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Finished pics on page 3!!!!!!!!

Well this is my first build, and hopefully it'll go well!

Anyway here is what I am thinking.

-3 piece neck (padouk and flamed maple)
- Mahogany wings
-Rosewood Fretboard possibly 24 frets
-Hard tail
-2 Humbuckers Possibly Tonerider Alnico IV Classics
-2 Tones 2 volumes with coil split and maybe phasing and maybe a kill

Here are some pictures to hold you guys over.

I'll have more pictures up with hardware once it gets here, which will probably be tomorrow. The great thing about Stew Mac is it is only about 3-4 hours from here so shipping is quick!

Also, on the fretboard, about how much higher than the body should it be? I noticed on my strat and tele it's only about a 1/4", or the thickness of the fretboard. I was just wondering!

I was going to possibly experiment with a piezo somewhere in this body, probably in the middle position between the pickups. I was thinking of mounting an acoustic type piezo under the body, routed from the back. It was just a small idea, but I don't see how it wouldn't work, as long as I keep a very thin layer of mahogany between it, it would be invisible to the naked eye.

Thoughts are appreciated!
Last edited by ohspyro89 at Aug 9, 2008,
I got some more hardware in and more pictures of the body layout and such.

I got in the Schaller Bridge, Grover Mid sized tuners and the rosewood fretboard. I still have to chop off the end of the neck, and glue it to give it some depth for the headstock length.

Anyway, for headstocks, think I should go with something like a les paul? I don't know if I want something like that, or a more seagull ish headstock...
looks awesome! i think a really deep red color would look great on that, and if you had a creamy whitish binding it would be incredible.

as for the headstock, I'd keep it like the normal LP's, but that's just me.

it's almost like what I want my signature guitar to be!
Stage Rig

Fender Strat
Epi Les Paul
Taylor 110
Boss TU-2
Omega Amps Hot Rod Deluxe (Dumble mod)
Clean/Drive/More Drive footswitch
Mid boost/Preamp boost footswitch
looks pretty well thought out...
you know that's not allowed, right?

just kidding; keep up the good work.
Looks great!

Quote by ohspyro89
Also, on the fretboard, about how much higher than the body should it be?

It can be as high as you want, generally though, it should be a certain height above to give you a good action, which would all be calculated along with neck angle bridge height etc by the designer, so its up to you.

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Well I wasn't going to use a neck angle, it just seemed like too much work! I think I'll keep the fretboard as the height and just recess the bridge to keep everything right.

As for having it thought out... I thought I was behind on it all! There is just no reason to try and rush this, it's a lot of money. I still am going to try a test run on a neck on some honduran mahogany that I have sitting around. I was thinking a lefty strat headstock to throw on my telecaster.

As for inlays, I don't know if I will do any. My grandpa is a great operator of a scroll saw, I wish I had some work here to post, but I could always have him cut out something really sweet and inlay maybe in the headstock or fretboard. I am not conceded enough to have my initials in the fretboard, but that would be kind of cool... Maybe a headstock inlay would be cool, I'll have to brainstorm some sweet ideas. I could use some mahogany for the inlay...

Now I have a real question, I saw this in one of Ormsby's builds, but I forget the answer. When placing the bridge, isn't it right that I want to put each saddle as far forward as they will go at 25.5"? I am pretty sure I read to put them exactly at 25.5 because to adjust for intonation, you just move the saddles back, to compensate for extra tension when fretting.
dont put the saddles all the forward at 25.5, give yourself just a little bit of room to move them forward as you never know what'll happen, you could for some reason have to move it forward
I have quite the bit of adjustment in that bridge, so I should be alright. I really don't like sloppy recessed bridge routs... I want something fairly clean, I might do it on the Vertical mill. I was also thinking of just getting a piece of either bloodwood,zebra wood, maple or something and putting it under the fretboard, it would give it another contrast point and bring the bridge up a little higher. That way I wouldn't really need to recess it maybe... but then my pickups would stick real high out of the body.... Recessing it seems to be the way to go.

Anybody think putting a different wood on the tops of the wings would be sweet? Maybe Koa, or a dark redish wood, possibly more padouk? I'll have to plain them more, but thats no biggy, and it would make the guitar sweet. I am going with a natural finish anyway, and paduok would be sweet.
I'd make the top wing a little taller than the bottom one... more like a les paul DC or a hamer... that looks like the ibanez DC design...

but that's my preference... that neck looks marvelous

want some custom hand wound pups to put in there?
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Timpson Guitars and TDM Pickups rock ;D

I make guitars and pickups. I also make sh*t that'll blow you the f*k up as well as things that will rebuild you - I have the technology

I picked up some 1/4" paduok today, and I'll glue it into the wings, hopefully it'll look pretty slick. I like how it's coming out now.

