#1
Over the past few months I've been looking at my guitar rack and realizing that there are just some guitars that I've built that don't get played. The reason for this a poor setup or a poor fret job due to inexperience(my first two fretjobs were terrible after that they got pretty good.) So in this thread I will go through all of my failed guitars one by one and start fixing them up and making them playable. I'll start with a guitar that I would love to be able to play but just cant because of all of the problems it has.

Guitar 1: Green-Yellow Carved Top Strat-Whats wrong with it? Terrible fret work which led to insanely high action, terrible finish caused by my lack of experience with finishes at the time.



that is its current state, The picture was taken right after finishing so it looked good but the finish dulled and it got ugly.

What it will look like when complete





no binding though just natural binding color wont be yellow, I want something more exciting.
#2
shell binding? :P

i thinks it good of you to do these threads takes alot to admit your mistake let alone post them and correct them XD

i hope this turns out awesome (like it will do)
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#3
I think I'm just gonna paint some binding on the guitar, it'll look better than no binding at all, and i don't really like natural binding.
#4
you're gonna turn it into a righty? sweet!

i love that trans green burst though! shame that it looks better than it plays.

soon to be fixed, i assume!
------

Shwiggity.
#5
Im a bit worried about doing my first fret job on my first guitar, it'll probably ruin it lol I need to find a bunch of old $hitty guitars to try it on first




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#6
making it lefty wasn't a mistake

fretting isn't that hard once you get used to it. If i would've read up on it more i wouldn't have screwed up my first two.

I think you'll like the new top that i just dyed and bursted a few minutes ago. Ill get pics up in a bit.
#9
Quote by a_man
What was wrong with the finish in the first place?


He probably used a regular spray can or 1 Part lacquer, let it dry for a day or two, then polished it.

That type of lacquer takes around 6 weeks to fully harden, so after its been polished, it continues to sink and harden, so dulling the finish.

A careful P2000 wet cut will probably be all it needs followed by same Faracla G3 buffing compound on a mop, wax it, done.
#11
The finished dulled because it was a waterbased poly (sprayed through an hvlp gun actually..), i haven't had much luck with the poly keeping its shine. Now i use car lacquer, its much better.

pictures



#12
Ah I see. That is going to look great with the hardware. Perhaps you could replace the chrome with gold? That would be the icing on the cake.
#13
How long are you leaving the lacquer to harden before you buff it then?

Have you thought about a 2K clear?

What size spray pattern and how far away from the body is the gun when you spray?
#15
i'm guessing you still have to buff that out?

otherwise, it looks awesome!


(but it's still a lefty... )
------

Shwiggity.
#16
Quote by carousel182
2 weeks

no

I use a verticle spray and hold the gun about 8-12 inches from the body.


You may find that you would get better results if you allow 4-6 weeks curing time before you cut and buff it. I know, ages isn't it?! That is why I use 2K Polyurethane Enamel clear. Dries like rock in 24 hours at 70-80F and can be cut and buffed.

You may find, that you can reduce some of the Orange peel and get a better overall result, if you adjust your spray gun.

Firstly, you only need a 0-8.1.2mm tip.

Secondly, adjust your gun, so that you get a good, 4 inch wide pattern, 4 inches from the tip and then keep 4 inches away from the body when you spray it. Obviously, adjust your material delivery knob, so it isn't too wet.

Also, use a 50% overlap when you spray. IE. Spray, then drop down 2 inches and spray again, I can explain this if you want, but take my word for it, if you do it right, it works.

If your too far away from the body (8-12 inches is too far), firstly, you will get an inaccurate placement of material, also the material will have started to dry, before it has got to the body, which causes orange peel/rough finish and can cause adhesion problems.

This is not my idea, but I use it because the guy who came up with it, is slightly good at what he does and I have adopted it for that reason
Last edited by Skeet UK at Oct 5, 2008,
#17
ah k thanks for the tips, Finishing isn't one of my strengths in building lol

yea i still have to buff it out lol, i just sprayed today.. i also have to run out and get some more primer clear and black before i can do anything (I've only sprayed the top so far.)
#18
Quote by carousel182
ah k thanks for the tips, Finishing isn't one of my strengths in building lol

yea i still have to buff it out lol, i just sprayed today.. i also have to run out and get some more primer clear and black before i can do anything (I've only sprayed the top so far.)


The actual guitars look great though. I cant really critique the finish from those photos, other than the orange peel in the last ones, but those tips I gave you, are from my experience with painting small items (ie, not cars).

If you drop me a PM I am happy to link you to an excellent book that will help you achieve phenomenal finishes.
#19
^ k will do, I usually don't get that much orange peel (although i always do get SOME) my sprayer wasn't really working too good, i think i need to replace the tip.
#20
Quote by carousel182
^ k will do, I usually don't get that much orange peel (although i always do get SOME) my sprayer wasn't really working too good, i think i need to replace the tip.


Make sure you have a stainless needle/tip etc, for water based paints, otherwise they corrode.

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