#1
So the top of my MG100 broke or something. I don't know what's wrong, but what I do know is that this is a great opportunity to buy a new amp
So, my question is: Would my MG100 cabinet work well with a new head?
And, come to think of it, what is it with the MG100 that so many hate? Is it the head or the cabinet, or both?
#2
I suggest getting a new amp.
Quote by Cathbard
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#3
yes, you can use just the cabinet with the speakers in it together with a head
#4
Quote by shadow__666
I suggest getting a new amp.

Yeah, in time, when the money comes around:P But a new, alright head for 600-800$ would work pretty good on the cabinet in the meantime, wouldn't it?
#5
it's both...mostly the head...and it's 'crushing distortion'

mg's are the lowest of the low as far as amps go, they're shoddily made, sound like sin and and and... well you get it.

Yes it will work with another head, just match the impedance and you good to go
This water's dark and coldGod's not where you hopedThis moment come and goneIt's time we all moved on
#6
Thanks While I'm at it, I'll just ask here if anyone can think of a good head for the MG100 cabinet, which will work for a new cabinet in the future?
#8
All kind of metal. Metallica, Children of bodom, Lamb of god, stuff like that.
#9
Peavey 6505

you could probably get it for about $600ish used and it'll do all the metal you throw at it and still have gain to spare

and just use your MG as a cabinet until you manage to get a better one
#11
No dont get a valveking head not if you want a good metal tone as thats what your into, 6505/5150 as suggested is cheap and has a lot of gain, aggressive and dark you'll love it. Just get a new cab as soon as possible because the mg cab will hold back your new head in terms of tone.
#12
the MG cab won't have much power tolerance or head-room, as it's designed with a SS head in mind, not a tube/valve head (120W total) - which means you should have a look for 50W heads in terms of power, otherwise the cab won;t be able to handle it at all. Grab the head first - a 6505 or 5150 sounds like a good idea (Although how can those be classed as cheap?) and then work on a replacement cab.
The rig:
Gibson SG faded special -> Marshall MG 50/100 (working on a valve amp)
Backup: Vintage AV1
Newcastle United
#13
Quote by Korzack
the MG cab won't have much power tolerance or head-room, as it's designed with a SS head in mind, not a tube/valve head (120W total) - which means you should have a look for 50W heads in terms of power, otherwise the cab won;t be able to handle it at all. Grab the head first - a 6505 or 5150 sounds like a good idea (Although how can those be classed as cheap?) and then work on a replacement cab.


the peaveys are cheap in the US (its like laneys over here)

100watts of output is 100watts of output, does't matter what its coming out of

you're probably not going to crank a tube amp like that anyway (bye bye hearing)
Last edited by seljer at Aug 7, 2008,
#14
I always thought with tubes their output was relative to twice or more the power of an SS amp (Otherwise, why would marshall make cabs that could hold 300W of grunt?) - But fair enough.
The rig:
Gibson SG faded special -> Marshall MG 50/100 (working on a valve amp)
Backup: Vintage AV1
Newcastle United
#15
Quote by Korzack
I always thought with tubes their output was relative to twice or more the power of an SS amp (Otherwise, why would marshall make cabs that could hold 300W of grunt?) - But fair enough.


its more of an audible difference, it sounds louder because some or other stuff with harmonics
#16
Quote by seljer
the peaveys are cheap in the US (its like laneys over here)

100watts of output is 100watts of output, does't matter what its coming out of

you're probably not going to crank a tube amp like that anyway (bye bye hearing)


Not quite true. Every manufacturer rates their products by different measures, my old laney GH50L was louder than my 5150 at 120w. There are a lot of factors that come into play with the real wattage rating, speaker efficiency is way more important than the amps actual output. That said the difference between say a GH50L and a GH100L is only actually 3db to the human ear, the extra power is just clean headroom.

But yeah, dont crank a full tube amp of 50 or 100 watts, if you dont blow your eardrums first the police will be round pretty sharpish.
#17
Just make sure you get a head that isn't too powerful for your cab, or else it's gonna blow. :p
hide your kids, hide your wife.

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#18
Quote by JaGi
Not quite true. Every manufacturer rates their products by different measures, my old laney GH50L was louder than my 5150 at 120w. There are a lot of factors that come into play with the real wattage rating, speaker efficiency is way more important than the amps actual output. That said the difference between say a GH50L and a GH100L is only actually 3db to the human ear, the extra power is just clean headroom.

