#1
Hi,
I've gotten frustrated with the cost of attenuators with a lot of bells and whistles that I don't need, so I designed a few much simpler and cost-effective options. I'd like to know what you guys would like in a less expensive attenuator. I might sell them if there's enough interest. It would help me immensely if you'd answer the following questions (please don't respond if you wouldn't use an attenuator) :
1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator?
2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design?
3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option?
4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option?
5. How many watts is your amp?
6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output?
7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances?
8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)?
9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10?

Any additional ideas or comments on what you'd like in an attenuator are more than welcome. I'm just trying to figure out pricing and interest. If you want to be a guinea pig, let me know and perhaps I'll build you one for a reduced price.

*Very simple = tuned to one impedance, on/off switch, one or two attenuation level options, treble boost option.
Last edited by Roc8995 at Jun 1, 2008,
#2
1) most certainely yes
2)possibly
3)no
4)no (but im not a big fan of high basses)
5)15, but soon to be 50, possibly 100
6)yes
Gear
Epiphone Les Paul Special 2
ESP EX-400
Roland Cube-15
Bugera 6260 head
Home made 2x12 loaded with celestion G12t-100s


OPETH FTW
#3
1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator? I'd probably want variable attenuation but at that price it'd be hard to say no/
2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design? Yes
3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option? No
4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option? Probably not
5. How many watts is your amp? 50
6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output? No, but I can certainly see a market for it.



EDIT: Adding the new questions.

7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances? No
8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)? 8
9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10? No, because I wouldn't need one.
A dwarf might hear you. What then?

My Music
Last edited by timi_hendrix at Jun 1, 2008,
#4
1) assuming 50W works with my 15W amp, yes
2) probably. call it $10?
3) no
4) yea
5) 15W (still loud )
6) tbh for an extra £5 i'd spring for the fancy one

sounds good!

dont forget to ship to the UK



EDIT: 7) no

8) i have a socket marked "extension cab- 8-16 ohms"

9) wouldnt need one
Get off this damn forum and play your damn guitar.
Last edited by stevo_epi_SG_wo at Jun 1, 2008,
#5
I added a couple questions.
Stevo: a 50W attenuator would work with your 15W amp. I might even make a 25 attenuator for a little less, so that everyone with a blackheart/VJ/BJ/tiny terror can have one for a little less.
I'll ship to the UK, I know you guys get screwed for attenuators over there, so I will definitely make a point of making them available for you.
#6
1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator?
A: Yes, I would

2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design?
A: 15 dollars for an option like that would be a good deal.

3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option?
A: Yes

4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option?
A: More bass=better for me, so yes. I think a treble boost would be useful too.

5. How many watts is your amp?
A: I have a pair of 50 watt amps.

6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output?
A: Yes, I would.

7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances?
A. It'd be nice.

8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)?
A 16 and an 8 ohm.

9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10?
A: Yes, and yes.

If you make a good product, i'll for sure get one!
It needs to be able to handle my higher wattage amps though.

What attenuation design would you use? Would you use a resistor design, or a speaker motor?
Call me Wes.
Gear:
Fender American Deluxe HSS Strat
Chicago Blues Box Roadhouse
Bad Cat Cougar 5
1957 Gibson GA-5
Ceriatone 18w TMB Combo
Hughes & Kettner Tube Factor
Various Ibanez TS9s
Weber MASS Attenuator
Last edited by darkarbiter7 at Jun 1, 2008,
#7
I just want an attenuator with a volume control personally.
Maybe switchable impedence. I don't really care for treble and bass boost.

1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator?
A: Yes

2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design?
A: Maybe

3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option?
A: no

4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option?
A: no, probably not

5. How many watts is your amp?
A: 30, 15 and 50

6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output?
A: Yes

7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances?
A. I think so

8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)?
A 16

9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10?
A: Yup

if you do make an attenuator that is that cheap (But is good) I would definetly buy it.
#8
1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator?
I would like one in 100 watts, but yeah, I would pay 40 bucks.

