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#1
Sorry if this belongs in the main thread.. I just need to know this really fast because time is important here.

I just finished sanding it down with 320 grit sandpaper. I want to only remove the clear coat, and paint over the original matte color with white.

Here's what it looks like so far.

How much more do I have to sand before I can paint? Remember, I'm painting over the blue.




Also, did I get the right kind of paint? It's Flat white, so I don't know. I after it's on, i assume it will be flat and I can clearcoat it lots of times.





Thanks !
Last edited by injected at Jul 21, 2008,
#2
i'd never paint a guitar with a spray bomb...
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#3
Why dont you take it down to the bare wood?


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#4
Quote by Absent Mind
Why dont you take it down to the bare wood?

Then he'd have to reseal it. Just bring it down enough so it's smooth and no longer shiny in any way.

And what kind of finish do you want? If you want a flat finish, you'll have to get some semi-gloss finish, but if you want a shiny finish, just get regular polyurethane gloss.
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#6
Ok well, I just sanded it down a little more than it was right now.


I hit a sort of Shiny gloss, im guessing that's the sealer, and it's time to paint.


I'm not sure what kind of paint this is, though! I know it will come out very tacky, but im going to clearcoat it and wet sand afterwards so it is shiny again. Flat is the only type they had at the Ace hardware.

After I paint this though, someone is gonna airbrush it like this:





Then I'm going to clear coat and wet sand. Am I doing it right?

why would you do that to an ibanez '

It's only an RG120.


Can someone check and make sure I'm using the right kind of paint? I don't care if it's poly or lacquer, I only care if it will work fine for what I need it for.

Here:


Last edited by injected at Jul 21, 2008,
#7
Before you tape up the body to do the airbrushing, let the white dry over night. If its not 100% dry, you could very easily pull up paint. Also, let it dry overnight again before you remove the painters tape. Just some precautions.

EDIT; Yes, that paint will work fine. It wont be very shiny though
Last edited by Pyrofretnic at Jul 21, 2008,
#8
Quote by Pyrofretnic
Before you tape up the body to do the airbrushing, let the white dry over night. If its not 100% dry, you could very easily pull up paint. Also, let it dry overnight again before you remove the painters tape. Just some precautions.



After applying the final coat I was planning on letting sit for 2 days minimum.


It says Enamel, is that fine if I use it?

I feel unsure. Ace Hardware is down the street and I could just return it if I need a different kind.
#9
Uh, guys.


I'm done sanding, like, right now. I'd go ahead and paint but as I'm not sure.. uh..

can someone tell me if enamel is ok or if I should go back and grab something else


sorry for double post lol
#12
Post pics when you're done.... just curious as to how it goes and what it looks like.
O O

___
#13
Just got word from the Airbrusher.

He wants to charge me $100 for that Rising Sun design. I don't think so!!!

I'm going to Ace right now to exchange for black, so I can do this.

Will take pics.

Brb

#14
It doesn't surprise me how expensive it was.... that looks like a pretty complicated design.

You could probably do that ^ yourself.... you'd just need some blue paint (obviously) and some tape... but make sure you find out what kind to use.

(that would probably look good on that RG....)
O O

___
#16
Hey Ippon, is it OK if I put the base as Enamel, then paint Acrylic lacquer over it, for the blue stripes? This is after the Black has had all of it's coats and has dried, of course.

Here's pics, ready for painting. BRB!





Oh, and after this is done I'm going to drop some 12,000MCD LED lights in the bridge and neck pickup positions!!
Last edited by injected at Jul 21, 2008,
#17
I am abit upset right now, because the first coat looks like crap.





I hung it from a tree and went around and did it left to right, right to left, in a vertical motion.

I don't like it.

From now on, I am going to lay it flat and do ONE side at a time, and make sure I get it right, is this a good plan?

Can it still look normal?
Last edited by injected at Jul 21, 2008,
#18
Looks like you got it too wet. Whenever I put black on too heavy it dries that weird gray color. Just go over it again, but do a couple light coats instead of one heavy one.

