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#1
I have a '68 SG Custom. It has no finish on it, and it looks ugly. I was thinking of either painting it or having it painted, although at this point having it painted wouldn't be worth it to me. I was thinking of doing a white faded SG look. I got a quote from a guy who wants $300 for it, which sucks. Anyway, I have three questions.
1. How would I go about painting it for the white faded look?
2. Instead of Satin, could I run a sort of gloss to make it look like it was original but "well-played"? I believe that's the look I want.
3. I don't believe I can stain it red and put a satin or gloss because the filler would show, right?
To get an idea about what I'm talking about, here's a stock faded SG.

And here's a couple pictures of mine. My idea is to make a "buckle rash" where the crazy filler design is. Thanks.

#3
Oh and another thing. The switch is screwed up and I think that's why I only get sound out of one pickup. Another switch will be extremely hard to find from what I hear. I almost wanna run an SG faded switch but perhaps with a 6 position instead of the stock 5. Does anyone know where I can get an SG faded schematic? Thanks.
#4
cant say i'm crazy about the faded white- just a personal thing-- if it were my guitar i'd keep a natural finish

just food for thought
#5
Quote by Recondite Blue
is it an actual 68?
if so dont mess with it

Yeah, it's an actual '68. It's not worth much because of the finish issue, but I'd prefer to have something on it. It's been hacked up a bit with the inlays. I couldn't find a set of the original tuners so I decided to ream the headstock for new Grover tuners, which apparently are better than the stock ones. It plays like a dream though, and apparently has "fretless wonder" frets.
#6
is this a reissue like in the picture above, or is it an original '68?

edit: beaten to it
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#7
Tung oil it. it'll look killer.
Also: may we see the front?
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#8
if it's an original '68, don't touch it. although the finish has already been messed with, DON'T TOUCH IT! guitar are ALWAYS worth more, with age, if you just leave them alone. can we have pics of the front?

EDIT: beaten to question for front shots :P
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#9
Yeah I had a whole thread on here about a year ago or something. I just need SOMETHING over the raw wood, you know? I thought about a tung oil finish. I've taken a lot of frowns and a lot of weird looks with this guitar. It has a lot of sentimental value to me, however I'm not sure what my dad was trying to achieve. His friend said that he painted it a bunch of times but never was quite happy with it and apparently always wanted the cherry look. I happen to like the white, makes it look more elegant. Anyway, here is my old thread I made, apparently Photobucket isn't working.
https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=675868&page=2&pp=20
#11
yeah i think u should leave it natural, or at least tung oil it. it'll look nice, + it wont kill the value too much. how'd u get it? it's probably worth alot
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#12
Wow so you had a '68 SG and you did THAT to it? You are not a smart person are you?


Unless it came that way... either way anyone who ****s up a '68 SG deserves to die, in my honest opinion.
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#13
Yeah it came that way, it has a long story. Pretty much my dad bought it in the early '70s from a hippie guy at some bar. The guy was pretty drunk or something and decided to sell it to my dad, well he ended up going to this weird trashy house to grab the gig bag. The guitar had inlay work done very badly, the finish was beat up all over and sanded in places, the guitar looks to be reamed out where the electronics go, the switch hole had been all jacked up and filled in completely, and someone cracked it next to the horn. I had a professional repair the crack, I reamed the holes, someone told me where to put the switch but it was the wrong place so I decided to take a chunk of mahogany and fill it all in and put the hole in the right place.
#14
It looks ugly now but people always seem to wonder what the story is with this guitar. I took it to Guitar Center once and everyone in there crowded me. I do have all the original hardware and electronics, it's taken apart now. I'm really liking that tung oil you people mentioned, I was debating if I should do that in a similar thread. Easy to remove compared to paint if I decide to paint it too. Should I tung oil the whole thing or just the neck?
Last edited by PhoenixFear at May 29, 2008,
#17
I don't think the filler will come off. It's all sanded down evenly if that's what you mean.
#18
What would tung oil do with the filler? And how can tung oil be removed in case I wanna put a paint job on later?
#19
you wont want to. once its oiled up, its gonna look fresh as ****! lol
Peavey XXX combo *upgraded screen resistors, Tung-Sol's, and 6L6's*
Schecter Syn Std. * modded, scalloped, and worn*
Schecter C-1 Elite *still sexy*
Ibanez AEL 12-string