2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design?
Yeah

3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option?
Most Likely not, but I would have to see

4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option?
Depends

5. How many watts is your amp?
100

6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output?
Most likely not, I wouldn't need one

7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances?
Yeah

8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't
have a selector)?
4/8/16

9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10?
Yeah

Comments: I would like one with a speaker motor.
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#9
I can easily make one for higher wattage, I didn't include it in the survey because I figured if people need them, I'll make them. It would only be a little more, maybe $15 extra for a 150W model. The way I designed these attenuators is using a purely resistive load. I think if I put some time and money into figuring out which components to use and how to tune them properly that these will work just as well for a lower price. I would be willing to use the speaker motor as an option, but the stock design is an improved resistor attenuator.

Edit: lots of interest in the speaker motors. I will have to pick some up and experiment with them. I can't find any on the Weber site, anyone have a link?
Last edited by Roc8995 at Jun 1, 2008,
#10
Quote by Roc8995
I can easily make one for higher wattage, I didn't include it in the survey because I figured if people need them, I'll make them. It would only be a little more, maybe $15 extra for a 150W model. The way I designed these attenuators is using a purely resistive load. I think if I put some time and money into figuring out which components to use and how to tune them properly that these will work just as well for a lower price. I would be willing to use the speaker motor as an option, but the stock design is an improved resistor attenuator.

Edit: lots of interest in the speaker motors. I will have to pick some up and experiment with them. I can't find any on the Weber site, anyone have a link?


so....this is £20 for a resistor in a box? 0_o
Get off this damn forum and play your damn guitar.
#11
1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator? Yes.
2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design? I would not.
3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option? I would not.
4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option? I would not.
5. How many watts is your amp? 120/100/33/20
6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output? Definitally.
7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances? Yes, but I swap amps around a bit.
8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)? 4/8/8
9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10? $15 is reasonable, on the $30 dollar fixed cut model.
#12
Quote by stevo_epi_SG_wo
so....this is £20 for a resistor in a box? 0_o

Here are my expenses:
The resistors (yes, more than one) come to around $9-$21 depending on the type I choose. These are not the little resistors you find in your pedals, they're aluminum sealed mil-spec wirewound behemoths. That price is for an attenuator with a high and low setting.
The switch for the high/low setting is $3
The treble boost cap and switch are $2.50
The jacks are $1 each
The box (unfinished) is $10, painting them will cost aobut $3-5 per unit.
So after shipping, I will be losing money on the first few units. Then there's the money I'm spending to buy a boatload of resistors to tune these properly so they sound good, and the time I'm spending to design and build them. Have you ever looked inside a hotplate? It's resistors in a box, and they charge you a hell of a lot more. The speaker motors aren't magic, they just replace one of the resistors. I'd be glad to charge you more for one with a speaker motor, but if I can make one that's 90% as good for 60% of the price (speaker motors are expensive and hard to find), then I've done my job.
I realize that it seems like a lot for what seems like a simple thing, but this is honestly the lowest I can possibly charge and not lose money on the deal. I think I can make some really nice, cheap attenuators- that's all. I'm not going to turn a big profit on this.
#14
Alright, cool.
But, I really wouldn't mind paying a bit more for one with a speaker motor.

But, do what you want. I'll probably buy one nonetheless, especially at such a good price.
Call me Wes.
Gear:
Fender American Deluxe HSS Strat
Chicago Blues Box Roadhouse
Bad Cat Cougar 5
1957 Gibson GA-5
Ceriatone 18w TMB Combo
Hughes & Kettner Tube Factor
Various Ibanez TS9s
Weber MASS Attenuator
#15
Yeah, I was shocked too- I mean, you'd think something that simple would be cheap. The box is the biggest expense, I'm going to see if I can get something uglier and cheaper and then distract you with a swirly/shiny paint job. The other issue is that these things throw off a fair amount of heat, and I can't get a slick hotplate-style venting system, so I have to use a metal enclosure for the heatsink properties.

The human time and effort are easily overlooked too-
As Zachary Vex once said, "You're made out of about $4.50 worth of chemicals. The knobs on that [fuzz factory] unit alone are worth as much as you are."

Update on speaker motors: They don't seem to be available through Weber anymore, I'll email Ted to see if I can get some. Unfortunately that means that they will not be cheap. I think what I'll do is buy 3 or 4 and then tune the resistor models to match the speaker motors as best I can, then if I haven't gotten close enough I'll offer ones with the motor.
Last edited by Roc8995 at Jun 1, 2008,
#16
Quote by darkarbiter7
Alright, cool.
But, I really wouldn't mind paying a bit more for one with a speaker motor.

