So I own a epi hummingbird and until now its been perfect. So today i switch strings back to lights ( i had lights then i went to mediums then back to lights) so When i put my lights on today once all in tune i played some things. Now when i do a power chord on the first fret low e ( i think its call F) I can play it soft but if i pick hard at all it buzzes it didn't used to do this. Is it because i have light strings? But before i did and no problems. I made sure everything was good ( like that pin thing) anyone got any ideas on how to fix this.....thanks
how do you do that i can't find the hole where you screw it i look in side and i can't see it. nor is it on the head

and would i tighten or losen it
You can't raise your bridge! You can raise your saddle that sits in the bridge. The small white bar of plastic [or bone] that sits under the strings down near the string pins. You can loosen off the strings and slide the saddle out and put a thin narrow piece of cardboard underneath. Best though is to buy a new saddle and sand the bottom so it ends up a little higher than your old one.

The other problem that might be causing the buzz is that the slots in the head nut [the white thing at the other end near the tuning pegs] have worn down too much.
Try the saddle solution first as head nuts really need to be done professionally for a good job.
My first thought would be neck curvature. I'd think the following scenario would be plausible. At first the guitar was well set up for the lighter strings. It was a little bit off with the thick strings, but not so much that you noticed. Then over time the neck slackened a bit through variations in wood moisture, but still not so much that the strings hit the frets. Now you've switched to light strings and suddenly the problem became apparent. This is all very logical and quite common.
This hypothesis can easily be tested by putting a capo on the first fret and then push the E string against the 13th or 14th fret. A gap of about a few tenthts of a millimeter should remain between the string and the 7th fret. If there's no gap and the strings touch all the frets, my assumption is right. In that case a small twist to slacken the truss rod is all that is needed to make your guitar as new again.
Sounds good to me Marcel and players should not be fearful of adjusting their truss-rod in the right circumstances. No damage can be done unless they go crazy.
Last edited by Akabilk at Aug 4, 2008,
Where exsaxtly do you find the truss rod screw. does my guitar not have one. ( epi hummingbird btw) I have looked everywhere in the guitar, in the guitar, back area or neck, headstock no where to be found. And the saddle idea, how much carboard should i put under it like barely any?
ok i just found the truss rod location so that question is answerd. its at the end coverd by a pieace a metal. So if i was faceing the screw whole would i turn it left or right to get rid of this fret buzz?
yea i tested with capo on first fret held down the 14 and the string touches on the 7th fret. I also did the cardboard thing under the saddle it helped but not enough. So should i now adjust the truss rod i haven't turned it yet because i don't know what direction to turn it counter clockwise or clockwise?
To slacken it you should turn anti clockwise, like any other bold or nut.
Read this http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/trussrods.htm carefully.

Like Akabilk said here before, truss rod adjustment is really not the big deal many people say it is, but as a learned mechanic I know that handling bolds and nuts does have a few important twists to it that may not be apparent to the layman. When people mess things up here, it is usually due to lack of general mechanical skills. If you can't tell an allen from a phillis, let the petrolhead next door help you out with this, or else outsource the job altogether.
Thanks guys for all the help. I adjusted the truss rod and the buzz is gone. I also did the sattle thing. Now if i want to switch back to medium strings will i need to re adjust everything again?