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#1
Hey all, thought I'd post up my first build I have in progress. Been on hold for a while, but planning on getting going on it again. And sorry about the picture quality, most of these are from the cell phone. Definitely will get some cleaner ones up when it's closer to being finished.



Padauk for the body, flamed maple for the neck and binding and quilted maple on top.





Custom body shape, pockets were cut on top to save a little weight.





Seven piece neck with padauk and maple, padauk fingerboard was ordered from another forum.





Quilted maple top glued on, binding channel routed and binding is bent and glued in.





Where it stands right now. The fretting is my main obstacle at the moment, namely because I don't have the right tools for the job. I should be able to make some templates and knock out the pickup and tremolo cavities soon, though. Then it's on to deciding what to do about the finish..

Mike
#3
Nah, all done manually. Contours were all done with a spindle sander, rasps and scrapers, and the pockets were hogged out with a forstner bit then freehand routed to the final shape.
#4
I like it all except the headstock. That thing is mammoth and doesn't really fit in with the rest of the guitar IMO. Good job though!
#6
I really like the neck, and I'm not normally one for multiple piece necks. How much does it weigh though - I've no experience with padauk.

I also disagree about the headstock, it fits with the rest of the guitar.
#7
Are you going to cut out an elbow contour? I think it would really help.
#8
Thanks for the replies.

To be honest I'm not too happy with the headstock either. It's not really as big as it looks in the last picture (funky perspective), but it still doesn't fit with the body as much as I'd like.

Thanks LP. Yeah, the padauk is great to work with. I'm working on this out of the woodshop at my college (Cal Poly). Great work on that Tele, by the way.

guitar/bass, I haven't weighed it yet but padauk is pretty heavy (about 1/3 heavier than mahogany) which is why I tried to pocket out as much as I could. I'll get a weight on it once I have all the hardware installed.

Mecler, I considered an arm contour but the maple top I'm using is only 1/8" thick. That means I'd have to bend the top to match the contour. Also, routing and bending the binding on a drop top can be tricky, so I just stuck with a flat top for this guitar.

Mike
#10
Really funking nice!


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#11
This looks brilliant, i came into this thread thinking it's just gonna be another average build with wood that will get me hard but when i saw the pictures i was fucking blown away!

Great job so far!

Gear
Gibson Les Paul Traditional
Carvin V3 and Marhall 1960A cab
2 B.C. Rich Ironbird Pro
Schecter Hellraiser 6
Boss ML-2

#12
farkin awesome! is this ur first build? if so, i think ur born to be a luthier.
Sincerely,
Shitstirrer
#13
I love the look of the neck from the back. What made you choose laminates?
#15
Quote by supergerbil
I love the look of the neck from the back. What made you choose laminates?



laminates are classy looking, if done correctly, but what most people dont realize is that EVERY laminate in your neck, almost doubles the strength of the neck (if the grain patterns are laid out correctly.)
#17
LP, just came back from the east coast last week actually

Thanks for the responses, everyone. I'll try to get an update on it sometime this week

supergerbil - I like the way multi wood necks look, though next time I might go with something a bit more subtle (ebony pinstripes?). Also like LP said, laminated necks add a ton of strength when done correctly.

ML - hmm, I hadn't thought about an f-hole. I might mess around in photoshop a bit to see if anything looks nice, though I'm not sure what I would do about the wood I left in between the hollow areas. Still, bound f-holes...sexy
#18
that's a sick guitar, I like the neck, but not the headstock.

Cal Poly Pomona? I was there for a week last week in building 23 for a wrestling camp.
#20
I think it's the angle of the picture, but the fit of those tuners looks REALLY wonky.
Sincerely, Chad.
Quote by LP Addict
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#21
I really like the look of it I really think it will turn out great.

Gear
Gibson Les Paul Traditional
Carvin V3 and Marhall 1960A cab
2 B.C. Rich Ironbird Pro
Schecter Hellraiser 6
Boss ML-2

#25
Really nice, really clean!


Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#27
Back from the dead, finally put some time in the other day and got the routing done. Frets are in but not dressed yet (trying to put that off for as long as possible). Also set the hardware in to see how things look.





#29
Quote by LP Addict
EXCELLENT building, but the body looks so bulbous too me. paduak is expensive as shit isnt it? i cant find any for a good price, but i love the way it looks.

