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#1
Well I just bought a used B-52 AT-100 head on ebay and it sounds amazing on my 2x12 Avatar cab. It's not nearly as nice cosmetically, though. Here is a list of some modifications I would like to make:

1 The tolex is ridiculously soft and isn't even glued down in most places. I would like to get some to match the cab which I think has "Fender style tolex." Here is what I was thinking about getting. Does anyone know about the quality on this stuff?
http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/item.asp?pid=79709&pg=45012&id=7310001

2 The corner pieces are pretty dinged up and I would like to have them match the cab. I found some online that look pretty close. Once again, does anyone know the quality and how much they will match the cab?
http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/item.asp?pid=17389&pg=44978&id=3048000

3 I would like to add handles to the side and get rid on the one on the top. The head is quite heavy and is heavier on the one side which makes it hard to carry. I'm not sure what kind will work on the head though. I was thinking about something like this.
http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/item.asp?pid=604751&pg=44962&id=5224005

4 I have heard that earlier models of the AT-100 had problems with overheating so I'm thinking about adding 2 computer cooling fans in the back. The reverb tank says it was made in 2005 so I'm assuming that's when the head was made. Does anyone know what year(s) the problem was happening? Do you think I will need them?

I'm gonna add some pictures once I get the camera's battery charged.
Quote by Invader Jim
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#3
Here is the pic from the auction. It doesn't really show the tolex very well. This is the first time I've tried uploading a picture so I don't know if it's gonna work.
Attachments:
head.JPG
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#4
oh? well.. ya id put new corner pieces on if it matches your cab , but idk, i like the handles on top, but its up to you,
how much did u paqy
#5
with those handles it looks like you'll probably have to carve into the side of your amp.... do you really want to do that to your new amp?
O O

___
#6
The head was $325 plus $40 shipping. I have heard that the tolex on B-52s in general isn't very good. Does anyone know?
I'm still working on getting the pics.
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#7
Quote by TheBax
with those handles it looks like you'll probably have to carve into the side of your amp.... do you really want to do that to your new amp?


ya i was gonna say that but i just figured he knew.. but ..
ill troll later gtg
#8
Quote by dlabooda
The head was $325 plus $40 shipping. I have heard that the tolex on B-52s in general isn't very good. Does anyone know?
I'm still working on getting the pics.



wow, no idk,
im getting a spider 2 75 watt head for 125 :P dont flame me :| its cheap
#9
Ok, quick question, I have the photos uploaded on phtobucket but how do I add them and get them to display?
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#10
Quote by black-serenade-
wow, no idk,
im getting a spider 2 75 watt head for 125 :P dont flame me :| its cheap

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Seriously, you'll hate yourself for it one day.... please, just put up a thread, and try to find something else... please! I'M TRYING TO SAVE YOU!


EDIT: just get the code for the pic, and post it in here....
O O

___
#11
This is my half stack, just so you can get an idea.


Here's the corner of the cab. It's kind of hard to tell from the pic, but the corner piece is chrome. I can't get a picture that shows the grain of the tolex very well.


Just so you can get an idea of how loose the tolex is. The flaps aren't even glued down. Everywhere else it seems like it was glued down with a kid's glue stick.


Here are some of the scuffs. I know it's not too bad in this pic, but in some places there are big chunks missing that go through to the wood.


I have an idea about how I'm gonna redo the tolex. I'll just take out the whole part with the tubes and knobs and all then I'll be left with the wooden frame. Is that the best way to go about doing this?
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#12
Anyone? I was hoping to get started tomorrow and I don't want to break something or electrocute myself.

In case you didn't notice what I typed under the last picture, here it is: "I have an idea about how I'm gonna redo the tolex. I'll just take out the whole part with the tubes and knobs and all then I'll be left with the wooden frame. Is that the best way to go about doing this?"
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#13
I think I'm settled on the tolex and the corners:
http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/item.asp?pid=79709&pg=45012&id=7310001
http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/item.asp?pid=17389&pg=44978&id=3048000

But I'm still trying to decide on handles.
http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/item.asp?pid=604751&pg=44962&id=5224005
-or-
http://www.usspeaker.com/sh-H1065-1.htm
Does anyone have any experience with these and which do you reccomend?

Also, what kind of glue should I get to attach the tolex?
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#14
Yes, the best bet is to remove everything from the wooden frame itself. You're going to end up doing some sanding, possibly some filling, maybe some gluing, more sanding, spraying glu, etc. So remove all that stuff. just make sure it's not plugged in obviosuly and when you grab it to remove it jsut be careful not to touch any capacitors. I did it to mine and gave myself a bit of a shock.

Check the links in my sig if you'd like for reference and I also have some helpful links that you might want.

Tolexing tutorial

Edit: Tolex is a type of vinyl and home depot sells spray adhesive specifically for vinyl and rubber products. The stuff works great and cleans up very well. I'm actually getting another can in about 30 minutes. I'll edit later and let you know the exact number. I think it's 3M 90 but I'll make sure.

