#1
Are there any attenuators available that can bring a 120 watt tube amp down to semi-bedroom levels?
The highest I've seen was 100w I think.
I don't want to buy something and then break it because it can handle the wattage.
#2
I think its more the Ohm level that has to be right...theres a marshall power brake and THD hot plates that I know about...if ur amp has a master volume just dont put it above 7 and it shouldnt be putting out more than 100w (thats a guess)
Last edited by Orethor at May 21, 2008,
#3
Ok if I match the ohms but what if i have a 50w attenuator, and a 120w head?

All I was asking if there were 200w(or so) attenuators?
But I found the Weber Mega Dump 200.
#4
do THD hotplates have a wattage limit? i always thought they could take any wattage, but i am always wrong. But they must have something good about them to justify that kind of price!

Even if you could bring the 120w down to bedroom level it would lose a lot of tone in the process, that kind of attenuation doesnt sound too good, they are mainly designed for cranking amps just a little bit extra at gigs but controlling the volume level a little
#5
Go with a Weber, or an Ultimate.

Quote by xJawsh
Ok if I match the ohms but what if i have a 50w attenuator, and a 120w head?

All I was asking if there were 200w(or so) attenuators?
But I found the Weber Mega Dump 200.


That will trash the attenuator and the head, so don't try it.

Go with the Weber 200w Dump, you won't regret it.

Oh, and for the record, Hotplates suck ass.
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Last edited by diditfortehlulz at May 21, 2008,
#6
Quote by diditfortehlulz
Go with a Weber, or an Ultimate.


That will trash the attenuator and the head, so don't try it.



I knew that I was just pointing out the ohms cant be the only thing that matter.
#7
Quote by diditfortehlulz
Go with a Weber, or an Ultimate.


That will trash the attenuator and the head, so don't try it.

Go with the Weber 200w Dump, you won't regret it.

Oh, and for the record, Hotplates suck ass.

hotplates don't suck ass, they are decent attenuators if you are recording or just using it to tame a super loud amp. ie. NMV older Marshalls, Sound City, etc... Mainly amps that rely on powertube saturation for their overdrive. If you are attenuating a high gain head like a 5150, it's not really going to be that effective, since you already have a ton of gain in the preamp. All attenuators start to suck tone the more you try to attenuate the volume level, that's just the nature of the beast.

I prefer the Weber Mass too, I have the Mass 150, but the Hotplate is far from **** if you use it correctly. If you said the Powerbrake sucks ass, I would agree with you, lol. All of them suck if you are trying to attenuate down to conversation levels however.

The hotplates are designed around a specific impedance rating, so for example, the 8ohm hotplate is designed to sound best with an 8ohm cab and head setting. They can handle up to 180W.

When picking an attenuator, you want it to handle a lot more than your head is rated at. Normally, amps are rated at their clean headroom before clipping, so a tube amp can actually put out a lot more power than they are rated when you are pushing them into overdrive.
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#8
If you go with a hotplate, matching ohms is all you need, however anything over 180watts is too high..

I have a Hot Plate, and whoever said that they suck ass is a bit off...

It's a good attenuator, just a bit pricey
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#9
Quote by slashs_#1_fan
Even if you could bring the 120w down to bedroom level it would lose a lot of tone in the process, that kind of attenuation doesnt sound too good, they are mainly designed for cranking amps just a little bit extra at gigs but controlling the volume level a little

This.

What head do you have, TS?
#11
Google the Marshall Power Brake. See if you can find product reviews to get the best info. All you’ll find here are opinions.

Here is mine. I own a Power Brake and use it with my Plexi. If you heard it, I think you will agree that it does not ‘suck’. I bought this one specifically because it was designed as a reactive load to more closely simulate a speaker. Most other attenuators are just that, resistive loads which the amp is NOT designed to work into. The amp wants to see a speaker, not a resistor. This is primarily where the tone gets lost.

If you can, go to the guitar store and audition before you buy. Your ears will tell you what is best.
Trav
#12
You can always pull a pair of power tubes to put it down to 60w, half your impedance selector, and then use the attenuator? That way you'd have less volume, more opportunity for cranking and not have to waste a lot on a hugely powerful attenuator.
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#13
Quote by MrCarrot
You can always pull a pair of power tubes to put it down to 60w, half your impedance selector, and then use the attenuator? That way you'd have less volume, more opportunity for cranking and not have to waste a lot on a hugely powerful attenuator.


...Just spending a hugely amount for amp repair instead...

I wouldn't do that.
Trav
#14
Remember, using an attenuator like that burns up tubes faster......because the tubes are running at full tilt, despite the low volume
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#15
Quote by Traveler 45C
Google the Marshall Power Brake. See if you can find product reviews to get the best info. All you’ll find here are opinions.

Here is mine. I own a Power Brake and use it with my Plexi. If you heard it, I think you will agree that it does not ‘suck’. I bought this one specifically because it was designed as a reactive load to more closely simulate a speaker. Most other attenuators are just that, resistive loads which the amp is NOT designed to work into. The amp wants to see a speaker, not a resistor. This is primarily where the tone gets lost.

If you can, go to the guitar store and audition before you buy. Your ears will tell you what is best.

Like store product reviews are any better? It's usually people that sell the unit, or people that just got the unit and are still in the honeymoon. It's still all opinion.

Funny too, after Musicians Friend bought Harmony Central, who incidentally also sells the unit, the really bad reviews disappeared. 4 years ago when I was looking at attenuators, there were quite a few cases of the PB frying amps listed in their review section. They used cheap wiring on the earlier units, and they would heat up and melt the solder on the connections resulting in an open load.

It's also contested whether it's a truly reactive load in that unit. It doesn't use an actual speaker motor like the Weber attenuators.

Glad you like yours, but don't try and paint other peoples opinions as any less significant than yours.
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#16
Quote by Traveler 45C
...Just spending a hugely amount for amp repair instead...

I wouldn't do that.
Don't talk shit, it's perfectly safe if you do it right, my amp is running on 2 out of 4 power tubes right now and it couldn't be safer.
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