EDIT: After looking at it again, you definitely put too heavy of a coat on.
Last edited by Pyrofretnic at Jul 21, 2008,
#19
I just flipped it on its back after about 35 mins of drying. it was dry to the touch. i put it on it's back on some cardboard. and it got that ugly texture again! :'(


any tips? I want it to look professional...

When I try to put a light coat, I end up missing spots because I have to move the can very fast to not overdo it. So I end up going over it again until I get everything, then these ugly bumps appear.

So anything else i should know other than go lighter?


Again, I miss alot of area when I do that..
#20
I just went and sanded both sides. Front is after the 2nd coat, the back is after the first coat.

The sanding helped a little, but it still has horrible texture..

Any tips? It seems IMPOSSIBLE to get it to be perfectly flat.. After about 5 coats, should I take some 320 grit sandpaper and keep sanding until it's all flat?

I'm running out of ideas.

Here's some pictures.






Also, how should I go about painting the sides? While it's lying flat, do I just give it the once-over with the can?
Last edited by injected at Jul 21, 2008,
#21
It looks fine. When I did my refinish, I took it down to the sanding sealer then reprimed it and it was really really flat. Dont worry though, all that will come out once you do the final sanding. Just go on and paint over it, like its not even there.
#22
alright, it's 8pm and that's the final coat. I will let it sit until tomorrow, when I will put more coats on.

I am going to sand it between coats as soon as it's dry, is that okay? Or should I wait until the final coat?


Sanding is the only way to get rid of the texture, right?
#23
It won't matter if it has very small bumps after you put a couplle layers of finish on, right?
#24
They're more than very small bumps. it's textured very strangely, I want it to look smooth and glossy, not matte and textured.

I sanded the clear coat off only and left the paint on. I didn't use Primer. is that bad?
#25
at least you know with the paint you are using it wont rust. says so on the can.

I just painted a bass body with auto paint. I also used a filler primer. It'll be interesting to see what happens. i got 2 coats of primer 3 coats of paint, and am putting clear on at the moment. should be nice and thick by the time i'm finished.

I will point out that the filler primer was coated on one, left for 2 hours, lightly sanded, the high spots taken down with 220 grit, then back over with 600, the 1000, then a second coat was applied, left for a hour, then i checked for pits, sprayed them, left it for another 2 hours, then went over with 600 grit, the checked high spots, lighty used 220 grit....very very lightly with a small piece of sand paper and no sanding block, 600 those spots again, the 1000grit, then started painting it with the colour.
Last edited by salemboicot at Jul 21, 2008,
#26
Uh, you guys.

I snipped the wires to the pickups and everything. I just cut them. I need to re strip them to get them back in. I wrote a rough diagram to where I think I can do it, but I'd rather have a professional do it.

I'm buying a Seymour Duncan SH-12 Screamin Demon and a Seymour Duncan SH-8 Invader for the neck. How much would it cost to have a professional set everything again?


Was it a bad idea to just *cut* the wores from where they were soldered?


Here's everything cut off, with my messy notes to reassemble them.

#28
But I had to detach them somewhere.. the Line Out jack is on the outside and can only be removed that way so it was necessary to cut them.

I have solder and a solder gun if that helps. I just want to know how much someone would charge me to put it back together
#30
I have a wiring diagram I made exactly before i took it out.

It's just that i have huge clumsy hands and i think i might mess something up while putting it back together.

Like, on some of the cables, it splits into two. I dont want to mess that up
#31
when i remove wires I touch the contact with my soldering iron and the wire would just pull through the eyelet... then touch it again and while the solder is hot stab through it with an exacto knife to open the hole up a little...
Support your local luthier!

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#32
Quote by injected






Thanks !


