#1
Do you guys keep the neck and the body completely flat with each other? or do you have he neck protrude from the body about 3/32... likew hen you bolt a neck on.. the fingerboard doesnt lay on the body of the guitar, its raised up a few 32s if an inch. how do you do this? just resaw it off on a bandsaw and sandit flat? or do you just glue the fingerboard right on to the body?
#2
I'm going to have my neck slightly proud of the body, and I'm going to use a router to do it, started at the end of the body and working my way towards the neck.

My bandsaw is too crappy for doing it with, so that option's out for me. You could probably do it a lot easier and quicker with your new one though
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#3
The only problem having it flush with the body is that you have to have around 1/4" of fingerboard and also the pickups might be too high for your liking.
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#4
Quote by loonyguitarist
I'm going to have my neck slightly proud of the body, and I'm going to use a router to do it, started at the end of the body and working my way towards the neck.

My bandsaw is too crappy for doing it with, so that option's out for me. You could probably do it a lot easier and quicker with your new one though


how do you do it with a router?
#5
Uh, well I haven't tried it yet, but I'm due to do it on my practice neck soon.

Uh well, I'm hoping to give this a go on my practice neck soon. Just lock the depth you want on your router and work your way along the body, up to the neck, routing across the body. This way you always have some raised wood to rest your router on nearer the neck.

The problem I foresee is when you get to the neck section, getting the edge of the raised section neat. I'm planning to do something like this (may not work too well, if anyone has any better ideas, please tell me):


Clamp something straight to the neck (green line) for the edge of the router base to follow, allowing you to route the end of the neck.

As for the sides, I plan on using an edge quide along the side of the body.

Does this make any sense at all/is it a silly idea?
Quote by Liberation
Every time I see your avatar I want to slit your neck with a butterknife. Goddamn Pingu.
#6
going about it in that way is fine except for when you run out of wood to keep the router level. If I were routing that way Id use fences to keep the router positioned at an even height and a stop on the fences so that I could not accidentally route into the fingerboard. when the routing was finished I would clean the fingerboard area up with a chisel.
#7
Yeah, I was considering making fences, but if you start at the far end of the body and work towards the neck, you shouldn't run out of wood to keep the router level.

I'm gonna give it a go and see how well it works. If it stuffs up, then this is only a practice neck, and I'll have learned a lesson from it. I'll then think up a way of making some fences and try that, and also practice with a chisel
Quote by Liberation
Every time I see your avatar I want to slit your neck with a butterknife. Goddamn Pingu.
#8
its quite easy to make fences actually. the router base is gonna hit the fretboard if you work your way to the neck which will make it stop. If you don't have the fretboard glued on it should work though.
#9
Ah, my fretboard isn't on as this is only a practice. When I do the real thing I guess I'd do this before putting the fretboard on. Either that or make some fences as you said.
Quote by Liberation
Every time I see your avatar I want to slit your neck with a butterknife. Goddamn Pingu.
#10
I have a question.
If you keep the neck level with the body and just put the finger board on top of it, is that going to be a big problem? I have no problem recessing the bridge if need be and the pickups shouldnt be a problem for me, but is there any problems that I am overlooking?
#11
The way I was shown in school was to have the neck stand up from the body starting at the fingerboard, making up the rest of the thickness needed.
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#13
Quote by zeroyon
The way I was shown in school was to have the neck stand up from the body starting at the fingerboard, making up the rest of the thickness needed.



ask them how to go about doing it. im stumped as for jigging up something.
#14
i kept mine even with the body, made the fretboard 7mm thick and bought metal pup rings (they're really thin and flat). i'm going to recess the bridge into the body and all shall be good
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#15
on the guitar I built, I just made the body and neck same height, and slapped the fretboard on there..

I used a floyd rose as a bridge and recessed it.
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#16
^ just slapped it on there? I hope you used glue... slapping doesn't hold anything very well...
Support your local luthier!

Timpson Guitars and TDM Pickups rock ;D

I make guitars and pickups. I also make sh*t that'll blow you the f*k up as well as things that will rebuild you - I have the technology
#17
i think i am going to put a 1/8'' bloodwood veneer in between the board and the neck... it shouldnt effect the truss rod or anything. i still gotta do some measuring though, calipering with the bridge set on the body and stuff.
#18
It shouldn't effect the truss rod any differently than your fingerboard would. It's just another piece of wood...

I wonder if it might be a good idea to use the same wood as the neck, so the wood expands and contracts at the same rate. You think there's any chance that piece of bloodwood under the fingerboard could throw off neck relief when the temp or humidity changes? Maybe I'm worrying to much.

I will ask in class tonight specifically about this topic. Maybe they will have some insight on a different method.
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#19
the bloodwood... maybe. the same piece of maple.. i think that would be cool, iwas just excited for the red accent strip =]

i can.... take what i cut off of the neck on the underside, surface it to 1/16'' or so and glue it right back on top... it would be the same triple laminated quarter sawn piece. it just might look kinda dull... i have some thinking to do on the subject. after doing some caliper work measuring the fingerboard at its lowest point, adding in fretwire thickness and the 2/32'' string height... my bridge will allow me to put the strings that low, but its stretching it big time, the saddles are about 1/32 from bottoming out.
#20
And then you wind up recessing the bridge a year from now or something. That would suck.
All my photobucket pics are dead so no links to my guitar build threads.
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#21
Quote by nuthinbuttrubl8
i kept mine even with the body, made the fretboard 7mm thick and bought metal pup rings (they're really thin and flat). i'm going to recess the bridge into the body and all shall be good


Amen to that. I did mine flat. I think it's much easier and better IMO.
#22
Quote by LP Addict
i think i am going to put a 1/8'' bloodwood veneer in between the board and the neck... it shouldnt effect the truss rod or anything. i still gotta do some measuring though, calipering with the bridge set on the body and stuff.

You'd have to mind you don't go into the truss rod cavity when carving the neck though, since it'll be 1/8" more towards the back of the neck.
Quote by Liberation
Every time I see your avatar I want to slit your neck with a butterknife. Goddamn Pingu.
#23
I really don't understand why no one can solve this. The solution is simple. cut however much wood you want to be showing off of the portion of the neck that will be in the body. It would take 2 seconds on a bandsaw and about 10 seconds with a chisel. If your worried about losing thickness on the body (which is negligible in my mind) you can glue wood onto the back of the neck that will be on the body, that way you don't have any odd looking lines or grain changes in your neck that may be noticeable.