But, do what you want. I'll probably buy one nonetheless, especially at such a good price.


Seconded if you can build me one with a speaker motor for under $100 for my 100W (or even 50W, I could just run it in half power mode) Carvin V3 I will literally buy it right this second

If not I can live without the speaker motor as long as it doesn't suck the tone of my amp.


1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator?
Definitely
2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design?
Yes
3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option?
No
4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option?
Yes
5. How many watts is your amp?
100W with available half power mode
6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output?
Yes
7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances?
No
8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)?
16ohm
9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10?
Yes

I'll probably forget about this thread but if you decide to start selling these please PM me.
#17
Would the 50w attenuator work on my 40w tube amp or does it have to be rated twice the wattage?
Anyway if it works on both my 40w and 5w tube amp, all i need is a volume control or the most basic function, and i'd definitely pay the money you are asking!
#20
^That just reduces the signal from the preamp so it still won't work the power valves and sound cranked. You can do the exact same thing with an EQ pedal or even a Tube Screamer type pedal with Drive and Level at 0.

1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator?
Yeah but I'd really want variable attenuation
2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design?
$55 is still cheap so yup
3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option?
I'd experiment with it but I wouldn't miss it
4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option?
Probably
5. How many watts is your amp?
40
6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output?
Yes if there was no variable option
7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances?
Not at the moment but could be useful in the future
8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)?
8Ω - think I can do 16Ω as well
9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10?
If I needed it yes, at the moment no

It would depend on shipping prices to UK as well. I'd also want to see comprehensive video demos.
American Deluxe maple board Strat
Hot Rod Deluxe
Fulltone Fulldrive II mosfet
Last edited by pEdAl2 at Jun 1, 2008,
#21
1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator?
A: Yes

2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design?
A: Yeah probably

3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option?
A: Yes

4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option?
A: Yeah would be good to play with sounds

5. How many watts is your amp?
A: 15W

6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output?
A: Yes

7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances?
A. No

8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)?
A 8/16 Ohms

9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10?
A: Probably Yes

I don't know if this is attenuators, but I rember seeing a video of ETiD recording guitars and they had a speaker cab connected as a load to the amp, but just used a direct out from the head to the mixing desk, is that a line-out in an attenuator?
#22
Quote by iamtompublic

I don't know if this is attenuators, but I rember seeing a video of ETiD recording guitars and they had a speaker cab connected as a load to the amp, but just used a direct out from the head to the mixing desk, is that a line-out in an attenuator?

Yes, that's what a line-out would be used for. They're great for recording, I could do a custom attenuator with a "mute cab" function too if you wanted to record silently.
Quote by stewart91

No, that's the opposite of what I'm doing. That is a single $3 volume pot in a box. It goes in the effects loop and works as a (bad) master volume. You cannot put it between the amp and the speaker to get power tube saturation. It's just a volume knob. I could make you one of those for about $10.
#23
Quote by Roc8995

No, that's the opposite of what I'm doing. That is a single $3 volume pot in a box. It goes in the effects loop and works as a (bad) master volume. You cannot put it between the amp and the speaker to get power tube saturation. It's just a volume knob. I could make you one of those for about $10.


Yeah thats what i thought that stupid thing did, and i was like wait thats not really an attenuator at all! lol
#24
Quote by stevo_epi_SG_wo
so....this is £20 for a resistor in a box? 0_o
High wattage resistors cost a lot. Each resistor in my attenuator that is homemade cost £4 for 38w ones, and that's fixed at 12dB.
The Laney Thread are big and clever. No exceptions.
#25
Quote by Roc8995
Yes, that's what a line-out would be used for. They're great for recording, I could do a custom attenuator with a "mute cab" function too if you wanted to record silently.


Oh man, that would be awesome!

If it's cheaper than a hotplate and has that built in I'll buy one straight away.
#26
To be honest, I've never seen the point of an attenuator. Is it really better at lower volumes? And doesn't it strain the power tubes? If you can design one that has no (or less) negative effects on the amp, then I'd buy one tomorrow. Anyway, I'll answer your questions:

1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator?
Yes, if it had no (or significantly less) negative effects. Also assuming a 50w attenuator works with a 50w amp.

2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design?
Yes.

3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option?
Yes.

4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option?
Nope.

