#1
So i thought it would be cool to make a pedal that would give the effects of pushing and on off switch or button on a guitar rapidly... someone made a post about the 555 timer IC and i thought that this might work pretty well. And the chip works from 5 to 15 volts, so a 9volt power supply should work perfectly.

anyways after a bit of research i found this helpful site
http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/gadgets/555/555.html

and there is a little schematic for a metronome... which is really the same kind of principle that im looking for. A continous on/off for a signal



but the only thing though is that I guess you would need some way to input the signal. Anyone got any ideas? Maybe even be as simple as just connecting your input signal to pin one? And maybe changing the speed pot to 100k for a faster oscillation?
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#2
I personally can't understand the engineer-talk but I can provide you with a visual example.

Go online and look up Buckethead's guitar. It's a white Custom Gibson Les Paul, and it's got one of those on-off switches. He uses it pretty frequently in solos and stuff, so you could probably get a good idea of how he works it and what it looks like and stuff.

Although, you're talking about making a pedal, rather than a switch for the actual guitar, so it may not be that informative.

Just a little bit of good input, sorry I can't help you any further.
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#3
I'm not sure on the pin-out of the 555 timer etc, but it may work with just putting the input/output section in place of the speaker in the diagram.
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#4
if you rli want what is basically an auto kill-switxch
replace the loudspeaker with a relay and put relay where a killswitch would go...lookk at ultimate kill switch thread quite a good idea anyway please kewep us updated on progress

EDIT: literally don't mwess with the pins, your guitars signal will bebuggered by the chip, just out a relay where speaker is, put the gate, or whatever turns on the relay on pin 3 (don't know rli if yu need the capacitor, experiment?) then attach one side of relay to one of thwe wires connecting your guitar to the output jack, and the other wire to the other wire connecting your guitar to the output jack, thus whenever the relay is closed (either when the 555 is on or off) the signal will be shorted.

OH AND I WROTE OUT INSTEAD OF PUT sorry for that glaring mistake ahahaha
Last edited by wooftang999 at Oct 14, 2008,
#5
Quote by wooftang999
if you rli want what is basically an auto kill-switxch
replace the loudspeaker with a relay and put relay where a killswitch would go...lookk at ultimate kill switch thread quite a good idea anyway please kewep us updated on progress

EDIT: literally don't mwess with the pins, your guitars signal will bebuggered by the chip, just out a relay where speaker is, put the gate, or whatever turns on the relay on pin 3 (don't know rli if yu need the capacitor, experiment?) then attach one side of relay to one of thwe wires connecting your guitar to the output jack, and the other wire to the other wire connecting your guitar to the output jack, thus whenever the relay is closed (either when the 555 is on or off) the signal will be shorted.


Sorry, but do you really have any idea what you're on about in this case?

That is a terrible explanation of anything, and relay's are not for doing what you're suggesting. You may be able to make some sort of transistor based circuit to do it, but you'd have much more control over the auto-switching speed with an IC based circuit.
My Gear
Original JCM800
Fender Blues
ADA MP1 Rack

1952 RI Tele
Fender Floyd Fat Strat
Dean Razorback V255
Dean ML79F
Fender Strat, scalloped
Fender Floyd Strat
Ibanez RG550 - 1987 DY, 1990 DY, 2002 BK
Kramer Paul Dean
Danelectro DC59
#6
Quote by mck_776
Sorry, but do you really have any idea what you're on about in this case?

That is a terrible explanation of anything, and relay's are not for doing what you're suggesting. You may be able to make some sort of transistor based circuit to do it, but you'd have much more control over the auto-switching speed with an IC based circuit.


and how would anyone go about putting their input/output where the speaker is...

also that is what a relay does... it'd replace the SPST in a killswitch

i did think of saying transistor but relays are probabaly simpler for someone with no electronic knowledge to understand and although relays will wear out they do not blow up or need .7V on the base. Also he would need a relay OR transistor anyway because a killswitch relies on switching and how would a 555 alone switch the signal on and off. and i can't see how tyou were saying my killswitch method makes no sense because i also told him to go to the ULTIMATE killswitch thread (kinda techniacally where this should be) and that is the simplest way of doing it for all guitars not just strat style etc.

And maybe a special IC would have more control, but all it needs is a switch and i was working with the diagram given cos i cba to draw another one

i also have now corrected a typo
Last edited by wooftang999 at Oct 14, 2008,
#7
Quote by mck_776
Sorry, but do you really have any idea what you're on about in this case?

That is a terrible explanation of anything, and relay's are not for doing what you're suggesting. You may be able to make some sort of transistor based circuit to do it, but you'd have much more control over the auto-switching speed with an IC based circuit.


solid state relays are nothing more than transistor based non-pneumatic relays. They would work just fine for something like this.

An spst solid state relay would work. Connect the trigger of the relay to where the speaker is, and connect a 1n4148 diode between the two trigger spots of the relay. I can draw this up later if you want.
#8
yeah a killswitch is very simple... but this will basically do the on off repeatedly for me... So this is really nothing like the wiring in a guitar killswitch. those are ridiculously simple. I just dont think that thread could help me out very much.

but i cant just replace my input where the speaker is. the speaker is an output device. If i put a signal there its just gonna run to ground...

and thanks for your input...
but woofgang you first post was extremely hard for me to follow... I just couldnt understand the english of it. Not trying to be rude. But i do appreciate the help!

