#1
all prices USD. On a whim, I was in the hardware store browsing. I saw the paint and said "Hey babe this looks nice." my wife responded and said "it's cheap, buy it. it'll look nice." No matter how crazy I may appear to be, my wife puts up with me and encourages me.

Mineral Spirits: (pint) $4
Rustoleum high gloss paint: (grass green) $4
Krylon for Plastic: (white) $4

I had leftover 600 grit from other projects, so I wiped down the body, lightly sanded it all down, wiped it down again, and painted. I used 1/4 sheet on the body.

BEFORE:



AFTER:



I've seen Ippon's tutorial on painting plastic pickguards. And?



waaaay cheaper than buying a new one. (easier than painting a guitar for sure) It was said to scuff the paint, I did not. If the paint BONDS to the material, why scuff it? I cleaned with spirits and sprayed. After an hour, but before the paint was really handling ready, I applied some leftover poly clear gloss at a bit more of a distance to try and get a shimmery/spackled look. and it worked to some extent. It's not that noticeable unless you view it from the right angles in certain tones of lights. I wasn't sure how this paint would level, but it's smooth and pretty.

I think overall for the amount of investment, the return is pretty good! I've painted a handful of guitars and was never really actually satisfied. But I like this. Too bad the body is plywood. I almost taped for black binding (stock color) but decided not to. Clear hasn't been applied yet, and no sanding yet either. I'm letting it sit in the sunlight. Today's not nearly as HOT as yesterday.

Every time I undergo a project, there will usually be one or two albums I listen to on that day. Yesterday's music was Hybrid Theory & Meteora (Linkin Park). I hadn't heard them in entirety for a while so figured it inspired me.

Oh, that and Floater as always. Questions?
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Last edited by jedilley at May 19, 2008,
#2
Not a question, but a comment.

That looks DAMN good for $12! Way to be!


EDIT: Ohh... waiit... I do have a question. What kind of guitar?
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#3
1980s Korean made Ibanez Silver Cadet Z.

which is not a bad older cheapo pawn shop guitar at all. H/S/S route on the body.

The last guitar I painted was a $100 nice basswood body that I screwed up. This body would go for cheap I'm sure, and I did a decent job. So go figure.
STUFFZ:
SAGA ST10, IBANEZ(s): '96 ZR140BK (korea), '96 RX20 (indonesia)
Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
#4
This is very similar to a budget paint job trick hot rodders use. using lots of coats of rustoleum thinned with mineral spirits, wet sanded in between, people get some amazing results. Eventally there was a magazine article about it you might want to read

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/index.html

The thread it first got started in is here:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

Be forewarned, the thread is 43 pages long. One word got out that you could get a decent paint job for $50 instead of $2,000, everyone wanted a piece. (That's not even all of it. At the end the thread is locked and there's a link to part II, which is 80 pages long, and locked with a link to part III, currently on page 49)
Last edited by Blaster Bob at May 19, 2008,
#5
Yeah I think it is very good. If you spent $40 on this I would still say it was great result for the money, but damn that is so inexpensive... $12 wow!
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
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#6
mineral spirits are my choice for wiping down between varying types of coats. since after the first coat there were no particles or runs, I applied another, and another, until about 3/4 of the can was used. once I'm done with my sunlight curing experiment, I'm going to wipe it down and polish it a little. I need to experiment to find the type of clear that will blend correctly on the top of this paint, but figure a week total before it's playable. (I'd still of course need to be very careful lol)

the neck for some reason seemed to have a ever so slight gap on the sides. this is why I did not tape the neck pocket. I wanted to see how well it would come out. The result? I can pick the guitar up with the neck sitting in place and not bolted down.

new parts going on the guitar: lube in the tuners, electronics, and new neckplate (with the black plastic bottom)

the back's trem cover is still in black. not sure if I should paint it white too? Not like I dont have the time or the paint left. I'm surprised how fast this paint for plastic was set.

