#1
Hey everyone.

I was removing a couple of frets that I'd just put into my bass build, and it took a sizeable chunk out of the fingerboard.



As I'm sure you can imagine, I'm a tad annoyed.

So I've come to ask whether it would be easier to fill it with epoxy/glue&sawdust, recamber the board and continue fretting,

or

sand down till it's gone, reslot the fretboard (not sure how I'd do that at the moment) then refret.

Here's some pics of the damage.









Cheers for any help you can give me!
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#3
Quote by jscustomguitars
Take the fingerboard off and glue a new one on.


That's the best route? Damn. Haven't got another fingerboard on me at the moment.

Oh well. If anyone else has any ideas, that would be great.
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#4
If you were to sand the fretboard down and then re-fret it, it might **** with your action. Since the nut will always be at the same height. You need to use your best judgement and figure out how far down you need to sand and decide wheter that is going to increase your action to the point where the saddles cannot fix it.

If you oversand or it doesnt work, replacing the fretboard is really the only option. It isn't hard, it just takes time. Fretboards are glued with "hide glue", which is heat activated and will peel off if removed carefully. Stew-mac will probably have the fretboard you need for about $50-ish i think.
#6
Quote by dogismycopilot
If you were to sand the fretboard down and then re-fret it, it might **** with your action. Since the nut will always be at the same height. You need to use your best judgement and figure out how far down you need to sand and decide wheter that is going to increase your action to the point where the saddles cannot fix it.

If you oversand or it doesnt work, replacing the fretboard is really the only option. It isn't hard, it just takes time. Fretboards are glued with "hide glue", which is heat activated and will peel off if removed carefully. Stew-mac will probably have the fretboard you need for about $50-ish i think.


Good point about the nut - hadn't considered that. I am using a Just-A-Nut from Warwick though.

And I attached the fretboard using Titebond. I assume that's this "hide glue" you're talking about, as I'm British. I can get a new fretboard, I just don't happen to have a bandsaw down in this house. I got all the sawing out of the way in Scotland, where my dad has a workshop. Down here, I'm stuck with just finishing supplies.
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#7
hide glue is something else entirely. it's made from animal skin, and must be melted to work.
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#8
Quote by oneblackened
hide glue is something else entirely. it's made from animal skin, and must be melted to work.


Oh right. So I guess I'll have to use steam to get it out then, right?

Edit: I'll just add that the top of the fretboard is 10mm high (from the body of the bass) and the fretboard is about 5mm think.
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Last edited by Nutter_101 at Aug 27, 2008,
#9
Man, I don't mean to be a bastard, but should you not have stopped when you got one chip? .. instead of continuing to chip 3 frets +

Honestly, I agree with JS. Wait until you have enough money to buy a new board, then glue that one and continue from there. You could bodge the current board with epoxy, but you won't be proud with the end result (I assume). Also, I think that up to £30 for a new slotted, radiused ebony board is reasonable, considering how much you're saving on labour by not getting someone else to do the work.

Edit: Oh, and that fingerboard doesn't look like it's been sanded. Was it pre-radiused? If so, you still need to sand it with a few high grit papers - perhaps 230-1200 - to give it a super-smooth finish. You shouldn't be able to feel the grain, really.
#10
Quote by -MintSauce-
Man, I don't mean to be a bastard, but should you not have stopped when you got one chip? .. instead of continuing to chip 3 frets +

Honestly, I agree with JS. Wait until you have enough money to buy a new board, then glue that one and continue from there. You could bodge the current board with epoxy, but you won't be proud with the end result (I assume). Also, I think that up to £30 for a new slotted, radiused ebony board is reasonable, considering how much you're saving on labour by not getting someone else to do the work.

Edit: Oh, and that fingerboard doesn't look like it's been sanded. Was it pre-radiused? If so, you still need to sand it with a few high grit papers - perhaps 230-1200 - to give it a super-smooth finish. You shouldn't be able to feel the grain, really.


From the angle I was at, I only saw that big one. To be honest, I had a suspicion it was in trouble at that point. Okay, I'll order another one.

