#1
OK well i have a 6505+ head with a crystal transitor upgrade (dk if that means anything) and its time for new tubes.

What kind of tubes are good for extremly high gain hat the 6505 is known for?

i mean total tube swap
Fender MIA Standard Strat
ESP LTD Viper 407
Epiphone SG
Starcaster by Fender(modded with Bill Lawrence l-500-xl)
PEAVEY 6505+ (FJA transistor modd)
Peavey 65 watt transtube studio-112
Marshall 1960AV
Vader 2x12
ISP Decimator
MXR 10 band EQ
#3
if i put the same tubes that were in there before (new ones, same type/brand...)
would i have to re-bias it?

also how much (approx) would it be to reutbe it professionally?
Fender MIA Standard Strat
ESP LTD Viper 407
Epiphone SG
Starcaster by Fender(modded with Bill Lawrence l-500-xl)
PEAVEY 6505+ (FJA transistor modd)
Peavey 65 watt transtube studio-112
Marshall 1960AV
Vader 2x12
ISP Decimator
MXR 10 band EQ
#4
Quote by doctorcheeze200
if i put the same tubes that were in there before (new ones, same type/brand...)
would i have to re-bias it?

also how much (approx) would it be to reutbe it professionally?

I can't see any tech charging more than $50 if you supply them with the tubes.

If you put in the exact same type of tubes, same brand and all then no.
2008 Schecter C-1 Hellraiser
Currently amp-less!

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#5
sweet!

would the Tech be able to tell me exactly what tubes i have in it already?
Fender MIA Standard Strat
ESP LTD Viper 407
Epiphone SG
Starcaster by Fender(modded with Bill Lawrence l-500-xl)
PEAVEY 6505+ (FJA transistor modd)
Peavey 65 watt transtube studio-112
Marshall 1960AV
Vader 2x12
ISP Decimator
MXR 10 band EQ
#6
Quote by doctorcheeze200
sweet!

would the Tech be able to tell me exactly what tubes i have in it already?

You could actually do that by looking in the back lol.
2008 Schecter C-1 Hellraiser
Currently amp-less!

Fund My GAS
#7
well i see the 4 tubes.
but where are the 12A7Xs?
sorry but i have no idea about the insides of tube amps, all iknow is that i love the tone i get from it.
Fender MIA Standard Strat
ESP LTD Viper 407
Epiphone SG
Starcaster by Fender(modded with Bill Lawrence l-500-xl)
PEAVEY 6505+ (FJA transistor modd)
Peavey 65 watt transtube studio-112
Marshall 1960AV
Vader 2x12
ISP Decimator
MXR 10 band EQ
Last edited by doctorcheeze200 at Jul 30, 2008,
#8
Quote by doctorcheeze200
well i see the 4 tubes.
but where are the 12A7Xs?
sorry but i have no idea about the insides of tube amps, all iknow is that i love the tone i get from it.

There should be a panel on the right side in the back that you can remove. They should all be in there. Its not bad for you to turn it off, unplug it, then pull them out and look at them. You can use a cloth if you're paranoid about being shocked or something.
2008 Schecter C-1 Hellraiser
Currently amp-less!

Fund My GAS
#9
Wrong. The amp can store deadly voltages in the filter caps even with the amplifier is turned off and unplugged.
#10
i see em!!
thanks alot bro
Fender MIA Standard Strat
ESP LTD Viper 407
Epiphone SG
Starcaster by Fender(modded with Bill Lawrence l-500-xl)
PEAVEY 6505+ (FJA transistor modd)
Peavey 65 watt transtube studio-112
Marshall 1960AV
Vader 2x12
ISP Decimator
MXR 10 band EQ
#11
Do not start touching stuff until you're sure the filter caps have been drained.

The filter caps are grounded to the chassis so they can still drain into your body if you are not careful. Several hundred volts can and usually will kill you.
Last edited by al112987 at Jul 30, 2008,
#12
im not goona go touchin/messing with crap, just wanna know where they were.
thanks everybody
Fender MIA Standard Strat
ESP LTD Viper 407
Epiphone SG
Starcaster by Fender(modded with Bill Lawrence l-500-xl)
PEAVEY 6505+ (FJA transistor modd)
Peavey 65 watt transtube studio-112
Marshall 1960AV
Vader 2x12
ISP Decimator
MXR 10 band EQ
#13
Alright, I was just saying since the poster before me said that it should be fine to pull stuff out once the amp was unplugged which is not true at all. Always drain the caps before touching anything.
#14
Quote by al112987
Alright, I was just saying since the poster before me said that it should be fine to pull stuff out once the amp was unplugged which is not true at all. Always drain the caps before touching anything.

that'd the a first for me to hear if someone got shocked by deadly voltages while pulling tubes. being in close contact with those caps is what's so dangerous.
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
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#15
Quote by UnsignedRecords
that'd the a first for me to hear if someone got shocked by deadly voltages while pulling tubes. being in close contact with those caps is what's so dangerous.


pulling the tubes itself is not dangerous but filter caps are grounded to the chassis, you really don't need to be anywhere near them to get electrocuted. Simply touching the wrong places on the chassis with 2 hands could be detrimental to one's health if the caps have not been drained. Especially for someone who doesn't know what hes doing.

Simply a safety measure.
#16
Quote by al112987
Alright, I was just saying since the poster before me said that it should be fine to pull stuff out once the amp was unplugged which is not true at all. Always drain the caps before touching anything.

I've done it multiple times and I'm still here. I just unplugged it and let it sit for about 10 minutes. All we are talking of doing is pulling tubes to get a look at em. Any idiot that wants to open up his chasis and mess around can do that, I think a 10 year old could do this if they followed instructions.

I understand what you're saying, and you're right, but I don't see how he could possibly screw up enough when pulling a tube out to see what kind of tube it is to have that happen.
2008 Schecter C-1 Hellraiser
Currently amp-less!

Fund My GAS
#18
Quote by al112987
pulling the tubes itself is not dangerous but filter caps are grounded to the chassis, you really don't need to be anywhere near them to get electrocuted. Simply touching the wrong places on the chassis with 2 hands could be detrimental to one's health if the caps have not been drained. Especially for someone who doesn't know what hes doing.

Simply a safety measure.

yeah, i know it's playing it safe. but if i didn't know what i was doing (like the ts) i wouldn't crack open the chassis and try to drain the caps at all. i'd just stay away from them and from poking around inside at all, which doesn't involved checking/replacing tubes. as for biasing biasing, yes.
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#19
I always (at least partially) drain the caps before I go into the back (even if its just to check tubes) just by turning the power off while leaving the standby in its "on" position and waiting for my guitar's signal to die off and leaving it for about 10 minutes.
#20
that's a pretty odd way to drain them. what happened to the multimeter-resistor method?
Gibson SG Standard + 18volt EMG-81 & 85
Mesa/Boogie Mark IV + Recto 2x12
Keeley Modded BD-2
Vox V847a
Quote by one vision
Bureaucrats gonna crat.

Recognised by the Official EG/GG&A Who To Listen To List 2008
#21
The power-standby method will drain most of the current through the tubes but there is still residue voltage on the capacitors and if you are looking to bias or work inside the chassis, then yeah, bleed them off with a resistor until you measure 10V or so. Otherwise, using the power/standby method works ok for things like checking the tubes. at least in getting rid of the deadly voltages