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#1
14/7/08: Finished Pics on Page 4


Hello ppl. Okay pretty straight forward, ive decided after a long time of coming in to this forum to buy a cheap guitar and mod it. Okay so i bassicaly bought a cheap strat for a about 50 us dollars. When I bought it I did not know what to do, if go with a normal paint, but then I decided to do an EVH style guitar. Im not doing an exact replica, im keeping the colors, but im gonna put a full transparent pickguard instead of the little black portion that eddie had, and im keeping the pups, but im upgrading to a black bridge humbucker, and im painting the neck pup red.
Afterwards im gonna see if i get some schaller locking tuners, hopefully that will enable me to use the whammy bar mildly without detuning.

Here is the guitar


Can a bridge humbucker enter there without routing?


So I sanded down everything , and as you can see, I surpassed the wood?





Any help and advices appreciated,
Hopefully tomorrow ill start the paint with krylon spray, should I fill the holes before painting?


cheers
martin
Last edited by divinorum69 at Jul 14, 2008,
#2
you know, you should sand with the grain
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#3
^ What he said.

Plus you need to sand it more with a finer grit paper. All those scratch marks are probably gonna telegraph right through the paint.
#4
^^^ yea this guys right. That rough wood is gonna soak up wood like a sponge, and that wont look good at all. and you are using a very rough sandpaper for this. i dunno what ure using now, but go way way finer.
EDIT: woops and by wood i mean paint. my bad.
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#5
you dont need to sand with the grain unless you are using like 60-100 grit paper. but go through with 220 and 320 and get rid of those scratches. use a power sander, it will give you a more smooth consistent surface.
#8
Quote by LP Addict
if you did 50, id go with 100 or 120, then 220, etc.


Okay, but if i keep on sanding ill go deeper pasing the wood, did you see the neck pocket image? there is like a strange thing under the wood, maybe some strange composite material, donno.

But I Guess ill just sand the other parts.

please reply
thanks
#11
my friend, if you are going to PLAY this guitar, i strongly recommend you get another body, that MDF will sound terrible, and you can pick up a plain unfinished body for really cheap on the bay. it will be sanded and sealed, ready for any paint you want, for around 80 bucks.
#12
Quote by LP Addict
my friend, if you are going to PLAY this guitar, i strongly recommend you get another body, that MDF will sound terrible, and you can pick up a plain unfinished body for really cheap on the bay. it will be sanded and sealed, ready for any paint you want, for around 80 bucks.


Ive played before, and it did not sound that badd, plus, Im doing this as learning experience. I wish I had ebay here in argentina. Plus In our current economic status, guitars here are three times their price on the US.

Cheers


PS: could a humbucker enter in the bridge cavity?=
Should I fill in the wholes for painting?
#14
Quote by LP Addict
yeah a humbucker will fit. dont fill the holes.

i know of a place in china that ships worldwide.. Eden is the company name.


Anyways, a**holes here will **ck me up with taxes. Please excuse my foul language.

Okay its MDF, which I guess its multilaminated rubishh. Anyways it sounded quite decent. So I guess its okay, anyways Ive read hear a billion times, that the most important thing for tone is the amp right? and my Digitech sort of digitalizes and makes almost every guitar sound the same., hah
#15
yeahi suppose you are correct... that MDF is going to take paint/primer like a bitch though.. be careful in your sanding. if i were you, i would chamfer the insides of the holes ever so slightly with a rat-tail file, or something, just so it doesnt leave a hard edge (Hard finishes such as paint and lacquers and polys HATE hard edges, they have a tendency to peel and crack)
#16
Quote by LP Addict
yeahi suppose you are correct... that MDF is going to take paint/primer like a bitch though.. be careful in your sanding. if i were you, i would chamfer the insides of the holes ever so slightly with a rat-tail file, or something, just so it doesnt leave a hard edge (Hard finishes such as paint and lacquers and polys HATE hard edges, they have a tendency to peel and crack)


thanks for the constant replys, im done for today, im posting progress tommorrow

cheers
#18
Quote by divinorum69
Okay I bought the paint, primer and laquer all in spray, and the special painters masking tape
here it is


Hope itll serve


Sweet!
...
Please do not insinuate anything sexual from that.

Quote by cobain_is_king
If your friends don't like your guitar, cover it in stickers and it'll be teh rawks!
#19
When you sand, wrap the sandpaper around a block of wood (or go to home depot and buy one of the special sanding blocks). This allows all of the sandpaper to contact your surface and not just where you fingers are. It will give a better sanding and smoother job.
#20
Quote by snowjay
When you sand, wrap the sandpaper around a block of wood (or go to home depot and buy one of the special sanding blocks). This allows all of the sandpaper to contact your surface and not just where you fingers are. It will give a better sanding and smoother job.


I know this as i have experience of sanding before, ive sanded my 420 dinghy and my optimist a lot of times. But you know i was sort of in a rush, stupid.
#22
Ive already primed, and masked, and ive started with the red paint. I dont have a picture of the body painted red, ill take one tomorrow. But I do have one from the body primed, all the wood imperfections are very little noticeable ( is this well written? excuse my english, its not my first language)
Anyways



any thoughts?

cheers

Ps: Thought about adding floyd, one inexpensive though, at the local guitar shop they told me that it would cost 170 dollars everything. What da ya think?
#23
Looks good so far!

And the phrase should be "and the wood imperfections are not very noticeable."

