#1
ok so...once i sell my flextone, im probably going to buy a noise supressor for my 5150, given its unwanted fuzz at low volume levels, its only going to get louder as i turn the post up so..which to get?

boss ns-2 or the mxr smart gate?

i really liked the MXR because of the simple design and one knob, the boss looks good, but also confusing

also once i get it...i should put it in front of the amp correct?

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#2
the ISP Decimator is the one you want

many people on here agree its the greatest thing since sliced bread
#4
Quote by seljer
the ISP Decimator is the one you want

many people on here agree its the greatest thing since sliced bread


Have you ever tryed it?

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#5
Wait, you say you want to get rid of the Fizz?

A Noise gate can't do that, the fizz is a result of the Power Tubes not being worked enough (hence why it's only at Low Volumes) ;once you crank it and get the power tubes cooking the fizz will go away.
#6
ISP decimator causes tonesuck, like all other noise surpressing pedals. Its good, but there is a better alternative:

Take the amp to the shop you have bought it. Ask them to install an internal noisegate on the second channel.
Costs you about 40$ if they dont rip you off, and it doesnt suck tone.
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#7
Quote by LP_CL
ISP decimator causes tonesuck, like all other noise surpressing pedals. Its good, but there is a better alternative:

Take the amp to the shop you have bought it. Ask them to install an internal noisegate on the second channel.
Costs you about 40$ if they dont rip you off, and it doesnt suck tone.


LIES AND SCANDAL


...sorry
#8
Quote by LP_CL
ISP decimator causes tonesuck, like all other noise surpressing pedals. Its good, but there is a better alternative:

Take the amp to the shop you have bought it. Ask them to install an internal noisegate on the second channel.
Costs you about 40$ if they dont rip you off, and it doesnt suck tone.

You did it with your 6505?
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#9
yes
and i had the ISP befor. I can tell you, its cheaper and better to do it my way, lies or not.

Oh, and while youre at the store, these are other handy upgrades you should considder (with the price i paid for them)
- make your FX loop parallel if you are planning to use it (80$) => HUGE difference
- 60W/120W switch if you love the tone of saturated tubes. (60$)
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Last edited by LP_CL at Aug 6, 2008,
#10
Quote by thellamaking
Wait, you say you want to get rid of the Fizz?

A Noise gate can't do that, the fizz is a result of the Power Tubes not being worked enough (hence why it's only at Low Volumes) ;once you crank it and get the power tubes cooking the fizz will go away.



really?! well ive gotten the post to maybe 2.5 max, and that about busted my ears in my room so...i should just take it outside and crank it to get rid of the fizz?

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#11
Well obviously it's not going to be ideal to crank your amp, maybe invest in an Attenuator which means you can push your amp into 'virtual' cranked levels but you can bring the overall sound down with the attenuator. Which means you can push the power tubes but overall still at reasonable volumes.
#12
^And there you name one of the things that sucks your tone the most of all...
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#13
Attenuators can suck some tone yes, but how else is he going to get rid of fizz (Which no noise gate can do, noise gates stop feedback and buzz, not fizz) without cranking the hell out of his amp?
#14
well, in my band setting...cranking it shouldnt be an issue..with another guitar, drums, vocals...i should be able to at least hit 4 w/o it being mic/ed

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#15
If you get the 60/120W switch, you can put it at 5-6. A 5150/6505 starts saturating at 6-7.
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#16
Is the sound fizzy when you're with your Band? If it is you could try turning the Treble down. But 5150s are noisy beasts. So either buy a ISP Decimator or use Eric Johnson's internal Noise Gate.
#17
Crap, i now read that its about the combo you are talking, so forget about the 60/120W thing.

Have you changed the speakers yet? That should improve your tone alot. I like the 6505 with my Greenback Heritage speakers alot. But V30's sound great too.
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#18
Quote by LP_CL
yes
and i had the ISP befor. I can tell you, its cheaper and better to do it my way, lies or not.

Oh, and while youre at the store, these are other handy upgrades you should considder (with the price i paid for them)
- make your FX loop parallel if you are planning to use it (80$) => HUGE difference
- 60W/120W switch if you love the tone of saturated tubes. (60$)

Would recommend Jerry's (FJA) mods too? Or are they overkill? And is it dangerous to pull to the two outer tubes to have it running at 60W?

EDIT: why is the Parallel FX loop mod so important?
RIP Jasmine You.

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Quote by FaygoBro420
Yo wassup, I'm trying to expand my musical horizons if you know what I mean, so can anybody reccomend me some cool Juggalo jazz?
Last edited by aznrockerdude at Aug 6, 2008,
#19
Quote by LP_CL
Crap, i now read that its about the combo you are talking, so forget about the 60/120W thing.

Have you changed the speakers yet? That should improve your tone alot. I like the 6505 with my Greenback Heritage speakers alot. But V30's sound great too.



nah it still has sheffields in it...i would like V30s, but those are some expensive speakers....i might just save up and get a 2x12 cab with some v30s in it instead

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#20
With some amps you can pull half the power tubes and half the power output. I think you can with the 5150, but don't quote me.
#21
Quote by thellamaking
With some amps you can pull half the power tubes and half the power output. I think you can with the 5150, but don't quote me.


Pull the two outside tubes and change the your ohm setting to the next one down, so if you have an 8ohm cab set it to 4.
#22
Quote by LP_CL
If you get the 60/120W switch, you can put it at 5-6. A 5150/6505 starts saturating at 6-7.

6505 starts to saturate at 4-5...6-7 must be a muddy mess....also...some hotplates dont suck your tone if you dont attenuate overly. and 6505s lose punch at 60 watts
#23
and either way...it's really ****ing loud with both 60W and 120W if you want it to get full blown saturation
#24
Quote by kayman121
and either way...it's really ****ing loud with both 60W and 120W if you want it to get full blown saturation



i have a COMBO..not a head..so tube-pulling and 120w is out of the question

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#25
Quote by kayman121
6505 starts to saturate at 4-5...6-7 must be a muddy mess....also...some hotplates dont suck your tone if you dont attenuate overly. and 6505s lose punch at 60 watts

Its about 6-7 volume im talking, not gain, so how you mean 'muddy'?
Ive ran my 6505 through an oscillator, and the signal starts clipping at 6, not 4. So saturation is around 6-7 volume level.
And indeed, a little punch gets lost at 60W, but theres still more then enough, and if you prefer the sound of saturation, you dont give a feck about loosing 5% punch.
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#26
wouldnt matter...unless you cranked it loud anyways. only solution for lower level playing with cranked saturation is an attenuator. check out THD Hotplates
#27
Quote by kayman121
and either way...it's really ****ing loud with both 60W and 120W if you want it to get full blown saturation

True, but thats just the fun part about it
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