#1
ok well I was planning on installing a floyd rose on an ibanez iceman (once I get it of course).

But when I posted on here everybody was saying that it was so difficult, one guy even said he wouldnt even do it for 400$.

So what makes routing a floyd rose so hard? I mean it cant be ALL that hard. just a ton of wires and drilling and stuff.

thanks in advance!

~GxT
#2
Quote by GuitaristTrue
ok well I was planning on installing a floyd rose on an ibanez iceman (once I get it of course).

But when I posted on here everybody was saying that it was so difficult, one guy even said he wouldnt even do it for 400$.

So what makes routing a floyd rose so hard? I mean it cant be ALL that hard. just a ton of wires and drilling and stuff.
thanks in advance!

~GxT


Easier said than done. Unless of course, you happen to be Awesome Like That (Patent Pending)
#3
hehe well my dad has some experience with routing, I could ask him to do it for me but if its really that hard I dont want to burden him with another job (he works his ass off)

He has a router, and he does so much stuff with wires and drilling its unbelievable.
#5
Wires? The grounding wire you need.... but what else?

And if you don't even have the guitar yet just buy a guitar with a floyd rose....
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#7
For $60 you are likely to get a piece of crap. Not definately, but likely. Where did you find it?
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#8
If your going FR get a good one not a cheap one. A cheap one wont last and may not stay in tune well. And the routing isnt a huge deal just one with not alot of room for error.
#9
To reinforce what these guys are telling you, don't buy a cheap Floyd Rose. If it costs less than $150, its going to play like it costs $10.

In my professional experience, I've had some pretty horrific experiences with cheap LFR's. The screw heads strip out because they're cheap, and the base plate many times is cast without any sort of reinforcing inserts... so the next thing to happen is the screws strip out of the holes in the base plate. This means you can't even play it once these things fail. It might be fine for a while, but a couple of intonation adjustments later... and its screwed.

Tuning stability also becomes an issue. A nice quality unit will hold a tune after you do a couple of wild whammy bar attacks. Tuning is #1 importance in sounding good. Do you really want a guitar that can't play the right notes for more than a few minutes?

If you're going to install a Floyd Rose bridge, you really need a locking nut, as well. You can sometimes get away with just locking tuners, but you end up snapping strings off at the nut because they bind instead of sliding through like they need to. Again, tuning stability gets thrown off for the same reason... you do one dive bomb, and you're all out of tune. You do this without locking tuners or a locking nut, and the strings will slip out of tune. The locking nut is IDEAL in this case.

Installation of a Floyd Rose bridge is not bad, assuming you can locate the center line of the body, locate the intonation point and properly measure the locations of the inserts for the studs to mount it. If you don't get all of this perfect, it will never play right. You will, of course, need to make a routing template to fit over the routing location so that you only route what needs to be cut. Otherwise, you end up with wild routing marks flying off into the top of your brand new guitar. (just corrected one like that for a customer - it looked like crap)

If you can find a diagram online that you can print out, then you can use that to locate the studs and make a routing template.

Installing the locking nut in place of a regular nut is likely beyond the capability of the average joe. I wouldn't even get into that.

My recommendation - buy a guitar with a Floyd Rose if thats what you really want. It will save you time and money in the end.
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#11
Some guitar bodies are too thin for a FR espciecially if you want it recessed! It's a BIG PAIN and routers are IMO THE HARDEST HAND TOOL to control accurately and get good lines. They skip, jump and do all sorts of crazy ****. Plus you could **** up your finish with the router. You'd also have to paint under it which is another step... plus routing the back.... starting to get the picture?

plus what they guy said above me is also true. Basically, you have to redesign the entire guitar! FR's are nice, but not that nice.

What he said is true with any brand of tremelo really minus maybe some fenders. Don't do it. PLease. You'll regret it and have an unusable guitar you spent a lot of money on.
Last edited by ESP_Shreder at Aug 6, 2008,
#12
Quote by ESP_Shreder

1, Some guitar bodies are too thin for a FR espciecially if you want it recessed!

2, plus what they guy said above me is also true. Basically, you have to redesign the entire guitar! FR's are nice, but not that nice.

3, What he said is true with any brand of tremelo really minus maybe some fenders. Don't do it. PLease. You'll regret it and have an unusable guitar you spent a lot of money on.

1, They're never too thin, as you can get varied size sustain blocks or grind them down.

2, You don't have to re-design the entire guitar at all.

3, Any brand Vibrato Unit minus Fenders? They're very tempermental unit's themselves. I never regretted putting Vibrato's on my guitars.

Edit:
https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=847931
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Last edited by Kingyem0c0re at Aug 6, 2008,
#13
No, its not a redesign, I think he was exaggerating a little just to make a point.

Getting the bridge placed straight, centered, and on the intonation point is crucial and is not simple. Thats what I was trying to get across.
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#14
Not a total redesign. But lets add the cost up. $150 for a new Tremolo. Minimum. $30 for a locking nut. New locking tuners would help a bunch. $75 for a decent set. ~$250 at minimum. This is assuming you have a router to do it, which you do. You also have to remove the TOM posts which will be a pain. Along with putting on the new nut which could end badly if your not savvy with power tools. If this is your first mod, I highly recommend against it. It's a recipe for disaster, but if you want to do it... IT is your guitar. You may end up pissing away $800 between the new axe and parts, but that's your call.

Also zeroyon is right. This is not a simple task and you do have to redesign a crucial part of the guitar. If not... It'll NEVER be in tune!
#15
you DON'T need locking tuners provided you have a locking nut. just some decent ones. some gotohs, maybe (A set of SG38's on Warmoth are $25 and change).
Also, the trem he's looking at is a GFS Floyd, which I've heard is somewhat decent.
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You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#17
I said you just need either one, but the locking nut is preferable.
All my photobucket pics are dead so no links to my guitar build threads.
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#18
Quote by zeroyon
I said you just need either one, but the locking nut is preferable.

I agree. The only thing is that the locking nut needs an extension on the f/b toward the tuners
Current Gear:
LTD MH-400 with Gotoh GE1996T (EMG 85/60)
PRS SE Custom 24 (Suhr SSH+/SSV)
Ibanez RG3120 Prestige (Dimarzio Titans)
Squier Vintage Modified 70s Jazz V
Audient iD22 interface
Peavey Revalver 4, UAD Friedman BE100/DS40
Adam S3A monitors
Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#19
Quote by oneblackened
I agree. The only thing is that the locking nut needs an extension on the f/b toward the tuners


agreed. So... did what's his face decide as we bicker about all this junk?