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#1
Sometime ago i was going to build a dean splittail but then i got tired of that shape. Then i played a charvel star on a shop and liked the shape. This guitar is inspired on the 80's charvels and jacksons but has some modern features.

Specs:

-24 fret maple neck with ebony fretboard and dots from stewmac
-neck through
-gotoh wilkinson VS100
-1 humbucker at the bridge and 1 single coil sized humbucker at the neck (don't know which yet)
-ash bodywings
-Locking tuners (schaller or sperzels)
-black hardware



I also don't know about the control knobs. Guitars with 1 knob and 1 pickup look really cool but are not versatile. I would like to have a les paul style configuration but that would look aesthetically unpleasing on this style of guitar.

I want a good bridge pickup for metal that is great for solos and clear. I want it to be bright when playing leads but warm when playing rhythm. My guitar will probably be bright due to the woods. The bridge pickup must also be good for low distortion. Resuming: great for metal and leads and versatile.

The neck pickup must be good for cleans kind like an SD 59.

NO ACTIVE PICKUPS.


Currently i'm making MDF templates to route the body and the headstock. They are completly handmade and i'm having special care to the lateral surfaces. They must be approximately square.


Headstock cut


Sanded to the line. It looks a bit bigger than the card headstock but its fine for me and doesn't make difference. Even the trained eyes from jackson charvel fanatics can't notice when everything is built.

The body template is almost done. I will post pictures when it is done.

MAIN QUESTION: Can I route the body shape with the wings glued to the neck?
Last edited by superbadboy2 at Jul 27, 2008,
#4
Quote by superbadboy2
My english is getting worse...


Hah, everyone has bad days!

If you're worried about cluttered controls, how about using a push-pull pot instead of a three-way selector?

That's what I'm going to do for my next build.. like George Lynch. You don't have a pickup selector, you just have the switch part of the push-pull to engage the neck pickup. It means that you wouldn't be able to select the neck on its own though :\
#5
Stars with 4 knobs look too complex. The essence of this guitar is simplicity like having a great sound using only the essential parts for it to work.

This star looks like a Dean ML.



I can do something like this. Is it possible to have a concentric knob that controles tone and volume from the same pickup? If so I might put 2 concentric knobs for each pickup and a switch on the horn like on the second image. How are the wire tunnels made?
Last edited by superbadboy2 at Jul 28, 2008,
#6
Wire tunnel for the switch is (in this case) routed from the back, probably.
Gear:
Schecter Hellraiser Deluxe
Boss DS-1
Crate GTD65

GAS List:
Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier Roadster
#8
I finished the templates and cut the headstock to glue the part on the side.


The sides from the template are almost perfect.



Now I have one problem. The glueing surfaces from the headstock piece and the headstock are not perfectly flat. How can i make them perfectly flat? I tried using sanding blocks but the edges get a bit round.
#9


Here you can see a small piece of maple being glued. The big glued part isn't that well glued because it didn't fit really tightly but i believe that the glue is going to hold it.



I cut the headstcok using a manual jigsaw and now i'm sanding to the line using rasps ans sanding paper. Its really time consuming because this maple is hard. I could use the template that i made and route it but i dont want to screw up the headstock. I marked the lines with a pen because the pencil lines were disapearing all the time. The headstock is going to be painted so there is no problem with pen marks.
#10
how did you make your templates?
Quote by asfastasdark
+1. This man knows his ****.


Walker Rose.
#11
The MDF ones or the card ones? I made a thread about making card templates sometime ago. Ofr the MDF ones i used ... MDF then i traced the lines using a card template. To cut, i used a jig saw. I cut outside the line and sanded to it. I used a sanding block so that the edges are square.
#14
The headstock is done. I will probably sand it later to make it smoother.


The holes are not that well aligned but i will sand them later when i get the tuners.



It has a small volute.



I glued the wings separatly. Its easier to align.
#16
Very nice.
Current Gear:
LTD MH-400 with Gotoh GE1996T (EMG 85/60)
PRS SE Custom 24 (Suhr SSH+/SSV)
Ibanez RG3120 Prestige (Dimarzio Titans)
Squier Vintage Modified 70s Jazz V
Audient iD22 interface
Peavey Revalver 4, UAD Friedman BE100/DS40
Adam S3A monitors
Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#18
^I'm not skilled enough for that yet. This is my first build. So far so good...

The second body wing is glued. Now Im going to sand the body smooth because it is slightly uneven specialy on the back. The neck is thicker that the body wings and they are even on the front.