I agree. It needs a little bit less on the sides.
Current Gear:
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Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#32
Thanks for the replies

Quote by LP Addict
EXCELLENT building, but the body looks so bulbous too me. paduak is expensive as shit isnt it? i cant find any for a good price, but i love the way it looks.


Hmm I don't think it's overly bulbous but maybe I've just gotten used to the shape...it's no wider than a Strat, but maybe that's not what you meant? Nothing wrong with big curves

I got my padauk off eBay so maybe I just got a steal, but I got that big piece for around $40, enough for two bodies and a neck or two. Still need to decide what to do with the big chunk I have left over...


Quote by LP Addict
also your upper fret access looks like its going to be absolutely awful, you need to take that thing to a spindle sander for a few hours.


After few hours on the spindle sander I think the only thing left would be the frets I do plan to take it down a bit more but mainly to clean up the joint. To be honest I'm perfectly happy with the fret access...with the neck joint I find it much easier to reach the 24th fret than it is to even get to the 19th on my Strat. I could only see it being an issue if I was trying to hit something on 21-24 on the low E, which I've never encountered in anything I play.


Quote by ohspyro89
I am wondering, do you enjoy the smell when you route paduok? I used it on my build, and it smells delicious! I definitely enjoy using it, but it seems kinda spiny sometimes and tends to chip.


Ha yes I was very surprised at the smell when I first cut into it, seemed almost chocolatey to me. I've had several people come up and comment on the smell while working with it in the woodshop. I haven't had many problems with chipping but a little bit with the color bleeding into the maple...can't seem to get the inlays quite back to white after sanding down the fretboard. Other than that though it's been great to work with.
#34
Wow. This looks super awesome!
ESP Eclipse-II VTB (With 18v Mod)
Randall RG75
Tapco Mix60
New Zealand
#35
Quote by LP Addict
EXCELLENT building, but the body looks so bulbous too me. paduak is expensive as shit isnt it? i cant find any for a good price, but i love the way it looks.


^ I agree with you on both points LP. To the TS, the woodworking you are doing looks unbelievable! It look's like it was chiseled out of solid marble; all the edges are so sharp, all the cuts are so definite....whew....it's a wonder. I think what we're getting at about the sides though is that we wanna see something more sleek:



That's *really* exaggerated but, sorta thinner. Other than that this build is gorgeous! Again, the woodworking is stunning.
#36
Yeah, I had the issue of color bleeding too. That dust gets so fine and gets anywhere. I had paduok and maple for my neck. It didn't come out too bad, but in some spots it's pretty noticeable.

The padouk I cut smelled really sweet, almost cigarish. It's good stuff, I enjoy working with it. I would suggest a water based finish. It'll protect the color of the paduok, oil will allow the color to change over time.
#37
Haven't had much of a chance to work on this lately, but hoping to get everything finished up in the next few weeks. Strung it up before staining and everything seemed to work (phew).

#38
Omfg...beautiful color, beautiful wood. How did you get everything to look so clean? The padauk looked so clean and smooth even without the finish.

The only thing I don't really like a whole lot is the fact that the maple is so thick all the way around and the bottom is really round, but I could get used to the roundness.

Overall, looks AWESOME!
O.S.I.


Part of the 7-string Legion

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#39
F**king hell thats sexy lol

Can you outline your stain process?


Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#40
Thanks guys.

As far as the staining process goes, here's what I did:

1. Wet the top with a damp cloth to raise the grain, sand lightly, repeat two or three times.
2. Mask off the edges so that only the binding on the top face is exposed. Apply CA (superglue) to this exposed edge. This prevents the binding from getting stained later on. The better job you do here, the less you have to clean up later (scraping stain off the binding is no fun)
3. Tape off anything else you don't want stained (neck, fretboard, pickup routes, sides...you might not worry about getting stain on something far away like the neck, but it can be a messy process, stain moves from your hand to anything you touch so it's better to be careful)
4. Wet the top down with water
5. Apply first coat of stain. I wasn't sure about the color at first so I started off pretty easy, did a couple of light passes before I used a more concentrated mix (stain is ColorTone concentrated stain, diluted with water)
6. Once dry, I lightly sanded the top to pop the grain some more, being careful around the edges and binding
7. Wet surface again and apply a lighter stain
8. Once dry, very lightly sanded to give a little color variation at the peaks of the quilt.

Basically, stain dark, sand back a bit, stain light, sand back a tiny bit. Not sure how many runs I actually did for each trying to get the color the way I wanted. Still not too sure about the color, hoping it doesn't look too Christmasy.
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