I dont understand where it is getting the signal of the sound to output to the speaker with the interval ticks for the metronome. If i can figure that out then it should be pretty simple to replace that sound signal with the guitar signal right?

would is be posible to just send the signal to pins two and 6? or maybe just 2?

*EDIT* i think i understand this now. The input would be connected to pins two and 6. The capacitors get charged and the two of them, i think is what causes it to get bursts to turn the circuit on and off. The only trick is going to be the values of the capacitor and the pot to give me the proper on/off speed
-------------------------------
Faded Gibson SG Special - Black ice mod
Seymour Duncan SH-5 in bridge
B-52 AT 112
Ted Weber Mass100 attenuator
EHX Small Clone
EHX Metal Muff
DIY Modded tubescreamer
Dunlop 535Q Wah
Wax Potting tutorial
Last edited by ICANSEEYOU7687 at Oct 14, 2008,
#9
Quote by ICANSEEYOU7687
yeah a killswitch is very simple... but this will basically do the on off repeatedly for me... So this is really nothing like the wiring in a guitar killswitch. those are ridiculously simple. I just dont think that thread could help me out very much.

but i cant just replace my input where the speaker is. the speaker is an output device. If i put a signal there its just gonna run to ground...

and thanks for your input...
but woofgang you first post was extremely hard for me to follow... I just couldnt understand the english of it. Not trying to be rude. But i do appreciate the help!

I dont understand where it is getting the signal of the sound to output to the speaker with the interval ticks for the metronome. If i can figure that out then it should be pretty simple to replace that sound signal with the guitar signal right?

would is be posible to just send the signal to pins two and 6? or maybe just 2?

*EDIT* i think i understand this now. The input would be connected to pins two and 6. The capacitors get charged and the two of them, i think is what causes it to get bursts to turn the circuit on and off. The only trick is going to be the values of the capacitor and the pot to give me the proper on/off speed


The easiest thing to do would be to wire the input and output to a spst relay and then connect the actual relay trigger where the speaker is. The clicking of a metronome happens because it releases a charge, that charge would not be your guitar signal though.
#10
No, you guys don't understand. A killswitch connects signal to ground when pressed. Since the output goes high and low on pin 3. Low means low as in low voltage. Low voltage as in 0 volts. 0 volts as in G R O U N D! What you need to do is wire everything normal except have a wire going from the guitar's hot to pin 3. In a pedal that would mean one wire straight from input to output, and have a wire jumping off into pin 3. And you'll want to place this after any distortions you may be using to eliminate the pop. That is, by the way, one of the main problems of these type pedals. Don't play your guitar for a minute, and all you hear is "pop-pop-pop-pop-pop." Annoying. What we would need to do is cut the connection to pin 3 with some circuit when the input voltage falls under a certain amount, which would be adjustable with a trimmer because "certain amount" of low volume would be debatable of course. And you'll want to put a capacitor before the output jack to stop DC from passing through.
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#11
ugh i need to get a breadboard...

but one of the pots on my guitar kinda broke, i need to replace it, along with all the electronics in my old ibanez rg. So i think i will get the parts and kinda play around with it. Too bad smallbear doesnt have the 555 chip...

but assuming i get this going ill definately let yall know if it works out. Meanwhile if anyone else has any other opinions or suggestions, lemme know, that would be great

^
asfastasdark

i just reread your post, and that makes a lot of since, if the output does go to ground, that sounds like it would completly work. I would just need to figure out what values to use for the resistor and cap to get the appropriate time delays
-------------------------------
Faded Gibson SG Special - Black ice mod
Seymour Duncan SH-5 in bridge
B-52 AT 112
Ted Weber Mass100 attenuator
EHX Small Clone
EHX Metal Muff
DIY Modded tubescreamer
Dunlop 535Q Wah
Wax Potting tutorial
Last edited by ICANSEEYOU7687 at Oct 14, 2008,
#12
quick question. I need a few parts from smallbear. I really like ordering with them. but i dont wanna have to buy this IC from somewhere like digikey or mouser because shipping will suck...

but radioshack has
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062595&cp=&sr=1&kw=555&origkw=555&parentPage=search

which from what I can tell should work just as well. But i wanted to get everyone's input first. As always thanks!
-------------------------------
Faded Gibson SG Special - Black ice mod
Seymour Duncan SH-5 in bridge
B-52 AT 112
Ted Weber Mass100 attenuator
EHX Small Clone
EHX Metal Muff
DIY Modded tubescreamer
Dunlop 535Q Wah
Wax Potting tutorial
#14
Quote by ICANSEEYOU7687
quick question. I need a few parts from smallbear. I really like ordering with them. but i dont wanna have to buy this IC from somewhere like digikey or mouser because shipping will suck...

but radioshack has
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062595&cp=&sr=1&kw=555&origkw=555&parentPage=search

which from what I can tell should work just as well. But i wanted to get everyone's input first. As always thanks!


that IC will work fine.
#15
Wait, is the idea here to make a self-oscillating on/off pedal?

That sounds cool as hell! The way I'm picturing this is a pedal with an on/off switch and a knob to determine the signal-cut speed (like, how many "offs" per min). May I also recommend:

1) A tap switch that allows you to control the signal cut using your foot
2) A footswitchable killswitch.
3) True bypass

This could be made pretty simple to use with a good layout design (something like Kill - Auto - Manual - Bypass, with bright reflective lettering, would be damn easy to use on a stage tho it'd make the pedal kinda big).

Think of the cool ass riffs you could write using big distorted chords and delay with this thing! I'm excited about this one.
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