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#1
Warning:The Floyd Rose is famous for its range, but be careful when buying one, they are a lot of work to restring and setup and can get very frustrating. I do not recommend buying a cheap FR, they don't keep tune and fall to bits.
I am not responsible for anyone ruining their guitar, this is here for your benifit

For links to many other great threads, check out the GB&C Central Hub.

INSTALLATION

Templates
You can simply buy these from stew mac or make your own
You will need:
Bandsaw, router
Ball bearing router bit
Plywood or something similar
These, Measurements in mm, inches available
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
Pic 4

1: Draw up pics 1 & 3 on the plywood.
2: Cut out the drawings on the Plywood with a Bandsaw, Jigsaw, Handsaw or router

Routing for the nut
1: Using the jig shown on this website route for the nut.
If you don't have enough room on the end of your fretboard you can use a wood filler or a bit of wood and make a small platform on the headstock. Dont cover up the truss rod

Routing the body
1: Fill in the holes from your old bridge using wood filler or dowels
2: Put your neck on for a mockup and measure from the nut to the 12th fret. double that measurement and that is your scale length and where the strings should meet the saddles
3: Clamp your body down to something flat and secure. Make sure the clamps won't get in the way of the router
4: Using clamps or double sided tape, put the template onto the body in the right place
5: Using the router with a ball bearing bit, route out the cavities to the right depth shown in pic 2
6: Now that you have routed the body put your floyd in as a mockup and measure where the holes will be for the bushings. (LFR sometimes differ)
7: Using a drill press and a slightly smaller drill bit than the bushings drill the holes for the bushings
8: Hammer the bushings in using a hammer and a piece of wood. (Use glue if you want to)

Routing on a carved top
1: Make the template on some sort of wood about 1/2" or so thick. Make sure you put the cutout right in the middle of the board. The board must be wide enough to reach over the whole body
2: Make sides the same height as your guitar
3: Nail the sides to the top
You should have something that kinda looks like a table
(like this) ___________
..............|...................| (excuse the dots)
4: Put it over the body and route out the cavity. This way you are routing on a flat surface

Routing for a Seven String Floyd:
Use the above tutorials only using these measurements...
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
Pic 4

BASIC SETUP
Order of setup:
Restringing and tuning
Action
Intonation



INTONATION
You need to get the intonation right or else your guitar will play out of tune.
If your guitar is 25" scale the distance between the nut and the 12th fret must be 12 1/2" and the same distance from the 12th fret to where the string meets the saddles on the bridge.
So you must adjust each saddle forwards or backwards so that each string is the right scale.
To do this you must:
1: Measure the distance between the nut and the 12th fret and double to find the scale length.
2: Loosen the saddles one at a time and move either forwards or backwards so that each saddle is the correct scale length and tighten again and tune up your guitar.
3. Now with a tuner play an open string, then the 12th fret of that string. If the 12th fret is sharp move the saddle back, if its flat move it forward.

SETTING ACTION
To make the action higher, loosen/ make the studs higher.
To make the action lower, tighten the trem posts. If its as low as it can go at the bridge but its still high you can either lower the nut or give the neck a neck angle by adding shims.

RESTRINGING
If your completely restringing do it one string at a time
Single Locking
1: Unclamp the nut
2: Feed the string through the saddle
3: Pull the string up the neck (not to tight) and then over the nut, under the string retainer and into the tuner. Tune up your guitar tightening or loosening the claw so that the bridge is floating level with the guitar.
5: Clamp the nut.
6: Fine tune your guitar using the fine tuners on the bridge

Stringing Double Locking Floyd
1: Unclamp the nut
2: Snip the ball ends off your strings and clamp them in the saddle
3: Pull the string up the neck (not to tight) and then over the nut, under the string retainer and into the tuner. Tune up your guitar tightening or loosening the claw so that the bridge is floating level with the guitar
4: Clamp the nut and fine tune using the fine tuners at the bridge

videos for the Double locking floyd rose:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwNVjNohOt4
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=IePfzUzlDng&feature=related

FR RANGE


SINGLE LOCKING AND DOUBLE LOCKING DIFFERENCES

Single locking trems use plain old strings, sliding in from the rear, over the saddle and then through the locking nut to the tuner. This is a good choice for someone that doesnt pull hard or divebomb alot. The double locking trem is a bit more complicated to string up but certainly more stable. The string is more stable for harder trem use.