EDIT. Can I use the router to cut through the wood to the final shape and then use a template? Or do i need to cut near the line using a saw and then use the router and template for an accurate shape? I'm asking this because i don't have electric saws. It will take ours to cut with a manual jigsaw.
Last edited by superbadboy2 at Aug 6, 2008,
#19
Yeah, you could cut it out with a router. Just be sure to go slow and only cut like an 1/8th" or 1/4" at a time into the wood. If you try to hog out an inch at once, you will ruin a bit or router or hurt yourself.

Do you have a bearing guide bit to follow the template? You could just start on an end and follow the template cutting a little deeper with each pass. Assuming your bearing guide is the same size as the bit, then you just keep going deeper until you've cut all the way through.

Those tuner holes look pretty rough, man. You may want to dowel some of them up and redrill them to get them in a straight line. Man, that part was hard figure out when I learned it in school... drawing the holes in the right places. You need to measure them out carefully and use a punch or something to mark the center of the hole, then use a small pilot bit. Next use a brad point bit to drill them, eliminating tearout and controlling the cut. (regular drill bits can go wild and cut an angle or tearout really bad)

It also helps to drill halfway from each side sometimes, keeping both top and bottom aligned on your pilot hole.
All my photobucket pics are dead so no links to my guitar build threads.
My Music
#20
I would think neck through would be easier, since there's less to mess up.
Current Gear:
LTD MH-400 with Gotoh GE1996T (EMG 85/60)
PRS SE Custom 24 (Suhr SSH+/SSV)
Ibanez RG3120 Prestige (Dimarzio Titans)
Squier Vintage Modified 70s Jazz V
Audient iD22 interface
Peavey Revalver 4, UAD Friedman BE100/DS40
Adam S3A monitors
Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#21
He meant he should actually build the entire neck next time. He bought a pre-fabbed neck that is a neck thru, and is building the guitar around it now.


Easier in some ways, much more difficult in others. Luckily most of the hardest stuff is done for you when you buy what he did.

Problem now is that he will have to wield an entire guitar around while he's shaping this thing... and if he slips up, he could damage the neck, which ruins everything sometimes.
All my photobucket pics are dead so no links to my guitar build threads.
My Music
#22
oh, thanks for clearing that up.
Current Gear:
LTD MH-400 with Gotoh GE1996T (EMG 85/60)
PRS SE Custom 24 (Suhr SSH+/SSV)
Ibanez RG3120 Prestige (Dimarzio Titans)
Squier Vintage Modified 70s Jazz V
Audient iD22 interface
Peavey Revalver 4, UAD Friedman BE100/DS40
Adam S3A monitors
Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#23
Quote by zeroyon
Yeah, you could cut it out with a router. Just be sure to go slow and only cut like an 1/8th" or 1/4" at a time into the wood. If you try to hog out an inch at once, you will ruin a bit or router or hurt yourself.

Do you have a bearing guide bit to follow the template? You could just start on an end and follow the template cutting a little deeper with each pass. Assuming your bearing guide is the same size as the bit, then you just keep going deeper until you've cut all the way through.

Those tuner holes look pretty rough, man. You may want to dowel some of them up and redrill them to get them in a straight line. Man, that part was hard figure out when I learned it in school... drawing the holes in the right places. You need to measure them out carefully and use a punch or something to mark the center of the hole, then use a small pilot bit. Next use a brad point bit to drill them, eliminating tearout and controlling the cut. (regular drill bits can go wild and cut an angle or tearout really bad)

It also helps to drill halfway from each side sometimes, keeping both top and bottom aligned on your pilot hole.


I have a router bit with a ball bearing on top (not between the router and the drill). I wanted one with the bearing on the other side but they are very hard to find.

About the tuner holes. They just need to be sanded to make the corrections and because they are 10 mm and the tuners are also 10 mm so i need to sand a bit. I drawed on the headstock and i made small marks using a pen tip. The problem is that my driller lacks accuracy.

Now i'm sanding the back so that everything is flat.

I must start to think about the hardware. I want a gotoh wilkinson vs100 and locking tuners maybe schallers. About pickups i want one hot humbucker for metal and leads and a single coil for the neck position. The guitar might be bright sounding so warm pickups will compensate that. I don't want active pickups. The single coil on the neck is going to be used for cleans. Suggest me some pickups.
Last edited by superbadboy2 at Aug 6, 2008,
#24
Rough cut. It was the first time i used a jigsaw.



The guitar is getting lighter. It will not be heavy as i thought.
Now the hardest part is to use the router for the edges. I have never used a router.

I'm leaning towards a dimarzio super distortion as a bridge position and a stacked single coil for the neck position. Do you think that they match because i heard that if the output from the pickups are not similar, the lower output one will have a decrease in volume when switched to.
#25
Make a template out of MDF, clamp it to the top, then use a guided router bit.. otherwise you run the risk of slicing into that lovely body.

