Is it worth it to replace my Epi LP std's 4 pots, switch and capacitors to the genuine Gibson stuff? Is there any difference? I was going to put a order in and get a couple of things this weekend. I didn't know if I should replace these, or if theres no point to.

If I should change them, should I go with 300k or 500k pots? What is the difference, a darker tone maybe? What capacitors should I get with them, and what is the difference between all the different capacitors?

I am going to try to find out some more info on these now. But I will take all the help I can get.

Yes, they will make a difference. The real question is will YOU notice the difference, and will it be worth the cost?

I personally replace pots, switches and input jacks on new guitars the second they get home. This is generally follow by locking tuners, and a new nut.

Once you get into a real studio, you'll find its the little things that cause the biggest problems.
Quote by kyrreca
If your EQ looks like this your audience will look like this
The genuine gibson stuff wont be any better than CTS pots but more expensive. I would go with 500k pots as they wont lose so much of the brightness as 300k. You could do the volume bypass cap on a switch to have a bright/normal switch.
Thanks guys,

One more question, Do I need the long or short shaft pots?

I am also still wondering about the capacitor. Which one should I go with? I am assuming they change the tone coming out of the tone pots?

Thanks again.
The capacitors affect the amount of treble, and the usual standard for LPs is, I believe, 500k/.022uF. Try and get Orange Drop ones.

Also, google the Les Paul 50s wiring mod - arguably the 50s wiring gives you a nicer tone and better tone control range.

And I think you need long-shaft for a Les Paul.
The Laney Thread are big and clever. No exceptions.
The short shaft pots fit in my epi. You may have to enlarge the holes for the pots. Dont know where epi gets theirs but nothing else seems to fit in the hole.
Short shaft pots for the epi. You probably want CTS 500K. Two audio taper for the volumes, two linear for the tones. Don't bother to change your switch or jack unless they're shorting out. Check the blog list in my profile for notes on different tone capacitors.
Thank you.

I am getting ready to place my order. I have a question.

I play a lot of overdriven lead stuff on my neck pickup with the tone knob rolled back almost all the way. It gives me a real smooth sound. If I start to turn it up past 2 or 3 it breaks up my smooth tone. Is that normal, and will those pots and caps help fix it? Or is that from something else altogether?

Thanks again.
No after I turn it up past 2 or 3 is when it starts to break up and not sound smooth.
LOL no.

When I am playing a overdriven or distorted lead song, using my neck pickup with the tone knob rolled back, I get a smooth tone. When I start to turn the tone knob up past 2 or 3 my tone almost sounds like its breaking up. It just doesn't sound smooth anymore, so I usually play with it all the way down or close to it.

Quote by MrCarrot
Also, google the Les Paul 50s wiring mod - arguably the 50s wiring gives you a nicer tone and better tone control range.

I just checked out that mod. I am confused. I didn't think the caps had anything to do with the volume pots. I mean I thought they just got soldered to the tone pots.

That mod is saying you switch where the caps are soldered onto the volume pot. I opened the back of my guitar up and the factory caps are just soldered to the 2 tone pots.