I have another strat guitar body that is my dummy body. I get to paint it when I have new ideas to see what it would come out like in real world application. I try to find the easiest and cheapest method to procure a nice job whenever I'm working on something.
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Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
#7
So you want to achieve a high gloss effect?

Well, here is what I would recommend.

After spraying your clearcoats, wait for....


here it is...


the hard part....


I know....


really hard....


2 or 3


months.
I'll give you some time to cry now.


Once that has done


1: Wet sand with 400 until all shiny spots are gone

2: move to 800

3: 1200, 1600 etc.

You know you are done sanding a particular grit when the whole guitar has a uniform "shinyness" to it. Also, once you stop hearing an abrasive scratchy sound, then you are done with that grit. Keep going all the way up to the finest grit sandpaper you can get, like micro polishing paper (I.E. 800 grit)

Then use 3M Perfect-It ll
Rubbing Compound, followed by Fine Cut 3M’s Perfect-It ll (swirl remover)


I know the waiting is the hard part. If you don't wait, I've been told that you will gt a great factory looking shine and everything, but after a few months, as the paint sets up, it will go dull.
Finishing Compound
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
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#8
limited budget project. otherwise I would have gone more hardcore. but I'm using enamel and have decided not to clear coat it.
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Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
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Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
#9
Oh. Then in that case, wait for it to cure ( I dunno how long) and proceed with the wetsanding! Sandpaper won't cost much more that $1 or $2 a sheet.
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
#10
It feels ready to do the finish sanding, but I won't be able to do it until tomorrow morning sometime before work. New pics up then.

besides paint, black pickguard screws, new pots, and strings. The green body with white pickguard & black pickups looks good.
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#11
It's not like that. Lacquer takes time to set. It may dry in a day, but it will take months to set. I'm just going on what I have read, so do it how you want. I'd like to know how it turns out though, so I can judge when to sand mine...
Enjoi <--- Friend me
Quote by Scowmoo
Otter, you're my new god.
Last edited by Øttər at May 20, 2008,
#12
you're pretty much giving me advice I already know or that doesn't apply to me. I used enamel paint, not laquer. I'm doing some experimenting and will post the results in a couple of days, whenever I deem that it's time to finish sand it. Other than being wiped down with mineral spirits and a fine lint free cloth, nothing has been done to the guitar since it was last painted.

If you try to sand too soon with acrylic enamel, you'll smear the paint and make some gross marks which aren't really repairable unless you remove all the paint off the guitar and start over.

I've had plenty of time using poly, enamel, and automotive primer (which works decent after it's dried for a color coat IMO) but never played around with laquer.

even if the finish dulls a bit over time because I finished it too soon, I don't really care as long as it's flat and smooth without dull or shiny areas standing out in comparison to the rest of the guitar. That's my goal. A cheap in cost painting process that produces a nice quality semi-glossy look without running more than a week in time to produce.

I've been letting it sit out in the direct sunlight while turning it occasionally and writing down notes. so far after about four hours of sunlight, the paint has not dimmed. On the next day after it was painted (~12 hours) it was handling capable but not with any pressure or force otherwise the paint would marr, ect. After four hours in the sun it became what appeared to be as hard and sandable as well as hard to peel, but I'm *actually* being patient and giving it more time.

What I would like to do is take two bodies, paint them both in the same way and with the same paint, and cure one in no light, and cure the other in combination of red frequency and black lights. (black lights have more UV production) and compare the results. I'm purely screwing around, and if I mess up, I'll have fun doing it again!

See? Now ya got me rambling.
STUFFZ:
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Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
#13
I think it looks good

EDIT: If you ever figure out that super-painting formula, feel free to share
Last edited by minichibi at May 20, 2008,
#14
well, not super in any way except affordable/effort.
STUFFZ:
SAGA ST10, IBANEZ(s): '96 ZR140BK (korea), '96 RX20 (indonesia)
Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
#15
Quote by jedilley
... It was said to scuff the paint, I did not. If the paint BONDS to the material, why scuff it? I cleaned with spirits and sprayed. ...
Scuffing leaves a small amount of "tooth" to the old surface. This improves the bond between the old and the new. It also removes the top layer of the old, which might be impregnated with wax and/or silicones from cleaning "polishing" products that might have been used by a previous user or from the manufacturer. Mineral spirits aren't the greatest at removing wax/grease/silicone, but better than nothing.