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#33
no way... you are going about this completely wrong. sand all of that black paint off of there and get back to a nice smooth base. if my comp was working i would've been able to tell you this before. just go to the autobody store and pick up some duplicolor in spray cans. buy two small cans of black one of blue and 2 or 3 clear. spray one coat let dry for 5 minutes. spray another coat let dry five minutes. if you have ANY runs in your finish wait overnight to sand them out. ESPECIALLY since your using spray cans. once you have the blac base tape off the parts you do not want painted. go over the parts you do want painted blue with the blue paint. when thats done with switch over to your clear and shoot atleast 5-8 coats of that on there. wait 2 weeks and wetsand and buff it. then let it cure completely before painting. you can not get a professional finish with a 2 dollar can of spray paint
#34
I always had a theory that retards rust...

That dodgy paintjob after the first spray could've turned into something quite artistic
MaKing thE possiBlE...
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#35
Quote by carousel182
no way... you are going about this completely wrong. sand all of that black paint off of there and get back to a nice smooth base. if my comp was working i would've been able to tell you this before. just go to the autobody store and pick up some duplicolor in spray cans. buy two small cans of black one of blue and 2 or 3 clear. spray one coat let dry for 5 minutes. spray another coat let dry five minutes. if you have ANY runs in your finish wait overnight to sand them out. ESPECIALLY since your using spray cans. once you have the blac base tape off the parts you do not want painted. go over the parts you do want painted blue with the blue paint. when thats done with switch over to your clear and shoot atleast 5-8 coats of that on there. wait 2 weeks and wetsand and buff it. then let it cure completely before painting. you can not get a professional finish with a 2 dollar can of spray paint



Alright.. thanks.. i'm going to do this, because I don't feel confident right now with it.

I'm guessing duplicator is a good brand then?


Since I'm doing only one side at a time, do I wait overnight to flip and do the other side, or should I just finish one side completely then do the other?

Also, when I sand it down again tomorrow, should I just get it down to the blue again, then actually buy/use 2-3 coats of PRIMER?

thanks
#36
No primer, just sand it down to the blue. You could use primer if you wanted to, but i don't know that its necessary. Duplicolor is a good brand that ive used a few times with good results.


Don't paint one side at a time. Just hang the guitar and do both sides, doing one side at a time is pointless. If you spray nice easy thin coats you will be fine.
#37
All right, sounds good. I guess I'll just skip the primer. When you've painted guitars, I'm guessing you didn't use it?


I think the crappy job right now is because i'm using enamel. I've also read from a few places it is very hard to apply. Duplicator is acrylic lacquer, right? What kind of clear coat should I get?

I'll get better results that way?


Since the guitar is going to be hanging, what's the best way to get into the cutaways? From above?

What about the bottom?


Also, one more thing, do you have any pictures of guitars you've painted with duplicolor?

Thanks!
#38
Carousel182 has it spot on. I did cringe my way through the first page of your thread!

Here is a picture of a guitar that is painted with the same type of paint as duplicolor - although we don't get that brand over here.



Just take your time, and do thin coats, and when you are sanding, remember that the paint is thinest around the edges and it's easy to sand right through it!

Don't ever spray it lying down either - hanging it is a much better way to go.
#39
Wow, that looks very professional. Tomorrow I guess I'll grab some Duplicator.


Is it OK to paint during a storm? Here's what I had in mind:


Outside, it's humid. Humid enough to where I don't want it to be drying out there for fear of ruining the paint. Tomorrow and for a week straight there's going to be storms and rain. Not torrential, but it'll be a fair amount. Outside, I have an area connected to the house that has a roof. I wanted to hang it, paint it, and once i'm done coating it, move it inside and run a fan on LOW next to it to blow air. We have air conditioning too so that will help.

Is this a good plan?

here's the forecast....

http://www.weather.com/outlook/travel/businesstraveler/tenday/85710?from=36hr_topnav_business
Last edited by injected at Jul 22, 2008,
#40
Yeah, it came out ok for my first attempt. It's not to hard if you use the right materials and you take your time and put on THIN coats.

As for the weather - I don't really know - I did it on a warm, still day with very low humidity - We don't get weather like you are describing too often!! Sorry I can't help with that!
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