#1
My epiphone g-400 has a tailpiece and a bridge. when i adjusted the action, i unscrewed the tailpiece a little(instead of bridge). Does it matter? Should I screw it back in a little bit? If i have to, do I screw it all the way?
Also, i think my guitar had 10s(string) on it, but i changed it to 9.. im gonna change it to 10 again, but i think my neck became straight.... is it ok? would it turn back normal if i put on 10s?
Last edited by hatooku at Oct 17, 2008,
#2
if it didn't effect the action or cause string buzz or something, it should be fine
Epiphone G-400
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#4
You're fine. Also, .009's are too light for a short scale. .010's are about as light as you should go.
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#5
Quote by hatooku
My epiphone g-400 has a tailpiece and a bridge. when i adjusted the action, i unscrewed the tailpiece a little(instead of bridge). Does it matter? Should I screw it back in a little bit? If i have to, do I screw it all the way?
the height of the tailstop does NOT affect the action. just the angle of the strings past the end of the bridge. usually all the way down is not a problem, unless it's a very short distance between bridge and tailstop.


Quote by hatooku
Also, i think my guitar had 10s(string) on it, but i changed it to 9.. im gonna change it to 10 again, but i think my neck became straight.... is it ok? would it turn back normal if i put on 10s?
Using a lighter gauge string set will apply less forward torque on the neck. if you don't readjust the truss rod, this lower tension will allow the trussrod tension to remove all the relief and make the neck straight, or even bow it backward slightly.

Going back to the original gauge strings will cause the neck to return slowly to the original relief. it might take a day or two for it to settle all the way in.


Quote by oneblackened
You're fine. Also, .009's are too light for a short scale. .010's are about as light as you should go.
it's a matter of personal taste. i've seen people use 8s on a 'Paul. they like it bendy. I know others who will insist you're a pussy and giving away tone if you use anything less than 13s.

use whatever suits you, in terms of the balance of ease of fretting and bends -vs- tone.

readjust action, relief, and intonation as necessary.

...
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#6
thx... so all i need to adjust is the intonation and the action after i switch right? not the truss rod... when i adjust the bridge, do i use a screwdriver to turn the screw thing or use my hands to turn the thumbscrew? becus the thumbscrew won't move with my hand.
#7
Quote by hatooku
thx... so all i need to adjust is the intonation and the action after i switch right? not the truss rod...
if you go back to the original gauge strings the relief in the neck should return to normal in a day or so. check it by laying a straightedge down the length of the fretboard, starting at the first fret. the ends will make contact, but there will be a small gap between the straightedge and the frets midway down the board, say around the 8th fret or so.

Quote by hatooku
... when i adjust the bridge, do i use a screwdriver to turn the screw thing or use my hands to turn the thumbscrew? becus the thumbscrew won't move with my hand.
thumbscrews. loosen the strings to remove the tension. the thumbscrews will turn easily.
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