#1
I am embarking on my first self build guitar project, I am making a string thru body and was just wondering three things:

1. what size holes would be suitable for the strings to go through.

2. what are the plastic (or metal) things called that sit in the holes to stop the ball on the end of the string coming through?

3. when it comes to wiring what is the best way of grouding the electrics to the bridge? (I know how to ground to a tremolo bridge but I am using a fixed bridge.)

I live in the UK so if anyone knows any good suppliers of hardwoods please let me know.
#3
1) doesnt matter as long as the strings fit, what I did is drilled the mounting hole for the top ferrule all the way through the body, and then drilled the back ferrules after, that makes the string holes 4mm

2) ferrules

3) for TOMs you have to get a wire to the post mount, and put the wire in before you put the bridge posts in, and then connect it to ground, hard tail is the same just under the bridge and connect it to your other grounds.




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#5
OK cool sounds simple enough, is there any need to solder it like on a tremolo style bridge?
#6
So am I right in saying that the top hole of the ferrule is narrower than the bottom hole so that when you insert the string the ball is held in place by the narrowing of the hole.

How do you hold the ferrules in place? Are they just held in by a snug fitting hole or do they need to be glued etc...?

Thanks for the quick responses
#7
Well you have top and back ferrules

the back ones require a larger mounting hole, but have a small hole in them to stop the string ball, these can be held in place with a snug fitting, also string tension will hold them in

and the top ferrules stay in play also with snug fitting holes.

I guess you could glue them in, but drilling the right size hole is a better idea.




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

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Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

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Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#8
ABout the grounding 'issue', here's what I'm doing:

I'm using active pickups, which are internally grounded, so that I don't have to wire a bridge ground. Yeah, I'm lazy, and 18V EMGs sound great (in my opinion).
#9
OK thats great thanks at least I now know what Im looking for and I have found a few sets online now to buy

All I need now is to find a good supplier of wood in the UK who is willing to ship to me!! LOL!! I have found a few pieces online but nothing is standing out so far.... Where do all you guys get your woods and roughly how much does it cost for a body sized piece??
#11
Quote by kingkill_33
OK thats great thanks at least I now know what Im looking for and I have found a few sets online now to buy

All I need now is to find a good supplier of wood in the UK who is willing to ship to me!! LOL!! I have found a few pieces online but nothing is standing out so far.... Where do all you guys get your woods and roughly how much does it cost for a body sized piece??


Either look on the Tonetech website, or order a Craft Supplies catalogue. Failing that, try David Dyke - the man has EVERYTHING that you could ever need, but it's a bit pricey, and the prices on the website don't include VAT, which stings you a little.

My neck blank was £22 from Tonetech (enough maple for a 25.5" scale neck-through), the body blank was £28 from Tonetech (for a board of alder, which I cut in half for a 2-piece body), and the fingerboard was £22 from Craft Supplies (ebony - 25.5" scale, 16" radius, slotted for 24 frets).

Craft supplies have a MASSIVE selection of stock, and 99% of it is not listed on their website - so either give them a call, or get a catalogue.

http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk
www.craft-supplies.co.uk
www.luthierssupplies.co.uk
#12
Thanks I had already been looking on tonetech, how is their wood in terms of quality and what preparation was needed with your body blank? Also how much was the shipping for the wood from tonetech?

Thank you for pointing me in the direction of David Dyke although I just noticed his prices LOL!!
#13
Personally Im not happy with the quality of craft supplies, its going down hill.

So I'm willing to pay the extra for Davids stuff.




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man
#14
Why would you need to connect the bridge to ground?

N00b question.
Plays:
Schecter Hellraiser Solo-6 FR Limited
Parker Mojo Fly
Ibanez SZR 720
Tanglewood Evolution
LaPatrie Etude DEMO
'66 Hagstrom Viking I (customized)
SGR C-7 (defretted)
Agile Intrepid 828

Amp, Pedals:
Laney LV300
BOSS RC-20XL
#15
Quote by kingkill_33
Thanks I had already been looking on tonetech, how is their wood in terms of quality and what preparation was needed with your body blank? Also how much was the shipping for the wood from tonetech?