I plan to buy a router this weekend with my paycheck, then start to cut this baby out and start routing channels and such.

Now that I am thinking about it, I could do a semi hollow design. Think it would be worth it to rout it out?

I am almost nervous to start cutting into this wood!
i love the wood choices... semi hollow would mean you'd have to either cap the front or cap the back... i think the wood looks great the way it is... semi-hollow the next one .

yea, i'd bring the cuts down a little in the low parts... looks great though . I say black/cream zebra humbuckers in that bad boy
Support your local luthier!

Timpson Guitars and TDM Pickups rock ;D

I make guitars and pickups. I also make sh*t that'll blow you the f*k up as well as things that will rebuild you - I have the technology
looks like this is coming along nicely, I really like the wood choices and the thickness of the laminates the only problem I can see is that the maple laminates on the ends run out half way through the neck. If I were to do laminates of those thicknesses I would angle them so that the thin maple strip runs all the way down the neck. That is the only thing I see wrong with your design, I think that you should makes the cutaways deeper to improve fret access but make them flow similarly to how they flow now but you already caught that one. you really don't have to fix the laminates but I think it would make it look nicer. A

Again, this is coming along nicely and it looks like you've planned pretty good.
The maple laminates are meant to be there. When I shape the neck, they will be shaved off an flow into the neck. The neck alone with out the laminates is fairly wide. The fretboard sits in between it, so no need to worry about that.

The thing right now is I could cap the top with these pieces of paduok.... but good idea, the next one!

As for the headstock, I might add some width to it with some VERY flamed maple and a few pieces of paduok, that would look great. I'll have to get pictures of this piece of flame maple I bought for $1.88. It is 4 pieces about 1.5" width and about an inch deep all glued side to side, I can rip it and use it as wings on the headstock.
More pictures!

I did the scarf joint with my router and a jig I made up real quick, it worked pretty darned good I must say!

As for the headstock, I think I am going to use this flamed maple and a few small pieces of paduok glued together, it should be really nice. I'll probably have more maple than paduok, but I am not exactly sure yet. The great thing is, I got this flamed maple for a $1.88 in a bargain bin. There are 4 pieces laminated together, with extremely high flame. I'll just cut them apart and put some paduok strips in them and call it a headstock!

This should come out really well! And I am getting custom pickups wound!
hmm I'm just wondering this, why doe padauk turn brown, if its for the same reason as purple heart its the UV rays. If it is the UV rays then you could just put an additive in your clear the blocks the UV rays, and it will make the padauk keep its color. of course thats just speculation, but it might be something you should ask one of the pros at project I'm not experienced with padauk so i cant be of much assistance.
LP Addict: I cut some of it off, but I used the router to take most of it off. I still have a large chunk about 5" long from the end of it if I need some depth for the headstock. It's unfortunate it changes colors, but it'll be cool with me.

Carousel182: Check this out


African Padauk undergoes an extreme degree of color change with pronounced darkening from the vivid orange color when freshly milled to a dark red almost black color when fully aged/oxidized. Oil finishes hasten this process and allow the full color change to occur while water based finishes inhibit the full color range.

So I might have to go with a water based finish, whatever that might be. Would polyurethane work then? I am pretty sure it's water based and I could throw it on the top of the body and such.

Hopefully I can get the headstock on and start carving the neck. But I have to take a trip down to mill the truss rod channel before I can do all of that!

Thanks for the feedback doods.
i like this build esp considering the awesome pickup choice you made
Support your local luthier!

Timpson Guitars and TDM Pickups rock ;D

I make guitars and pickups. I also make sh*t that'll blow you the f*k up as well as things that will rebuild you - I have the technology
I will probably oil it, but if it preserves the color, I might go with some water based stuff. The red is really really awesome. I do like oil finishes though. Right now I am undecided, I might go with a gloss water based finish so I can keep the bright red color for a while.

I am looking forward to these pickups! I sent you another P.M. too.

Just a question, what kind of router bit do you guys use to rout for the pickup cavities? The one I have now seems too long, and it takes too much material right away and it's hard to control. It's an inch long. I might go pick up a shallower one, and a few just to have.
use a bearing guide bit and a template for good clean pickup routes, i cant reccomend it enough seriously, bearing bits ftw.

also before you cut the body ( if you have already) please please please, try and fit both the wings onto one of the blanks, theres so much wood that'd get wasted if you dont atleast check it.
ohspyro, you can get waterbased polyurethane from places like lowes or home depot, if your looking to go in that direction they are definitely options for finishing. I believe I've heard of a wipe on poly that people get good results from, not sure if its waterbased though, personally i spray my finishes, oil isn't for me usually.
abmbwr: I have a bearing guided one, but I think the initial cut, of 1", is too deep to be very controllable. I might go get a shorter one, then just lower it into the cavity using the cavity to guide the bit. I need to pick up a small one for the truss rod rout too, so I'll take a trip and buy the 2 of them.

carousel182: I can spray my finish too, I have a sprayer for my air compressor that I could use. I'll do quite a few coats, and wetsand and such. I had to redo the fairings on my motorcycle once, so the whole wetsanding thing isn't a mystery.