5. How many watts is your amp?
50w

6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output?
although $30/£15 is ridiculously cheap, I'd want one with more variance.

7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances?
Yes, just so I could transfer it to other amps.

8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)?
16 Ohm atm, but I'd also like an 8 Ohm option.

9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10?
Probably, just so I could transfer to other amps.
...
#27
Quote by bartdevil_metal
To be honest, I've never seen the point of an attenuator. Is it really better at lower volumes? And doesn't it strain the power tubes? If you can design one that has no (or less) negative effects on the amp, then I'd buy one tomorrow.

Attenuators are good for lowering the overall volume of the amp, and usually do sound better for overdriven tones. They are very effective when balanced properly with your gain and volume controls.
The attenuator itself has no ill effects on the amp. In fact, running your amp into a resistive load is safer than a speaker, since it doesn't change impedance over different frequencies the way a speaker does. The things you hear about regarding strain on the power tubes is because you're turning the amp up much higher than you usually would. It's exactly the same as playing your amp loudly (which it was designed to do), just easier on your ears.
Since there are still concerns about the amp's health while running the attenuator, I did incorporate some safety features in the attenuator:
-Higher ratings for all components, so it's impossible to blow up unless you really try;
-Purely resistive load is easier on your transformers and power tubes;
-Very close impedance matching. Some attenuators overlook or downplay this and you end up with a mismatched impedance, which can strain the transformers; and
-Parallel resistors in the 50 and 100 watt models will save your amp from blowing up if your speaker, cable, or one of the resistors dies.
So yes, an attenuator can cause strain on your amp, but only because it's allowing you to do so. The unit itself does not and will not cause any harm to your amp if used properly.
#28
1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator?
Yes.
2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design?
Yes.
3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option?
Yes.
4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option?
Don't know, is it necessary?
5. How many watts is your amp?
50.
6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output?
Yes.
7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances?
Yes.
8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)?
4, 16 ohms.
9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10?
Yes.
#30
I Have a question. When I want to play at low volumes I leave all my amp settings the same but just turn down the volume on one of my pedals.Have recorded numerous things like this and they all sound just fine.Am I missing something?
Tom Anderson Hollow Classic
72 thin line tele

Barber trifecta fuzz
Mi audio Crunch Box
Clyde Wah
Barber Burn Unit
Ocean efx Texas deuce
Boomerang chorus delay
Barber ltd


1971 Pro reverb
Fender acoustasonic
Fender super champ xd
#31
1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator?
No
2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design?
Yes
3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option?
Yes, but not very often
4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option?
No
5. How many watts is your amp?
18 and 30
6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output?
No
7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances?
Yes
8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)?
16 and sometimes 8 ohms
9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10?
Yes
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#32
Quote by modernp
I Have a question. When I want to play at low volumes I leave all my amp settings the same but just turn down the volume on one of my pedals.Have recorded numerous things like this and they all sound just fine.Am I missing something?

Yes, you're missing preamp distortion. With the kind of amps that you're using, that's probably not a big deal- I've done the same thing a lot and it does work very well. What works for you doesn't work for people with, say, a Peavey. They have a lot of preamp distortion and reducting the input volume that much makes for a brittle sound. Attenuators let you mix both preamp and power amp distortion, since the only thing that's being changed is the wattage the speaker sees (ideally). So yes, the pedal thing works, but this works better. How much better (or even better at all) depends on your rig and how you use it.
I would suggest that people try that method first though- it is free, after all. I use it myself sometimes. The attenuator is just a more elaborate and hopefully effective solution to the same problem.

Regarding when these will be available: I'm getting enough parts for a test run of 5-6 different iterations of the circuit, so I'd say those will be done in two weeks or less. I have one person signed up for a 100W prototype, which should be on a similar schedule. At that point I'll order enough for a whole bunch of them and start doing them full-scale with next-day shipping on stock orders, maybe 2 days for custom orders if I have the parts in stock.
#33
Quote by Roc8995
Attenuators are good for lowering the overall volume of the amp, and usually do sound better for overdriven tones. They are very effective when balanced properly with your gain and volume controls.
The attenuator itself has no ill effects on the amp. In fact, running your amp into a resistive load is safer than a speaker, since it doesn't change impedance over different frequencies the way a speaker does. The things you hear about regarding strain on the power tubes is because you're turning the amp up much higher than you usually would. It's exactly the same as playing your amp loudly (which it was designed to do), just easier on your ears.
Since there are still concerns about the amp's health while running the attenuator, I did incorporate some safety features in the attenuator:
-Higher ratings for all components, so it's impossible to blow up unless you really try;
-Purely resistive load is easier on your transformers and power tubes;
-Very close impedance matching. Some attenuators overlook or downplay this and you end up with a mismatched impedance, which can strain the transformers; and
-Parallel resistors in the 50 and 100 watt models will save your amp from blowing up if your speaker, cable, or one of the resistors dies.
So yes, an attenuator can cause strain on your amp, but only because it's allowing you to do so. The unit itself does not and will not cause any harm to your amp if used properly.