Cheers for the help guys.

I'll post pics when it's finished.

Quote by -MintSauce-
Edit: Oh, and that fingerboard doesn't look like it's been sanded. Was it pre-radiused? If so, you still need to sand it with a few high grit papers - perhaps 230-1200 - to give it a super-smooth finish. You shouldn't be able to feel the grain, really.


Yeah, I forgot about that - that's why I was taking the frets out . Oh well, live and learn. It wasn't pre-radiused - I radiused it with a 20" block.
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Last edited by Nutter_101 at Aug 27, 2008,
#11
Titebond is a wood glue. No way in getting that off dude. You should try to sand down the fretboard and do it that way, or start all over again.

BTW, if you havent already attached the nut, then you dont have a lot to worry about i think. Just sand it down a few milimeters and you should be hunky dorey.
#12
Quote by dogismycopilot
Titebond is a wood glue. No way in getting that off dude. You should try to sand down the fretboard and do it that way, or start all over again.

BTW, if you havent already attached the nut, then you dont have a lot to worry about i think. Just sand it down a few milimeters and you should be hunky dorey.


Unless I'm very much mistaken, it's a water-soluble wood glue, which is why steaming it helps loosen the glue.

I haven't attached the nut yet, however, the minimum height of the bridge is 10.5 mm.

I obviously don't want the action too high. Currently, the fretboard height from the body is almost exactly 10mm. After sanding it down, I'm worried that it will be too low, messing up the action.
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#14
Quote by -MintSauce-
Hah, I only thought to myself yesterday "crap, I need to sand the actual fingerboard to 1200 grit", so I've been doing it with the actual fret wires in. It's a BITCH.


Would have been easier than putting a new board in though



They're beautiful gold frets too, yum
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#15
Quote by Nutter_101
Unless I'm very much mistaken, it's a water-soluble wood glue, which is why steaming it helps loosen the glue.

I haven't attached the nut yet, however, the minimum height of the bridge is 10.5 mm.

I obviously don't want the action too high. Currently, the fretboard height from the body is almost exactly 10mm. After sanding it down, I'm worried that it will be too low, messing up the action.

Uhh kinda. When i glue my **** together, i keep a sponge around to wipe off the access titebond, because water breaks it up and allows me to wipe it off. When it dries however, you cannot simply re-heat it with steam. Although i havent tried it, it would make the wood soft and possibly warp it, causeing the whole neck to be ****ed, not just the fretboard.
#16
Somebody got a bit excited with the fret pullers... Anyway... Your original thought of epoxy was a good one. Lots of luthiers fix this kinda thing with epoxy or superglue. Replacing the fretboard is a bit extream and should only be done as a last resort.
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#17
^ i agree with corduroy. My suggestion would be to take some epoxy and mix it with a little dust from the board and just dab some around the torn area... or if you have the old chips, reglue them with glue and polish it all out then wipe the board down with a dark stain to fill in any oopsies.
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#20
^ only issue with that is keeping the cutter straight when you do the binding.
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#21
Quote by nuthinbuttrubl8
^ only issue with that is keeping the cutter straight when you do the binding.


You could clamp a radius block to the top, then run the router along it with a guided cutter... or something.
#22
^ hmmm... sounds doable... no guarantees in life but it might work...
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#24
^ dust and epoxy with a dark stain on the board will cover it to the naked eye. take a real close look at the inlay work that comes on "professional" guitars... you'll notice a lot more as you gander at those puppies

send the neck to me i'll repair it for $50

Edit: nevermind... you're from across the pond... see if JS will fix it for ya
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#25
I think I'm going to replace the fretboard. There's no chance of finding the chunks now.

Also, as far as getting a new fretboard, does anyone know where I can get a 20" pre-radiused ebony board for a Bass guitar?

I emailed david dyke (where I got my first board) and they don't offer radiused bass fingerboards.

Any ideas?
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#26
just epoxy them... you're opening a massive can of worms trying to remove a fretboard...
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