Poll: What color should it be?
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View poll results: What color should it be?
White
20 57%
Yellow
5 14%
Black
10 29%
Voters: 35.
#1
So, I now have a neck more or less for my project which I have been wanting to do for a while now. I have a few questions before I draw everything up and any comments are appreciated. Everything will hopefully be documented.

Specs:
Alexi Liaho body style with alder wings
Emg 81 or 85 pickup (may do 18V mod)
Neck Thru 1 Piece Hard Maple neck (wizard or Wizard II based shape)
24 Fret 25.5" scale
Gotoh Black Tune-O-Matic bridge
Grover Minirotomatic 14:1 tuners Black
Black volume knob
String-Thru design
black tone knob
Earvana Graphite nut 42mm

Body color may be either white, yellow or black. I am not going to do any stripes

QUESTIONS:
How do you recess a Tune-O-matic?

What's a good book you suggest to get started?

Is maple or alder hard to work with?

What qualities are necessary for a fretboard wood?

Could you use red wood for the fretboard?

Do you have any of the things above that I can buy from you?

How do you get the proper shape of the neck?

Where are there templates I can get for the neck?

How many hours should I expect for this to take?

Where do I get paint besides spray paint?

What type of primer do I need if any?

What type of paint should I use?

DO THESE SEEM LIKE GOOD PRICES?

Neck: N/a
Body: $35 2 pieces
Bridge: $25
Tuners : $60
Truss Rod :$15
Fretwire: $15
Fretboard: $35
EMG 81: $70
Nut: $30
Titebond: $12
Ferrules: $12
Primer and paint: $30

$430 total plus $70 b/c I know there will be tools I need such as router bits and etc.
Last edited by ESP_Shreder at May 13, 2008,
#2
no idea but gl - love alexi laiho too !

"The mind is its own place, and in itself

Can make a Heav'n of Hell, a Hell of Heav'n"

- John Milton, Paradise Lost
#4
Those don't sound like half bad prices. My only question is why are the tuners $60? Definitely go with white too. Looks classy while still maintaining its badassery.
Quote by Peradactyl
alright, off topic but how do i make forum posts



Quote by The_Paranoia
a4lrocker is an offical thread legend.
#6
Oh I see...I didn't notice that part at the top. Yeah no I don't think you can get them much cheaper.
Quote by Peradactyl
alright, off topic but how do i make forum posts



Quote by The_Paranoia
a4lrocker is an offical thread legend.
#9
Quote by a4lrocker
Those don't sound like half bad prices. My only question is why are the tuners $60? Definitely go with white too. Looks classy while still maintaining its badassery.


+1

Those prices look pretty standard. The price for the EMG is great though.. I can never find new ones below £70 ($140?) in the UK.


And as for the questions:

How do you recess a Tune-O-matic?
Just route an area around the bridge, that's wide enough to take the thumbscrews, then mount the bridge in it. To find out how deep to route, draw a straight line from the point of your nut, then draw a TOM bridge-height block in the correct position, with the saddle touching your string line. Then measure the depth that the block sticks into your body drawing. You'll need to add 2mm or so onto that, to account for the bushings, and give you some play. If you're worried about doing an angled neck (like I am), but don't want a HUGE recess, you could try gluing a 2/3mm splice onto your neck black, to raise the fretboard up a bit. Or, of course, just plane the body section down by 2mm, if you've got a deep enough neck blank. Mine worked out at about 6mm, so I'm going to splice the top of the neck to raise everything.

What's a good book you suggest to get started?
Everyone recommends Melvin Hiscock's book, but I've never looked at one. I think that you can get by without, as long as you're patient and think things through.

Is maple or alder hard to work with?
Alder is apparently easy to work with - it's not as easy to destroy as basswood, but it's not a bitch to shape, like mahogany. Maple is seriously dense, so that'll be a bitch!

What qualities are necessary for a fretboard wood?
I think it goes like this.. the more dense the wood, the more 'snappy' the feel of the fretboard. Rosewood is well-rounded tonally, and responsive for playing, but I hate the grain tbh. It's kind of mellow compared to ebony, which should give slightly emphasised highs, and feel super-responsive, because of the glassy feel. I've only played maple fretboards on a few occasions, and I hated them every time.

Could you use red wood for the fretboard?
I've seen that done on acoustics. I'd urge you to go with ebony though, then give it a coat of darkening stain from Stewmac.

Do you have any of the things above that I can buy from you?
Not much point sending across the pond.

How do you get the proper shape of the neck?
Get hold of a contour/profile gauge, then use it on a few sections of the neck you want to copy.. then start shaping your neck, whilst applying the gauge every few minutes, to check your progress.

Where are there templates I can get for the neck?
No need, as long as you have access to a Wizard-II!

How many hours should I expect for this to take?
Perry Ormsby can make a guitar in less than a week... I'm giving mine 2-3 months, simply because that's how long I have until I go back to uni. Don't force yourself to sit in your workshop for 12 hours a day, because that might sap the enjoyment.

Where do I get paint besides spray paint?

No idea! Be lazy like me, and get a local spray shop to do the work for you!

What type of primer do I need if any?
Before the primer, don't forget sanding sealer and grain filler.

What type of paint should I use?
Perry Ormsby wrote a great post about this.. I think it was in his 'Endorsement Guitar' build thread.
#11
Does a saddle radius matter? the neck I have has a 12" radius and the bridge has one as well. So you wonder why would I ask the question probably. I want to modify the neck to a 16" radius. Can this be done and what effect would it have on the bridge / saddle radius?

Can you tell the difference between a 12" radius and a 16" radius?
#12
wood came in today. Here is the maple neck, a bit small but should do and nothing I can't fix with some titebond and left over scraps which is on the way btw.

It is not quartersawn. The one is of the top and the other is of the side.

B is of the top btw.
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