I'll probably rout for the truss rod tomorrow. And maybe start shaping the neck. Hopefully I'll get pickups in soon, so I can have those ready when I need to install them. I need to go pick up some wiring too, I don't have any spare stuff around. Just a thought, I am coil tapping all of these pickups with phasing too. Think I should put all the on off switches on the top side of the guitar and recess them so they cannot be seen? That would be pretty sweet in my opinion. It wouldn't be too hard, I could just rout the body before I glue the paduok on top.
loving this dude, i personally despise scarf joints. i usually just do multilaminates and glue an adder piece to the top and get the lams as close as possible. im not good enough with scarfing to try it out.
when i do my cavity routs, I make a template that's like 3/4" thick, rough out freehand and just use the bearing to ride along the sides. once i'm deep enough in my cavity, i take off the template... works like a charm

oh and scarf joints ftw!
Support your local luthier!

Timpson Guitars and TDM Pickups rock ;D

I make guitars and pickups. I also make sh*t that'll blow you the f*k up as well as things that will rebuild you - I have the technology
Wow, those are some gorgeous woods! I've wanted to see a natural finish neck through LP build on here for quite a while...

Anyhow, are you going to do a carved top? Natural-finished carve-tops FTW!
No carved top, I am not feeling the need for it yet. I suppose my next build I'll do a carved top semi hollow body.

Nuttinbuttrouble: I actually thought about doing that... and I will now. It makes sense since I could keep the bit that much higher off the work before I use my really really thin stew mac template. I need to go pick up some more router bits anyhow, specifically for the truss rod rout so I don't always have to go down to use the mill...

ESP Shreder: I might have some soon, just be patient little grasshopper!
Well I took 3 days off this week from work, because I hate it. So I have gotten some stuff done. I plan to finish pretty soon too.

More PICS!!!!!!!!!

This is the headstock, with the 15" cut to make it nice and flat on top. Its wide enough that the two padouk strips on the end aren't even touched. Everything is book matched with the exception of the center maple stripe.

My truss rod rout. Fits the truss rod real snug... I like it.

These are just the rough cut body. I have to rout the rest of it and glue it all up before I glue it all to the neck. I plan to do the control rout through the front so I don't need to have multiple covers on the back.

This is the back of the neck that'll be in the body. I did this to compensate for the depth of the top plate. This is the same cut of wood from the top, which is the same thickness. It made it real easy to make it all the same depth.

This is the rout I did for the humbucker wires. I ran it up towards where the first humbucker will be. This will eliminate a need for a back plate. But I suppose fishing wires through there will be interesting....

Here is the fretboard, routed to the correct taper. I have yet to fret it, and I don't know if I'll fret it before or after I glue it on.... Suggestions?

Here are my templates. I am going to make another one for the headstock here in a few minutes. I already have one for the big fender headstock that I plan to use on another neck I am building.

Here are the pickups. They are perdy. I have alnico 2 in the neck and alnico 5 in the bridge. Hopefully they will sound great. They were wound to my specs, which was pretty damned cool. nuthinbuttrubl8 wound them, and they were only 160! I can't wait to get them in this beast.

I should have more pictures in a few hours.
Is that a sony cybershot?
LoL thanks for the plug man. hope ya like em!

Edit: they were $75 each with covers and wax potting and 6 dollar shipping
Support your local luthier!

Timpson Guitars and TDM Pickups rock ;D

I make guitars and pickups. I also make sh*t that'll blow you the f*k up as well as things that will rebuild you - I have the technology
Last edited by nuthinbuttrubl8 at Jul 31, 2008,
Looking good so far, I think I'll be following this. Is it over at PG as well?
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Wow ZOMFG Awesome. How did you find it glueing and making a neck?
ESP Eclipse-II VTB (With 18v Mod)
Randall RG75
Tapco Mix60
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Mmm padouk is lovely stuff. A small luthier I know has just made a classical guitar out of that (back and sides), looks a treat.
American Deluxe maple board Strat
Hot Rod Deluxe
Fulltone Fulldrive II mosfet
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