You had me fooled that English wasn't your first language!
#24
Looks great so far hopefully the rough sanding doesn't show through the paint.

$170 to get it installed..RIPOFF! You can do it your self. Get the Original Floyd Rose installed your self.

Gear
Gibson Les Paul Traditional
Carvin V3 and Marhall 1960A cab
2 B.C. Rich Ironbird Pro
Schecter Hellraiser 6
Boss ML-2

Last edited by KISSguitarist at Jul 4, 2008,
#25
Quote by KISSguitarist
Looks great so far hopefully the rough sanding doesn't show through the paint.

$170 to get it installed..RIPOFF! You can do it your self. Get the Original Floyd Rose installed your self.


sorry is not 170 is more like 120. The thing is i do not have a router so that complicates things, another is im 15 and dont feel confidence drilling such a big hole, and another thing we are in argentina and an original floyd is a little more expensive here: 330 Us dollars that is about 1000 pesos

okay thanks for the comments!
#26
Personally, I wouldn't give it a floyd rose, it seems kind of counter intuitive to me to spend $170 on a $50 guitar, plus the original had a normal strat whammy (at least, for some part of it's life)

I like the idea of a see through scratchplate though, it's a nice twist - alot of experianced folk complain that loads of people do frankenstrats and it's not an original idea.

EDIT $120, although that does actually sound like an OK deal to me, does that include the whammy Bar itself?

Are you shure it is MDF? you can sand away one of the cavities to check (eg: the spring one at the back)
Last edited by jimRH7 at Jul 4, 2008,
#27
I like this. Your sanding job looks great after being primed. Can't wait to see it finished.
#28
If you make the Floyd dive only then I don't think you need much routing if any done.
#29
I'm pretty sure you need to have a locking nut for the guitar to not go out of tune with a floyd. Locking tuners won't do anything here because it detunes at the nut, not at the tuners (only when you use the floyd, though) However, there are some people who only have locking tuners on their Floyd guitar and it works for them - but those are the exceptional cases.
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#30
Okay, yep its only 120 with installation included. Also Im looking for a dive only floyd so I have more sustain and less chances of detuning, and yes Ill have to add a locking nut. I decided to make a frankenstratt because I had this book "Make Your Own 5150" so it was pretty clear.


Okay pictures of the first red coat. You can see its not an actual repclica of eddie's strat.




cheers thanks for the posts!
#31
Quote by divinorum69
sorry is not 170 is more like 120. The thing is i do not have a router so that complicates things, another is im 15 and dont feel confidence drilling such a big hole, and another thing we are in argentina and an original floyd is a little more expensive here: 330 Us dollars that is about 1000 pesos

okay thanks for the comments!


eBay my friend you will get it their much cheaper. Get a vintage one from the 80's.

You already have the bridge routed for a tremolo so all you need to do is drill 2 holes for the posts.

Gear
Gibson Les Paul Traditional
Carvin V3 and Marhall 1960A cab
2 B.C. Rich Ironbird Pro
Schecter Hellraiser 6
Boss ML-2

#32
*looks really nice!*

I think the floyd on the real one isn't floating either - I would go with non floating, Cos (i imagine) it would be easier to set-up and maintain and less likely to go out of tune, If it's a licenced floyd then making it non-floating might mean alot of the things folk complain about with the licenced ones will be less of a problem.

I was thinking about the locking nut, an alternative might be one of those roller nuts, but a locking nut is probably both cheaper and more sure safe.
#34
Quote by jimRH7
*looks really nice!*

I think the floyd on the real one isn't floating either - I would go with non floating, Cos (i imagine) it would be easier to set-up and maintain and less likely to go out of tune, If it's a licenced floyd then making it non-floating might mean alot of the things folk complain about with the licenced ones will be less of a problem.

I was thinking about the locking nut, an alternative might be one of those roller nuts, but a locking nut is probably both cheaper and more sure safe.



Best is regular locking nut
#35
Use American eBay..You make it hard for me to suggest things don't you?

Ask if they will ship to you, they usually ship worldwide.

Gear
Gibson Les Paul Traditional
Carvin V3 and Marhall 1960A cab
2 B.C. Rich Ironbird Pro
Schecter Hellraiser 6
Boss ML-2

#36
Quote by KISSguitarist
Use American eBay..You make it hard for me to suggest things don't you?

Ask if they will ship to you, they usually ship worldwide.



shipping things from Usa to Argentina is a pain in the ass. Private delivery by DHL, Fedex etc. are way expensive, and regular US post will be transfered to argentina's post mail when it arrives here, and they screw you with taxes. So its easiear to buy it here and it will save you money from private shipping, or months of waiting from the national post.

Sorry if you got annoied
#37
Quote by divinorum69
Best is regular locking nut


I agree.

But i'm sure my local music shop sells stuff like roller nuts etc. , if not, you could ask them to order it in for you, I'm pretty sure most shops do that kind of thing, apart from like the big chain store guitar shops maybe.
#38
My father bouht me a humbucker ( thanks!), black for the bridge. Brand: Lace

price: 50$

I pulled over the masking tapes after applying for coats of red, this is the result




I have some bleeds, and some imperfections, im gonna see if I remove them or not,(they are very little)

any tips on removing bleeds apart from Exacto knife and sanding paper??

cheers
#40
You have to fix those bleeds but besides that, it looks nice.

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