#1
My acoustic's neck warped a bit and the action is pretty high now. I thought I could tune down a step and put a capo on the 2nd fret, and although that lowers the action, it doesn't right and it gets irritating.

So I was wondering how I could adjust the action on an acoustic? Could I file down the grooves in the saddle for the strings? Would that help?

Need some helps guys.
#2
2 things i did to lower the action on my old guitar were tightening the truss rod(just a little bit) and taking out the saddle and sanding it down a bit. dont go too far with either because it can cause problems like fret buzz.
#3
the truss rod is not for action at all. The truss rod is only to be fiddled around with if you have a bowing problem.

Do not file down the grooves in the saddle. That is a BAD idea and can lead to a lot of premature string breaking, intonation, and contact angle problems.

What you SHOULD do is sand down the bottom of the saddle. However, if you dont know what you're doing. dont do it.
Equipment:
- Art & Lutherie Cedar CW (SOLD! )
- Martin D-16RGT w/ LR Baggs M1 Active Soundhole Pickup
- Seagull 25th Anniversary Flame Maple w/ LR Baggs Micro EQ

Have an acoustic guitar? Don't let your guitar dry out! Click here.
#4
Quote by captivate
the truss rod is not for action at all. The truss rod is only to be fiddled around with if you have a bowing problem.

Do not file down the grooves in the saddle. That is a BAD idea and can lead to a lot of premature string breaking, intonation, and contact angle problems.

What you SHOULD do is sand down the bottom of the saddle. However, if you dont know what you're doing. dont do it.

i didnt mention all that. the neck on mine was bowed a bit so tightening it set it straight and set my strings right where I wanted them. i also sanded the bottom of the saddle but i did a lot of reading on how to do it properly before i did anything. i just dont like paying people to do work for me so i just read a lot and figure out things like that for myself.
#5
Quote by captivate
the truss rod is not for action at all. The truss rod is only to be fiddled around with if you have a bowing problem.

Do not file down the grooves in the saddle. That is a BAD idea and can lead to a lot of premature string breaking, intonation, and contact angle problems.

What you SHOULD do is sand down the bottom of the saddle. However, if you dont know what you're doing. dont do it.


What is a bowing problem? I may have mixed up what problem I have...
#6
when your neck looks like a bow lol... kinda self explanitory... but my instructor said to leave the truss rod to a pro cause if you go a little too far you could snap your neck....
#7
Bowing is how far forward or backward the neck is leaning in reference to the guitar body. On an acoustic guitar, the action at the 1st fret should be lower than the action at the 12th fret. Not by a lot though.
Equipment:
- Art & Lutherie Cedar CW (SOLD! )
- Martin D-16RGT w/ LR Baggs M1 Active Soundhole Pickup
- Seagull 25th Anniversary Flame Maple w/ LR Baggs Micro EQ

Have an acoustic guitar? Don't let your guitar dry out! Click here.
#8
#9
Quote by jimtaka


Thanks man, yea it's a bowing problem. My brother said it was warped so that's what I've been saying.
#10
Your neck is warped when the fretboard is actually concave or convex. or bent in that respect. To check if your neck is straight or not, take a look down the neck. Hold up the guitar and look at the length of the neck from the soundhole side of the guitar.
Equipment:
- Art & Lutherie Cedar CW (SOLD! )
- Martin D-16RGT w/ LR Baggs M1 Active Soundhole Pickup
- Seagull 25th Anniversary Flame Maple w/ LR Baggs Micro EQ

Have an acoustic guitar? Don't let your guitar dry out! Click here.