#1
Hey
My car doesnt start properly anymore, and I have to keep bump starting it.
I'm pretty certain its a problem with the battery, otherwise the car wouldnt start, right? I thought my CD player was maybe sucking the life out of it, so i took it out completely, but still, no dice. I've charged the battery, but it was already on half power before I charged it.
Is the battery knackered? Or is there something else I'm missing?
Thanks
#2
Starter?
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#3
Quote by IlikeTheSKA
Starter?


Would the car still start if that was broken? I don't know much about cars sorry
#4
Define "bump" starting
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#5
Alternator, its the thing that charges the battery while the engine runs, you probably need a new one. By "bump" he means connecting another battery to provide enough charge in the cars battery to make the engine tick over

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#6
For a while, but eventually it wouldn't start at all.

That's when you hit it with a hammer and drive to the parts store.
My style is impetuous.
My defense is impregnable, and I'm just ferocious.
I want your heart.
I want to eat your children.

-Mike Tyson
#7
Grrr, I have the same problem, my damn jeep takes forever to start sometimes, especially when it's wet and cold out.

My dad thinks it idles at too low of an RPM or something, that could be it possibly.
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#8
Quote by GNiCk89
Define "bump" starting


I had people pushing while i put it in second gear, then revved to get it started
#9
Quote by Armanno
Grrr, I have the same problem, my damn jeep takes forever to start sometimes, especially when it's wet and cold out.

My dad thinks it idles at too low of an RPM or something, that could be it possibly.


Does your "damn jeep" have a custom exhaust system on it? because if its not getting any pressure the engine will die

Gear:
Ibanez JPM P100A
Schecter C7 Loomis
Ibanez Rg1570
Agile Intrepid 828 Pro Dual
Schecter Omen FR Extreme
Ibanez RG550 (Fernandez Sustainer)
Laney World Series 120-TR
POD X3 Live
#10
If it wont start when you turn the key and all you hear is a faint click, its your starter. Your car will bump start with a completly broken starter. Buy a new starter (or get your old one rewound), and put it in, then you're good to go.


Quote by GNiCk89
Define "bump" starting


Bumb starting is when you roll down a hill in 2nd gear and once your going fast enough you drop the clutch and give it some gas and your car will start.
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#11
Quote by time_for_food
I had people pushing while i put it in second gear, then revved to get it started

That is a push or roll start mate...

Gear:
Ibanez JPM P100A
Schecter C7 Loomis
Ibanez Rg1570
Agile Intrepid 828 Pro Dual
Schecter Omen FR Extreme
Ibanez RG550 (Fernandez Sustainer)
Laney World Series 120-TR
POD X3 Live
#12
Quote by Fender420
If it wont start when you turn the key and all you hear is a faint click, its your starter. Your car will bump start with a completly broken starter. Buy a new starter (or get your old one rewound), and put it in, then you're good to go.


First time i turn it, theres a click. The second time i try, i can hear the engine, but each turn gets further and further apart.
#14
Quote by time_for_food
First time i turn it, theres a click. The second time i try, i can hear the engine, but each turn gets further and further apart.

Try a fresh, or battery you know is fully charged, perhaps borrow one from your friends cars? If it starts, its probably your battery or alternator, if it clicks its probably your starter. Just curious what sort of car have you got?

Gear:
Ibanez JPM P100A
Schecter C7 Loomis
Ibanez Rg1570
Agile Intrepid 828 Pro Dual
Schecter Omen FR Extreme
Ibanez RG550 (Fernandez Sustainer)
Laney World Series 120-TR
POD X3 Live
#16
Quote by blue_bogan
Try a fresh, or battery you know is fully charged, perhaps borrow one from your friends cars? If it starts, its probably your battery or alternator, if it clicks its probably your starter. Just curious what sort of car have you got?


A '99 skoda
I'll get another battery put on tomorrow to see how it is
Thanks guys
Last edited by time_for_food at Oct 14, 2008,
#17
i have problems with my camaro, it used to be my older brother's car but while he was driving it he slammed on the brakes, and the engine shut down and wouldn't start unless we used starter fluid. we have no idea what the problem is.
#18
Depending on where you are it could be the weather. It's -14 below here, and last night I could not get my car started.
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#20
Yea its your alternator man, but Id take the car to autozone and lettem hook it up to the computer and make sure.
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#21
i doubt it is your altenator

Quote by time_for_food
First time i turn it, theres a click. The second time i try, i can hear the engine, but each turn gets further and further apart.



i am a mechanic so i will help you here

the clicking is the starter solenoid. it means you are not getting enouph current to the starter. what is happening is that you are putting current to the starter the solenoid it makes a conection to the feild windings, comutator and armeture and does not have enouph current to power it so it drops the current and the solenoid returns and causes a clicking sound.

your car needs at least 400rpm for the computer to register #1 cylinder and start fueling and igniting so it will not start if it is a slow crank either

with the symptoms you have described i would say it could be 1 of 3 things

1) a weak battery it would not have enouph power to start the car but the altenator will put the voltage higher and keep the car running fine durring operation

2) you have a resistance in the starter cuircuit that is dropping voltage and thus making the current to the starter lower and cranking slow and draining the battery

3) high resistance in the starter itself.

all 3 will create slow roling over and and the clicking

is it was your altenator your battery would keep losing voltage while driving an your car would eventually die you would probably only have about an hour to an hour and a half of driving on reserve voltage and your car's computer would start shutting off luxury's as it loose's more power

as you didn't say this was a symptom i doubt it is you altenator.

what you need to do is check starter amperage draw should be around 150-300 amps depending on the engine

then voltage drop on the power side of your starter cuircuit.

then check voltage drop on the ground side of the circuit.