Ah, in that case I really don't have a problem with attenuators at all. I was under the misconception that an attenuator hasthe same effect as a speaker mismatch and that it wore out power tubes faster. I also like the idea of more accurate impedance matching, as this is a problem i've heard about from people who use attenuators.

EDIT: Also, what form were you going into with this? What will it look like?

EDIT2: Sorry, typo. I meant what "form". Srsly, I grammer gud.
...
Last edited by bartdevil_metal at Jun 2, 2008,
#34
I'm doing it because I feel like doing something useful. I already have a decent job, so this is just something to do for fun. I figure I'll make a few bucks which I'll reinvest into some more elaborate designs or cooler enclosures.
They'll be fairly small. They will be in an enclosure roughly the size of a standard EH pedal, with some vents on the sides and top to dissipate heat. Speaker motor models will be slightly larger. For now, I'll finish them in a standard matte black or blue, something simple and easy to apply. Hopefully at some point I'll be able to offer some custom paint jobs. I have a good friend who is an incredible artist and has done some work on pedals for me in the past, so if you wanted something really custom or cool looking I'm sure he could handle it. Basically, I can make it as cool looking as you want, but it will cost more.
#35
Thanks with the Rivera it has a powered effects loop so I use that as an atenuator. I did it the other way with my twins.
Tom Anderson Hollow Classic
72 thin line tele

Barber trifecta fuzz
Mi audio Crunch Box
Clyde Wah
Barber Burn Unit
Ocean efx Texas deuce
Boomerang chorus delay
Barber ltd


1971 Pro reverb
Fender acoustasonic
Fender super champ xd
#36
1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator? Hell to the Yeah
2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design? Yes, you still got the minimass beat in that range
3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option? No, my amp has it not to mention I don't see the use
4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option? No, I have enough bass on tap, maybe good for the metal fans, though, why do they need an attenuator
5. How many watts is your amp? 30
6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output? The price is hard to beat, but no. I like to use my attenuator, but sometimes I need it very quiet, or when no one is here I turn it up louder
7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances? I don't, but I could see the need
8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)? My F-30 has 1 8ohm out and 2 4ohm outs and a line level out
9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10? I wouldn't but I guess I could see the market

Definitely needs a treble booster. I found the 0,+3db, and +6db on the minimass is very effective and very useful. When totally attenuated I use the +6db. When I crank it up I just use the +3. I can tell that theres a loss of bass but it's not as noticeable or troublesome to me.
I don't give a shit if you listen to me or not
Last edited by Kevin Saale at Jun 1, 2008,
#37
1. Would you pay $40 for a very simple* 50W attenuator? absolutely
2. Would you pay an extra $15 for a variable attenuation design? yes
3. Would you use a line-out, if it were available as an option? probably not
4. Would you pay $5 for a bass boost option? yes
5. How many watts is your amp? 30-35
6. Would you pay $30 for an attenuator that simply cut the volume to 1/10 (or whatever number you chose) the original output?yes
7. Would you need an attenuator that could switch impedances?it'd be helpful
8. What impedance(s) are the amps you would use your attenuator with (if they don't have a selector)?16
9. Would you pay an extra $15 for a 4/8/16 ohm selector? How about $10? yes
Ibanez AFS75/Fender Strat Plus > Fulltone Deja' Vibe > Keeley TS808 MOD+ > Fulltone OCD > VanAmps SoleMate > Metro JTM45
#38
Quote by modernp
Thanks with the Rivera it has a powered effects loop so I use that as an atenuator. I did it the other way with my twins.

I'll be back in madison in the fall- I'll bring you one to try out. I think I still have your number somewhere.