#1
At the moment i have a set of 45-105s on my bass and i have bought some rotos which are 40-95. Can i do anything to make the nut the right size without replacing the nut?
#2
No.
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#3
Ah, so how much would a new nut be and what would the method to fit it?

and could i use the bass with the 40s and the current nut or will it be crap?
Last edited by Rywad at May 27, 2008,
#4
The safest bet would be to pay a luthier to fit you a new nut.

If you have a common bass, you may be able to get a replacemet nut, so it is a matter of removing the old nut and glueing the new one down. If you decide to do that, you will get better reponses in the building and customising forum.

And go Reading!
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#5
Honestly, unless you're in love with that new guage, it'd probably be cheaper, quicker and easier just to buy a new set of 45-105's.
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#6
Jack you ever been to guitarworks? My guitar shop of choice
#7
Quote by Rywad
Jack you ever been to guitarworks? My guitar shop of choice


I pop in every other week or so on the way home from school. They love me after I bought a £750 bass from them.
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#8
Lol, i might have to go and see them tomorrow about a new nut :p or do i take my rotos back and get some 45s again... Hmm i do like thinner strings though.
#9
They do have a luthier who works with the store. Getting a new nut is fairly pricy, but from my experience with the lutheir, he is very good.
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#10
do you even need a new nut, or is it just prefferable to have one? I don't know, cos i just go the counter and ask for thier cheapest set of bass strings.
#11
If he will be permentantly going down the smaller guage strings, a fitting nut is preferable. If you are experiementing, it should be ok so long as the nut size and string size are close. If you have decided upon a guage of strings, it is best to get it fitted properly.
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#12
I did the same thing, went from 105's to 100's. But since my bass originally had 100's on it i was fine.
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#13
Really, one downwards step in string gauge won't require a new nut. In my experience, 90% of basses (and guitars) come with lighter gauge strings stock. If anything, you should have gotten the nut shaped when installing the thicker strings.
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#14
is the qauge really importamt??? I've only restringed my bass once... it badly needs to be done tho.. I've been putting it off for months(i'm flat broke and have exams)... But that will all change in the next two weeks.... But ya.. I dont know what gauge my current strings are.. How do i find out??
#15
Quote by jimmy_neutron
is the qauge really importamt??? I've only restringed my bass once... it badly needs to be done tho.. I've been putting it off for months(i'm flat broke and have exams)... But that will all change in the next two weeks.... But ya.. I dont know what gauge my current strings are.. How do i find out??

It all depends on the sound you want. I got 100's cause i didnt like how low the 105's got when tuned down to D. But now it adds a sharp clean sound to my 'bassy' settings.

Its all opinion. However, what i recommend is trying out all different kinds of string and gauges.
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#16
but how do i know if im getting the right gauge to fit my bass?? Tbh i dont actually know what gauge is so.... Like if i go out and buy some strings.. what's the possibility that they wont fit my bass?? This is all assumin i have the correct idea as to what 'gauge' is.....
#17
Quote by jimmy_neutron
is the qauge really importamt??? I've only restringed my bass once... it badly needs to be done tho.. I've been putting it off for months(i'm flat broke and have exams)... But that will all change in the next two weeks.... But ya.. I dont know what gauge my current strings are.. How do i find out??


Well they are factory strings the most common gauge is 45-105 so im fairly confident you have that gauge too. Best is to just bring the string to the store they should be able to tell. (I'm sure there is a way to measure it but i never had to so i wouldn't know how)

As to the OP if you experimenting don't change the nut if you keep them forever then it's preferred to change the nut. (like GM Jack said)

And is the gauge important? YES. It determines the sound for a large part.
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#18
Quote by Mescalino
Well they are factory strings the most common gauge is 45-105 so im fairly confident you have that gauge too. Best is to just bring the string to the store they should be able to tell. (I'm sure there is a way to measure it but i never had to so i wouldn't know how)

As to the OP if you experimenting don't change the nut if you keep them forever then it's preferred to change the nut. (like GM Jack said)

And is the gauge important? YES. It determines the sound for a large part.


You can measure the guage with a pair of callipers.

You can tell factory size as it is likely to either be on the companies website, or availble if you send them an email.
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#19
Well i fixed my problem, I got on the bus into town and swapped the strings for 45s, told them I made a silly mistake and exchanged them. Just put them on and there bloody bright strings !

But I think i'm liking them alot.