they say you can have about .5V drop per conection but if you have 5 connections with .5 drop you need to fix that. that is to much voltage being lost.


i for got the most important of all you need to load test the battery to see if ti is ok
song stuck in my head today


Last edited by lbc_sublime at Jan 17, 2009,
#22
Quote by blue_bogan
By "bump" he means connecting another battery to provide enough charge in the cars battery to make the engine tick over


Nope that's a "jump" start

But yeah, what the guy who wrote loads said
#23
Quote by REMfan1
Nope that's a "jump" start

But yeah, what the guy who wrote loads said


+1 a bump start is when you put the vehicle in 2nd gear or reverse with the clutch pushed and the ignition in run. push the car the down the road and then let the clutch out then imidietly push back in and your car should be started
song stuck in my head today


#24
to check if ur alternator is fine is simple,
start the engine and flick on ur head lights,
open bonnet, and disconnect the battery,
if the engine continues running and lights stay on the alternator is fine, if it cuts out you need a new alternator
#25
I had the same problem it turned out to be my starter so I would check that first, I spent $70 on a battery only to find out that my starter had gone out.
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#26
Quote by pbman
to check if ur alternator is fine is simple,
start the engine and flick on ur head lights,
open bonnet, and disconnect the battery,
if the engine continues running and lights stay on the alternator is fine, if it cuts out you need a new alternator



the altenator charges the battery it doesn't run the car so if you disconect the battery no matter if the altenator works or not the car will shut off
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#27
Quote by lbc_sublime
the altenator charges the battery it doesn't run the car so if you disconect the battery no matter if the altenator works or not the car will shut off


this or you will get a very bad shock. i've had so many altonator problems its not even funny, i don't think its the altonator, it does depend on what kind of car you have, like the guy who said he's a mechanic, it could be the computer, take it into a shop and have them look at it, but be warned, they will rip you off on repaires. don't be a pidgon like charlie hoge.
#28
Quote by lbc_sublime
the altenator charges the battery it doesn't run the car so if you disconect the battery no matter if the altenator works or not the car will shut off

no it does not shut off
yes the alernator charges the batt, but it also provides electricity for running equip like sparks and lights

it will keep runnin, i know as i have tried it, if ur battery is fcked and u need to replace it, keep the engine running while you remove and replace and you wont loose all ur codes like the one for the radio
#29
Quote by pbman
no it does not shut off
yes the alernator charges the batt, but it also provides electricity for running equip like sparks and lights

it will keep runnin, i know as i have tried it, if ur battery is fcked and u need to replace it, keep the engine running while you remove and replace and you wont loose all ur codes like the one for the radio



no you are wrong

if you disconnect the positive of the battery the altenator current will not be getting to the vehicle . also when you do this there will be no current supplied to the rotor which produced the magnetic field for the induction to take place in the stator.

if you disconnect the ground the altenator rotor will have no ground and will once again will not induce into the stator.

when you disconect the battery on either side it stops current flow to the rotor and since the rotror controls current and induces it into the stator it will not work at all, what so ever


you do not know what you are talking about

EDIT: i would also cal you a liar you have not tried that no battery= no current
song stuck in my head today


#30
Quote by lbc_sublime
no you are wrong

if you disconnect the positive of the battery the altenator current will not be getting to the vehicle . also when you do this there will be no current supplied to the rotor which produced the magnetic field for the induction to take place in the stator.

if you disconnect the ground the altenator rotor will have no ground and will once again will not induce into the stator.

when you disconect the battery on either side it stops current flow to the rotor and since the rotror controls current and induces it into the stator it will not work at all, what so ever


you do not know what you are talking about

EDIT: i would also cal you a liar you have not tried that no battery= no current



for someone who is a mechanic you really should know this,
as long as you dont cause a short after disconnecting it will will keep goin,
a batt is required at start up as a starter motor require a large current as it has to turn over what is a heavy motor
.

my batt died whil i was out, RAC come out jump start it, disconnected batt and it keeps goin, i ended up needin the whole batt box removed as the nut holding the batt in had seized in place.
new batt in and it still goin.

sparks require only a small current to ignite the gas which is turning over the engine

even a few simple google searches show i am right, if you dont believe me go and try it out

heres just two links backing me up(i know internet links arent the best proof but hell)
one

two
#31
Quote by pbman
for someone who is a mechanic you really should know this,
as long as you dont cause a short after disconnecting it will will keep goin,
a batt is required at start up as a starter motor require a large current as it has to turn over what is a heavy motor
.

my batt died whil i was out, RAC come out jump start it, disconnected batt and it keeps goin, i ended up needin the whole batt box removed as the nut holding the batt in had seized in place.
new batt in and it still goin.

sparks require only a small current to ignite the gas which is turning over the engine

even a few simple google searches show i am right, if you dont believe me go and try it out

heres just two links backing me up(i know internet links arent the best proof but hell)
one

two


i didn't even read your links but as soon as i said all that i knew i had put my foot in my mouth. lol

i believe it is specifically if your altenator has a diode trio. some are not equiped with this but with out it it cannot run with out the battery as the rotor has no current.

the diode trio takes current from the 6 diode rectifier bridge and supplies it to the field or rotor but like i said not all cars have a diode trio in them.

it works so if you loose power to the altenator feild windings durring operation you do not loose the charging cuircuit

the only problem with disconecting the battery i believe is you loose the voltage sensing line of the regulator and can start putting out to much current.
song stuck in my head today


#32
nah it's an '88 camaro they would have to take each part and test it indiidually, already talked to my brother about that, he works at a chevy dealership so he's gonna use his comptow(employees get free towing) to get it into the shop and they'll figure out the problem with no crap involved and for free