If you need further help, feel free to send me a message. I'll help however I can.
Guitar:
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Carvin X100B - Bias Mod - Tungsol 12AX7's - JJ KT77's

I have built the most badass 212 that puts all others to shame
Last edited by MeanwiththeDean at Jul 25, 2008,
#15
just make sure it's not plugged in obviosuly and when you grab it to remove it jsut be careful not to touch any capacitors. I did it to mine and gave myself a bit of a shock.

Yeah, mabey you should tell me what and where the capacitators are.
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#16
Just don't touch any of the internal electronics and you'll be safe. Another way to make sure you don't accidentally shock yourself is to have your ON and STANDBY switch in the ON positions (amp unplugged from wall socket). When I first started messing with electronics, I read that somewhere on the Carvin forums and it worked for me and others as well. It allows the electricity from the capacitors to discharge a bit.
Guitar:
Dean Vendetta 3 - Dave Mustaine Livewires

Amplifier
Carvin X100B - Bias Mod - Tungsol 12AX7's - JJ KT77's

I have built the most badass 212 that puts all others to shame
#17
Ok I got the amp all disassembled (and I didn't even electrocute myself )

The main wood still has some sticky stuff left on it. It is not as much glue as it is tacky and I was wondering if I need to sand it off or if I can leave it alone. I tried sanding it using 100 grit sandpaper, steel wool, and an electric sander but it doesn't want to come off. The thing that works the best is metal putty knife. It got the bulk of what was left but it's still just a little sticky.
The back panel is another story. It is made of a cheaper plywood and when i sand it it doesn't sand flat. The glue was also better and there is a lot left on it. the thinner top layers are peeling off in some places and I'm thinking about making a new one.

I'm uploading the pics now so I'll add them a little later.
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#18
This the whole electronics assembly.


The main cabinet (or whatever you call it)


The back panel


Here is some of the peeling


More peeling
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#19
u should get the tolex from partsparts they have a better price for it and they get theirs strat from fender
#20
Here are some more pictures. I'm gonna try and make a new back because the old one is hopless. I have the tolex, corners, and handles ordered. And they should be here in a few days.

I have a question about the handles. They are recessed so I'm gonna have to rout out the wood. I may only be left with an 1/8 inch of wood. Should I leave that little layer or just cut out a hole in the wood?

In the first pic you can see a crack in the wood. Is this anything to be concerned with? The frame almost seems a little wobbly so I put some wood glue in the corners of the bracing just to make sure.


Here is another view of the crack


Here is a good overall view of the frame


Here is the corner of the frame
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#21
I guess I haven't thought about the fans yet. Does anyone have any experience with their B-52 overheating? I have no idea how I would go about doing the electronics. If I'm gonna make my own back board, I guess I could custom make it to fit 2 fans. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Edit: I've decided to hold off on the fans for now because frankly, I am broke.
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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Last edited by dlabooda at Jul 26, 2008,
#22
make a pine frame
jackson dk2 2008
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£8.50/58fund for a ROCKTRON HUSH SUPER C PEDAL
#23
I got the glue. Is this the right stuff for the tolex? The guy at the store said it was pretty unforgiving. Is that true?
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#24
You hammered this can't wait to see the amp re-tolexed and also I am gonna make a suggestion for you to steal the badge of the amp and bang it on a plexi front.

Gear
Gibson Les Paul Traditional
Carvin V3 and Marhall 1960A cab
2 B.C. Rich Ironbird Pro
Schecter Hellraiser 6
Boss ML-2

#25
Quote by KISSguitarist
You hammered this can't wait to see the amp re-tolexed and also I am gonna make a suggestion for you to steal the badge of the amp and bang it on a plexi front.


That's a cool idea but the way the amp is configured, the transformers are in front of most of the tubes, so it wouldn't look as cool.

I still haven't gotten any answers about weather I need to sand off all of sticky stuff or not.
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#26
always just get a small room fan and plug it in behind the tubes? lol
I was thinking about adding fans into my b-52 at112, but after some people talking I found that you can add some 60 hz hum if you add fans into the wiring...

As for taking off the sticky stuff... I would say yes. From what I heard tolex requries a lot of stretching and getting it on the wood as tight as possible, and if you have some already dried sticky adhesive I could see that making it a bit more difficult
-------------------------------
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#27
As far as the crack in the wood goes, I would apply some wood glue around the crack and then clamp it over night, but use a metal clamp so you don't glue it to cabinet. It should straighten itself out.

Sand all the glue off. The tolex does NOT need to be stretched when you apply it. Only if you're applying to an odd shape, which you're not.

The 90 glue you got is pretty unforgiving. You may be able to use it but I suggest going with number 80. It's specifically made for vinyl which is what tolex is.

Your amp seems to be vented all the way around so you should only need one fan. Mount it in the upper corner on the back panel right above the tubes. Get a silenX fan because the are very very quiet.
Guitar:
Dean Vendetta 3 - Dave Mustaine Livewires

Amplifier
Carvin X100B - Bias Mod - Tungsol 12AX7's - JJ KT77's

I have built the most badass 212 that puts all others to shame
#28
So I guess I'll return the 90. How many cans do you need to do the entire head? Like I said I'm probably gonna hold off on the fans for now. I guess a belt sander would be the best way to get the glue off. How should I sand the rounded edges though? The belt sander would probably take off too much.
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#29
Quote by dlabooda
So I guess I'll return the 90. How many cans do you need to do the entire head? Like I said I'm probably gonna hold off on the fans for now. I guess a belt sander would be the best way to get the glue off. How should I sand the rounded edges though? The belt sander would probably take off too much.



