#1
I finished painting my les paul project yesterday, about 4 coats of black, and possibly upwards of 8 coats of clear satin urethane.
however there is a little overspray on the top surfaces causing it to be rough.
what should i sand it with to get it back to a nice smooth surface?

also, in the second picture you can see where i tore away at the back of the body behind the neck pocket to give better fret access, as it was a bolt on, now glued in etremely firmly with epoxy :| and 5 screws hidden benether the surface that hold the neck in.




#3
That neck pocket is sexy and very practical.
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#5
It is hard to tell from the pic but it looks like you need some wet sanding and buffing.

Looks good so far
#7
That's pimperific (pimp-er-if-ic), nice. I wish I had something like that...
#8
nah, it's just an allparts neck and body, i think it's mahogany body and neck with a maple veneer top.
i just thought it would be a bit more functional to take some of the wood away and remove the ugly neck anchor plate.

currently waiting for the clearcote to sure and then i can wet sand and buff like senior smiley suggested.
and then i can install the gold gotoh hardware and the guitarfetish hot humbuckers.
#11
that appears to be a very nice paint job no runs and not much orange peel. what did you use to apply the finish?
#12
funnily enough, spray cans.
iv'e worked with heavy machinery before, and alot of the time it involved touch up paint using pressure pack cans.
i also dabble in the art of graffitti every now and then,
i was expecting the worse, but it comes down to can control and patience.

the clear coat is a urethane based substance made by Cabot's (Australia)
i don't know if you would find it elsewhere though.
just waiting for it to cure for wetsanding.

what grit should i use to take away the orange peel effect?
#17
I have an old 70s something Univox Les Paul remake that I got a long time ago. I tried painting it when i was 13 but fkd it up so I sanded it all off and stained it a chestnut color.. 15 yrs later.. present time, I decided it was time to do it for real, professionally. So my first question about your project.

1. Did your guitar have a pinstripe around the body and if so did you just paint over it?
2. Did you sand the old paint off or paint over it too, and what process did you use removing the paint. I read a heat gun works well. But I dont have one. Ive been using a knife and a flat piece of metal shaped like a flat head screw driver that I filed down sharp to scrape it off but its taking forever. First time i did this I used an end grinder with a sandpaper flapper wheel. so the wood has some dents in it (what worked best for you)?
3. Are those your fishing poles on the wall? lol overspray on them would suck.

I thought about taking mine to an auto body shop to have it painted. Also, does anyone think an orbital car buffer would work to buff the clearcoat with maybe a fine wool or cotton pad?
#18
mine did have pinstripe, which is known as binding, but i was siked on the way it would look witha flat finish of this colour

you should sand back to bare wood if the paint is that old, then by a tin of sanding sealer to fill up the wood grain, then sand that smooth aswell.
and using really rough paper until you get it back to bare, then use finer and finer grit so make it smooth bvefore applying sanding sealer.

yes those are my dads fishing poles, although thats just where i hung the guitar to dry, i painted in outside.
#19
That guitar looks mean!
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#22
thanks for the info.
i dont have a digicam but i'll take pics of my univox with my cell phone and possibly make a thread later on. but it will take me a few more weeks (maybe) to complete it.
#23
I thought the fretboard was silver at first
Someone should cover a guitar with tin foil then do a clear coat over it :P
Quote by brandooon
Buy both pickups. Rub icyhot on both of them. Sandwich your penis between them and walk to the nearest homeless shelter with your brand new icyhot penis sandwich.
#24
man my clear coat lacquer shriveled up in 3 or 4 spots on the front of the guitar :/
would it be safe to sand that first coat of clear coat with a 1k or 2k grit paper after a few days then finish it out?
#25
Quote by Stratmaster458
He dude can you give me the link to were you bought the neck and body?

anytime soon man lol plz
#26
ummm, i didn't actually get them via interwebz.
they came through a supplier to music shops in australia called AMS or australia music supplies (duh?)

this is the brand website:
http://www.teamintlco.com/Dr.Parts/

thats about all thinfo i can find that doesn't relate directly to an australian website.
#27
Quote by Dessyfoo
man my clear coat lacquer shriveled up in 3 or 4 spots on the front of the guitar :/
would it be safe to sand that first coat of clear coat with a 1k or 2k grit paper after a few days then finish it out?



if your clear coat is thick enough start wetsanding with about 800, then 1k, then 1500, then 2k, then use a buffing compound to finish it.
#28
Be sure to keep your sand paper really wet when wet sanding. In fact I'd mix in a little dish detergent (dawn) as a good lubricant into the water. Also let your sand paper soak in the water for a good 5-10 minutes before sanding.

If the finish isn't too orange-peely, I'd skip 800 grit and start off at 1000 or 1500 grit. If you end up sanding through your clear coat, it's not that big of a deal, just respray. Don't worry about the finish getting dull when sanding.

With wet sanding you're trying to make the surface flat and dull. As you sand you'll start noticing shiny dots, those are the little dips that cause orange peel, which you're trying to remove. Bringing back the shine is what polish is for.


Car polishing compounds would be fine for a rubbing compound after you finish wet sanding. 3M finesse it II is great stuff. A cotton t-shirt is perfectly fine to use when buffing.
Last edited by earthwormjim at Jun 25, 2008,