yeah thats basically the question...i really dont like it compared to my les paul and its rosewood fretboard...the stuff they put on the maple fret board feels "slow"
youll have to get that off by hand.

you need to remove your frets, buy a 9.5'' radius beam, double stick tape... sand sand sand away. natural maple feels 100 times better.

you can just wetsand the lacquer (they dont do that)... get some water, and some 2400 sand paper wet/dry and sand carefully between the frets, then buff lightly. i twill play 100 times smoother.
thank you so much LP addict!!!

you freaking rock!

how would i put the frets back on and get them to stay if i were to take them off though?
Quote by forsaknazrael
Don't take the finish off the fretboard...
The fretboard NEEDS some kind of finish on it, or else it'll warp.


i thought you could take it off...it runs smoother and stuff

how would it warp?
Quote by amazing FretMan
wouldnt that damage the fret board though?

if you want it off the back of the neck, it wont damage anything but the maple fretboard i think has to have a finish.
a refret is almost 200 dollars on average for a reason, its a pain in the ass, i highly recommend the wet-sanding. its cheap and effect. just dont bare down on the fingerboard, just sand lightly until the orange peel is gone. and no, it wont warp at all. maple has almost no natural defense against wear, so it turns black/dark and gets gross quickly.
Quote by amazing FretMan

i thought you could take it off...it runs smoother and stuff

how would it warp?

Well, you know, they put that finish on there for a reason...It's not just for looks.

^Right, if you're only scuffing it, it should be okay, as far as protecting it. Don't sand too far. I imagine it'll still get much more dirty than a finished one though.

Honestly, it sounds like you bought the wrong guitar. You should've bought a Strat with a rosewood fretboard.
Quote by forsaknazrael
Well, you know, they put that finish on there for a reason...It's not just for looks.

it wont warp. the wood is just very wear-able. the fender HM strat series had no finish on heir neck/fretboards. it just turns colors from skin oils. definitely wont warp. but still, the wetsand idea is alot better.
ughh i guess your all right haha i could take it off...but i shouldnt

is there a way i could get the "slow" to go away? would fastfret work if i just put it on the fret board once?
nope, go find one and play it, you will see alot of black and finger marks o nthe fretboard. trust me. alot of the fenders in my local GC have no finish o nthe fingerboards, maple of course. a 1/64'' thick coat of lacquer, a soft finish anyways, will not do anything for warping, its strictly to keep your finger elements away from the natural wood, which wears fast. makes for a nice natural looking relic.

look at the fingerboard shot. that guitar has not been played very much. the back of the neck may have a light matte finish, but not the few ive played/worked on. amazign guitars.
if your wood is dried to 6% elements (seasonal changes) wont matter. your wood wont warp. now yes if you pour water on your wood, it could have issues if not dried and sanded off afterwards, but youd have to be a moron to do that.
the reason that maple fingerboards are finished is because of what LP Addict stated. Finger oils blacken and get maple dirty real quick.
I've never seen a maple fretboard guitar with no finish. I've seen them with oil finishes which make the outside wood swell and helps protect from moisture and wear without changing the way it feels. Because most oil finishes soak into the wood you can't see them, and all the dirt and grime from your fingers can soak into the wood too.

The neck isn't going to warp with no finish, but it will wear very quickly. You need something on there to protect it. Tung oil will work. True oil is my personal favorite. A few coats of true oil will make an oil skin around the neck that can then be scuffed with very high grit sandpaper to make it feel like bare wood. This gives you all the advantages of no finish, but still protects the neck from moisture, wear, and tear and it' much more durable than your standard tung oil finishes.
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where can i buy true oil? specific brand? and specific grit of sand paper?

i just really dont wanna mess up my neck

It's the only brand that makes the stuff

It's for gunstocks so you can get it anyplace that sells guns. I used to buy it at wallmart in the sporting good department.

The sandpaper should be 600 grit. You can go higher if you want your neck to be smoother but it takes more time and isn't really worth the effort.

If you do use true oil then don't follow the directions. You need to get lint free rags (this is very important because it's really hard to get the lint out. Give it a full 24 hours between coats and make the coats as thin as possible. Try making your rag slightly damp with the oil and move in 1 swoop across the whole neck. Put your rag in a plastic back and save it for the next day. Do it 8 or 9 times with super super thin coats and you will be ready to scuff with the sandpaper. Thicker coats means more drying time and it means you will have to sand things level. Once you have taken care of the back half of the neck you can flip it around and do the fretboard. Just a touch of oil on a rag and wipe it between the frets with your finger. Remember you want to keep it as dry as possible but still be visibly wet (if you know what I mean)
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Last edited by CorduroyEW at Jul 2, 2008,
Sand over it with 400 gritt sandpaper and that should be good enough. You don't need to sand all the way through the lacquer.
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yeah dude if you sand off the finish on the fret board you will need to keep it oiled as you would do with a rosewood neck to keep it from warping