For my head, I ended up running out right at the last minute with 1 can. You can always return any unused cans. A belt sander will do the trick. I went the safe route and used an air finish sander but just be careful with that belt sander. Again, in my opinion, the safest route is always the best unless you have lots of experience. So i would say to tackle the rough edges with hand sanding.

A lot of people will tell you to use some type of liquid goo remover like Goo gone or something. That's entirely up to you, but to give you a different perspective, in my opinion the wood could soak up some of the goo remover and hinder proper adhesion of the tolex. So again, the safest bet is to use the sander to get the glue off. It really shouldn't take that long. I sanded my entire 412 with the finish sander in less than an hour if I remember correctly. If I had a belt sander it would have taken half that.

Since you're waiting on the fan, the only advice I can give is that when you play your setup, try not to have it pressed right up against the wall as this will reduce the cooling capability. A couple inches should do.

I used an external wall-wart to power my fans rather than tapping directly into the amp's wiring. So you can always go that route if you're afraid of the 60Hz interference.
Guitar:
Dean Vendetta 3 - Dave Mustaine Livewires

Amplifier
Carvin X100B - Bias Mod - Tungsol 12AX7's - JJ KT77's

I have built the most badass 212 that puts all others to shame
#30
Ok, but what exactly is an air finish sander? About what grit sandpaper should I use for hand sanding and for the belt sander if I do go that rout?
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#31
Quote by dlabooda
Ok, but what exactly is an air finish sander? About what grit sandpaper should I use for hand sanding and for the belt sander if I do go that rout?


I think it's actually called an air powered orbital sander. I was just repeating what my dad said he used it for at his work. With both types of sanding i would go with 80 grit. Just check your progress with the belt sander frequently.
Guitar:
Dean Vendetta 3 - Dave Mustaine Livewires

Amplifier
Carvin X100B - Bias Mod - Tungsol 12AX7's - JJ KT77's

I have built the most badass 212 that puts all others to shame
#32
So is THIS the right stuff? I don't have any updates on the frame. I'm still working on sanding the thing. I'm afraid the belt sander may take off too much so I may just hand sand it and use a heavier grit sandpaper.

Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#33
^^^^^^

Your on the right track. Get started
Guitar:
Dean Vendetta 3 - Dave Mustaine Livewires

Amplifier
Carvin X100B - Bias Mod - Tungsol 12AX7's - JJ KT77's

I have built the most badass 212 that puts all others to shame
#34
Well here she is. 8 hours, 2 packages of sandpaper, 3 liters of soda, and a few blisters later I finally finished sanding.
If anyone is sanding gunk off of a head or cab us 60 grit sandpaper. 100 grit gets clogged after a few strokes (trust me, I would know)





I also got started on the new back piece. I'm gonna cut out the center with a jig saw or saber saw or whatever you call it. Oh, and the tolex and hardware is coming wednesday.

Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#35
Looks great so far! You're past the initial hump of the tear down and now it get's really exciting doesn't it? Do you have a router or have anybody that could let you borrow one? or even someone who could do it for you? Because a router will give you the best straight cut possible for the cutout on that panel and it will be a perfect mirror image of the one that came off the head.
Guitar:
Dean Vendetta 3 - Dave Mustaine Livewires

Amplifier
Carvin X100B - Bias Mod - Tungsol 12AX7's - JJ KT77's

I have built the most badass 212 that puts all others to shame
#36
Would a router be able to cut through 3/4 inch plywood? I was gonna use a straight edge to guide to saber saw.
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#37
Quote by dlabooda
Would a router be able to cut through 3/4 inch plywood? I was gonna use a straight edge to guide to saber saw.


Oh yeah. When I was doing my head I had a 2" long flush cutting bit and you can adjust the depth and stuff too. A saw will work and you can great results with it. I'm just making a suggestion because a router will give you the best possible cut if you have access to one. I wouldn't go out and buy one just for that one piece though.
Guitar:
Dean Vendetta 3 - Dave Mustaine Livewires

Amplifier
Carvin X100B - Bias Mod - Tungsol 12AX7's - JJ KT77's

I have built the most badass 212 that puts all others to shame
#38
My grandpa thinks he has a router but I'm sure he doesn't have a bit like that. How much would something like that cost?
Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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#39
I got all of the supplies. I also got a router, so I think I'm set.
Originally I wanted to use only one piece of tolex for the entire thing, but the piece I got isn't long enough. I guess I'll have one piece for the top and sides, and then another pice for the bottom. Is that the way I should do it? Does the bottom piece go above the top and side piece, or vice versa?



Here's the handle. I'm just gonna rout out the hole for the handle instead of cutting all the way through the wood.

Quote by Invader Jim
The questions people ask here makes me wonder how the TS's dress themselves in the morning and can shower without drowning...

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