And yeah, calipers are the only way to measure them i believe unless a ruler can point out 0.045 inches... (or is it 0.0045? I can't remember..)
Last edited by Rywad at May 27, 2008,
#20
Just 0.045. Remmber that a low E is about a tenth of an inch wide, not a hundredth.

And glad to see wussy low guage strings didn't mean that much to you .
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#21
And i also, had a bit of fun and tried out a Warwick 'vette, was a beautiful thing. Now its on my GAS list and maybe my next guitar list if i can get rid of my urge for a Fender j-bass. Afterall the jazz is only £350ish and the vette is £600...
#22
I have a Corvette myself (with minimal custom options so I get a £100 case with it). Worth every penny.

Where abouts do you live in reading?
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#23
I live in Woodley, like just outside reading. You?

And I was thinking about getting the corvette in Natural oil but obviously it would be the doublebuck one. I really dunno though, might ask for it as a exams gift and i'll trade my guitar in for part exchange to get some money off the warwick.

Actually, i'm liking the look of the Corvette with the two what look like jazz pickups, like yours...
Last edited by Rywad at May 27, 2008,
#24
Quote by Rywad
I live in Woodley, like just outside reading. You?

And I was thinking about getting the corvette in Natural oil but obviously it would be the doublebuck one. I really dunno though, might ask for it as a exams gift and i'll trade my guitar in for part exchange to get some money off the warwick.

Actually, i'm liking the look of the Corvette with the two what look like jazz pickups, like yours...


Wargrave myself, and I go to Reading school.

And for Warwicks, I can only recommend you go for the single coild pickups. Humbuckers have a distinctive tone. It can still be dlexable, but the humbucker sound remains there. I find single coild allow Warwicks to really shine through.

However, they are still a very distinctive tone, and the varience between the two body woods is huge. Try a Bubinga and an Ash one side by side if they have them in together. When I played an ash one, I found myself rolling off a lot of the treble because it was too bright. The bubinga gave me the low end clarity I wanted.

And i got natural finish because it was the cheapest, and it is just handy I love the way ti looks.
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#25
I saw the bubinga one and I believe its the same colour as yours but its £800 :/ and the single coil ash one is £490ish i believe. Might have to try them and sadly I think the cheaper one will be my choice as I doubt i can get too much off my dad as a getting 'hopefully' good gcse results but i think selling my guitar and my dad giving me money should cover most of it... (I hope)

And i like the natural oil colours they seem nice, I also like the red stains.

I like the bright sounding bass' but sometimes I like to have a very bassy tone which I'm not too sure which i prefer but I am definately gonna get a Warwick as my next bass simply because i've loved everyone i've tried.. And whats better in them? Active or passive electronics?
#26
I go with passive pickups and active elctronics. Active electronics have a built in bypass, so it is a must. Active or passive pups is preference.

And the ash does have a good low end, and the bubinga has plenty of clarity, without any EQing. However, playing the bubinga with a low B string through a 15" speaker just shakes the floor.
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#27
lol, I play through a 300w Ashdown ABM evo II at the moment, so amp wouldnt be a problem... I thinks you just helped me solve my GAS :P I thinks i'm gonna save up for the Warwick and hopefully get it by the end of august
#28
Quote by Rywad
lol, I play through a 300w Ashdown ABM evo II at the moment, so amp wouldnt be a problem... I thinks you just helped me solve my GAS :P I thinks i'm gonna save up for the Warwick and hopefully get it by the end of august


Mine shakes the floor through 150W. Now I'm GASing for a nice Trace Elliot (or maybe GK, or Genz Benz, or Ashdown) and 2 more basses.

GAS is a nasty SOAB
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#29
It may be nasty but its sure lovely when you buy something you've GAS'd about for months

And which basses are you GASing for at the moment? And i think this thread should be renamed, Rywad and GM Jacks discussion about GAS and Warwicks.
#30
Well, a Bongo (5 or 6 string) and a fretless Thumb bass (maybe a few custom options, again, 5 or 6 string). I know I like 5 strings more than 4, but I haven't tried a 6 yet.

As for amps, I like the look of a Trace Elliot 500W 7 band head and their 115 + 210 cab. I would need to try it out though. Might pop into soundcontrol in London over the summer just to fixate my GAS on one rig.
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#31
Just spend a while working and then eventually buy something with like £2000 and hope you love it :P
#32
Quote by thefitz
Really, one downwards step in string gauge won't require a new nut.

exactly!
the smaller strings will do fine in the nut. no mods needed. if they don't slip out, they are fine.