#1
so i just got a new Crate v100h 100 watt tube head on wednesday.
so far the amp was great
however friday night i was showing my buddy a riff i wrote,
when every time i strummed a chord, the volume dimmed down
i looked at the amp and one of the tubes was BRIGHT orange and purple compared to the other tubes (dimly lit as they had been).

i got worried so i put it on standby and unplugged my guitar, then it made a loud pop, so i turned the power off and stepped away

i waited about 5 minutes and tried turning it on again
it was on for about 15 seconds and then it made another pop my friend said he saw a spark shoot off.
at that point i shut it off for good

the next day i tried turning it on again
i hear no sound coming from it now
from either of the inputs

does anybody know what this is
ive since contacted the seller who gave me a 45 day gaurantee so im in the process of switching it, but im worried it will happen again

some other info
i was running at only 50 watts, volume at 1, 4 ohm on a 4ohm 300watt cab
overall ive played on this amp for about 5 or 6 hours
does anyone else have this amp
has anybody had a similar problem
Glimsom wrote:
I fell several hundred feet, and hit the ground, and then Batman appeared. He said "You gotta press the Y Button to fly." Then I woke up.
#3
Wattage doesn't need to match up... As long as the cab's wattage rating is equal to or greater than the head's rating, you're fine.
It's ohm that need to match up.

The volume fluctuations sound like a power tube problem. Odd, considering it's new - UNLESS it was a floor model. Those would've had several, several hours on them. Don't let it discourage you.
#4
Quote by forsaknazrael
The volume fluctuations sound like a power tube problem. Odd, considering it's new - UNLESS it was a floor model. Those would've had several, several hours on them. Don't let it discourage you.

like i said
one of the el34 tubes was bright orange/purple
im pretty sure that was part of the problem

but since im a toob noob
im just gonna exchange it for now
although i figure i should now what the problem is in case it happens again

also its not a floor model

i got it online new
so im pretty sure on that
Glimsom wrote:
I fell several hundred feet, and hit the ground, and then Batman appeared. He said "You gotta press the Y Button to fly." Then I woke up.
#6
Quote by sesstreets
Could have just been a bad tube. Happens.

yeah
im looking into these "ruby tubes" as we speak

seeing if they have had history of troubles
Glimsom wrote:
I fell several hundred feet, and hit the ground, and then Batman appeared. He said "You gotta press the Y Button to fly." Then I woke up.
#7
Quote by roarinflames
like i said
one of the el34 tubes was bright orange/purple
im pretty sure that was part of the problem

but since im a toob noob
im just gonna exchange it for now
although i figure i should now what the problem is in case it happens again

also its not a floor model

i got it online new
so im pretty sure on that

I didn't comment on the color/brightness because that is not an accurate indication of tube life/health. Mine barely glow, but the amp works great.
#8
Try to grab some Tung Sol or JJ EL34's and switch them out. Ruby's are overpriced (mainly because I read that they're relabled.)

You could have blown a fuse, and if the v100 is like the v33, you have to pull the chassis to replace the fuses.

Tube swap, fuse swap, and you should be good to go.

You weren't using an instrument cable to run the head into the cab, were you?
#9
Quote by imgooley
Try to grab some Tung Sol or JJ EL34's and switch them out. Ruby's are overpriced (mainly because I read that they're relabled.)

You could have blown a fuse, and if the v100 is like the v33, you have to pull the chassis to replace the fuses.

Tube swap, fuse swap, and you should be good to go.

You weren't using an instrument cable to run the head into the cab, were you?

after reading a couple of other threads, im thinking of switching them out for jj 6l6's

the v33 is a combo i thought, mine is just a head with access
Edit:mine has a grill in the back that can be easily removed

and hell no
im not that stupid, im using a monster amplifier cable
Glimsom wrote:
I fell several hundred feet, and hit the ground, and then Batman appeared. He said "You gotta press the Y Button to fly." Then I woke up.
Last edited by roarinflames at Oct 6, 2008,
#10
Quote by roarinflames
after reading a couple of other threads, im thinking of switching them out for jj 6l6's

the v33 is a combo i thought, mine is just a head with access

and hell no
im not that stupid, im using a monster amplifier cable

I have a V33H (H stands for head), and you have to pull the chassis to get to the fuses.