But yeah, dont crank a full tube amp of 50 or 100 watts, if you dont blow your eardrums first the police will be round pretty sharpish.


into the same cabinet?

I was speaking just from an electrical standpoint

of course, different manufacturers measure their stuff different so...
#19
Quote by seljer
into the same cabinet?

I was speaking just from an electrical standpoint

of course, different manufacturers measure their stuff different so...



The speakers in the mg cab are rated at 30 watts each so he'll be ok aslong as he doesent get somethin like 5150 and max the volume, but because the speakers are cheap and have poor efficiency it wont sound as loud as it could do. Plus those cabs are made from particle board
#20
Quote by Korzack
I always thought with tubes their output was relative to twice or more the power of an SS amp (Otherwise, why would marshall make cabs that could hold 300W of grunt?) - But fair enough.



As I understand it tubes are louder not because of the wattage but because of the "depth" of the sound. When SS amps amplify sound they take "pieces" and amplify each one separately using complex circuits. When tube amps amplify they are taking the whole sound and running it through a physical amplifier (ie tubes). Think of it like the difference between optical and digital zoom on cameras. Optical zoom is when the lenses shift in order to actually magnify the image more, digital zoom is when the camera uses complex circuitry to magnify the image, without taking in more detail. That is why digital zoom causes pixelation when its blown up. So think of SS amps as "pixelated" at high volumes, which is why they are so hated.
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Unless its electronic drums.

BURN THE WITCH!!!!!
#21
Quote by tubetime86
As I understand it tubes are louder not because of the wattage but because of the "depth" of the sound. When SS amps amplify sound they take "pieces" and amplify each one separately using complex circuits. When tube amps amplify they are taking the whole sound and running it through a physical amplifier (ie tubes). Think of it like the difference between optical and digital zoom on cameras. Optical zoom is when the lenses shift in order to actually magnify the image more, digital zoom is when the camera uses complex circuitry to magnify the image, without taking in more detail. That is why digital zoom causes pixelation when its blown up. So think of SS amps as "pixelated" at high volumes, which is why they are so hated.


nope, your post was just fail
#23
First off, I said "As I understand it." I'm sure thats not a technical way of saying it, but for a non-electrical engineer I think thats a pretty good way to look it. Second a post that says "your post is fail" is fail. Tell me what I got wrong. I've only started to research this stuff in the past couple years and most of my sound experience comes from car audio, which never used tubes, so tubes are kind of new to me. If you corrected me, then told me my post was "fail," I'd accept it. Since you chose to say it's wrong and not explain why, however, I will call you an asshole.
Quote by Cathbard
Quote by Raijouta
Unless its electronic drums.

BURN THE WITCH!!!!!
#24
"During World War II, data gleaned from their intensive research on the detectors used in radar systems led Bell Telephone Laboratories to the invention of the transistor. This reliable little device gained quick support as the new component for amplification. The death of the vacuum tube seemed imminent as designers, scientists, and engineers reveled in the idea of replacing large, fragile glass tubes with these small, solid-state
devices.
However, there were (and still are) many serious listeners who realized that the sound produced by a "transistor" amplifier is significantly different from that produced by a tube amplifier with identical design specifications.
They considered the sound produced by these new solid-state devices to be hard, brittle, and lifeless. It was determined that solid-state devices produced a less musical set of harmonics than tubes. When pushed past their limits, they tend to mute the tone and emphasize the distortion.
Tubes, on the other hand, produce a more musical set of harmonics, the intensity of which can be controlled by the player. This characteristic adds warmth and definition to the sound which has become the hallmark of tube amplifiers. When tubes are driven into clipping, the harmonic overtones can be both sweet and pleasing or intense and penetrating, depending on the musician’s musical taste and playing technique."
#25
you might wanna swap the speakers to v30's though. i heard the stock speakers are crap(obviously )
#26
Quote by JaGi
No dont get a valveking head not if you want a good metal tone as thats what your into, 6505/5150 as suggested is cheap and has a lot of gain, aggressive and dark you'll love it. Just get a new cab as soon as possible because the mg cab will hold back your new head in terms of tone.

The Valveking is a good metal head...
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