Quote by jedilley
... After an hour, but before the paint was really handling ready, I applied some leftover poly clear gloss at a bit more of a distance to try and get a shimmery/spackled look. and it worked to some extent. It's not that noticeable unless you view it from the right angles in certain tones of lights. I wasn't sure how this paint would level, but it's smooth and pretty.
You would have been better off to use a satin finish for the base coat and a properly wet coat of gloss clear on top. Spraying at a distance allows the droplets to dry somewhat before they hit the surface. since they don't flow well into one another, this makes the coating weaker. If severe, this will also allow tiny air pockets for form. You might get by with this, but it's really not a recommended technique.


Quote by jedilley
mineral spirits are my choice for wiping down between varying types of coats. since after the first coat there were no particles or runs, I applied another, and another, until about 3/4 of the can was used. once I'm done with my sunlight curing experiment, I'm going to wipe it down and polish it a little. I need to experiment to find the type of clear that will blend correctly on the top of this paint, but figure a week total before it's playable. (I'd still of course need to be very careful lol)
iirc, rustoleum is an enamel of some sort and krylon is a lacquer. the clear that would be appropriate for each of these will be different.


Quote by jedilley
the neck for some reason seemed to have a ever so slight gap on the sides. this is why I did not tape the neck pocket. I wanted to see how well it would come out. The result? I can pick the guitar up with the neck sitting in place and not bolted down.
Painting a neck pocket isn't a great idea. paint tends to have more thickness on inside corners than on flats. While you improved the intimacy of contact on the sides, you may have lost a lot in terms of contact between the back flat of the neck and the front face of the neck pocket. You might want to round over the edges on the neck where it fits into the pocket, if they're somewhat square.
Meadows
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#17
Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
Scuffing leaves a small amount of "tooth" to the old surface. This improves the bond between the old and the new. It also removes the top layer of the old, which might be impregnated with wax and/or silicones from cleaning "polishing" products that might have been used by a previous user or from the manufacturer. Mineral spirits aren't the greatest at removing wax/grease/silicone, but better than nothing.


I wasn't worried about the cleanliness of the pickguard (it was very clean) and if not scuffing it gave it an out of whack look, I was okay with that as I do have a spare pickguard (although not the ibanez shape)


Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
You would have been better off to use a satin finish for the base coat and a properly wet coat of gloss clear on top. Spraying at a distance allows the droplets to dry somewhat before they hit the surface. since they don't flow well into one another, this makes the coating weaker. If severe, this will also allow tiny air pockets for form. You might get by with this, but it's really not a recommended technique.


The next time I do up a guitar, I had planned on satin and a nice clear gloss top. I'm still playing with enamel mostly because it originally gave me the most grief when working with it and can't seem to put it down until I find a way. I'm tenacious. Screwing up is not so bad because I can sand it back down. I'm pretty good with sanding. As for the distance, I spaced it out to the maximum of the spraying distance listed (12-16) and didn't make a full coat, just a couple of sweeps. It has somewhat settled, it was kinda lightly coarse and now it's smoother. But it still looks nice. If time provides a crappy looking and deteriorating pickguard, then we'll know what not to do.

Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
iirc, rustoleum is an enamel of some sort and krylon is a lacquer. the clear that would be appropriate for each of these will be different.


Which I had wondered about while I had the poly gloss can in my hand. Do I? Should I? What will happen? No no no... better not mess around. I then remembered my last guitar I painted (on a trial run lol) and it wasn't pretty. it made little techtonic plates out of the paint. It looked like mud on a really hot week of a really hot dry month. I still haven't found material (or searched haha) to see what type of clear *can* go with enamel.