I don't know if you can swap 6L6's in an EL34 amp, and to be honest, I don't know why you'd want to.
#11
it seems they are built the same way
so tough shit for me i guess

however
as far as the el34/6l6 thing
i play mostly metal and from what i understand, the 6l6 is better for that type of sound
Glimsom wrote:
I fell several hundred feet, and hit the ground, and then Batman appeared. He said "You gotta press the Y Button to fly." Then I woke up.
#12
Quote by roarinflames
it seems they are built the same way
so tough shit for me i guess

however
as far as the el34/6l6 thing
i play mostly metal and from what i understand, the 6l6 is better for that type of sound

Splawns, JCM 800's, and the better of the JCM 900's run on EL34's iirc.

You can't just pull one and put in the other without changing some resistors/capacitors, I think. You're better off just running EL34's, or KT88's.
#13
What tubes were they? JJ's? JJ tubes actually use a lower quality/size pin to seat into the tube socket. There's been many problems where it's seemed like a bad tube has being used in the amp and the tubes blown. But inspecting the tubes indicate that it wasn't a bad tube but a Badly seated tube. Meaning it wasn't sitting right in the socket, due to the smaller pins on the JJ's.

Never the less, if your friend saw sparks, return the amp. It may be something other than the tubes causing the problem.
Signatures are overrated.
#14
I take it was like this...


At a minimum you need to replace that tube and it's corrosponding tube, for instance, you have tubes, 1 2 3 4. if #1 goes bad, replace it and #4, if 2 goes bad, replace 2 and 3. That being said, that is a bare minimum, chances are you need new tubes all around. New pre's wouldn't be a bad idea either, just because you don't know how old they are. Ask the seller for like a $150 refund, or an amp return.
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#15
Quote by Moe.
What tubes were they? JJ's? JJ tubes actually use a lower quality/size pin to seat into the tube socket. There's been many problems where it's seemed like a bad tube has being used in the amp and the tubes blown. But inspecting the tubes indicate that it wasn't a bad tube but a Badly seated tube. Meaning it wasn't sitting right in the socket, due to the smaller pins on the JJ's.

Never the less, if your friend saw sparks, return the amp. It may be something other than the tubes causing the problem.

ruby tubes
possible that it was badly seated
although judging from the sparks
it could have been faulty wiring
it will be going back this week
just worried about it happening again

and also
do you think i should have the new one inspected by a technician once i recieve it to make sure it will do fine
Glimsom wrote:
I fell several hundred feet, and hit the ground, and then Batman appeared. He said "You gotta press the Y Button to fly." Then I woke up.
#16
Quote by MESAexplorer
I take it was like this...


At a minimum you need to replace that tube and it's corrosponding tube, for instance, you have tubes, 1 2 3 4. if #1 goes bad, replace it and #4, if 2 goes bad, replace 2 and 3. That being said, that is a bare minimum, chances are you need new tubes all around. New pre's wouldn't be a bad idea either, just because you don't know how old they are. Ask the seller for like a $150 refund, or an amp return.


WAY brighter than that
it literally scared the fu.ck outta me

but yes
thats the general idea of what it first looked like when the volume dimmed
Glimsom wrote:
I fell several hundred feet, and hit the ground, and then Batman appeared. He said "You gotta press the Y Button to fly." Then I woke up.
#17
Maybe it was just the bias. If the tube socket was dirty, and the bias jumped from that, maybe that's what blew the tube/amp.
Signatures are overrated.
#18
Quote by Moe.
Maybe it was just the bias. If the tube socket was dirty, and the bias jumped from that, maybe that's what blew the tube/amp.

not sure to be honest

but your input has been really helpful
is there any way that i can check the bias myself (my stepdad is an electrician, if that helps)
Glimsom wrote:
I fell several hundred feet, and hit the ground, and then Batman appeared. He said "You gotta press the Y Button to fly." Then I woke up.
#19
Quote by roarinflames
not sure to be honest

but your input has been really helpful
is there any way that i can check the bias myself (my stepdad is an electrician, if that helps)



I wouldn't bother. It'd require you to take the amp apart, bleed the caps, check the bias (which wont work since the tubes blown) and everything.