Anyway, this is coming along nicely, and looks tres neat! Stars are awesome, too - I'm dying to build one

Keep up the good work.
#26
I already made a template out of MDF. I have a router bit like this and an handheld router. I will put the template on the top of the body (template is thicker than the fretboard) and route it from the back.
To make the cavities i will try the rails that came with my router.
Last edited by superbadboy2 at Aug 9, 2008,
#27
Quote by superbadboy2
I already made a template out of MDF. I have a router bit like this and an handheld router. I will put the template on the top of the body (template is thicker than the fretboard) and route it from the back.
To make the cavities i will try the rails that came with my router.



Excellent!

That's the one thing I wish that I'd done, tbh. Our router is a 2kW Trend beast, and it scared the Bejesus out of me.. so I didn't use it for anything really.
#28
^I could sand to the lines with sanding blocks but that would take years. Tomorrow i'm going to practice routing and if I feel comfortable with it i will route the body tomorrow.
#29
You can get the right bit from Stewmac. It's called a pattern cutter.

Looking good... be careful with it, man.
All my photobucket pics are dead so no links to my guitar build threads.
My Music
#31
Today I routed the body. I used a normal bit and puted two ball bearings from my radio controled car. They are perfect for it. I was lucky with that.


The sides are in diferent tones because i routed in different directions (fliped the body to route the rest).

Its very good for my first guitar. I never used a router before.



I'm going to finish this by hand with rasps and sand paper because routing it is too risky.


Small imperfection.

Minor chip.

Maybe wood paste or sanding to correct this errors. They also might disappear with paint.
Last edited by superbadboy2 at Aug 12, 2008,
#32
Nice. Just be sure to use a block to sand with, so you only sand down the high points until its flat.

Lucky find on the RC car bearings!
All my photobucket pics are dead so no links to my guitar build threads.
My Music
#33
looks good....and it's only your first time making a guitar :O.... wish you best of luck and an incredible guitar !
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"It's not illegal if I don't"
"k, koo"

Imagine if life was like that.

Awesome


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#34
I think that would look pretty cool if it had beveled edges.
Current Gear:
LTD MH-400 with Gotoh GE1996T (EMG 85/60)
PRS SE Custom 24 (Suhr SSH+/SSV)
Ibanez RG3120 Prestige (Dimarzio Titans)
Squier Vintage Modified 70s Jazz V
Audient iD22 interface
Peavey Revalver 4, UAD Friedman BE100/DS40
Adam S3A monitors
Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#36
If you want to have two control knobs but you know 4 is more versitile then what about stacked knobs?

The bottom is one pot and the top another.
Weekend Warrior
#37
^I think that i'm going to use 2 normal control knobs. After i finish my guitar i might mod the electric part. I might put switches to split the coils and fase/paralell switches.

I think that i decided the pickups.

Bridge: Dimarzio dual sound (same as super distortion but with 4 conductor wires)
Neck: Dimarzio Chopper

What do you think?
#38
Tiny update: I bought the hardware. Its all black. I don't have it yet. I bought a schaller roller hardtail bridge, kluson locking tuner (lock from above), Seymour duncan distortion, 2 knobs for tone and volume both are 500kOhm, ON OFF ON mini switch with two rows and the rest f the tiny parts. The switch is going to be for coil taps. That way i can use the lower coil or the upper or both (humbucker). I don't know if i can use a double row switch. See this diagram: http://guitarelectronics.zoovy.com/product/WDUH01102
#39
The neck heel is almost done and i'm going to round the edges today. Its time to start thinking about the finishes.

Transparent finish.

I found this inks from hobby plastic cars
Lots of them are metallic. One of them is gold. They are acrilic and it says that they are water soluble. Water stains raise the grain i think and i'm no very secure with rubing water on the neck. Alcohol stains are better because they dont raise the grain. The painting of transparent colors would be:

grain filler
acrilic ink stain on water or alcohol
handrubbed polyurethane varnish

The finish would be matt. Everything is handrubbed so its easy to do.
I can get linseed oil but it is not as good as varnish. I don't know if the order above is righ so correct me.


Solid Color.




You can suggest other colors. I would use graffiti ink because it has lots of colors, dries fast, is cheap and it must be durable. The finish would be matt without an clear coat. I used to paint my skateboards with grafitti ink. To achieve a flat matt finish i must sand with high grit sandpaper.

Grain filler
Graffiti ink with lots of coats.
no clear coat

Has anyone tried grafitti ink on guitar?
#40
Yellow is pretty cool




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