#1
Seemed there was not enough interest when i started so i didnt bother documenting process, i just finished the build, the body is a mahogany bottom with a maple/walnut top, the neck is a 5 piece maple neck with a strip of mahogany down the center, Stewmac pick ups, a zebra one in the bridge, black in the neck, scaeller bridge, and sperzel locking tuners. pictures will come when i have time, but i am trying to find out how to lower the action, the bridge is set to the lowest point and its still a good half inch high, its rediculous, the first 5 frets have the action way to low, and the lower frets have it way to fricken high, i am guessing i need a spacer of sorts in the neck pocket?
In order for evil to succeed, good men must do nothing...
#2
sounds like you need a shim in your neck pocket, towards the bridge area. from there, you can raise your bridge and adjust the action/intonation from there!

EDIT: PICS 2 PLZ
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Shwiggity.
#3
if you give me a photobucket account i will :P
In order for evil to succeed, good men must do nothing...
#5
photobucket is free n00b
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#6
okay pics are here...






Only things left is to screw in the pick up switch and throw the wiring together, thats all easy, oh and put in that flippin neck shim...
In order for evil to succeed, good men must do nothing...
#7
There's a major dent in the body. I keep getting drawn to that.

Also the bridge/pickups don't look very straight to me. You gonna paint it?
#8
Seems to me you are using a bridge designed for archtop guitars with a definite neck angle. Your neck has no angle at all as it seems, that's why the ridiculously high action. My suggestion is to rout a cavity for the bridge so it can sit lower. Leave the neck pocket as it is (you'd have to make an angled neck pocket otherwise, which is harder).

Good luck. Looking good.

Edit: Someone may correct me about the bridge type, I am not 100% on that particular Schaller
#9
did you clearcoat it yet? or are you goin' commando on this one?

oh, and i'm kinda feelin' the Stephen Carpenter - like electronics setup, but it seems like it's too far out of the way ergonomically. it's a very looong body shape.

it's unique, congrats

EDIT:

oh yeah, will you be taking that neck joint area down at all? it seems very... sharp, and uncomfortable. maybe round it to give it an AANJ feel?
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Shwiggity.
Last edited by deftonesordie at Jun 27, 2008,
#10
Your neck is bowed, and your truss rod can fix that. Go to the lessons section of this site and there is instructions on how to fix that.
#11
Quote by c_man471
Your neck is bowed, and your truss rod can fix that. Go to the lessons section of this site and there is instructions on how to fix that.


I doubt his neck had the time to get bowed, he just built the thing. I wouldn't mess around with the truss rod if the neck is straight. My guess is that his neck pocket isn't angled for the particular bridge. That can be fixed by either inducing an angle, or lowering the bridge by routing the body.
#12
the neck is not bowed I know how to adjust a truss rod, and looking down it seems perfectly fine, the action is to low at the top of the neck and to high at the bottom of the neck, if what you are saying is true about the bridge, i would need to route an awfully big cavaty for that big momma to sit in, and it would be the biggest pain in the ass to change the strings.
In order for evil to succeed, good men must do nothing...
#13
Quote by GreenTuna
the neck is not bowed I know how to adjust a truss rod, and looking down it seems perfectly fine, the action is to low at the top of the neck and to high at the bottom of the neck, if what you are saying is true about the bridge, i would need to route an awfully big cavaty for that big momma to sit in, and it would be the biggest pain in the ass to change the strings.


That's true... you need to rout for the bridge quite a bit if you leave the neck pocket as is. On the other hand you could try and find a way to give a few degrees of back angle to the neck pocket then you'd only need to rout for the bridge a few millimeters, if any at all.

Or you can find a different bridge. The guitar seems pretty un-playable as it is and given the amount of effort that i'm sure you put in it so far, it's worth the little extra pain to make it right.
#15
Quote by deftonesordie
...

shim..

ftw?



That could work "somewhat", it just wouldn't bring the strings parallel to the fretboard, and the pickups would be struggling to get close to the strings. Maybe a thin shim and a shallow routing for the bridge... I dunno. Any other ideas?
#16
I like the body shape. I can't help you with the action. Anything i say will make a fool of myself.

Gear
Gibson Les Paul Traditional
Carvin V3 and Marhall 1960A cab
2 B.C. Rich Ironbird Pro
Schecter Hellraiser 6
Boss ML-2

#17
Although the shim is a good idea, you are right all its going to is technically put the pick ups even further away from the strings, the bridge is at its lowest setting right now, i think my only option is to route for the bridge and then set the height accordingly, the problem i have with that is how big that fricken thing is and the string change, I am considering buying a hardtail strat style bridge and putting it right between the to posts, and then just filling them with possibly some wood filler
In order for evil to succeed, good men must do nothing...