Thank you for pointing me in the direction of David Dyke although I just noticed his prices LOL!!


The board that I bought was pretty much unprepared, and that's exactly how they advertise them. They're 50mm thick and super-long, so they need cutting in half, and thicknessing/planing. You can still buy prepared blanks, which just need shape cutting, but they're obviously a bit more expensive, and I was happy to do the work on mine.

I'd never ordered from Tonetech before this build, and I'd never ordered wood, so I was a bit apprehensive. I was really impressed, though. Their prices are very reasonable, and they don't try to catch you out with P&P - it's proportional to weight, instead of a flat-rate, which some places charge. I think that my P&P was £11, for a massive alder board, a maple bass neck blank (same as a normal guitar, but long enough for the neck-through), some binding, and Titebond. I thought that was pretty reasonable, considering how it wasn't exactly a light or small parcel.
#16
I think you ground the electrics to the bridge to eliminate any "noise" which would cause unwanted humming. The electrics are also grounded to each tone / volume pot where they are simply soldered to the metal casing of the pot.

Not a scientifically solid answer but its just what I thought it was for lol.
#17
Quote by -MintSauce-
The board that I bought was pretty much unprepared, and that's exactly how they advertise them. They're 50mm thick and super-long, so they need cutting in half, and thicknessing/planing. You can still buy prepared blanks, which just need shape cutting, but they're obviously a bit more expensive, and I was happy to do the work on mine.

I'd never ordered from Tonetech before this build, and I'd never ordered wood, so I was a bit apprehensive. I was really impressed, though. Their prices are very reasonable, and they don't try to catch you out with P&P - it's proportional to weight, instead of a flat-rate, which some places charge. I think that my P&P was £11, for a massive alder board, a maple bass neck blank (same as a normal guitar, but long enough for the neck-through), some binding, and Titebond. I thought that was pretty reasonable, considering how it wasn't exactly a light or small parcel.



The P&P sounds very reasonable for what you ordered, I have seen some places charging £15+ for one body blank!! I was looking for a thickness of around 45mm so 50mm would be ideal thickness for me to plane down (although I have never worked with wood before I have plenty of reference material LOL!!)

I assume you made a 2 piece body, what clamps did you use to hold it together during gluing and how long rounghly does it need to sit in the clamps until a solid bond is formed?
#18
Quote by kingkill_33
The P&P sounds very reasonable for what you ordered, I have seen some places charging £15+ for one body blank!! I was looking for a thickness of around 45mm so 50mm would be ideal thickness for me to plane down (although I have never worked with wood before I have plenty of reference material LOL!!)

I assume you made a 2 piece body, what clamps did you use to hold it together during gluing and how long rounghly does it need to sit in the clamps until a solid bond is formed?


Before you order, see if there are any woodwork businesses in the area - they might be happy to run a blank through the thicknesser for next to nothing. It would save a lot of work, because planing wood of that size down accurately by 5mm is NOT easy (even with an electric planer).

I used the blank to make two wings for a Rhoads-style V. I glued the wings on one at a time, with the neck being held in a vice, two G-clamps with blocks of wood along the seam (to keep the wing parallel to the body), and two F-clamps applying vertical pressure (to force the gluing surfaces together). Titebond tacks easily, and they state a time of 2 hours before removing clamps, but i left them on for a day. If you've got a few spare tacking pins, cut some down, and hammer them in to aid locating the wings - once the glue gets splattered on, they slip like *****s.
#19
Titebond is a great glue but I always leave it at least 24 hours before I even take the clamps off.




Quote by dogismycopilot
Absent Mind, words cant express how much i love you. Id bone you, oh yea.

Quote by lumberjack
Absent Mind is, as usual, completely correct.

Quote by littlemurph7976
Id like to make my love for Neil public knowledge as he is a beautiful man