >2.4mm - so it'll take Dremel bits.
Last edited by -MintSauce- at May 4, 2008,
#27
Looks great man, I cant wait to see it finished.
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#28
any updates dude
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#29
This looks sweet, your colorscheme is pretty original without being too tacky, and I love the idea of making the knob the center of a bullseye. I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
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#30
Quote by hans the lefty
any updates dude

I've got exams until monday the 19th, so nothing will happen until after then! I'll update midway through next week, when I get the wood

Quote by Missingno476
This looks sweet, your colorscheme is pretty original without being too tacky, and I love the idea of making the knob the center of a bullseye. I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out.


Thanks, fella.

Um, the volume isn't going in the centre of a bullseye! Sorry, I left the cutting/routing ring for the recess on the plan when I coloured it. The lines are just to show the centre of where the hole will be, then the largest circle shows the extent of the recess.
#31
DUDE! I am totally thinking of doing a similar build! Where did you get that program to make the guitar in? Can you send me some of the dimensions and stuff? I need drawings and it'd be GREATLY appreciated!
#32
Yea man whats the program?
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#33
Quote by ESP_Shreder
DUDE! I am totally thinking of doing a similar build! Where did you get that program to make the guitar in? Can you send me some of the dimensions and stuff? I need drawings and it'd be GREATLY appreciated!


Quote by tomypg
Yea man whats the program?


I started with a head-on perspective photo of an RR24, then worked out a scale factor, and measured it up.. but that was a ballache.. so I started messing around with an evaluation copy of Rhino 4. All you have to do is import an image of the guitar as the background, then plot out a few points around the body, and remove the background... choose a point of reference, scale it all correctly.. then VOILA... you have a rough plan. That's basically what I did - I used the massive RR24 picture from the Jackson website for the points of the V, then did the rest myself. I used the Carlino Guitars site to perve on the USA Alexi 600, and get a good look at the high fret cutaway and bellycut.

Download the Rhino 4 evaluation here:
http://download.rhino3d.com/eval/?p=25

RR24 image:
http://www.jacksonguitars.com/products/prod_images/guitars/2913024599_xl.gif

USA Alexi 600 image:
http://www.espguitars.com/images/guitars/Alexi_ESP_BLK.jpg

Japan Alexi image:
http://www.espguitars.co.jp/artist/alexi_laiho/alexi_laiho_arrow_head.jpg

USA Alexi 600 @ Carlino:
http://www.carlinoguitars.com/LTDAlexi600White.html

If all goes well with this guitar, the next guitars I'll make:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/mintsauce/8adddf29.png
Last edited by -MintSauce- at May 13, 2008,
#35
sweet. Thanks. I think I found a piece of wood that I can use too. I am gonna see if I can find a router bit today. My shop @ school is amazing. They have a router, band saw, and etc that I can use to build my guitar!
#37
Can you send the plans for that program for the Roope Sig :P Such a cool guitar. Can you send the file plz?
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#38
Quote by tomypg
Can you send the plans for that program for the Roope Sig :P Such a cool guitar. Can you send the file plz?


PM'd.

Just a note though:
I've only done the shape roughly, and I haven't bothered with the floyd rose.. so you'll need to add that if you want it.

Also, here's an image of the RL-600, before ESP took the Musikmesse report down:
#39
i want you to keep posting pics of your guitar as you make the thing ok. it will be one hell of an axe if you do this properly.
#40
Quote by ESP_Shreder
DUDE! I am totally thinking of doing a similar build! Where did you get that program to make the guitar in? Can you send me some of the dimensions and stuff? I need drawings and it'd be GREATLY appreciated!



not to start any controversy or anything, but i dont think he should send you them, as he is making a completely unique guitar by hand, from scratch... its kinda personal... unless of course you change it up a bit. because it will be one of a kind