#1
Fender Mustang. I believe it's a '64. Not entirely sure. In case anyone wants to do research for me, the neck plate says L94114, there's an offset contour body sticker on the headstock, and it has original Kluson Deluxe tuners. But that's not the point of this thread.

I'd like to restore this thing so that I can play it, but quite frankly it's not in great shape. The frets are just about flat, the fretboard looks dryer than the Sahara, and some dumbass senior who graduated refinished it in candy apple red, OVER the original blue.

So I'd like to clean up the metal, reset the neck, adjust the action, etc. but I don't want to do anything to reduce the value. Obviously it's not going to be a whole lot due to the refinish, but I just thought I'd get your guys' opinions on this.

Thanks a lot!

EDIT: Also, could I oil the rosewood fretboard? Or is that a big ?
#3
Quote by dylanfg
r the school lettin u do that


No. I stole it. And lit the school on fire. And slaughtered everyone trying to leave. And feasted on their entrails.

For god's sake, get out of my thread.

Quote by ze monsta
Lemon Oil the neck right away.


Lemon oil isn't the best choice for guitar fretboards. I know what I'm going to use, I just don't know if anything should be applied. Vintage instruments aren't really my forte.


EDIT: Because I might get reported...

I asked the band director; he said I could. Satisfied?
Last edited by Ultraturtle0 at Oct 10, 2008,
#4
Are you sure you know???
Don't be a tool.

Lemon Oil is for Rosewood and Ebony fretboards.

If that is a 64... I wouldn't go near it...Take it to a pro.
Ask the school to fund it, and they could make a killing.
Last edited by ze monsta at Oct 10, 2008,
#5
Sorry, I edited my post to be more polite.

I'm not being a tool. I've done research; from what I gather, most commercial brands contain solvents/other ingredients which aren't the best for the application. I understand there are people who use it, and that's fine. I just never have.

Apologies if I came off as an ass. Thanks for the help, but I'm really just more concerned with how in depth I should go with the restoration. I'd hate to completely kill a vintage guitar.


EDIT: To be honest, I doubt it has much resale value due to the refinish. But I'm fairly confident that I could do some basic adjustments without completely destroying it.
Last edited by Ultraturtle0 at Oct 10, 2008,
#6
Perhaps that wasn't the best way to start the thread eh?

Dunlop Fretboard 65 works great for me, it's been fine for everyone I know.
I also know people that use GHS Fast Fret, but personally I have had no experience with it.
#7
dude, pics?

Also, if I were you, I would try and buy it off the school for a minimal amount, then restore it for yourself, could be awesome.
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And that guy, who had that idea, one time


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#9
Quote by Boogie Man
dude, pics?

Also, if I were you, I would try and buy it off the school for a minimal amount, then restore it for yourself, could be awesome.

I was going to say that or maybe trade a "better" more playable guitar that's worth like $150.
#12
Quote by Invader Jim
Pics, god damnit.



This. If I were you, I'd do a refret and sand back that red finish to the original blue.
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Quote by Anonden
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#13
Pics will be up tomorrow.

Sanding the finish off ain't a bad idea, and this thing hasn't seen the light of day in years, so I doubt the band teacher would mind. I'm good friends with the entire music department. As far as the metal goes, it isn't really rusting persay, but it has a bunch of small bumps. It's hard to describe, but pictures may help.

So it's pretty much settled that I can in no way harm this by oiling the fretboard? I do it every time I restring guitars, but I just want to be absolutely sure with this.

Thanks for the responses guys!
#15
Come on dude, PICS
Supreme Commander Of The Lolcats Of the UG Army

And that guy, who had that idea, one time


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#17
Quote by Invader Jim
My troll senses are tingling.

No, burning.

Anyway, TS, refinishing it in a era-correct color will actually IMPROVE the value.



Are you reffering to me..........

if so, **** you
Supreme Commander Of The Lolcats Of the UG Army

And that guy, who had that idea, one time


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#19
Quote by Invader Jim
I was talking about TS, man.



Oh, my apologies
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And that guy, who had that idea, one time


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#21
The way I see it, Vicodin just makes everything more interesting.
Quote by asfastasdark
+1. This man knows his ****.


Walker Rose.
#22
All it does to me is piss me off at nothing. Now I'm on Keflex and Darvocet (anti-biotic and pain-killer respectively). They don't make you high or anything, but at least they work as advertised.


So where'd TS go?
#23
ARE YOU DR. HOUSE!?

lulz.

yeah, lemon oil that mofo.

then repaint it, put some new 'vintage-styled' tuners on it and you're good to go.
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#25
seriously ts, if you've been ****ing with us I will hunt you down and shove a redhot poker up your ass
Supreme Commander Of The Lolcats Of the UG Army

And that guy, who had that idea, one time


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#26
How are you wanting to restore this instument? Meaning, do you want to restore it for playability or for value?

If for value, for the love of god do not break the solder joints on the electronics for any reason unless you absolutely have to replace a broken pot. That's a BIG no-no. Also don't do a refret or cleaning the hardware to where it takes off any rust/corrosion. That pitting you're talking about is called oxidation. Anyways all of those factors prove to a collector that the instrument is in fact an original and are worth way more with their patina left in tact.

Also take pictures during anything that you do to it. I would run any of the numbers on the guitar to find out as much info as you can about it. If you're really wanting to refinish it, have a professional do it to the orginal color. It would be worth the most that way. Oh and do not refinish the neck. Vintage Fender finishes tend to check really bad (The small cracks throughout the finish) and it's worth more with these in it because it proves that it is the orginal finish.
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#27
tell them you want it to fix it up and keep, and you'll replace it with a cheap guitar, lol
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#28
lemon oil sucks, the only reason UG bones about it is because you can get it ANYWHERE. use boiled linseed oil, or mineral oil if you can find it. get 0000 steel wool as well to clean up the frets/fingerass on the fingerboard. go up and down with the grain, not side to side. if the metal is chrome, remove it from the guitar, spray it with wd-40, polish it. if its still got shit on it, lightly buff it with 0000 steel wool.

the linseed oil lasts about 10X as long as far as keeping the board moist, and it penetrates deeper, and brings more shit to the surface, you whipe it on with a paper towell, do your set up, after about 10-15 minutes whipe the linseed oil off. after buffing the fretboard with steel wool ofcourse.

dont remove anything from the guitar, if you do, keep it in a plastic bag. this old of a guitar you need to keep everything original so you can still sell it for a few grand down the road.
#31
Don't use lemon oil, I remember a whole thread on here about not using it because it's only a temporary fix that will actually ruin the fret board over time. I remember some luthier ( at least I think he was) said that you should use a small bit of synthetic oil that they use on fretboards the first time they finish them.
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