Quote by SomeoneYouKnew
Painting a neck pocket isn't a great idea. paint tends to have more thickness on inside corners than on flats. While you improved the intimacy of contact on the sides, you may have lost a lot in terms of contact between the back flat of the neck and the front face of the neck pocket. You might want to round over the edges on the neck where it fits into the pocket, if they're somewhat square.


It wasn't very flat before anyways. I was going to level sand it. But I'm pretty sure I'm going to strip the paint out of the neck pocket, and glue the neck in.

I am tweaking this $76 guitar on the inexpensive side to look, play, and sound like a great playing guitar. If it involves redoing work, more sanding time and more materials, it's still cheap enough. just... not this week. I'm flat ass broke.
STUFFZ:
SAGA ST10, IBANEZ(s): '96 ZR140BK (korea), '96 RX20 (indonesia)
Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
Last edited by jedilley at May 21, 2008,
#18
Very cool color, but you shouldn't paint the neck pocket. nothing should come between the neck and the body cavity including paint.
/JP
#19
it was already painted in the neck pocket, but I've already made it a plan to remove all the paint in the neck pocket.
STUFFZ:
SAGA ST10, IBANEZ(s): '96 ZR140BK (korea), '96 RX20 (indonesia)
Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
#20
One side of a gemini is kinda floaty, and seems usually unfinished in thought. but I've experimented enough, finally know what I want. Anyways, it's going great. I hang it in the main portion of the house (the kitchen) and it seems to have cheered up people to see something somewhat artistic (painting I guess)

here's the new figure for a cost on finishing a guitar from no tools standpoint.

$4.49 x 2 (Apple Red Metallic "brilliant metal finish")
$2.99 cleaning cloths
$4 Mineral Spirits
$4 Krylon for Plastic
$2 in sandpaper 320 grit
~$7.49 Future Floor Wax

you may need more sandpaper. I was smoothing out the contours and trying to level out some dents after my base. I used the old paint as well as a can of black paint and sanded it uniform (as much as possible). I didn't mind a couple imperfections because I knew some of the dents wouldn't come out perfect. they are only viewable at certain angles at close distance, so I figure I'm all good!

total: ~$30 USD (west coast)

the floor wax has not been applied. the guitar has not been away from paint long enough, I'm letting it sit and keeping my impatience from ficking up *again*. I've played around with painting for a while and just now putting the time and detailed effort in to doing good work.

I miss logged into my photobucket album... bleh. So my username is jon61484 for those who want to check out the progress up until the green paint. I also have the basswood strat when it was natural and carved up (thanks to dremel and acrylic art paint) and then when I filled in the carves and painted it soft white. that's a different guitar than my current. which stock form picture is black on black obviously. later after I finish helping my friend's friend move some mustang parts to his "newer" shop in the other town, I'll post the red finish. Everyone says it's tits.
STUFFZ:
SAGA ST10, IBANEZ(s): '96 ZR140BK (korea), '96 RX20 (indonesia)
Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
#22
just for clarification if people might see this page and not the first page of the thread, my photobucket album is right here and contains all of the images like this:



and more.

the guy who I helped move a mustang rear clip out of his truck has offered (at no cost to me) to paint the next guitar body I get. He's a very well capable and award winning auto painter/bodyshop owner. He has won many awards on his corvettes and customer vehicles.
STUFFZ:
SAGA ST10, IBANEZ(s): '96 ZR140BK (korea), '96 RX20 (indonesia)
Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
Last edited by jedilley at Jun 1, 2008,
#23
note to self:krylon is cheap and looks amazing on guitars

nice job!!
Gibson SG Faded
Epi VJ Stack


Quote by Øttər
Whenever I clean my guitars, my family wonders why it smells so good; I say that I exude a fresh citrus scent from hidden orifices.
They stopped asking
#24
the painting I have done is decent. it's not amazing. my dream guitar at this point I would be fine with paying someone else to paint it. and I could spend a long time explaining who (as in many capable people) but it's pointless. There are enough people out there that have the tools to do better, I don't.