Different Types of FRs
Original Floyd Rose
Floyd Rose II
Floyd Rose Pro
Floyd Rose 7 String
Floyd Rose Speedloader Tremolo
Floyd Rose Speedloader fixed bridge
Floyd Rose Single Locking
First Floyd Rose made
Les Paul Floyd Rose
Ibanez Edge
Ibanez Edge III
Ibanez Fixed Edge
Ibanez Low Pro Edge
Ibanez Double Edge
Ibanez Edge Zero
Ibanez Edge Pro
Licensed Schaller Floyd Rose
Licensed Gotoh Floyd Rose
Licensed Guitar Fetish Fast Loader Floyd Rose
Licensed Mighty mite x3
Standard Licensed Double Locking Floyd Rose
Standard Licensed Single Locking Floyd Rose
Kahler Spyder

Buying a FR
I can not stress this enough, unless you have loads of patience and money to buy new strings, DON'T buy a cheap floyd rose. They are made of cheap, soft metals which allow strings to make grooves and sharp edges in them leading to string breakage. With a cheap FR it will affect your tone, sustain, won't keep in tune and will not be able to set up very well. I suggest that you bite the bullet and spend the extra money for an Oringinal, Schaller, Gotoh or some sort of floyd similar in quality, it will be good in the long run

Helpful Websites
http://www.georgemangos.com/floyd/index.htm
http://www.floydrose.com/video.html
http://www.floydrose.com/originaltremolo.html
http://www.glowingtubes.com/p/FloydTuning.htm##disc
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Floyd_Rose
Last edited by guitarcam123 at Feb 9, 2009,
#2
Well done. This should be combined with the already existing FR Setup sticky here and made into one ultimate FR thread.

Also, in your diagrams it might be good to label what form of measurements your using.
For those who care.
Current Gear
Cort Zenox Z42
Flextone II
Charvel USA So-Cal
Farida M2 Parlour Acoustic
Admira Hand-built Spanish Acoustic
Blackstar HT-5H
Line 6 M13
Last edited by .:Darkness:. at Oct 2, 2008,
#4
yeah there is only one inch measurement given! Really nice thread man. ill have to think on it for my jackson! appreciate it!
#5
Quote by bellerophon
Nice guide but glancing through it thought you might want to change this:


As they seem to be in mm. Either that or you have really big guitars


haha my bad!
#7
Great guide.
I don't remember where I was,
When I realized life was a game.
The more seriously I took things,
The harder the rules became.
#8
can you post some pics or info on blocking a trem??

(making it act as a fixed bridge? (no movement))
#9
Quote by WH15P3R
Great guide.

+1, I vote for sticky.
Current Gear:
LTD MH-400
PRS SE Custom 24 (Suhr SSH+/SSV)
ESP Horizon NT-7 (SD Full Shreds)
UA Apollo Twin Duo
Peavey Revalver 4, UAD Friedman BE100/DS40
Focal Alpha 65 monitors
Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#10
Would be cool if we could get a list of manufacturers that don't require routing to swap out for an OFR. Like I have heard that some LTD's can swap out their licensed floyd roses for an original without requiring routing. Maybe somone can confirm this? Get a list started. I think that would eliminate a lot of the questions.
#11
Excellent thread. +489179845
It includes just about everything you need to know, very extensive and detailed. Too many times have I seen posts inquiring about floyds from those who know next to nothing about them.

I must say though, that I strongly disagree with the "Action Setup" portion. When one changes action, they usually adjust the height of the Trem Posts, not the spring tension. The idea is that you keep the bridge at "ground level" as displayed in "I." while effecting the actual height of the bridge. Loosening the screw's thereby allowing it to tilt forward will greatly effect intonation, more noticeably on the higher frets. On the flip side, tightening the screw's forcing the bridge to tilt back will make for noticeable fret buzz. Not only would either extreme greatly effect the consistency of playability, but it will limit your pull-up and dive travel accordingly. If your bridge tilts too far forward, your dive travel will be more limited, if it tilts back to much, your pull-up travel will be limited.
#12
sorry, i wasn't clear enough...
I meant the trem posts, not the screws.. I had a mental blank when i was writing that bit and just called them screws.. i'll fix that
#15
Quote by guitarcam123
there is a link to a pic similar to that in the original post (just lettin you know)
I know ... I posted it for the benefit of those who refuse to read and/or have the attention span of a goldfish and/or just like pictures.

#16
feel free to ask any questions

Been searching the Forum lately, looks like people aren't reading this.
If you see a question about floyd roses, direct the TS here.
Last edited by guitarcam123 at Oct 13, 2008,
#17
Do you know the string spreads for the Floyd 7-String DL Trem?
Standard Strat
Jackson WRMG
Parker DF724

Axe-Fx Standard
Carvin DCM1000L

Mesa Trad. Slant Recto 4x12 (UK V30s)
Custom Horiz. 2x12 (Commonwealth 12s)
#18
Quote by Karlboy
Do you know the string spreads for the Floyd 7-String DL Trem?

It depends where you measure it from and how you place the springs, do you mean from the block or the claw?
If your putting a seven string floyd in a normal floyd route it should fit as the bottom routes for both the seven string and six string are the same measurements.