Just send it back.
Signatures are overrated.
#20
Quote by Moe.
I wouldn't bother. It'd require you to take the amp apart, bleed the caps, check the bias (which wont work since the tubes blown) and everything.

Just send it back.

i was actually talking about the new one

how much would it run me on average to have it professionally done
Glimsom wrote:
I fell several hundred feet, and hit the ground, and then Batman appeared. He said "You gotta press the Y Button to fly." Then I woke up.
#21
Quote by roarinflames
i was actually talking about the new one

how much would it run me on average to have it professionally done


Not sure. Different prices for different techs.
Signatures are overrated.
#23
Same thing happened to me 1 day after buying the crate v-50, if you're a teen I suggest you going back to the store with your parents (they take you more serious when you're with adults) and demand either a refund, or a new head.

Worked for me when I went with my parents...but when I went by myself they just said "sorry you have to deal with Crate, not us"
#24
Quote by Swap-Meet
Same thing happened to me 1 day after buying the crate v-50, if you're a teen I suggest you going back to the store with your parents (they take you more serious when you're with adults) and demand either a refund, or a new head.

Worked for me when I went with my parents...but when I went by myself they just said "sorry you have to deal with Crate, not us"

im about 20 now
but i own another crate head that ive never had a problem with

and other dude above (Forsaknazrael)
all the tubes were always a dim glow
just the one tube got really bright suddenly
Glimsom wrote:
I fell several hundred feet, and hit the ground, and then Batman appeared. He said "You gotta press the Y Button to fly." Then I woke up.
#25
Quote by roarinflames
it seems they are built the same way
so tough shit for me i guess

however
as far as the el34/6l6 thing
i play mostly metal and from what i understand, the 6l6 is better for that type of sound


If you want more lows, go KT77. Its the bastard love child of an EL34 and a 6L6 but much richer than a 6L6....just my thoughts, and it is a nearly direct swap for an EL34
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#26
The tubes themselves should not be glowing AT ALL.

The heater filaments should be glowing but if the plates (the gray part) are red, then you've got red plating (too much current on the plates).

Is the amps bias circuit fixed or cathode bias?

It could just be a bad tube, red plating, volume dropping, are pretty typical signs that a power tube is starting to go. But the first thing I'd do is switch it with another power tube that isn't red plating (said that the rest weren't) and see if the other tube is redplating on the same socket. If it is then you've got a bias problem, I've heard that parasitic oscillations can cause red plating as well and that all comes from poor lead dress in the build of the amp. Most likely though its a bad tube, once a tube starts red plating, its pretty much gone and will be that way until it eventually dies out. At the very least you'll need a new set of power tubes. But see if its the tube or the socket first.
Last edited by al112987 at Oct 6, 2008,
#27
Quote by roarinflames
and other dude above (Forsaknazrael)
all the tubes were always a dim glow
just the one tube got really bright suddenly

I understand that....and i'm saying that you shouldn't be looking at glow as an indicator of whether or not tubes work..
tubes can often glow blue, doesn't mean anything.
#28
Quote by forsaknazrael
I understand that....and i'm saying that you shouldn't be looking at glow as an indicator of whether or not tubes work..
tubes can often glow blue, doesn't mean anything.


Blue glow isn't bad, but bright orange glow is. It almost surely is red plating if glowing bright orange. In a normal healthy functioning amp, the heaters themselves don't get that bright.
#30
Sounds like a bad coupling capacitor creating a shorted load or messing up your bias. The pop your heard probably came from one of those caps. Have a guitar tech check it out...