in which case, the guy who I helped today offered to paint a guitar for me. My room-mate Aarron who is a skilled apprentice in training at a repair shop, will probably split the difference of completing a one-off guitar. being sold primarily to support our income (both of us)

yay! and I got a sweet badass computer today FOR FREE. Plus a mini-fridge. for a almost 24 year old (less than two weeks till birthday time) these are great condition free things. and this summer will be crazy good as well. Financial aid has increased for my wife in ungodly amounts. mwahaha.

good times had by all in this household. (this house has 11 incumbents in all of two floors and 7 bedrooms.)

tomorrow at the latest I will have posted pics showing the flaws in detail. see I'm tricky. I made a decent paint job NOT show it's flaws. and none of these pictures are really professional quality either.
STUFFZ:
SAGA ST10, IBANEZ(s): '96 ZR140BK (korea), '96 RX20 (indonesia)
Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
Last edited by jedilley at Jun 1, 2008,
#25
new pictures posted. the newest ones show 2 applications of the clear coat. I'm going with 5 or 6 more. the back of the neck is getting the depth like gloss as well.

The guitar is not orange under any light by the eye, but from the camera at certain angles gets these neat hues... but you won't see them under normal yellow light/sunlight.

link to photobucket album
STUFFZ:
SAGA ST10, IBANEZ(s): '96 ZR140BK (korea), '96 RX20 (indonesia)
Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
#26
that looks pretty good actually. I'm surprised it worked out so good for you using those paints.
#27
the black spots btween the pickups being underneath the pickguard, were my test spots for using my fingernail to guage the hardness of the color coats. there are three dents in total on the guitar, and none of them as of yet show up in camera, but are slightly noticeable to just barely noticeable depending on view angle/distance. I'm trying to get pictures of them showing them, I need some ideas on lighting issues I guess.

anyways, I still have a couple more to post to the album. about every evening I should post a bit more.

after clear it gets sperzel locking tuners, the new pots, and then strung up. the pickguard will wait a bit longer, endure some slight buffing and be good to string up.

Edit: I am surprised as well. The acrylic enamel (krylon) with a little rubbing from a lint free fine cloth with mineral spirits, let dry, rub in acrylic "no buff" floor coating in small amounts, building up areas. That's about it. I painted it on saturday afternoon and it is monday night. I rubbed in by hand the gloss, and let it dry an hour, cleaned with mineral spirits lightly, and did it again. My process will be repeating the cleaning after waiting and re applying the gloss. it's adding depth and bringing out the reflective paint.
STUFFZ:
SAGA ST10, IBANEZ(s): '96 ZR140BK (korea), '96 RX20 (indonesia)
Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
Last edited by jedilley at Jun 3, 2008,
#28
Congrats! Inexpensive and well-executed refinish jobs are so satisfying and can look really nice.

One important note: The new Krylon spraypaint is now Enamel while the old Krylon is Acrylic! How the heck can you differentiate? Look at the labels:

Old Krylon: says Interior-Exterior, dries in 12 minutes, has 5 balls in a circle (Acrylic)
New Krylon: says Indoor-Outdoor, dries in 10 minutes, doesn't have the 5 balls

How did I find out? blah blah blah experiment .... paint snags .... called manufacturer, got confirmation about the change in formula .... etc. Both Krylon and Duplicolor are manufactured by Sherwin-Williams.

Ace Hardware still carries the NOS Krylon for $3.49, and so do some other mom and pop hardware stores. I've since accumulated a few cases. The $2.50 to 3.00/can days are gone.

#29
I was under the impression that laquer and enamel paints are both differing types of acrylic, and this is why I went with the floor gloss (model car hobby trick) because it was acrylic as well.

Normally I'm really hard on myself because my painting before has turned out anywhere from bad to so-so. The latest pictures are with only about two applications of the gloss, still need to do some more! more more more!



btw - this is CHALKBOARD PAINT! AND IT'S SWEET! but I ran out of it to do a good job, I went to do final sanding and realized I ran through.

STUFFZ:
SAGA ST10, IBANEZ(s): '96 ZR140BK (korea), '96 RX20 (indonesia)
Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
Last edited by jedilley at Jun 3, 2008,
#30
Quote by jedilley
I was under the impression that laquer and enamel paints are both differing types of acrylic, and this is why I went with the floor gloss (model car hobby trick) because it was acrylic as well.