"He who sticks his dick in peanut butter is fucking nuts"
#21
well id say just paint it satin or semi gloss and then just take a bit of san paper to it, a fine grit though
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#22
Ok so I just tung oiled it, waiting for it to dry. What if I wanna paint it later on though? What would I do? I'm still kinda wanting the faded white, putting a "buckle rash" on the back where the sunrise inlay is to make it show, and then putting a rash on the neck and tung oiling that. Either that or just glossing it/staining it cherry and glossing it but wearing it out.
#24
Leave it as is. It looks gruff.
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#26
Well I went to Ace Hardware and picked up Formby's High Gloss tung oil. I looked up an old tung oil thread in here and found someone mentioned high gloss so I decided to go with it. I only rubbed on one coat with a plain red rag, although I should use a t-shirt or cotton cloth probably. I'll plan on two coats but right now it's drying.
I gotta get a new pick guard, I plan on making another one like I made for my Explorer bass, however I need to know where to get the right plastic.
#27
danish oil mixed with polyurethane. makes the wood harder, and the poly helps build it up on the surface. make sure its oil based poly. that thing is really damn ugly. i would fill in all that ****, re-route the humbuckers, paint it a solid color. but thats just me.

to buff that tung oil out, you want to get some non-abrasive pads (not steel wool).

Let the first coat sit over night, and make it heavy, use the non-abrasive to get the grime off the surface. re apply 2 or 3 coats. wait 2 or 3 minutes after you whipe it on, and then go through and white it off. I use blue work-shop paper towells, they work excellently. but remember the oil job is only as good as your sanding job


for the pickguard, you can get pickguard blanks from ebay/stewmac/warmoth.
Last edited by LP Addict at May 31, 2008,
#28
Quote by LP Addict
danish oil mixed with polyurethane. makes the wood harder, and the poly helps build it up on the surface. make sure its oil based poly. that thing is really damn ugly. i would fill in all that ****, re-route the humbuckers, paint it a solid color. but thats just me.

to buff that tung oil out, you want to get some non-abrasive pads (not steel wool).

Let the first coat sit over night, and make it heavy, use the non-abrasive to get the grime off the surface. re apply 2 or 3 coats. wait 2 or 3 minutes after you whipe it on, and then go through and white it off. I use blue work-shop paper towells, they work excellently. but remember the oil job is only as good as your sanding job


for the pickguard, you can get pickguard blanks from ebay/stewmac/warmoth.

I wanted to paint it the original white but I'm having issues, since StewMac is the only place I know of to get the paint. I'd like to just get it at a store. It's either that or... some other color.
#29
Bottom line, I'd like this tung oil to be temporary until I figure all this out. I still want it to be a beat up look, so I figured a faded look would be best. The reason why is because it won't be hard to paint it, it still will look good all scruffed, and I can tung oil the worn stuff.
#32
I could just sand and then take some thinner or naphtha solvent to it and then go on with painting it, right?
#33
no, not steel wool. non-abrasive pads. you can get them at the local hardware store. steel wool is pretty much the worst thing you can use on wood, i have come to discover that lately. non-abrasive pads are the best, no doubt. if you plan on doing a color, i recommend you stop oiling it. if you want to keep the oil, keep oiling it.
#34
Quote by LP Addict
i would fill in all that ****, re-route the humbuckers, paint it a solid color. but thats just me.


Same here, I like your faded white plan much better.
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#35
Quote by LP Addict
no, not steel wool. non-abrasive pads. you can get them at the local hardware store. steel wool is pretty much the worst thing you can use on wood, i have come to discover that lately. non-abrasive pads are the best, no doubt. if you plan on doing a color, i recommend you stop oiling it. if you want to keep the oil, keep oiling it.

For polishing? I've gotten great results, and that's what I've read a lot of people do.


As far as painting over it, do some research into finishing a guitar. Finishing a guitar and making it have a glossy and protective coat is different than painting it...
#36
I would paint it but I have no idea where to get the paint at stores around here. I called a lot of guitar stores, they "think" it is at Sherwin Williams or some furniture place. So I drove there and nobody has anything like that. I'm gonna call up Sherwin Williams Automotive tomorrow and see if they might have some auto paint. It's gonna be faded so it's not like it has to be all glossed up or high end. I just want the nitro.
Last edited by PhoenixFear at May 31, 2008,
#37
Would it be possible to just go to Autozone and get the Duplicolor spray auto lacquer? Or the "paint shop" quarts they have?
#39
Painting isn't exactly the same thing as finishing when it comes to guitar. After you paint it your desired color, you'll need to clear coat it with some sort of hard-finishing lacquer.

You should be able to find Krylon acrylic lacquer at one of your local stores. make sure it's the one for wood...I'm not exactly sure which it is. Ask this user named 'Ippon', no apostrophes in his username. Just PM him. He's done several wonderful refinishes using acrylic lacquer.
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