Good Luck!
#20
Double locking. See the hex nuts behind the saddle? Those are the bridge locks.
Current Gear:
LTD MH-400
PRS SE Custom 24 (Suhr SSH+/SSV)
ESP Horizon NT-7 (SD Full Shreds)
UA Apollo Twin Duo
Peavey Revalver 4, UAD Friedman BE100/DS40
Focal Alpha 65 monitors
Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#22
Current Gear:
LTD MH-400
PRS SE Custom 24 (Suhr SSH+/SSV)
ESP Horizon NT-7 (SD Full Shreds)
UA Apollo Twin Duo
Peavey Revalver 4, UAD Friedman BE100/DS40
Focal Alpha 65 monitors
Quote by Anonden
You CAN play anything with anything....but some guitars sound right for some things, and not for others. Single coils sound retarded for metal, though those who are apeshit about harpsichord probably beg to differ.
#24
Quote by Invader Jim
I'm a noob at FR's so can someone tell me if this is double locking or single locking?



Thats a lo-pro design, its double locking.


I have to ask, everyone says that they use their bridges radically all they want and they never go out of tune. I have an Edge Pro on my RG1570, and its better than the other floyd's ive used but i still have problems with strings going slightly out of tune when i use it.

Whats the trick here? I've set up 3 different kinds of floyd rose and i know how to set them up perfectly now, but i still never seem to get the tuning to stay perfect. Am i just being too picky?
#25
^ i'm not to sure
Do you stretch your strings when you replace them? When you lock the nut down do you notice the strings go out of tune a bit? If so that is normal and you will need to either tune the strings a bit # before you put the nut on or use the fine tuners on the bridge to tune them perfect....
Good Luck..
#26
Haha, im not stupid I know how to string and tune a guitar properly

Just when i use my floyd it doesnt go fully back to its zero point i think. But i've blocked off my bridge so its dive-only because i like to change tuning's alot. But this is just for future reference. Its normally the g-string (:p
#28
Its really not major, and i've only had it since april and honestly never used it for massive dives or pulls or anything. It really only did it sometimes, so its nothing im worried about, it works great for me =P

And the tuning difference isnt radical, i can only really hear it if i listen for it
#30
Ok, I just got that guitar today and finally strung it up. I set it up (or tried to) to float, but the tuning's about as stable as a crack head in withdrawl.

After 2 hours of figuring the thing out and retuning it, I finally get to lock the nut and retune--again--with the fine tuners and if I so much as bump it and it goes 'up' (back), it'll yank the guitar right out of tune, too much for the fine tuners to fix. It's not nearly that bad when diving, however.

Any ideas how to fix it? It's an old Jackson LFR, in case you forgot.

Sorry, but I'm a noob at FR bridges. This one's my first.
#31
Did you put a block underneath the bridge between the trem block and the body, like in post #13 or the first pic in restringing up the top?
#32
Sounds like your knife edges are really worn out. It would make sense if its a LFR lo pro.

Does it have replaceable knife edges?
#34
I didn't know they made replacements. I highly doubt it does.

Anyway, I tried floating it again. I think it was just because the neck had been stringless during shipping. It's pretty good now.

Man, intoning/setting up these things is a bitch isn't it? I gotta do some more adjustments...
#35
Some Ibanez model bridges have replaceable knife edges, so it was a possibility a lo-pro inspired bridge could have had replaceable ones.

Glad youve got it under control though, floyds are fun to play with

Yeah, it'll take a fair while to set up, starts to really get tedious sometimes.
#36
yeah i got so pissed off with mine last night, I did a divebomb and the high E strings flew out of the clamps. So i took the nut off, took me about half an hour trying to find out which way to wind the tuner to make the string longer so i could put it back into the saddle. Got it in finally, Started tuning again, almost got it in tune and the it came out again, started unwinding the tuner and the string snapped where it goes into the tuner.
I have now decided I am only using single locking floyds
#37
Hmm, sounds like either your string was getting worn down or your high E string clamp has a groove in it. I had that happen to me on my old lo-pro bridge, it annoyed the crap outta me.
#38
Are lo-pro LFRs really THAT bad? I finally get a floyd-equipped guitar, and you're all saying the floyd is crap?

Once I got it all set up, the thing wouldn't de-tune for anything. I'm used to strat trems, so yeah. It was an awesome experience to be able to flap the strings around and still go back in tune . I just intoned it today and have been wanking on it all day and now I gota intone it again or something... Hopefully I just need to unlock the nut and re-tune...
#39
Dark_Merlin: Yeah, I think the string just got tired of be wound and unwound and decided to snap. That could also be a suggestion about the clamp.

Jim: Floyds are good, but most licensed ones are $hit hole. Anyway, the floyd that my string broke on was a $30 one so it was like the cheapest one out there, which I plan on replacing when I get money...
Reading your post again, it looks like you think that Merlins reply was to you? Am i right? Cause if thats true he was replying to me about my string snapping... Hope you haven't already started intonating
#40
Yeah, I know. I was just stating how much I loved the Floyd compared to a generic strat trem. I won't start intonating until tomorrow. It's after 11pm here.

I ****ing hate the complexity of these...
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