Normally I'm really hard on myself because my painting before has turned out anywhere from bad to so-so. The latest pictures are with only about two applications of the gloss, still need to do some more! more more more!



btw - this is CHALKBOARD PAINT! AND IT'S SWEET! but I ran out of it to do a good job, I went to do final sanding and realized I ran through.


You're probably right. I just know that the old Krylon wasn't Enamel and had the same formula as Duplicolor. I also know, at a high level, that they're different from Shellac or Nitro or Polyurethane, etc.

Perhaps you can have your pro friends explain ... better yet, I can look it up in the interweb.

#31
I currently sit here enjoying a beer and some hefty pieces of steak (listening to stevie wonder, matchbox twenty, and john mayer) in celebration. picked up sperzel locking tuners and strings, all that was needed to throw together. stock everything, minus bridge, paint, modified wiring.

USA made 8 pole, 5-way switch. tone now is converted to a bridge volume. at 10, regardless of pickup selector switch, bridge will be added to signal.

new pickups + 6 way rotary (replacing volume) and concentric volume/tone pot (replacing tone pot) comes later this summer. tuners and bridge being replaced help the most. these stock pickups aren't terrible, the neck sounds great, the middle leaves something to be desired.

later this summer my booster preamp gets itself put into an enclosure as well. I'll have new pics posted to my photobucket account tomorrow when I get the new tuners on the neck, the electronics mounted and wired, and throw it all up for a setup. The new computer is suited usefully for recording, so I have computer digital effects to toy with until later in this summer where I can start amp searching.

One of two decisions based on mainly to compliment the guitar:
Kustom 12 Guage (brand new)

or

Crate Blackheart combo (brand new)

there is a $125 dollar difference between the two of course. My room-mate picked up the blackheart combo (sub $300 new) and a Jekyl & Hyde to go with his PRS. This is what has almost sold me on that amp.

Plus I still need to finish the 30 watt stereo chorus amp.
STUFFZ:
SAGA ST10, IBANEZ(s): '96 ZR140BK (korea), '96 RX20 (indonesia)
Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)
#32
So, been a while. Here's what happened in the meantime:

I completed the guitar. Next up, new pickups + electronics. Not for a couple months though.
I quit my old job and started my new job. Less stress, and every weekend off. (I get out of work at 2pm so I have all afternoon and night too!)
Our hard work and saving let us splurge. New 32" 1080p widescreen. 5000:1 contrast ratio, ect. and an xbox 360 (20GB /w 2 wireless controllers) ect.

Here's the guitar is after a couple weeks of wear marks and a couple of chips (not all seen in the pic) I took it into my housmate's shop and let his boss have a look at it when it was freshly done. He said if it was my first he would have given me an A++, so that made me feel good. Prior to that I was pretty hard on myself.



Those are tuner bushings! A functional, cheap, easy way to help you lock your bridge down for better tuning. No time needed with blocks of wood now. If I want it to be functional, I unscrew the outside screws, loosen the middles a bit, and pull the bushings out. After measuring and figuring some things out, I tried these as spacers to have a level and measured bridge height. The bridge makes contact in three places on the body, and all of them flush. Two inside the cavity and on the top in the back of course.

And the new amp.



Which despite not having the best reviews, sounds very well with my strat. I purchased this amp knowing it wasn't the best, but that it did give me the vibes I wanted. The dirty channel is interesting. Anybody got a good mod for it? (besides changing the speaker later)

+1 for fender including the amp schematics and pcb/parts layout.
STUFFZ:
SAGA ST10, IBANEZ(s): '96 ZR140BK (korea), '96 RX20 (indonesia)
Danelectro Cool Cat CC1 Chorus
Digitech Bad Monkey
Behringer BX1800A (180w 12" aluminum cone)
FOR SALE: Fender Champion 110 (25w RMS combo 10" with tank reverb)