Page 1 of 3
#1
OK, before you go any further, expect this project to move verrry slowly and even altogether (like my last one).

I've thought to myself that if I didn't do an LP, I'd do a Telecaster, and I'm going to start a Tele build. I bidded for a neck from eBay (don't wanna show y'all coz I dunno if you wanna try and win it, hope you understand, I'll post it if I win ) and I will, hopefully, buy some wood next week when I go up to my relatives' place. A friend said that for his first guitar, he just bought some radiata pine mainly because it was cheapish and it was going to be painted anyways. What do you all think of that choice of wood?
#2
i think.. dont cheap out because if it comes out awesome then youll be mad cuz it sounds like poop
#3
I wouldn't recommend it. Pine isn't a very strong wood compared to most, and not a very good tone wood either (it's the cheapest wood available, and even Squier and Epiphone wont touch it!). Raw wood is cheap, just buy some alder, ash, or spruce for a tele.
Suhr Custom, Flaxwood Rautia or Grosh Tele thru
HBE Medicine Bawl Wah
Analogman BiComp
Texas Two Step OD
Fulltone Ultimate Octave/Fuzz
Boss CE-2
TC Nova Delay
SLO-100, 65 London or Bogner Shiva
Ask me about any of this stuff!
#4
Quote by 6-string-yay
i think.. dont cheap out because if it comes out awesome then youll be mad cuz it sounds like poop


Yeah good point.

Anyone think it's a total sellout if I just buy the body as well and put it all together? I guess I'm doing the electronics myself and I'll probably change the finish on the body if I buy one. Ops?

Quote by handlerb
I wouldn't recommend it. Pine isn't a very strong wood compared to most, and not a very good tone wood either (it's the cheapest wood available, and even Squier and Epiphone wont touch it!). Raw wood is cheap, just buy some alder, ash, or spruce for a tele.


You don't know where to get some do you? I've been searching everywhere for wood that isn't on sites like stewmac and warmoth (mainly because I live in Aust and shipping price is a bitch)
Last edited by kenan6346 at Jul 1, 2008,
#8
Quote by 6-string-yay
no, if u buy a put together kit, atleast youll learn how to put on necks and stuff like that


Yeah good point. I think for this project I'll just bum out and buy all the parts and assemble them. Hopefully I'll get the neck (if I win), then I'll get the body when I've got some extra cash (yes I'm that pov that I can't even afford to buy both together even though the only thing I need to pay for is shipping )
#11
yes! pine tele ftw!!!! go for it, you won't be disappointed in the least with the tone of a pine body, just listen to lp addict, thats the best advice you could get for making a pine guitar.
#12
Can I just say that I think Pine is a good choice. The Esquire's, early one's, were made of pine and I think that some Nocasters and Broadcasters were too. It's a very resonant wood and would be cool for use in a project.

May I suggest too that you think about making an Esquire rip-off rather than a Tele. They're very cool guitars
Ibanez PGM301
Ibanez GRG170DX
Fender Telecaster MiJ - 1986
Swing T-Through

Ibanez TS9DX
Sovtek Small Stone - c.1985
EHX Big Muff
Kimbara Wah - c.1974
Boss GE-7

Orange Rocker 30 Combo

http://www.myspace.com/paythelay
#13
Quote by LP Addict
dont listen to these goons, pine is the most acoustic wood, when you make your bolt-on neck you have to use machine screws and put threaded inserts into the body.


Thanks for that telling me about the pine, but the rest confused me; is the process of attaching a bolt-on neck to a pine body different to what it would be if it were an ash or alder body? Or is it the same basic procedure? (Sorry if this a dumb question). And by most acoustic wood you mean that it resonates the most out of any of the other guitar woods?

Quote by rednwhiteblues
yes! pine tele ftw!!!! go for it, you won't be disappointed in the least with the tone of a pine body, just listen to lp addict, thats the best advice you could get for making a pine guitar.


Thanks, do you have any suggestions of what pine I should go for?

Quote by Kurapica
Can I just say that I think Pine is a good choice. The Esquire's, early one's, were made of pine and I think that some Nocasters and Broadcasters were too. It's a very resonant wood and would be cool for use in a project.

May I suggest too that you think about making an Esquire rip-off rather than a Tele. They're very cool guitars


Cheers, Esquires were the original Teles with just one bridge pickup, weren't they? If they were, I reckon I'd go for the Tele because I like 2 pickups.

So basically where I'm at is what type of pine should I use for the body (the "radiata pine" or a different type), if I should go Tele or Esquire and should I do a maple or rosewood fretboard?
#14
Don't buy pine from home depot or lowes, make sure you buy wood that is dried. When you buy woods from lowes or home depot they are green woods which are good for construction and most other projects but are no good for guitars because they are prone to warping.
#15
Quote by carousel182
Don't buy pine from home depot or lowes, make sure you buy wood that is dried. When you buy woods from lowes or home depot they are green woods which are good for construction and most other projects but are no good for guitars because they are prone to warping.


