So today I got back from my first day at college and I'm minding my own business playing with my laptop and then I hear a crack come from my beloved acoustic guitar that's hanging on the wall. I walk over thinking it was just astring broken but then I strum it while it's hanging on the wall and it's all buzzy. So I look down at the bridge and see that it cracked apart at the saddle.

Is there anyway I can fix this by myself? Paying for my tuition drained all my money so taking it to a repair shop maybe a little hard for a little while.


yes you can glue and clamp it back in place. i would be worried about what caused it however. perhaps the saddle was to wide and put undo pressure against the sides of the saddle slot i dont know but after glueing it back i would check to see that the saddle fit properly. frets .com has many interesting threads on guitar repair research there.
good luck
Well could it be a capo that I left on it? It was on the 2nd fret but it didn't cause much tension since the action on this guitar is really low.
Yes, the capo being left on could have caused it. It changed the angle that the strings come off the saddle(white piece). This may have put increased force in the wrong direction onto the saddle piece, which in turn caused the wood of the bridge to snap. The saddle was trying to lean forward in the slot by the looks of the break line.
If you do attempt to glue it back together, make sure you use the right glue. Don't use plain old wood glue. The stuff to get is called "Hide glue". It's the primary glue used for guitars, and has a very high bond strength compared to wood glue. The best part of it is it's able to be melted again with a bit of heat so misaligned parts or future repairs are easy.
hide or hyde lefty is on the right track i would google it i am fortunate enough that i have contacts in a cabinet makers shop if you were to trying to find it blind i would google it and buy it from the cheapest reliable source. and i would check to see if the saddle was to skinny as well as wide as skinny would cause it to lean forward and put undo stress on the front of the bridge slot. perhaps causeing the damage.
drunk post i apologize but hey it happens hope i and the others at this forum helped noone wants to see anyones guitar go down good luck and i hope your repares come out shining.
as dave said, the capo could very well have caused the problem. it could have also broken because of a poorly made saddle, regardless of capo or not. if the saddle is too wide it will exert too much pressure on the bridge and can cause it to crack like that. if the saddle is too think it will sit in the bridge at an angle towards the soundhole. this is caused by the pressure of the strings going over the saddle. this can not only be caused by poor construction, but also high action. if the action is too high at the saddle, often regardless of the thickness of the saddle, you will run into problems. there is an ideal range of angles for the strings to cross the saddle. this is called the break angle. if the break angle is too small (the saddle is too high), it can cause the saddle to be pulled into an angle towards the soundhole. this also exerts too much pressure on the bridge. have a look at these pictures. the first picture is an example of a guitar where the action is too high at the saddle. notice how small the break angle is. this is causing the saddle to lean forward even though the saddle appears to be of an adequate width.

this second picture also shows a break angle that is too small, but it is caused by something different. the action at the saddle on the pictured guitar is within acceptable standards, but the holes in the bridge are way too close to the saddle, i.e. poor construction/design. this creates an even smaller break angle and is again causing the saddle to lean forward even though the saddle is of an adequate width.

the above issue also works the opposite way. if the bridge pins are too far away from the saddle, the break angle is too large. while this will not cause problems with the bridge breaking, it makes it very difficult, sometimes impossible, to adjust the action to a desirable height. if you lower the action here at the saddle (by sanding down the underside of the saddle), the strings will cut even further into the bridge on the way to the saddle. you can see in the picture that the strings have already begun cutting into the bridge and are nearly cutting into the inlay already.

i rarely see a saddle that is too wide, but it is very common to see a saddle that is too thin and sits in the bridge at an angle. this is obviously more common in cheaper guitars, but i've even seen it on guitars priced upwards of $1000 or more.