Thanks for that. Do you know where I can buy the wood from? Is any pine OK?
#16
as far as the US is concerned ive heard white pine is the best, unfortunately i don't know what the Aussie equivalent to that is, maybe someone else can tell you.
#17
I actually don't have any experience with using pine for guitar, but I'd try to find a local lumber yard with some kiln dried pine (I have no idea what you guys have in australia) but almost any species should be okay.
#18
I know a bit about would (both from guitars and from working in the furniture industry). Quality pine sounds great. It's warm and mellow. It probably makes the best speaker cabs and it's good for acoustic guitars. But the down side is that it is a soft wood. So it will dent much more easily than ash or alder. Because pine is soft, you have to reinforce your neck screws as LP Addict said. You put threaded inserts (sometimes called t-nuts) in the body so that the screws don't strip the wood. Pine is not usually very attractive, so it's not the best for transparent finishes.
#19
the pine at LOWES, the select-pine IS kiln dried... you probably dont have lowes there...

i love knotty pine, nothing screams "WOOD!" like knotty-pine.

and too the wood-stripping the body because of screws thing... you dont want the screw to EVER screw INTO your body, you will never get your neck on tight enough. you make the screw holes in the body one size larger than your bolt so it fits sorta snug, but spins freely. a neck plate should suffice to balance out the hundreds of pounds of pressure that screws put on it.
#20
Thanks for all your help people. I'm kinda thinking again about getting pine after what cedricsmods said about pine being pretty soft and easily dentable, so any other suggestions on wood are welcome.
#21
^ I don't know about that being much of a problem. Basswood is super soft as well and its used all the time, you'll just need a hard lacquer finish. Knotty pine might not be the best wood because the knots affect the tone in a negative way (I've heard)

the pine at LOWES, the select-pine IS kiln dried... you probably dont have lowes there...

I was not aware of that. But just because its kiln dried doesn't mean its completely dry and ready to be made into a guitar. Most lumber yard bought kin dried woods require some time of air drying at least.
#22
^thanks for that and yea we don't have Lowe's here, so at the moment I'm just searching eBay and all over the net for suppliers of pine, ash or alder
#23
alder is an excellent wood, poplar is very good too. both take finish well, have pretty plain looking grain (i have seen alder burl, awesome. poplar gets mineral-streaks through it, and that looks incredible).
#24
^ poplar can be great as well, at the lumber yard I saw a piece of flamed poplar that was incredible, almost as good as my spanish cedar (they lay aside the extreme figured woods).
#25
Thanks. For a finish, I'd do a sort of white or blonde finish. Whatever finish I do, it won't be transparent/translucent so the ugliness of the wood doesn't matter and it doesn't matter if it's got knots just as long as it doesn't affect the tone and I can work around them.
#26
You want your wood to have no knots if possible. poplar is probably one of the easiest woods to finish I've found.
#28
#30
i think the sticky at the top of this forum has a bunch of places for wood.

and another thing you might consider is poplar, which i'm told sounds similar to alder. Though pine's prolly the cheapest you can get
Member of the "Marty Friedman > You" Club. PM apocalypse13 or altronataku to join

Gear:

ESP LTD DV8-R
Squier SG (Specs Unknown)
Kustom KGA-10 Ten watt practice amp
Marshall TSL 602

My JEM Build
#33
http://www.amwoodinc.com/canada/priceListsFrame.html . Am I missing something on how cheap they are? Would it be US$12.69 for a board of white ash that is:

  • 23.6" in length (1.96' long)
  • 15.7" in width
  • 1.5" in thickness
  • (if I've done my calculations correctly according to the site) 3.8465 BF (board foot)


Can you tell me if this is right?

Edit: how would this be http://www.exoticwoods.com/product.php?productid=22&cat=58&page=1 ? would that be big enough?
Last edited by kenan6346 at Jul 2, 2008,
#34
Id be surprised if they sold you a board to those dimensions, but that would be correct. extra wide and thick boards are usually ore expensive.
#35
Quote by carousel182
Id be surprised if they sold you a board to those dimensions, but that would be correct. extra wide and thick boards are usually ore expensive.


Good point, how big do you reckon they'd want it to be for them to sell it to me? What do you think of the other piece of wood
#37
If you want to make sure your wood is properly aged, why not look into old furniture, eg: old mantlepieces, Brian may style!
#38
^I was looking at doing that, but instead I'm going to buy some Tasmanian Oak (not really oak, just the name of it); I've looked it up and it has a similar density to maple, and my luthier friend recommended it if I want to do a clear finish because it's got a nice grain. I'm going to Bunnings tomorrow to buy the wood, so I guess I'll get either the pine or this 'oak' depending on how I feel both of them are when I get there. I'll probably also buy myself a jigsaw too, a bunch of sandpaper and maybe a router too (I'll ask my gramps if he has them first because I'm going to his place for a holiday on Saturday for a week and he has a workshop)

Any last minute suggestions welcome
#39
I don't know anything about it, but saying your guitar is made of "Tazmanian Oak" sounds way cooler than anything else I can think of.
#40
I think ormsby has used tasmanian oak, I know I've seen it used by one of the australian users on PG.
Page 1 of 3